Anyone Have Experience W/ 10000k 1000w Mh Bulbs?

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Jimster

Jimster

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I was perusing the wish list catalogs and came across a 1000 watt metal halide light bulb with a 10000k color rating. I know this is way above my Eye Blue Hortilux and typical MS1000's (Usually between 4000k - 7000k). The price wasn't too bad but it didn't indicate if it was pulse start or magnetic, like me. I had a bulb a few grows ago that was pretty blue overall, but I can't remember the mfg or the color rating...but it was notably blue with decent yields, but I never really followed up any more.
So, the question is...has anyone used lights this high in color temp or higher and how have things worked out for you? I still haven't quite made the PAR spectrum and how it interacts with the color temp connection, although the relationship between the PAR values for different chlorophylls and various wavelength of light is pretty straightforward. I could never put the color temp and the spectrum output together in my mind, other than the higher the temp, the blu-er things are...and vice versa. Just a mental block type of thing.
 
Monster762

Monster762

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I was perusing the wish list catalogs and came across a 1000 watt metal halide light bulb with a 10000k color rating. I know this is way above my Eye Blue Hortilux and typical MS1000's (Usually between 4000k - 7000k). The price wasn't too bad but it didn't indicate if it was pulse start or magnetic, like me. I had a bulb a few grows ago that was pretty blue overall, but I can't remember the mfg or the color rating...but it was notably blue with decent yields, but I never really followed up any more.
So, the question is...has anyone used lights this high in color temp or higher and how have things worked out for you? I still haven't quite made the PAR spectrum and how it interacts with the color temp connection, although the relationship between the PAR values for different chlorophylls and various wavelength of light is pretty straightforward. I could never put the color temp and the spectrum output together in my mind, other than the higher the temp, the blu-er things are...and vice versa. Just a mental block type of thing.
First I will say I have not used a 1000w 10000k halide
But I do have 10000k bulbs for 4 ft t5.
The 10000k is intense. All my reading lead to 1 of 8 bulbs being swapped only Mid flower.
Too much 10000k will hurt plant according to my reading but a little 10000k will boost your trich production to defend from the light. But too much it’ll fry em.
 
oldskol4evr

oldskol4evr

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First I will say I have not used a 1000w 10000k halide
But I do have 10000k bulbs for 4 ft t5.
The 10000k is intense. All my reading lead to 1 of 8 bulbs being swapped only Mid flower.
Too much 10000k will hurt plant according to my reading but a little 10000k will boost your trich production to defend from the light. But too much it’ll fry em.
very correct,i did same thing with my t5,i got a 16 bulb fixture,i toasted a whole grow overnight with it,i had red bulbs veg bulbs and 2 uv b bulbs,yep by morning all i had to do is walk in the room and get high from second hand smoke,lmao
 
jumpincactus

jumpincactus

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I was perusing the wish list catalogs and came across a 1000 watt metal halide light bulb with a 10000k color rating. I know this is way above my Eye Blue Hortilux and typical MS1000's (Usually between 4000k - 7000k). The price wasn't too bad but it didn't indicate if it was pulse start or magnetic, like me. I had a bulb a few grows ago that was pretty blue overall, but I can't remember the mfg or the color rating...but it was notably blue with decent yields, but I never really followed up any more.
So, the question is...has anyone used lights this high in color temp or higher and how have things worked out for you? I still haven't quite made the PAR spectrum and how it interacts with the color temp connection, although the relationship between the PAR values for different chlorophylls and various wavelength of light is pretty straightforward. I could never put the color temp and the spectrum output together in my mind, other than the higher the temp, the blu-er things are...and vice versa. Just a mental block type of thing.
I use soilsteks 10,000 k finisher bulbs. It is recommended to use only last 2 weeks of flower production. I haven't done any side by sides however they do seem to bring on higher frost levels with increased terp profiles. UV levels are higher as they use low iron glass enclosures for the bulb. For some strains the use did seem to allow for more rapid ripening as well. To the tune of a week to 10 day early finishing of same strain and cuts. The high cri rating also gives a better rendition while scouting for maladies/pests and trichome readiness.

The 10K Metal Halide is a pulse-start lamp used for the last 7 – 14 days of bloom to allow better ripening and finishing.

Featuring Low Iron (Low-E) glass for enhanced UV penetration to your plants for higher quality and yield.

SolisTek High Frequency MH offers:

-Color Enhanced Full Balanced Spectrum
-Less depreciation of PAR and lumen output over time.
-Precise Gas Combination for Increased Blues, Reds & UV
-True High Frequency Technology & Proper UV Balance
-Advanced HID Lamp Design for Prolonged Lamp Life
-Designed for Commercial Applications
-Made for Quality, Consistency & Yield

Specifications for Metal Halide (hot restart: 10-15 min):

WATTAGE LUMENS COLOR CRI ANSI
1000W 107,000 10,000 96 M141/E
SolisTek Lamps contain enhanced UV Spectra. Exercise caution when working around any HID lamp that contains UV, always wear protective lenses.
 
Jimster

Jimster

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I'm a little confused. Typically the enhanced blues are used in the Vegging growth stage, not the flowering stage, which traditionally uses more reds. I figured the 10K would be better for veg growth, since 6-7K lights are used mainly for that. The other confusion is why you would add Blues during flowering, since, in nature, the blues are usually diminishing when the photoperiod decreases, causing more reds and less blue and UV.
Regarding the plants getting fried overnight...it is probably from the UV component. Plants get sunburned if you move from inside to full sun outside. The "enhanced UV" might have been the culprit unless you used it from the start. I killed a bunch of plants that were started indoors and moved outdoors without getting them used to the UV under the sun. Fried in a day. If the 10K bulbs pass that much UV, then it would be a disaster swapping one out mid run. All HID bulbs produce UV, which is what the outer enclosure is supposed to screen out. If it is a special glass, it could get pretty toasty, similar to running a metal halide without the enclosure (NOT encouraged!). Thanks for the info!
 
The Jewels

The Jewels

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Here is my take .
CRI is just for humans, the unit is just a ratio of daylight rendering accuracy .

The enhanced blues are said to take advantage of the uptake bump around 500nm . Chlorophyll A will hit down to 400nm . Promoting structure and shoots .

The deep blues dip lower still on the spectrum and that is where the ultraV. lives .

Fwiw I am vegging under 13k 400W .I am not experienced enough with cannabis to make comparisons . 7200k is my fav. aquarium plant lamp . It would grow plants underwater so thick the fish were squished up against the glass .
My hydro journal needs updating, it is on the 13k atm. I have mainlinetopped it 3 times and it comes back like dandelions .
Early in my hobbit hole journal shows them blowing up, when transitioned from the 6500k 4X54w t5ho ( 250ppfd) to the 400w 13k mh
 
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