An Improvised PVC Bulkhead Fitting for Liquid Storage Tanks/stolen link

  • Thread starter fido
  • Start date
  • Tagged users None
F

fido

126
18
this is not my idea/not trying to claim it as such.
just saw it a figured if it works
it could save the mbp community some bread.
if its a bad idea in the article
sorry
i was only trying to be helpful....



http://www.truetex.com/bulkhead.htm

the link^^^^
again-its not me. i'm not trying to claim it
but it just looks good to my newbie eyes.
wanted to see what u cats y kittens think about it.

also if anyone knows how to embed the linked webpage
can u help a brotha out and bring it here so that folks dont have to click the link? i dont know how.
that would be great/thanks in advance
fido
 
E

ehole

106
18
that's essentially what i used in my under current knock off i made... and definately what i use in my ebb & flow buckets. i've yet to have a leak yet in either system. so i'll co-sign it working lol.
also i've only gone up to 2" holes but i've used o-rings not the gaskets
 
M

Mazda-yasni

10
0
nice thread.. just remember the bigger the buckets the bigger the res.. I had to buy a 95 gal drum to feed my 24 buckets pluss they need topped ever 4 days..in my situation..
 
F

fido

126
18
An Improvised PVC Bulkhead Fitting for Liquid Storage Tanks

Rugged
Compatible with and Inert to Most Chemicals
Impervious to Weather
Made from Common Hardware
Very Inexpensive

A "bulkhead fitting" is an unusual item of plumbing designed to pass a connection through the sealed wall of a vessel. While there are a lot of household and industrial applications for them, you won't find bulkhead fittings at Home Depot. Speciality sources on the Web want $10 or $20 for what should cost pennies. I will show you below how you can easily and inexpensively improvise PVC bulkhead fittings from common parts from the hardware store.

This example shows the construction of a 1-1/2" PVC pipe bulkhead fitting, which will be installed on the side of a 44-gallon vessel. Smaller sizes down to 1/2" can be made in the same way.

The essential item in constructing a bulkhead fitting is a male-female pair of straight-threaded adapters, which can tighten to form a clamp on both sides of the vessel wall. Since all threaded adapters in ordinary plumbing use tapered threads ("NPT", an abbreviation for American National Standard Taper Pipe Threads), plumbing fittings will not work. However, PVC electrical conduit fittings use straight, not tapered, threads, while the electrical conduit adapters use standard plumbing pipe sizes for glued joints. The PVC material is the same for plumbing or conduit, and as chemically versatile, just being colored gray in the case of the electrical items.

In short, plastic electrical conduit fittings are the secret ingredient to improvising a bulkhead fitting.

The necessary components are shown in the photo, from left to right: the 1-1/2" PVC male and female electrical conduit adapters, a 1-1/2" Fernco rubber pipe cap, a Buna-N rubber drain gasket (sold as an item of bathtub drain hardware), a 1-7/8" Forstner drill bit (which is just a bit smaller than the outside of the conduit fitting threads), and a short stub piece of 1-1/2" PVC pipe. We will use the pipe stub and rubber cap to make this bulkhead fitting into a drain.
bulkhead1.jpg

bulkhead2.jpg
For a vessel, we will use nothing more than a Rubbermaid Brute polyethylene drum, another "secret ingredient", which makes an excellent liquid storage tank, but is disguised as a trash can at the store. The polyethylene material is compatible with many difficult solutions like caustics and acids. The "Brute" brand is quite sturdy, having been designed to take curbside abuse. If you were to purchase a polyethylene chemical tank of that size from a plastics or laboratory equipment supplier, you would pay many $100s, not to mention an unwieldly shipment problem. Instead we'll use the Rubbermaid item, readily available at hardware stores like Home Depot or Lowes, and priced at about $25 for the 32-gallon size. The PVC fittings and gasket are only a few dollars more.

The photo shows the bottom of the tub drilled with the 1-7/8" Forstner bit to receive the 1-1/2" nominal size (about 1.9" actual thread outside diameter) threaded fitting. The plastic is soft enough that if you did not have this bit, you could mark the circle on the tub and cut it out with a razor knife, perhaps rounding out with a file. The fit should be close between the hole and the threaded fittings, but does not have to be exact; the rubber gasket will be supplying the actual seal.

Notice in the photo on the right side of the tank, you can see a smaller 1/2" version of this bulkhead fitting I previously installed, with an elbow and 1/4" polyethylene tubing connected. This tubing delivers the liquid stored in the tank to a Pulsafeeder injection pump (covered by an inverted white bucket), which then injects the liquid under high pressure into the swimming pool main circulation line. This tank had been in use in this application for some years, which is why it shows some white residue.

