A little help for my friends

  • Thread starter vic vega
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V

vic vega

:character0029:Im really new at this, and i could really use a little help... im not sure how to take a soil pH reading, so it is possible that it is the beginning stages of nute lock, or more then one deficancy. please take a look at the pictures, and hit me with any suguestions youve got. thanks for everything so far.
Soil Growers:
1. Are you growing from seed or clones? grape ape clones
2. How old are your plants? 40 days
3. How tall are your plants? 16"-18"
4. What size containers are they planted in?2gal smart pots
5. What is your soil mix?FFOF
6. How often do you water and what type of water do you use? every 2-3 days target drinking water
7. What is the pH of your water?6.4- 6.5pH
8. What kind of fertilizer do you use and what is its NPK ratio? FF grow big 6-4-4 & big bloom 0.01-0.3-0.7 aurora Orgenism XL once, and mollasses once
9. Do you foliar feed or spray your plants with anything?nope
10. What kind of lights do you use and how many watts combined? (HPS, MH, fluorescent, halogen, incandescent "plant lights") 400 watt HSP
11. How close are your lights to the plants? 13"-15"
12. What size is your grow space in square feet? 2.6'x2.6
13. What is the temperature and humidity in your grow space? 57*f- 77*f / 40%-60%
14. What is the pH of the soil?i dont know how to take this reading
15. Have you noticed any insect activity in your grow space? no
16. How much experience do you have growing? third season. first indoor
the first pic is of a middle fan leaf.
second pic is burning tips and possibly a zinc def
third is a close up of the burn
fourth is the whole garden... you can see that the front right plant is quite a bit more yellow then the rest
 
Dr. Detroit

Dr. Detroit

I'd say overwatering, iron deficiency, and calcium deficiency by the photo's. Likely all related to a pH problem, but also not helped by the overwatering.

Get a cheap Home Depot soil pH\moisture\light meter (around $18 usually) and use it.

Personally I don't water until the pots are nearly dry. Just lift them and feel for the difference in weight before watering again. Use a pH adjusted water source in the future also, if you don't have a water pH meter.

Nutrients are to plants what vitamins are to us. Don't eat a near-lethal dose of Flintstone chewable vitamins and then back off twenty percent (which is the odd logic used by many growers). Use no nutrients at all unless there's a sign that they're needed, and then use only about a quarter of a dose until the problem is resolved.

If you're new then start with a good soil. It's forgiving and gives a good quality smoke.
 
Tobor the 8th Man

Tobor the 8th Man

Supporter
If you ph'd the water then use that to ph the run off from the bottom of the pots.

When the room is 57 degrees what is the temperature at pot level and on the floor?

Get distilled water instead of drinking water at Target. They do weird shit to drinking water. Like UV radiate it and also use water softeners in some. Use distilled or spring water. Preferably distilled.

Mix up or go buy a fertilizer foliar spray and give your plants a spray of that until you get the root zone figured out. That will feed them while you correct the ph or cold root zone temps or overwatering.
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
The necrotic lesions on the lower leaves, at edges and on veins, reads as a calcium deficiency to me. The overall yellowish cast to your girls indicates they're probably hungry (for magnesium? Possibly, I don't see a definitive tell), unless you've been feeding those FF products at full strength. I only use FF Big Bloom, not their soil or any other FF product, because Big Bloom is the only organic/natural product they offer.

In any event, I'd give a foliar mix of the following; Cal-Mg+ OR a product that delivers calcium (nitrate would be appropriate in this case I think) and Epsom salts at 1/4tsp/gal. I would also make a tea of worm castings, about 1C castings for a 5gal bucket of good, clean water. Personally, I'd prefer to use a carbon filter for my home tap, and suggest you do the same UNLESS your source water is known to be of bad quality requiring reverse osmosis or similar filtration.

Then I would give a few plain waterings, no feed. It's going to take you a while to see any results being as you're growing in soil.

Oh! Get thee some good kelp or seaweed, too. Liquid, for feedings.
 
V

vic vega

Oh! Get thee some good kelp or seaweed, too. Liquid, for feedings.
ok so should i be using the kelp/seaweed for the folier feeding, or just to add to the watering regiment?
is there a specific brand of the cal, mag and kelp that you would recomend?
 
V

vic vega

If you ph'd the water then use that to ph the run off from the bottom of the pots.

