6 weeks flowering, is this ok?

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Haydar1984

Haydar1984

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Today I completed 6 weeks of flowering , the leaves started yellowing and dying since 2 weeks and nothing seems to stop it ,I added N to fertilizer but it doesn't seem to stop the yellowing , I might have a light burn cause the affected leaves are mostly in the middle , what do you think?
6 weeks flowering is this ok
6 weeks flowering is this ok 2
6 weeks flowering is this ok 3
 
mancorn

mancorn

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Get rid of all those dead leaves. Not doing anything for your plants at this point and certainly cutting down on the airflow. Are you letting your dirt dry out between waters?
 
Haydar1984

Haydar1984

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Get rid of all those dead leaves. Not doing anything for your plants at this point and certainly cutting down on the airflow. Are you letting your dirt dry out between waters?
Yes I let the dirt dry between waters, I'm providing strong airflow with a 14 inch fan all the time, Will try to cut all the yellow leaves today.
 
Haydar1984

Haydar1984

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Yea it does look real thick probably not getting enough airflow.
It was thicker when it was in veg and everything was perfect , I'm providing strong airflow with 14 inch fan , its a single plant in the room airflow is quiet good I think
 
Smoking Gun

Smoking Gun

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Your pH should be at least 6.5, 6.0 is too low for soil. So that may be it.

To me it looks like nutrient burn. How often are you feeding your plant? What nutrients are you using? What is the pH of the nutrients you are applying?

It could also be a potassium lock-out, which may actually be caused by high levels of nitrogen. So adding more nitrogen could be simply exacerbating the issue rather than correcting it.
 
Haydar1984

Haydar1984

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Your pH should be at least 6.5, 6.0 is too low for soil. So that may be it.

To me it looks like nutrient burn. How often are you feeding your plant? What nutrients are you using? What is the pH of the nutrients you are applying?

It could also be a potassium lock-out, which may actually be caused by high levels of nitrogen. So adding more nitrogen could be simply exacerbating the issue rather than correcting it.
I've had nutrient burn before, it looked different , it starts at the outside tips of the leaves , what I'm having here is different , I will try to increase the pH a little if it's possible as we are locked in the house due to flu and I don't know how to increase it or if I have something at home to do that.

Thanks for the info
 
Formallyhap

Formallyhap

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If you have more of that soil top dress with it and water it in, if you have no lime available to top dress with.
It's ph problems, your soil ran out of buffering capacity.
 
Formallyhap

Formallyhap

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What's your ph from the faucet?

Most "soil" is peat based and peat has a ph around 4-4.5 so they naturally drift down over time, if you're watering to run off when you water chances are it's not nute overload causing the ph issue but just the natural drift of peat.
 
MIGrampaUSA

MIGrampaUSA

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I've had nutrient burn before, it looked different , it starts at the outside tips of the leaves , what I'm having here is different , I will try to increase the pH a little if it's possible as we are locked in the house due to flu and I don't know how to increase it or if I have something at home to do that.

Thanks for the info

If you have it, Dolomite Lime will work.

Sprinkle a bit of dolomite lime on top of your soil. As you water, it will leach into the soil. You can also use it directly in your water but I don't remember how much per gallon off the top of my head. (Night time in the grow area, bag of lime is in there)

As for soil pH. My target is always 6.5 and I use dolomite lime to reach that. I do this every time I prepare my soil mix.
 
Haydar1984

Haydar1984

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What's your ph from the faucet?

Most "soil" is peat based and peat has a ph around 4-4.5 so they naturally drift down over time, if you're watering to run off when you water chances are it's not nute overload causing the ph issue but just the natural drift of peat.
My soil is a mixture of homemade compost, peat moss and garden soil , I had higher pH 2 months ago , do you think I should flush with tap water cause our tap water pH is 8 or more and has around 500 tds?
 
Formallyhap

Formallyhap

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Are you phing the water before you water with it? Like, have you been watering with ph 8 water?
 
Haydar1984

Haydar1984

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If you have it, Dolomite Lime will work.

Sprinkle a bit of dolomite lime on top of your soil. As you water, it will leach into the soil. You can also use it directly in your water but I don't remember how much per gallon off the top of my head. (Night time in the grow area, bag of lime is in there)

As for soil pH. My target is always 6.5 and I use dolomite lime to reach that. I do this every time I prepare my soil mix.
I don't have lime unfortunately , my tap water pH is 8 or a little more with high tds around 500 , do you think I should flush with it to get pH back to its normal level?
 
MIGrampaUSA

MIGrampaUSA

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I don't have lime unfortunately , my tap water pH is 8 or a little more with high tds around 500 , do you think I should flush with it to get pH back to its normal level?

Your total dissolved solids (TDS) is on the high side. Is this well water? If so, have you had it tested to see what it contains? With a pH of roughly 8.0 and a TDS that high, it likely has a lot of calcium already in it. Are you using cal-mag?
 
Formallyhap

Formallyhap

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might be mag deficiency looking into it, it started in the middle and works out which would be consistent with your description

epson salt, mollasses are options, not sure what else would potentially already be in the house that would work
 
MIGrampaUSA

MIGrampaUSA

3,732
263
might be mag deficiency looking into it, it started in the middle and works out which would be consistent with your description

epson salt, mollasses are options, not sure what else would potentially already be in the house that would work

I'd be more inclined to investigate further before dumping either epson salt or mollasses into your mix. Do you know what your soil pH is currently.

I'm trying to find a chart to see what pH or other conditions would cause magnesium lock-out. Before we dump epson salts or molasses into it, lets be sure it's actually deficient.
 
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