A newbie with question about EC and pH

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HerbalEdu

HerbalEdu

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As you know I’m a organic grower
Your more all round & know more about his food I had a glance but I didn’t see anything saying organic on it.
If it was an organic grow I’d be all over it but it’s not is it ? Is his food actually organic
same organic grower here : )

but few month ago i was considering trying some other nutrients.

initially i was looking into their organic line as an equivalent to gaia green in the eu

but i also looked at their mineral line per curiosity

they say the food is mineral with nutrients readily available for the roots without the need to be processed by soil bacteria, so it's equivalent to synthetic.


There more than a calcium deficiency going on
most prolly.
 
Gmix

Gmix

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they say the food is mineral with nutrients readily available for the roots without the need to be processed by soil bacteria, so it's equivalent to synthetic.



most prolly.

It would make sense.

personally I think there’s to much ph fluctuating going on even with organic a ph of 8.5 maybe to high to buffer

The curled leaves just look like you’d see when the ph is out with a synthetic grow.
I gone over them a few times & it just seems like a ph thing as well as lack of calcium

I’d suggest you ph down your water on the days your not adding the food witch is quite acidic considering it brings your ph down to 6.5 when mixed.

Plants prefer the ph to be consistent
 
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anolis

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It would make sense.

personally I think there’s to much ph fluctuating going on even with organic a ph of 8.5 maybe to high to buffer

The curled leaves just look like you’d see when the ph is out with a synthetic grow.
I gone over them a few times & it just seems like a ph thing as well as lack of calcium

I’d suggest you ph down your water on the days your not adding the food witch is quite acidic considering it brings your ph down to 6.5 when mixed.

Plants prefer the ph to be consistent
Yeah I will do that. Can I rely on the pH drops or would I need to get a pH meter if I am using pH down?
 
HerbalEdu

HerbalEdu

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pH drops are fine enough to adjust pH with soil.

you get close to the ideal ph range for soil 6,2 - 7,3 like aiming for 6,5 7, and soil ph buffer capacity will do the rest
 
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anolis

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As you know I’m a organic grower
Your more all round & know more about his food I had a glance but I didn’t see anything saying organic on it.
If it was an organic grow I’d be all over it but it’s not is it ? Is his food actually organic

There’s more than a calcium deficiency going on
I remember your pic I think & I said back then it wasn’t a calcium issue & when really what I should have said it it’s more than just a calcium deficiency. You’ve got twisted leaves & the leaves don’t look healthy

If your gonna rule out ph & am not so sure about that then there really only temperature or lights being to close however they don’t look like the lights to close. That & off course your watering habits might explain the color of the leaves however it wouldn’t explain the twisted leaves

Have you another pic of the whole plant
Yeah I think so too.
Light is 40 cm away, which is the recommendation. Temperatures are around 25 degrees celcius, but fluctuate somewhat. I think I am watering correctly. I know how to use a moisture meter correctly and I water when it drops to 2-3. I also have a lot of plants, so I know what is a too dry or too moist soil.
Bottom leaves look healthy.
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A

anolis

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pH drops are fine enough to adjust pH with soil.

you get close to the ideal ph range for soil 6,2 - 7,3 like aiming for 6,5, and soil ph buffer capacity will do the rest
Thanks!
Sorry for million questions, but since I will be ordering pH up and down again, I am wondering if I should get the long flowering powder too. Not sure how big of a problem is the too high K in the short flowering powder that I am using.
I guess I can use the short flowering powder for other plants if I decide to exchange it...?
 
HerbalEdu

HerbalEdu

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Buds doesn't looks big, more like elongated and foxtailing kinda like dr grinspoon strain or some sativa to a certain extent.

Some of the calyx/bracts near the apex look like they are rather well swollen that could suggest you are nearing the end ...

and all those 3 bladed leaves suggest that she experienced some kind of stress along the grow ...

how old is that plant ?
photoperiods or automatics ? (how many weeks since 12/12 switch if photo) ?
 
