6 weeks flowering, is this ok?

[mancorn]

I flushed with tap water for too long yet the run off water pH was 6 , I used sodium hydroxide to raise some water pH to 10 then watered the plant and the run off was closer to 7 than 6, I used 20-20-20 with complete added micro elements and kelp to make spray and sprayed the plant to give it a fast dose of all nutrients needed , will see what happens next

Don't forget a ph number represents a 10-fold change in the acidity/basicness of the water. So going from 6-7 is ten times the ph. So be real careful with trying a huge swing (like 10).

Your pee will increase your ph and add nitroge. It's the perfect shelter-in-place Ph-up. 1 pee per gallon.

 

[MIGrampaUSA]

Don't forget a ph number represents a 10-fold change in the acidity/basicness of the water. So going from 6-7 is ten times the ph. So be real careful with trying a huge swing (like 10).

Your pee will increase your ph and add nitroge. It's the perfect shelter-in-place Ph-up. 1 pee per gallon.

Let's hope there's no harm to the plants. A pH of 10 can burn the roots. I wish the dolomite lime was available for you right now. It's bufffered, making it harder to burn your plants. Also pH changes in soil take time to correct. When I dealt with my sour soil, my plants were still in solo cups. I made the adjustment to the soil on transplant. In my opinion, dolomite lime should be in your grower's tool kit.

 

[Haydar1984]

Yes baking soda will reduce ph. With such a high ppm in river water, the alkalinity (high buffer) is generally high, which makes it much hard to change the ph and the baking soda in turn increases alkalinity, digging yourself a big hole. I see Haydar is suggesting he's at 7 runoff, so wouldn't get to crazy with ph (since he's growing in soil).

OP said " I'm fertilizing with 600-700 ppm", which is pretty low. (And that's assuming your taking into account the 500ppm source, so is really at 1100-1200). What are the recommendation of the nutes you're using? Plants look pretty hungry to me.

Im fertilizing at 600-700 with RO water and after that I add kelp and humic acid , I didn't want to go high with fertilizing since I have to water almost 3 times a week due to hot weather so didn't want to burn the plant , the run off water was below 6 before flushing, but after flushing and using sodium hydroxide , it got to seven or a little less.
Thanks for the info.

 

[Haydar1984]

Let's hope there's no harm to the plants. A pH of 10 can burn the roots. I wish the dolomite lime was available for you right now. It's bufffered, making it harder to burn your plants. Also pH changes in soil take time to correct. When I dealt with my sour soil, my plants were still in solo cups. I made the adjustment to the soil on transplant. In my opinion, dolomite lime should be in your grower's tool kit.

I wish I had it too , I never thought the pH would go down cause the nature of the garden soil here is all alkaline in addition to hard water , I think the soil lost it's buffering capacity with time and addition of a lot of nutrients and humic acid

 

[mancorn]

I wish I had it too , I never thought the pH would go down cause the nature of the garden soil here is all alkaline in addition to hard water , I think the soil lost it's buffering capacity with time and addition of a lot of nutrients and humic acid

You can use oyster shell to increase the buffering of your soil. (A lot of fancy bagged soil has it for this purpose.) During normal times you can get at a feed store real cheap. It's not an instant fix, but worth adding to your soil in future grows.

 

[Hidd3nGr0w]

Thanks for that. I think that was what @Hidd3nGrOw was saying. The OP's situation is unique in the sense of the flu related shutdown. Baking soda was mentioned, but I am not sure of the correct answer to that. Can you help us out?

I was talking about P=Phosphorus as in NPK ratio, not Potassium, which is K. Excess P locks out everything and is easily mistaken for a cal/mag deficiency in the beginning stages.

 

[MIGrampaUSA]

I was talking about P=Phosphorus as in NPK ratio, not Potassium, which is K. Excess P locks out everything and is easily mistaken for a cal/mag deficiency in the beginning stages.

Yes, I caught that brain fart and corrected myself a few posts down. Just needed a gentle push for my thc laden brain. lol

Edit: Regardless, if his soil is indeed pH-ing too low, that should be corrected first before attempting to resolve deficiencies.

 

[Hidd3nGr0w]

Im fertilizing at 600-700 with RO water and after that I add kelp and humic acid , I didn't want to go high with fertilizing since I have to water almost 3 times a week due to hot weather so didn't want to burn the plant , the run off water was below 6 before flushing, but after flushing and using sodium hydroxide , it got to seven or a little less.
Thanks for the info.

