Autoflowers heavily stunted by heat?

[professorchaos]

This is my second round with ILGM's northern lights autoflower. The first grow log went rather well despite a few cold weather dips that slowed the growth. I vegged them in a tent until the flowering stage, then moved them outside and they legit exploded. Got about 120 grams out of 2 plants which isn't bad. Especially for an autoflower.

I started 3 new ones and planted them in the same mixture of promix hp/coco/peat/perlite. 3 gallon pots for all 3 plants. I've had awesome success with this mix with other plants. Always fed the plants a known dose of nutrients from cultured biologix. Kept the water at a pH range of 6.0 to 6.7. I sprouted them in the tent until 2 sets of leaves formed. I moved them outside to complete their growing and flowering. There is about 14 hours of light right now here and it's intense. I have some photoperiods going that are just loving it and growing fast.

Well, I do believe the heat stunted the hell out of them. Here are two of the plants in week 3. They are def runts and already going into flower. The weather (Southern US) is hot with an avg temp of 32 C (90 F) and about 50% humidity. I'm half tempted to simply spray them now with colloidal silver to turn them into pollen generators and then yank them. Pretty annoying.

Anyone care to comment on my theory that it was heat? I did a table to compare the situation with other plants and can't come up with anything else. The photoperiods I have growing were sprouted the same time. 2 durban poisons and 2 amnesia lemons. All 4 are into their 5th node and topped. All plants have the same soil, same watering schedule, and same nutrients.

 

[Moshmen]

Don’t know where ur at ? But I’m in southern us and any auto I’ve ran outside has been small ? Could be heat, light, humidy, anything really plus no disrespect but u start with ilgm bird seed. Doubt you get 2 zips off those ? Anything is possible tough

 

[Moshmen]

Also u say you have good luck with your soil mix but it doesn’t add up promix and coco require 2 different grow techniques and typically don’t mix well and cause nute issues

 

[Moshmen]

Lastly the three fingered leaves tells me that they have been under stress there entire life? From the mix? Or environment?

why u move outside ? What light ya got

 

[crimsonecho]

ruderalis genetics is usually from cold regions and there may be a correlation between heat and shitty performance from autos. not an auto guy though.

anyway dont mess with cs just go with sts and youre gonna have balls in 15 days and seeds in 4-5 weeks after that.

 

[Moshmen]

ruderalis genetics is usually from cold regions and there may be a correlation between heat and shitty performance from autos. not an auto guy though.

anyway dont mess with cs just go with sts and youre gonna have balls in 15 days and seeds in 4-5 weeks after that.

I’m add to this - sts def way to go but I wouldn’t waste it /use it on those crappy genetics you started with - find good genetics to start with then u will be happy with the end result

 

[crimsonecho]

I’m add to this - sts def way to go but I wouldn’t waste it /use it on those crappy genetics you started with - find good genetics to start with then u will be happy with the end result

if he pulled 120 from 2 before not bad genetics per se but would i even wait 7 weeks to get auto seeds? no. autos are something i inherently dont favor. you cant clone the mfers so whats the point you can find absolute incredible beautiful dank and its gone forever :)

 

[Moshmen]

if he pulled 120 from 2 before not bad genetics per se but would i even wait 7 weeks to get auto seeds? no. autos are something i inherently dont favor. you cant clone the mfers so whats the point you can find absolute incredible beautiful dank and its gone forever :)

I just fill space with em now for that very reason any fuck up and she suffers forever , no many what like ya said that plant gone! There’s only one.
with good genes 4 zips a plant possible all day long ! Imo -

 

[professorchaos]

if he pulled 120 from 2 before not bad genetics per se but would i even wait 7 weeks to get auto seeds? no. autos are something i inherently dont favor. you cant clone the mfers so whats the point you can find absolute incredible beautiful dank and its gone forever :)

The genetics are fine. This particular plant simply likes to veg in more ideal conditions and this grow log shows it. Sure, ILGM is notorious for having white label seeds and I have experienced that first hand. This cultivar isn't bad at all. The first grow log produced amazing flower. Even the trim smoked damn well.

I made a ton of colloidal silver and want to test it out. If it doesn't work well........it doesn't work. These plants are a wash anyways so no point not putting them to an experiment in testing the colloidal silver.

 

[professorchaos]

Also u say you have good luck with your soil mix but it doesn’t add up promix and coco require 2 different grow techniques and typically don’t mix well and cause nute issues

I blend them. Coco is a common soil amendment. I have had zero nutrient issues. The photoperiods, tomatoes, chili peppers, and other plants I have going are loving the composition.

 

[crimsonecho]

The genetics are fine. This particular plant simply likes to veg in more ideal conditions and this grow log shows it. Sure, ILGM is notorious for having white label seeds and I have experienced that first hand. This cultivar isn't bad at all. The first grow log produced amazing flower. Even the trim smoked damn well.

