A few shots of my rooms growing in Beds with some new strains WIFI X SOUR D and...

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TheCoolestMan

TheCoolestMan

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This Dutch site legit? How long they take to deliver to west coast?

This one is yeah, I think it takes up to ten days. U can email them as I'm sure they deal with a lot of orders from CA. Ask them to send it as a gift, no tax. :)

Hey Jack, is it safe to run the tea through the Octa Bubblers?
 
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GR33NL3AF

GR33NL3AF

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Thanks, we've been using Fasilitor w MassBoost in foliar but hadn't thought to you use it w our other foliars. Will try for sure, thanks again.
Your style has inspired our grow quite a bit so thanks for popping back up and answering questions again. Here's a pic of one of our beds, we're definitely getting the quality but not the yields. Guess it's time to stop being stubborn and switch to coco.View attachment 362529
Very nice Ridge!
IMO, any grow over 4000 watts is for production, in that regard, soil just does not make sense. After all isn't the idea to shorten veg and produce big numbers? Coco for the win brother!
 
JACKMAYOFFER

JACKMAYOFFER

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First I wanna agree with @Ridge thanks for sharing and answering questions as you gotta spend 80% of your day in those awesome rooms . I think i am going to give coco a try also , my question is i see you have the yellow sticky traps around so does the coco generate more knats than in soil as that is my only fear of coco is bugs getting out of control and knock on wood i'm bug free but plants def appear to yield more in coco ...
I used to use the sticky traps as a precaution in case but since we have been brewing OG bio war we haven't seen a bad bug , knat, Aphid anything of the sort... Our coco is alive and well with the good kind!!!....
 
R

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@Ridge Was that PVC frame meant to support your buds bro?[/quote]
Yeah, it holds the trellis that you can't see because it's buried by the plants. It looks real high in that pic because we cut them to standard heights to accommodate all strains. This strain is a shorter one. The PVC is part of the tray liner, it holds the bed together and provides support for the trellis. The tray liners are from geopots.com.
I used to use the sticky traps as a precaution in case but since we have been brewing OG bio war we haven't seen a bad bug , knat, Aphid anything of the sort... Our coco is alive and well with the good kind!!!....
We haven't seen a single flying bug either since using OGBiowar, still have aphid issues from time to time but they can never gain a real foothold since we started using Caps. Our soil beds stay wet for so long it's hard for us to get a full tea watering in regularly without messing w our weekly feeding schedule. Another reason I want to try coco.
 
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R

Ridge

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Jack, if I remember correctly, you water your 20 light rooms w 100 gals, twice a day, so am I correct in saying that each bed is getting 10 gals twice a day? Or is it 5 gal twice a day? The coco must stay soaking wet all the time, no? I remember coco doesn't like to dry out like soil but still seems like a crazy amount of H2O every day.
 
Capulator

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@Ridge Was that PVC frame meant to support your buds bro?
Yeah, it holds the trellis that you can't see because it's buried by the plants. It looks real high in that pic because we cut them to standard heights to accommodate all strains. This strain is a shorter one. The PVC is part of the tray liner, it holds the bed together and provides support for the trellis. The tray liners are from geopots.com.

We haven't seen a single flying bug either since using OGBiowar, still have aphid issues from time to time but they can never gain a real foothold since we started using Caps. Our soil beds stay wet for so long it's hard for us to get a full tea watering in regularly without messing w our weekly feeding schedule. Another reason I want to try coco.[/quote]

I have the geopots as well! I always set my frames at 18" above the soil level and then bob and weave. I still need to show you guys my trellis method IMHO it works better than anything else come harvest time.
 
R

Ridge

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Yeah, it holds the trellis that you can't see because it's buried by the plants. It looks real high in that pic because we cut them to standard heights to accommodate all strains. This strain is a shorter one. The PVC is part of the tray liner, it holds the bed together and provides support for the trellis. The tray liners are from geopots.com.

We haven't seen a single flying bug either since using OGBiowar, still have aphid issues from time to time but they can never gain a real foothold since we started using Caps. Our soil beds stay wet for so long it's hard for us to get a full tea watering in regularly without messing w our weekly feeding schedule. Another reason I want to try coco.

I have the geopots as well! I always set my frames at 18" above the soil level and then bob and weave. I still need to show you guys my trellis method IMHO it works better than anything else come harvest time.[/quote]
Then show us!! I tried the weave thing Jack suggested and it works great for plant training but man, what a fucking mess come harvest. Even when you cut out the trellis, it's still a spider webbed ratnest, but whatever it takes to hit those big numbers I guess.
 
ftwendy

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When a shoot goes through the screen, keep bending the growing tip back toward the screen but not back under it. If you send the growing tip under the screen again you will have a real mess at harvest, and the tip might get 'stuck' or stall out under another branch...otoh, if you pass the branches through the screen only once, then you simply snip the branch at the screen and hang. Makes separating the tops from the larf very simple.