When the room is 57 degrees what is the temperature at pot level and on the floor?

Get distilled water instead of drinking water at Target. They do weird shit to drinking water. Like UV radiate it and also use water softeners in some. Use distilled or spring water. Preferably distilled.

Mix up or go buy a fertilizer foliar spray and give your plants a spray of that until you get the root zone figured out. That will feed them while you correct the ph or cold root zone temps or overwatering.
ok so ive checked the pot and floor temps at different times with my info red thermo, and the always seem to be with in a degree of plant top temps. whats the coldest that i should allow the room to get??? cold root zone?
 
mastacheeser

mastacheeser

65-75 is the recomened temp, not sure at what point this will cause problems tho
did it say your ph is 6.5? def a lil high
youll get more even absoration rates a lil closer to 6
i use botanicare calmag with success. the only thing i dont like about it is that it has nitrogen in it, so i have to cut it back a lil late in flower
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
Masta, he's not growing in coco, he's growing in soil, and a pH of 6 is too low for soil growing. He needs to keep it closer to 6.5-6.8.
ok so should i be using the kelp/seaweed for the folier feeding, or just to add to the watering regiment?
is there a specific brand of the cal, mag and kelp that you would recomend?
Both! I like Growmore's seaweed, I like the kelp extract Peaceful Valley sells, and I like Maxicrop. Actually, I've not found a seaweed/kelp product that I *don't* like, maybe that'll make it easier for you. The Growmore smells almost like soy sauce, like you should be using it to cook with.

I can't recommend a specific brand for Ca/Mg, everyone has different experiences. I've switched to using an organic 6% Ca product with MgSO4 (Epsom salts). Just purchased some Calplex to try because it was the highest percent Ca product the hydro shop had. I've used Sensical (an AN product), which isn't cheap but it seems to work well enough, though I don't get the low dosing rates in relation to the Ca/Mg numbers. Have used GO Cal-Mag+ to good results, but not good enough for me, that's what led to the separation of products. Get one that smells good, for sure.
 
V

vic vega

update

thank you all for your help. in the mean time... I have had a small problem with some mold or fungus on the leaves... only seemed to affect the middle point on fan leaves, so i cut it all off and sprayed it good with a hydrogen peroxide solution... i also picked up some botanicare calmag, and GO Bio weed that im going to folier feed with... im still trying to sort out the soil pH... is there a ppm range or pH range for what should be sprayed??? I will post updated pictures tomorrow... BIG thank you to everyone for your help so far
 
B

bonerface

You need to add back in the cal mag to the target water. Looks like cal deficiency to me. Also I see your humidity is 71%. That's where your mold/mildew issues are coming. That's pretty damn high and you need to get that number below 50% for flower. Battle the mold at the source by controling your humidity/environment.
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
No disrespect, bonerface, but I disagree. Mold can and will take hold in RH situations that are much lower than 71%, and simply lowering RH will not make it go away.
thank you all for your help. in the mean time... I have had a small problem with some mold or fungus on the leaves... only seemed to affect the middle point on fan leaves, so i cut it all off and sprayed it good with a hydrogen peroxide solution... i also picked up some botanicare calmag, and GO Bio weed that im going to folier feed with... im still trying to sort out the soil pH... is there a ppm range or pH range for what should be sprayed??? I will post updated pictures tomorrow... BIG thank you to everyone for your help so far
For soil you want feed pH to be in the 6.5-6.8 range. Foliaring you've got some more leeway in that regard, but if you went with the same range it would work very well and perhaps would help to keep things simpler for you right now.

Use the CalMag at recommended dosing rates, then watch.

Btw, the mold/fungus is likely powdery mildew, and simply removing the leaves will not rid the plant of the fungus. The treatment with H2O2 is helpful, but will only remove the fruiting bodies (what you see on leaf surfaces).
 
B

bonerface

No disrespect, bonerface, but I disagree. Mold can and will take hold in RH situations that are much lower than 71%, and simply lowering RH will not make it go away.

For soil you want feed pH to be in the 6.5-6.8 range. Foliaring you've got some more leeway in that regard, but if you went with the same range it would work very well and perhaps would help to keep things simpler for you right now.

Use the CalMag at recommended dosing rates, then watch.

