air in, light out? grow tent passive air intake ideas, please.

[IamN2pot]

You know those screened "vent" openings that have the cover velcro'ed onto the outside of the tent. How do you use them to let air in while keeping light out? I know how I use them, but I'm sure open to ideas and improvements. IMHO, there may be room for improvements in the grow tents we use. Please, feel free to post your solutions and ideas.
If I could make one (seemingly simple) design change, they need to reverse the hook and loop of the velcro everywhere it is on the tent. Sew the hook side on the tent and the loop side on the removable cover. Why, because then I can use air filter material that will just stick to the hooks. Every one I've ever seen has the loops sewn onto the tent and I have to tape a filter over that vent to block out light. The air filter material sticks great to the flap..... see the pictures.

It would also be extra nice if they sewed hook velcro on the inside of the vent. Then we could use an oversize 'vent' cover attached to the inside of the tent as a 'darkout' curtain. Silver side to match the inside and black side facing the vent. Here is a picture of my super simple prototype I use, with clothes pins, LOL! Next to it, a picture of what I would like from tent makers. Hook sewn on 3 sides, top, left and right. Then you couold velcro the 'inside air flow vent cover' to it. Air flows through the screen and down the inside of the curtian to behind the floor tray. (last picture)

 

[Clamup1]

I was going to use mine also, but didn't think about letting the light out.

 

[omega_mu]

If you get no light escape with your method I would say success. Anytime I want to use those vents and worry about light then I make and tape a box around vent. Make whole in of box and insert a 6in duct hose and long enough to bend around. This still will have little light showing from duct vent but not much and should be only place if done right. I stop using those vents. I just put a duct hose into the round ducting holes at bottom of tent for intake. I'm in texas in high heat, high humidity and those 2 extra vents have been no use to me, maybe using them wrong. But maybe see if they actually help you.

For me it's more about light leaking in , not light leak out. Unless I have other plants in flower in same room light leak out is ok but light leaking in from those vents is something else and they do allow light in if your room not dark and not sealed good.

 

[Clamup1]

Light in would definitely be a prob for me. Thanks for the tip.

 

[IamN2pot]

If you get no light escape with your method I would say success. Anytime I want to use those vents and worry about light then I make and tape a box around vent. Make whole in of box and insert a 6in duct hose and long enough to bend around. This still will have little light showing from duct vent but not much and should be only place if done right. I stop using those vents. I just put a duct hose into the round ducting holes at bottom of tent for intake. I'm in texas in high heat, high humidity and those 2 extra vents have been no use to me, maybe using them wrong. But maybe see if they actually help you.

For me it's more about light leaking in , not light leak out. Unless I have other plants in flower in same room light leak out is ok but light leaking in from those vents is something else and they do allow light in if your room not dark and not sealed good.

Sorry for the misunderstanding. Letting air in, keeping light out.
I guess there are some instances where keeping light in would be important, but not for this. This is all about keeping light out while letting fresh air in.
Do I think those vents can serve a purpose? Yep, just not like they are. But if someone has figured it out , please post what works for you.

 

[Blastfact]

I stopped worrying about light pollution 30 years ago. If I can read a large print book zipped up in my enclosure/tent then there is a problem. Little light leaks mean nothing. Both of my tents which I hope to be getting rid of next spring have a vent panel on the back that goes against a wall with about 2" of clearance. I open them up and vacuum the mesh when needed. Sometimes I open up one of the larger ports in the peak of summer if needed for a bit more air.

 

[omega_mu]

Sorry for the misunderstanding. Letting air in, keeping light out.
I guess there are some instances where keeping light in would be important, but not for this. This is all about keeping light out while letting fresh air in.
Do I think those vents can serve a purpose? Yep, just not like they are. But if someone has figured it out , please post what

Got ya. Well as long as any intake has long ducting that bends , lots of air gets in and light does not. Good luck. I'll be watching post as I'm curious. If anyone who uses the vents and actually get results id like to hear how they use as well. Whether light leaking or not vents never actually help control temp and/or humidity in my tent. In my case spent time trying to solve something that had no benefit for my grow unfortunately.

 

[freezeland2]

Use a supply fan instead of passive intake.

 

[ninjadip]

I stopped worrying about light pollution 30 years ago. If I can read a large print book zipped up in my enclosure/tent then there is a problem. Little light leaks mean nothing. Both of my tents which I hope to be getting rid of next spring have a vent panel on the back that goes against a wall with about 2" of clearance. I open them up and vacuum the mesh when needed. Sometimes I open up one of the larger ports in the peak of summer if needed for a bit more air.

exactly my thoughts.
i have my passive vents open and 2" from a wall. after one grow some dust will accumulate, you can rub your hand on it and it rolls up and you can throw it out. While i'm super new, i am not worried about small light leaks from that. my light cycle goes with the sun, so it's dark in here anyway at the right times.

i'm wondering how much light it takes to hermie, cause i have a fake aerogarden i use for cloning, and all of the clones are in flower because of it's dumb programmed veg light cycle of 14/8, and this strain flowers super easy. but anyways, not one has ever hermied there, and it has zero light curtain, 4' from my PC when i'm in here at night.

idk, maybe it's me but i don't think small light leaks are anything to stress about. think about the moonlight, it's almost bright enough to read under sometimes, but plants outside are good. even flood lights on fruit trees in the night don't do anything crazy to them.

maybe it has to happen to me before i fret. I do love what your doing OP, i never even thought about the concern tho

 

[Madmax]

Use the round passive hole beside it and grab some black 6' ? ducting and run it 90 deg outside the tent..if you use silver ducting the light will reflect off it and still enter the room..

