Auto not flowering after 50 days?

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AmateurGrower

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This is a Blimburn Seeds Green Crack Auto that isn't showing any signs of flowering after 50 days of veg. Seems otherwise healthy. I DID lollypop bottom growth off maybe 3 different times. There are alternating nodes, so I know it's sexually mature.

Am I too impatient? I also have a Durban Poison Auto germed the exact same day and she has maybe another 3 weeks before chop.

I know there's not a ton of auto growers on here so I'll appreciate any advice I can get.
 
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AmateurGrower

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it's not unusual to get photoperiod instead of automatic. switch to 12/12
Problem is, I've got a Durban Poison and Wedding Cake that ARE really autos and they are flowering their asses off, so I can't really switch
 
JIMKSI64

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Captspaulding

Captspaulding

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@JIMKSI64


That dude is onto something.
Best gitchusum that there knowledge bomb.
 
HerbalEdu

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Problem is, I've got a Durban Poison and Wedding Cake that ARE really autos and they are flowering their asses off, so I can't really switch
yeah what JIMKSI64 said, auto grow just fine under 12/12 what's important at the end of the day is DLI.

i have had auto mixed with some photo a few time, never noticed a signifiant difference in growth.
 
Captspaulding

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yeah what JIMKSI64 said, auto grow just fine under 12/12 what's important at the end of the day is DLI.

i have had auto mixed with some photo a few time, never noticed a signifiant difference in growth.

Yeah man, it is what it is with the way the autos are unless they’re bread to be low flyers. They’ll get a decent size even at 12:12.
There’s times when I used to really buy a lot of beans from seed banks where they would accidentally send Auto‘s instead of photos and I would inevitably end up with a batch of mixed in a crop and I’ll tell you what Auto‘s were never gonna be dictating what my lighting schedules were gonna be for any of my photos.
The thing is with Auto the way that the genetic works just because your lights are out. Doesn’t mean that the plant is gonna stop budding it’s genetically pre-disposition to flower 24 hours a day once it actually gets to that point regardless of your light schedule in my opinion bulking and Auto is about what you feed it and how you feed it in conjunction with your schedule
 
HerbalEdu

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the thing is plant accumulate sugar during the day from photosynthesis, then at night the plant use those sugar to sustain growth without photosynthesis, with proper DLI the plant will accumulate enough sugar to sustain growth whole or most of night time.
 
AmateurGrower

AmateurGrower

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Not true. You can run an auto on a 12-12 schedule. You will have to adjust the lights up to compensate for the reduced hours. Shoot for 36-38 DLI if the plants can use it.
And not all at once.
Would 3 reduced yield equal 2 good yields?
Ok, I'm going down another rabbit hole here, as I get introduced to Daily light integral! After y'all comments I've begun reading about DLI and will continue to read about it. But here's what I'm thinking, and I would appreciate it if you would EILI5.

I have a Durban Poison auto and Wedding Cake auto and they are both flowering. The DP is in its final stage, maybe 3 or 4 weeks max to go before harvest. I am having trouble understanding how cutting the lights back from the current 18 hours to 12 hours won't negatively affect its final yield. I wouldn't want to have a negative impact on my 2 flowering autos just to get the photo to begin flowering.

@JIMKSI64, what do you mean when you say adjust the lights up to compensate for reduced hours?

I do appreciate all y'alls comments and promise that I'll do my reading on DLI and not just depend on y'all for all my knowledge. Just having a hard time understanding how reducing the light hours won't hurt my yeild on my flowering plants. You guys are the best!


D
 
JIMKSI64

JIMKSI64

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Dude welcome to the farm where the learning never stops.
My plan was to run my autos the same specs as my photo grow. As soon as so got up to 45k I saw the negatives start up and this was in flower for the older plants. I run my photos at 65k lux during flower which equates to 40 DLI for 12 hours after conversion. My autos at 45k for 18 hours were at 43 DLI, out of the max for DLI and the biggest part is that by 6pm they were curling and tacoing.
By adjusting my lights down to 40k max the issues stopped and by raising the lights at a faster rate that I had been the second set of autos has taken off
So conversions of my 3500k panels gives me max 920ppfd for photos and about 600 ppfd for autos, well under the respected DLI targets for cannabis .
At 45k I was not at cannabis saturation levels which are about 75k without CO2. I was over the maximum recommended energy level for 24 hours. This impacted my plants.
To run an auto in 12-12 that has been on 18- 6 is a bit of guesswork. You will have to increase the light energy to equal the daily energy level you had at 18 hours for 12 hours. I would go right to 45k as the plants never had a problem before 6pm and go up until the plant says thank you sir. I shoot for painted nails😎
 
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JIMKSI64

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Paint them nails. This shows yellow tips WITH NO CURLING. As long as the leafs are stable and upright this indicated a balance of lights and nutrition.
IMG 20250619 145301390 HDR2
 
JIMKSI64

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Ok one more thing.
If you do not want to risk it don't
Just keep the plant in veg until the tent is clear. But then you have one plant in a tent with photo numbers and you have more autos to grow right? So now you have no choice and will need to run that plant for 7-10 weeks at 12 -12 and now you have say 3 more autos at 12-12?
It's a pickle for sure🥒
 
AmateurGrower

AmateurGrower

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Brother, you are correct when you say the learning never stops! You and most everyone else who comments on my posts know so much more about this plant than I can ever hope to know, but I'm not giving up!

A little backstory about me and growing that will hopefully provide a little humor to start the weekend. I didn't plan on growing indoors this year. I don't really have a good setup for indoors and have 4 photos currently going outside. But I live in zone 7b, Southeast US and am just now really understanding the challenges involved in growing where it rains a lot, gets to 100 degrees some and the humidity regularly sits at 60 to 90 %. So, I figured I'd grow a few autos inside just to get something to smoke relatively quickly, compared to photos.

I'm using a rig I've had for probably 25 years. Here's where you'll get a good laugh-it's a 400-watt metal halide/high pressure sodium light system. Hot as hell and sucks down electricity! I wonder how many people still use non-LED lights besides me?

Anyway, just thought I'd hopefully give y'all a little chuckle. I ain't smart but I am persistent! I hope everyone has a great weekend!

D
 
JIMKSI64

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I actually bought my autos to throw outdoors until I looked up my area temp and humidity averages. I also have an issue with very close agriculture. About 600 meters away but in the prevailing wind path is a guy who never rotates and grows soybeans.
Unfortunatly with this weather about every 3rd year late season rains beginning of August drowns his field and then the beans go to a slurry that sends evil pathogens everywhere. Mold and bean blight.
 
Captspaulding

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Paint them nails. This shows yellow tips WITH NO CURLING. As long as the leafs are stable and upright this indicated a balance of lights and nutrition.View attachment 2459545
Horizontal leaves is the name of the game if you have a horizontal leaf on all your plants then you know your golden
 
HerbalEdu

HerbalEdu

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I don't really have a good setup for indoors and have 4 photos currently going outside. But I live in zone 7b, Southeast US and am just now really understanding the challenges involved in growing where it rains a lot, gets to 100 degrees some and the humidity regularly sits at 60 to 90 %. So, I figured I'd grow a few autos inside just to get something to smoke relatively quickly, compared to photos.
If you don't want to flower your photoperiod indoor, and don't want to switch them to 12/12 , then you have another extra plant for outdoor.
 

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