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anolis

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Buds doesn't looks big, more like elongated and foxtailing kinda like dr grinspoon strain or some sativa to a certain extent.

Some of the calyx/bracts near the apex look like they are rather well swollen that could suggest you are nearing the end ...

and all those 3 bladed leaves suggest that she experienced some kind of stress along the grow ...

how old is that plant ?
photoperiods or automatics ? (how many weeks since 12/12 switch if photo) ?
It´s a gorilla cookies auto. I think I planted it on Jan 17th, which would already make it week 13 and I think it is supposed to take 10 weeks. But maybe it took longer, because I invested in a proper grow light only somewhere in between growing.
I will get a magnifying glass asap to check, but how long would you say I might have until the end? In the last week when I only need to flush, do I also need to use ph balanced water and added calcium?
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HerbalEdu

HerbalEdu

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looks more mature near the top than below. hard to say if clear or milky, but not seeing much amber inside the buds or sugar leaves with some of the photos well focused and magnified enough for me to usually see.

but it looks more like a single branche foxtailing at each node than your usual buds.

this and the 3 bladed leaves could suggest stressfull growing conditions long before.
 
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Gmix

Gmix

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Looking at it all

I’d take this run as a learning curve.
she’s been through to much stress for an automatic.
Automatic are not great for learning you gotta hit the ground running with them to get much back.

I’d suggest next time try photo periods there much more forgiving & yield more.

Couple of things

How many watts is your light it doesn’t look bright enough ( I wouldn’t suggest lowering it )

In veg you can get away with much less light than you need in flower for the buds not to be airy

Are them pots made from terracotta or plastic

Btw she may get worse before she gets better a calcium deficiency can take a bit of time to recover
 
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anolis

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Looking at it all

I’d take this run as a learning curve.
she’s been through to much stress for an automatic.
Automatic are not great for learning you gotta hit the ground running with them to get much back.

I’d suggest next time try photo periods there much more forgiving & yield more.

Couple of things

How many watts is your light it doesn’t look bright enough ( I wouldn’t suggest lowering it )

In veg you can get away with much less light than you need in flower for the buds not to be airy

Are them pots made from terracotta or plastic

Btw she may get worse before she gets better a calcium deficiency can take a bit of time to recover
Thanks for the input! Definetly a learning experience 😆 I am better equipped now and I think I know what doesn´t work, so hopfully next time will be better.

I have the plant in my room, not in a tent so I wouldn´t be able to provide 16 hours of light at the vegetative stage. I guess that is more a problem for the photo than an auto? I got a gorilla cookie auto seed for free which is what made me try it out and it said it is very beginner friendly...

100 watts. It is PHLIZON PL1000 and I have it on the highest intensty setting. The thing is I only bought it halfway through the growing in the vegetative stage so maybe this is why it didn´t grow great.

It is terracotta pot.

It is almost ready to harvest, so not sure she will get better, but hopefully the yield won´t be totally worthless.
 
Gmix

Gmix

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Ah right at the first chance you get switch that terracotta pot for a plastic or fabric pot

Terracotta pots aren’t the best option for cannabis.

100 watts is fine for veg however when In flower they need a stronger light or the buds come out airy & not that compact

I thought your light was to close or something the way it’s looking but was hesitant to say so for a reason I won’t mention

16hrs on the photos is fine some do 12/12 straight from seed albeit that’s best for tall sativas your would only veg for 18hrs max anyway on photo periods

Happy your not to depressed about the outcome & learned a lot from it

Good luck bud 👍🙂
 
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anolis

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Ah right at the first chance you get switch that terracotta pot for a plastic or fabric pot

Terracotta pots aren’t the best option for cannabis.

100 watts is fine for veg however when In flower they need a stronger light or the buds come out airy & not that compact

I thought your light was to close or something the way it’s looking but was hesitant to say so for a reason I won’t mention

16hrs on the photos is fine some do 12/12 straight from seed albeit that’s best for tall sativas your would only veg for 18hrs max anyway on photo periods

Happy your not to depressed about the outcome & learned a lot from it

Good luck bud 👍🙂
Why do you think I should switch the pot?