 

[IamN2pot]

Use the round passive hole beside it and grab some black 6' ? ducting and run it 90 deg outside the tent..if you use silver ducting the light will reflect off it and still enter the room..

....and do you have a link for duct tubing with a black interior? That's another idea I had, but can't find it with black interior, only exterior and that won't help us.

 

[Madmax]

Im in australia bud and just went to my hyrdro stores here and they have it..google black flexible ducting and heaps should come up bud..it does when i do it....its actually plastic and not foil...the insulated stuff is better as when its plastic it does have pinholes in it where its joined to the wire.i found that out pretty quick.

 

[ninjadip]

....and do you have a link for duct tubing with a black interior? That's another idea I had, but can't find it with black interior, only exterior and that won't help us.

Black exterior is what you want, that's the right stuff.

 

[IamN2pot]

Here is black ducting from AC Infinity (@ACINFINITYINC) and from Spider Farmer (@SpiderFarmerLED). Both are "light proof" and both have silver foil inside. The second picture shows how much light can come through the ducting with a 180* bend in it. I'm having trouble finding duct like this that has a black lining inside. I'm sure that would help with that 180* bend.

I am also working on a proto-type, proof of concept, black out curtain with some extra tent material I have. Hopefully I'll get pictures of it up tomorrow. (hint: it's working!)

 

[Madmax]

Make an S or make a box like this.you lose little inflow from fan but if its decent size you wont notice it too much.pic came out sideways lol

 

[IamN2pot]

OK, I finally made a proto-type of what I would love to see incorperated into grow tents from the manufacturer. It just works! I spent over half an hour sitting inside the tent with 2 set-ups (3, 1 won't work). One with the original outside vent cover on and open at the bottom and the other with just an air filter covering. Both work. The included vent cover had ZERO (0) light coming into the tent. The air filter cover had zero at fan speed #2, but did have minimal light when the exaust fan was on #10 around the base of the inside vent cover. That said, it was no where close to the amount of light needed to read print, the Dr. Bugbee test. Here is a link to that green and black filter. Below is a link to blackout curtain material you will see when I have time to get pictures of how this works in my Spider-Farmer 4x4 tent. (it's harvest day today, pictures later).
Feel free to ask any questions you have and I would certainly invite and urge you to try this for yourself. You can do it with as little as blackout material and clothes pins. I just picked up some new, black and white blackout curtain from here, cheap enough. I'm going to replace the gray and white that is currently in that tent. Stay tuned for more pictures in the coming days...

Making the inside vent cover: taping pieces together, cutting to size and adding LOOP velcro. Note that the cover is in a trapizoid shape with thw bottom being almost 2" wider than the top. When installed, it will form a sort of tunnel for the air to flow through. I'll attach the original outside cover so it will also form an inlet tunnel.

Outside in original condition before any modification for the inlet air tunnel. Inside of tent with HOOK velcro strips installed.

These 2 pictures are of how the intake tunnels are made. By angling in the bottom of the outside cover, it makes that tunnel. The first picture is of the outside before the inside cover was installed, so light is coming out. The second picture is of the inside cover installation with the bottom flap of material behind the floor tray and down to the tent floor.
.

THe first photo is of the completed inside. The outside flap tunnel was installed and I was ready for my first darkness test. That test, at both #2 and #10 fan speeds had zero light coming in. The 2nd picture was a test without any outside cover, just the inside one. With the fan at #2, some light, border line to being able to read print. At #10 speed, nope! I don't think so.

THis next picture shows the air filter material I linked to above. If the hook and loop were reversed, HINT HINT, tent manufacturers, it wouldnt need to be taped on! With the fan on #2, there was zero light. With the fan on #10, there was some very faint light I could detect when I looked down behind the floor tray, but it was not even close to the amount needed to read print. It was just barely visable to my eye.
THe last picture is of the inside of the tent with the exaust fan on #10. I knew the tent sides colapse under negitive air pressure, but this was the first time I measured it from inside. The walls at the narrowest point were only 17" apart. Maybe negitive pressure side poles should be standard equiptment. From 24" down to 17", that's rediculas!!!!
Maybe it's time to redesign our grow tents???, 'cause I'm just getting started good.
Up next, those round duct opening. I can't believe no one has made air/light filters specifically designed to pop into those holes????

Keepin' it SIMPLE! N2

 

[Ponky]

I use a section of duct. And I run it into a charcoal filter. It arrests the light tunneling. Works just fine.

 

[steamroller]

I have used sponges to block light and allow air flow.

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The 2" waffle would work for most. I use flat 2"
I even roll them up and use in the round holes...

 

[IamN2pot]

I use a section of duct. And I run it into a charcoal filter. It arrests the light tunneling. Works just fine.

That charcoal filter with a push fan is likely the best setup one can build. Doesn't do much with those 'lovely' screened vents. That my peeve. It would be so easy to use the vents and keep light out IF the manufacturers would just reverse the hooks and loops velcro. I know, fat chance. But if you don't ask.....

 

[IamN2pot]

I have used sponges to block light and allow air flow.

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Poret® Foam by SwissTropicals US and Canadian customers, see terms for shipping rates. For all other countries, please, Email me first to receive a shipping quote for your order. Poret® Foam is a brand product made by our partner EMW® Filtertechnik GmbH in Diez, Germany. SwissTropicals, LLC is...

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The 2" waffle would work for most. I use flat 2"
I even roll them up and use in the round holes...

That is one of the solutions I wanted to explore. Do you use the 20PPI, 30PPI or 45PPI sponge/foam?

It's to bad no one makes a 6" plastic ring carrier thing one could put a precut foam filter in and pop it into 6" ports. Pull the draw strings tight and call it good. I'm thinking that foam would also work well as a light and air filter to cover those screened air vents with, if you can figure out how to get them to stick.