This is what the method looks like in my space on a forum plant... first time manipulating the forum in a screen, second grow in the space, so this is by no means a perfect example. Cap will show us how that's done. :)
RwgscVegtrain


The zip ties you can see are holding the branches against the screen after the growing tip was fed through from beneath. I spread the plant out in a basically radial pattern, then stand back and let them stretch and frost and fatten.... very little training after this point, mostly redirecting and canopy thinning.

When you train and harvest this way, there is no need to cut out the screen and/or replace it each round. Hope this helps
 
Capulator

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@ftwendy I actually do the opposite and keep them under the screen. I bend them and position them so that they are pushing up on the screen, then they grow a little, and I bend them down and under the screen again, then the last few days of stretch I let them grow up through it. This is low stress training at it's finest, but you need to be careful not to break your tops off. Cool ramping with the wood frame and trellis!

@Ridge here is a pic of how I screen normally. I have done every which way and this is the easiest. Weave the clothesline back and forth, and when done just cut one end and pull the pieces through. PLants come right out this way there is pretty much no tangled mess. Clothesline is really cheap too. Sorry these plants look wilty the pic was taken at night time. They are much perkier at lights on. :joyful:

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Sorry @JACKMAYOFFER for the mini jack. I think I told you about the clothesline method a long time ago but never showed you a pic. You should try a bed like this sometime and see if you like it better than the netting. I think each frame takes me roughly 5 minutes. probably less. It's longer putting it in but fast as hell taking it out. You can actually reuse the string over and over, but usually I just cut each section and pull them through and toss them in the trash with the fan leaves. The spacing between each set of lines is roughly 4".
 
ftwendy

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Hell yeah @Capulator -- that's a very simple and effective screen. Between the pvc and fresh ropes, you can keep everything spotless with minimal effort. Very elegant solution.
 
Capulator

Capulator

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@ftwendy the problem with the metal screen and tying them down to it is that you will not be able to harvest like Jack does. He hangs the whole plant. Same with me. The metal grid is too small and will shred the buds when you try to pull them through. I will post a pic up how I trained my cookies with the exact same metal screen, if it's ok with jack to do that here.
 
Quadchomes

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Hi Jack, can't tell you how much you've inspired me to take things to a whole other level. Enjoy reading your posts and studying all the pics you post. Super informative! Just been reading from the shadows but see The Farm and other forums as some of the best education out there and want to participate more. So never ending thanks and appreciation for all the time and effort you've contributed over the years. You've changed the game for a lot of us. Looking forward to the best year ever, setting up a grow based almost entirely on what's been learned from your posts.

That being said, hopefully you can spare some time to answer some of my questions:
Have a SCROG setup, no CO2 with 3x8 gal cch2o buckets per 1000w, that yields #1.2ish/1000w, just under what we used to do in SOG in those same rooms. (BTW, you inspired that one too.) Which brings me to believe that we can maybe have good success with the system you use now despite a reduction of plants. We can only use 4 plants per 4x4. Otherwise everything will be the same as your setup. Plants will be prevegged in 3 gal smart pots about 2 weeks then transferred and vegged for another 2 to 3 weeks in the 4x4 chow mix trays. We just spread the plant out when we lower the scrog onto them, so they have a nice canopy spread that we further weave. Do you see anything wrong with my logic here? Do the buckets produce way more with one plant than can be done in coco?

Growing with CO2 causes thick stems and when spreading those girls for the SCROG I'd hate to bust a bitch. We've noticed that sometimes the girls hold less pressure than other times, but can't get a handle on the variables that allow this. Do you have any tricks (watering, environmental) to get the stem to hold less pressure so that they can bend easier?

Was planning on having the moms and cuttings in the same veg room(CO2), but noticed you keep them separate and sterile. I get the sterile part but do you also use CO2 for the moms/cuttings room?

Sorry for the long post,but thanks again for everything. Happy New Year and hope to hear back.
 
drknockbootz

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Jack, Im on my 5th round of reusing my chowmix in beds.
I always feel like if I dont stay on top of bennies (sea green, compost tea, etc) things can go wrong pretty quick. And sometimes I get some deficiencies half way through.
Do you feel like the longer you reuse your mix the more tempermental the medium becomes?
Also when I transplant I get some stalling typically before they take off. I raise lights up and I water every other day but they seem to spudder for a week before they really get going.
Any tips ?
 
A

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Jack
I have been having issues with bud rot right around the beginning of week 7 of bloom. My room is 35ft x 25ft 10 ft ceiling with 20 adjust a wings with 10 tons of air completely sealed room with 50 trees about 5 ft tall in 7 gallon smart pots.
I have a Phoenix 200 MAX LGR Dehumidifier & a Quest dry 180 Dehumidifier. My day time RH is 65% & night time RH is 74% also my day temps set on ac thermostat is 77 & night time 70 . Do you think installing two UV lights inside my air handlers will stop the bud Rot?
Thanks
 
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