That is a shame, although I just bought this light and already wasn´t prepared to invest as much as I did in this little project, so it will have to do.

Did you susspect light stress because of the three pointed leaves or something else?

Not at all, it is kind of fun. I also really appreciate how helpful people are on growing forums. I am also in the reptile hobby and rearly get useful help with more in depth questions.
 
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anolis

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looks more mature near the top than below. hard to say if clear or milky, but not seeing much amber inside the buds or sugar leaves with some of the photos well focused and magnified enough for me to usually see.

but it looks more like a single branche foxtailing at each node than your usual buds.

this and the 3 bladed leaves could suggest stressfull growing conditions long before.
Yea, the stress was probably the lack of light when I was still trying to grow with no additional grow light.

Would you suggest harvesting in stages? Top half of the plant seems ripe to me (judging from the pistils, I didn´t see any amber trichomes yet, but it is also very difficult to see with the tiny jewler´s loupe that I got) but the bottom pistils are still white and straight. I read some people don´t recommend harvesting in stages because it can be too stresfull fot the plant. But if I cut some of the ripe branches, there would also be more light for the bottom buds. I already removed the damaged leaves to provide more light for the bottom buds.

I was also wondering about feeding at this end stage. I skipped the last feeding and only watered with added calcium and ph balanced tap water, because the nutrient schedule said to flush the last week of flowering. I didn´t flush, just had the usual 10% runoff, but I also read now that people recommend feeding until the end.
 
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A

anolis

50
18
same organic grower here : )

but few month ago i was considering trying some other nutrients.

initially i was looking into their organic line as an equivalent to gaia green in the eu

but i also looked at their mineral line per curiosity

they say the food is mineral with nutrients readily available for the roots without the need to be processed by soil bacteria, so it's equivalent to synthetic.
Would you recommend their bio feeding line? I am thinking of switching to organic growing for my next attempt, although I haven´t read about what that entails yet. Would really appreciate your thoughts.
 
Gmix

Gmix

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Why do you think I should switch the pot?

That is a shame, although I just bought this light and already wasn´t prepared to invest as much as I did in this little project, so it will have to do.

Did you susspect light stress because of the three pointed leaves or something else?

Not at all, it is kind of fun. I also really appreciate how helpful people are on growing forums. I am also in the reptile hobby and rearly get useful help with more in depth questions.
Researching again it seems that I was wrong about the terracotta pot
 
HerbalEdu

HerbalEdu

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Yea, the stress was probably the lack of light when I was still trying to grow with no additional grow light.

Would you suggest harvesting in stages? Top half of the plant seems ripe to me (judging from the pistils, I didn´t see any amber trichomes yet, but it is also very difficult to see with the tiny jewler´s loupe that I got) but the bottom pistils are still white and straight. I read some people don´t recommend harvesting in stages because it can be too stresfull fot the plant. But if I cut some of the ripe branches, there would also be more light for the bottom buds. I already removed the damaged leaves to provide more light for the bottom buds.

i can't really give a good advice here, i personnally never harvest in stage but that personal and with your plant there is a noticeable difference in pistil color ratio top and bottom of the plant.

some of your photo are well focused and magnified enough to see amber trichrome if there were some

but some plant sometime will hardly have any amber at all and just milky trichromes.

I was also wondering about feeding at this end stage. I skipped the last feeding and only watered with added calcium and ph balanced tap water, because the nutrient schedule said to flush the last week of flowering. I didn´t flush, just had the usual 10% runoff, but I also read now that people recommend feeding until the end.

flushing have been proven unecessary, blind taste test have shown people prefer rather equally flushed and unflushed weed, could save a little on the nutrient bill tho', when my plant are healthy near the end and not fading too much i could stop giving them nutrients the last week or two

Would you recommend their bio feeding line? I am thinking of switching to organic growing for my next attempt, although I haven´t read about what that entails yet. Would really appreciate your thoughts.
i m following a guy on growdiaries that use their bio feeding line solely with his outdoor, seem to work good enough.

 
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