An optional improvement shown here is to trim the inside-the-tank half of the fitting shorter, removing the pipe adapter portion that will not be used. I used a lathe to do a neat job, but you could get by with a hacksaw and file.
bulkhead3.jpg


The outside of the assembly is simply the female-threaded adapter with the pipe glued into it.
bulkhead4.jpg



bulkhead5.jpg
Here are the finished components, ready to be assembled. From left to right: rubber cap, outside half, rubber gasket ring, and (trimmed) inside half.

Instead of the bathtub-drain item, a gasket could be hand-cut from a sheet of gasket material available as a plumbing item. A large O-ring from the plumbing or auto parts store is another possibility, although it would tend to distort since it is not captured in a proper O-ring groove.
bulkhead6.jpg

Here is the bulkhead fitting assembled on the hole at the bottom of the tank. The rubber gasket should go on the outside, between the outside wall of the vessel and the female fitting. (If the gasket were on the inside, the mated threads would be exposed to the liquid under pressure; and the threads, being straight, do not seal.) Putting the gasket on the outside also exposes less of it to contact with the tank contents.

bulkhead7.jpg
Here's the finished tank and drain ready for service. This will be holding diluted liquid chlorinator for my swimming pool; the bulkhead drain fitting will allow the tank to be emptied and rinsed out as is occasionally needed. The rubber cap is secured with a stainless hose clamp, which is not shown in this photo. On the other side of the tank, also not shown, is a 1/2 inch version of the same type of improvised fitting, which connects the liquid chlorinator supply to the intake of an injection pump for my computer-controlled pool chemistry.

What standard sizes are available? Standard PVC electrical conduit sizes range from 1/2 inch to 6 inches in Schedule 40 (lighter) and Schedule 80 (heavier) thicknesses. However Home Depot and Lowes only seem to carry up to 2 inch sizes. These smaller size increments are 1/2, 3/4, 1, 1-1/4, 1-1/2, and 2 inches.

Sources for Ready-Made Bulkhead Fittings

A ready-made bulkhead fitting you can find in boat stores is a "thru-hull" (through-hull) fitting, which is used to discharge a boat's bilge pump output hose through the hull above the water line. Standard bilge pump line is 3/4" inside diameter plastic hose, and one side of the thru-hull fitting will have a barbed connector for such hose. The other side of the fitting will be unconnected, more or less flush with the outside of the hull. An example is the "Bilge pump plumbing kit" made by SeaSense Marine Accessories, described here, part number 50002344, UPC 737765023448; this particular item requires a 1 inch diameter hole in the bulkhead for the threaded portion of the fitting. This item, or others like it, is sold through retailers like Boater's World, West Marine, Bass Pro Shops, and WalMart.

Have a comment or question about my bulkhead fitting?
Email me at:
[email protected]
Richard J. Kinch
Back to Machine Shop page
Back to Home page
 
F

fido

126
18
i just have to figure out how to bring the pictures over.
i wish i knew how to bring the whole page over!

fido
 
F

fido

126
18
remember. i'm not that guy richard.
i did copy his email and include it incase you want to ask that man a question.
dont mention anything about mmj though.
he might not get down like that.....

fido
 
F

fido

126
18
damn. i just saw a ton of these fittings at a auction house this week.
im gonna go back and see whats up.
i didnt know what the heck they were.
 
E

ehole

106
18
so this is my use for 2" versions... never ever leaked with just silicon o-rings.

seriously i love this thread. a very similar thread years ago prompted me in going hydro. plus i can go to any hardware store for these fittings. build on :)
 
100 0948
100 0954
100 0956
100 0955
100 0958
F

fido

126
18
so this is my use for 2" versions... never ever leaked with just silicon o-rings.

seriously i love this thread. a very similar thread years ago prompted me in going hydro. plus i can go to any hardware store for these fittings. build on :)

really neat!
love what you made homie!
fido
 
aleYarok

aleYarok

687
28
good info in this thread, had been looking around all day for bulkheads no hydro or homedepot/lowes had right sizes
off to depot again tomorrow morning!
 
L

Lost

2,969
38
Make sure to plus rep fido on this post. Its such basic info never posted :)
 
j wizzle

j wizzle

627
43
uniseals are not the way IMO. they will eventually leak and if you move buckets, they can get damaged fairly easily. i use this same method for all my 5 gal buckets, its just a simple male/female pvc adapter with o rings. works much better than uniseals. im actually going to redo my under current with these this week. if you get a leak, all you have to do is tighten or loosen the adapters. with uniseals, leaks are a bitch to fix
 
Top Bottom