I made a ton of colloidal silver and want to test it out. If it doesn't work well........it doesn't work. These plants are a wash anyways so no point not putting them to an experiment in testing the colloidal silver.

it’ll work but its just too much work you have to spray it every day multiple times and you shouldnt do it under lights because silver oxidizes so has to be fairly dark. never ordered from ilgm so i wouldnt know about their genetics but i’ll take you word for it

 

[TSD]

You said you topped autos and are growing them outside? I'd say that would be the expected outcome of that combo of techniques.

 

[professorchaos]

You said you topped autos and are growing them outside? I'd say that would be the expected outcome of that combo of techniques.

The photoperiod plants get topped. I don't top the autoflowers. Just LST.

 

[TSD]

The photoperiod plants get topped. I don't top the autoflowers. Just LST.

Ok gotcha... anyone I've known that has attempted autos outside has has ended up with tiny plants, they just don't get enough hours of light to veg out before they start to bud.

 

[professorchaos]

Ok gotcha... anyone I've known that has attempted autos outside has has ended up with tiny plants, they just don't get enough hours of light to veg out before they start to bud.

Last outdoor grow cycle went well really beyond a pesky animal issue. I had 3 autos going but a raccoon got a hold of one of the plants. Damn trash panda. The yield from the remaining 2 was great. Zero issues out of the two. I figured it was heat this time as the first grow was in cooler temps. I've been told ILGM genetics can be all over the place and I sprouted some runts. I can't say for certain as I don't have any other ILGM seeds to compare. These were gifted to me so not really a total loss as they are free seeds. Still, kind of annoying to put in effort and get "eh" results.

 

[N1ghtL1ght]

Still, kind of annoying to put in effort and get "eh" results.

and this is why you do photoperiodics.
phenorun / (or cut) >> keeper = results as expected or improves each run

 

[AZsunfarmer]

From my personal experience you absolutely have to start them outside in their final resting place, they just don’t have time to adapt to the shock of moving outside. Shade the crap out of them until you get some leaves and deep roots. Also, 3 gal bags don’t work. They get too hot and roots stay in a tight ball and you get a small plant. This year got me because it’s 90’s and now 100 today in fucking April, this is very above norm this early. I have 3 of these hazes that I staggered the sprouting early/mid/late March and they are fine in the heat. They are smaller than normal because the short light cycle In March but that was a calculated decision because I had a feeling there would be no spring for us this year. Straight from winter to summer. Pretty happy doing all organic tho. I have 2 photos outside in ground too and they don’t give a fuck about the heat. Good luck man, outside growing is always an adventure for us in the southwest.

 

[professorchaos]

From my personal experience you absolutely have to start them outside in their final resting place, they just don’t have time to adapt to the shock of moving outside. Shade the crap out of them until you get some leaves and deep roots. Also, 3 gal bags don’t work. They get too hot and roots stay in a tight ball and you get a small plant. This year got me because it’s 90’s and now 100 today in fucking April, this is very above norm this early. I have 3 of these hazes that I staggered the sprouting early/mid/late March and they are fine in the heat. They are smaller than normal because the short light cycle In March but that was a calculated decision because I had a feeling there would be no spring for us this year. Straight from winter to summer. Pretty happy doing all organic tho. I have 2 photos outside in ground too and they don’t give a fuck about the heat. Good luck man, outside growing is always an adventure for us in the southwest.

Good to know bro. Thanks for the info!

 

[N1ghtL1ght]

Autos are usually grown under a long light regiment, and depending on how many generations your genetics spent in the breeders tent they may be adapted to 18/6 or 20/4. Usually that also means a reduction in PPFD to arrive at the same DLI, when, frankly, ruderalis originally stems from a northern region that doesnt have so long days, plus the sun is lower in the sky = lower PPFD (& temps) as well.
The foreposters are very right, when a new leaf grows it adapts right to the level of irradiance it's grown into, and one way to do so is by the number of chloroplasts it differentiates. Typically an outdoor leaf has way less of these because the sun is really harsh in comparison to indoor light. An indoor leaf won't allow to transmit in as much rays which, when placed outside, means a heavier heat generation, and this can lead to stress - photooxidation. It's usually repaired in the night, but at the expense of energy, then missing in the growth of other structures.

 

[professorchaos]

Autos are usually grown under a long light regiment, and depending on how many generations your genetics spent in the breeders tent they may be adapted to 18/6 or 20/4. Usually that also means a reduction in PPFD to arrive at the same DLI, when, frankly, ruderalis originally stems from a northern region that doesnt have so long days, plus the sun is lower in the sky = lower PPFD (& temps) as well.
The foreposters are very right, when a new leaf grows it adapts right to the level of irradiance it's grown into, and one way to do so is by the number of chloroplasts it differentiates. Typically an outdoor leaf has way less of these because the sun is really harsh in comparison to indoor light. An indoor leaf won't allow to transmit in as much rays which, when placed outside, means a heavier heat generation, and this can lead to stress - photooxidation. It's usually repaired in the night, but at the expense of energy, then missing in the growth of other structures.

Now this is what I was looking for. Makes total sense.