At 6 weeks into flower, you should not be foliar spraying anything as stated a couple of posts ago. You only have 3-4 weeks left in your grow so you should be figuring into that time frame tapering down your nutrients going into these last weeks anyway. As an example using only 1/2 recommended dose of nutes this week, 1/4 next week, using straight water the last weeks to finish. Think about dropping your feedings as well to every other watering. Not to say change the number of waterings, but feedings.

I am curious though, if you have ever ran a whole grow with just your river water? With the high ppm I would be interested to see if it has enough macro/micro nutes in it to do a whole grow stand alone in soil that already comes buffered, like FFOF or Happy Frog or Roots Organics. I would be stoked if I had a water source that needed nothing but to be poured in to make my plants grow.

 

[Hidd3nGr0w]

Yes, I caught that brain fart and corrected myself a few posts down. Just needed a gentle push for my thc laden brain. lol

Edit: Regardless, if his soil is indeed pH-ing too low, that should be corrected first before attempting to resolve deficiencies.

No worries. Just giving clarification.

There was some very good information given on this site of a scientific study out of NC State university horticulture dept in regards to soil and ph and hemp/cannabis.

 

[MIGrampaUSA]

At 6 weeks into flower, you should not be foliar spraying anything as stated a couple of posts ago. You only have 3-4 weeks left in your grow so you should be figuring into that time frame tapering down your nutrients going into these last weeks anyway. As an example using only 1/2 recommended dose of nutes this week, 1/4 next week, using straight water the last weeks to finish. Think about dropping your feedings as well to every other watering. Not to say change the number of waterings, but feedings.

I am curious though, if you have ever ran a whole grow with just your river water? With the high ppm I would be interested to see if it has enough macro/micro nutes in it to do a whole grow stand alone in soil that already comes buffered, like FFOF or Happy Frog or Roots Organics. I would be stoked if I had a water source that needed nothing but to be poured in to make my plants grow.

It's a municipal water source so I believe his municipality should have a water quality report on file. It would tell us exactly what's in the water.

 

[Haydar1984]

At 6 weeks into flower, you should not be foliar spraying anything as stated a couple of posts ago. You only have 3-4 weeks left in your grow so you should be figuring into that time frame tapering down your nutrients going into these last weeks anyway. As an example using only 1/2 recommended dose of nutes this week, 1/4 next week, using straight water the last weeks to finish. Think about dropping your feedings as well to every other watering. Not to say change the number of waterings, but feedings.

I am curious though, if you have ever ran a whole grow with just your river water? With the high ppm I would be interested to see if it has enough macro/micro nutes in it to do a whole grow stand alone in soil that already comes buffered, like FFOF or Happy Frog or Roots Organics. I would be stoked if I had a water source that needed nothing but to be poured in to make my plants grow.

We use only tap water to water some greens pots inside the house and they do suffer after a while and need ferts , so no this water is not enough, this is my first canna grow so I'm trying to do my best.

 

[Haydar1984]

It's a municipal water source so I believe his municipality should have a water quality report on file. It would tell us exactly what's in the water.

Living in Iraq you get no info about these things from municipality or government , the water is just good enough to wash

 

[MIGrampaUSA]

We use only tap water to water some greens pots inside the house and they do suffer after a while and need ferts , so no this water is not enough, this is my first canna grow so I'm trying to do my best.

Is your water chlorine-free when you water your "canna grow?" If not, letting it sit open with an air stone will get most of the chlorine out. Residual amounts won't hurt, but chlorinated municipal water isn't real good for plants.

 

[MIGrampaUSA]

Living in Iraq you get no info about these things from municipality or government , the water is just good enough to wash

I had no idea ... yes, that makes sense. Municipal water sources in the USA require water quality reports. I'm not sure about everywhere else.

 

[Haydar1984]

Is your water chlorine-free when you water your "canna grow?" If not, letting it sit open with an air stone will get most of the chlorine out. Residual amounts won't hurt, but chlorinated municipal water isn't real good for plants.

I use RO water , so yes its chlorine free , for other plants we mostly use water saved in a tank , so it gets some time for the chlorine to evaporate before watering