Btw, the mold/fungus is likely powdery mildew, and simply removing the leaves will not rid the plant of the fungus. The treatment with H2O2 is helpful, but will only remove the fruiting bodies (what you see on leaf surfaces).

I agree, sorry if that was misleading. The high humidity is the number one cause for the mold mildew to present itself. I never stated you wont run into issues with pm in a low humidity enviro. But it definately is a major determining factor. If I gave advice on pm id say chop it as its the only way I choose when that whore shows herself. I've tried the sprays, dips, all that bs and I've never found them to be effective. If they were effective they ruined my end product and it wasn't worth it anyways. Just my personal opinion tho.
 
V

vic vega

fucked-up:date

ok im still not really sure what im continuing to do, or not do wrong. here are current pictures. All 4 plants are displaying different symptoms. the soil is moderatly dry and hard to the touch. in the picture of the stock there appears to be a begine male node at the >. I found 2 little flys there is one dead one in the middle of the second to last picture. The meter also displays highs and lows for the last 24 hours (aprox. since i reset it).

I have also been trying to find info on pH and ppm levels for foliar feeding, but have not been able to learn the forums well enough yet... any and all help is greatly apreciated. Thank You
 
V

vic vega

No disrespect, bonerface, but I disagree. Mold can and will take hold in RH situations that are much lower than 71%, and simply lowering RH will not make it go away.

For soil you want feed pH to be in the 6.5-6.8 range. Foliaring you've got some more leeway in that regard, but if you went with the same range it would work very well and perhaps would help to keep things simpler for you right now.

Use the CalMag at recommended dosing rates, then watch.

Btw, the mold/fungus is likely powdery mildew, and simply removing the leaves will not rid the plant of the fungus. The treatment with H2O2 is helpful, but will only remove the fruiting bodies (what you see on leaf surfaces).
botanicare cal-mag says 1tsp per gal for soil container gardens, no recomendation for foliar feeding....whats a good ppm or EC for foliar feeding... also i dont think its PM.. its a dark gray mold looking substance... only found it on middle points close to the vein, on fan leafs
 
B

bonerface

Damn what a tard, I just noticed I was looking at your temp not your rh lol. The sad thing is that I have the same exact meter. Hurray for walmart..........and tards.
 
R

RockPhosphate

Its the tent bro... The white walls gave it away.

Do a google search for "grow tent offgassing".
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
The black spot looks like black spot to me (Septoria). Defoliates pretty quickly if you don't get a handle on it. Use a cupric solution, I used Kop-R-Safe to eradicate, took several treatments and I had to finally go REALLY strong.

But, I've gotta say that it does look like something else is going on there.

To foliar any product, I usually use 1/4 strength the recommended root-feeding rate. So, 1tsp (5mls) for root feeding the Ca-Mg, so for foliar use 1/4tsp.
 
V

vic vega

thanks again maiden... ive been researching outgassing / offgassing for the last 2 hours... i have a home box, and it says its 100% polymaide on the inside... homebox says that their shit is not affected by offgassing, but im not convinced....
 
A

amstercal

Could you tell us what you've been doing over the last week water/feed wise? Plants will take at least 3 days to bounce back and the old necrotic growth isn't going to green back up.

That being said in my not-at-all-professional opinion your roots look like they're unhappy. The very first pic you posted of a leaf up close, are your leaves very thin and soft on the newer growth? Did they look a little better after the foliar for a couple of days then worse again?

Are you stumped enough to maybe pull apart your unhealthiest plant and checking out what's going on in the pot? There are a lot of reasons your roots could be unhappy. Here are a few that seem to be possibilities for your situation: pH was too high or low at one point and burned the roots, the roots got too cold and started to die off, root aphids, fungus gnat larvae. Do some searches on root rot, root aphids and fungus gnat larvae before you pull the plant. Then take the plant away from your room, preferably outside and tear the soil and roots apart slowly and meticulously. Hopefully they will tell you what you need to know.

If you don't want to pull a plant apart, maybe the feed schedule will help with what's up.
 
V

vic vega

Could you tell us what you've been doing over the last week water/feed wise? Plants will take at least 3 days to bounce back and the old necrotic growth isn't going to green back up.
in the last week i have just given them enough water to keep them alive, and sprayed once with H202 solution... i am plannin to foliar feed before lights out with a quarter dose each of cal-mag and bio weed.
 
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