Best DWC System And Why?

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AZreefer

AZreefer

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I'm not running a chiller, highest my water temps have gotten to is 73 and that's now with my 1000W light on 90%. I'm by no means an expert but from everything I've seen, going past a week is pushing it and asking to running into problems. It's not about what you take out of the water with the filter, or even root rot but about what your plants take out of the water and what they don't. They will not consume each nutrient in there at the same rate, certain nutrients will build up more while others are being eaten and you may build toxic levels of certain nutes and experience lock out. My water changes are no problem at all, I drop a pump in, pump the water out and then pump in new water that's been mixing for atleast 24 hours in my mixing resivor. I hope you prove all the old heads wrong and find out a way to go 2 or 3 weeks with no problems reliably and consistently. Are you using RO or distilled water?
RO/DI. There are a few hydro growers on the farm that don't change the water weekly. I'm not saying I'm going to go through a grow without topping off or even changing the water. But I am saying I will learn how long I can push the water and keep my plants happy. Me thinks more than a week is doable.
 
D

DillyTrying2Learn

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RO/DI. There are a few hydro growers on the farm that don't change the water weekly. I'm not saying I'm going to go through a grow without topping off or even changing the water. But I am saying I will learn how long I can push the water and keep my plants happy. Me thinks more than a week is doable.
More than a week is no doubt doable, but for the average person and set up I think it is probably in their best interests to change weekly to reduce the chance of encountering problems. What you're doing though is how innovation happens. Not dogging you for trying at all.
 
AZreefer

AZreefer

994
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More than a week is no doubt doable, but for the average person and set up I think it is probably in their best interests to change weekly to reduce the chance of encountering problems. What you're doing though is how innovation happens. Not dogging you for trying at all.
Not taken as anything more than an exchange of ideas among friends. I like the back and forth of ideas and I agree 100% with what you just said. The average person and set up. I'm moving my build above the average hobbiest because my understanding of water care is slightly better than average. My build will land out of the realms of average and the amount of time and money I invest in it over the next year will speak to that. I'm very excited. Don't think I won't post my fuck ups. I will.
 
HeadHunterpipes

HeadHunterpipes

325
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Design or buy your hydroponic system according to the strain you plan on growing.
For me its 2 plants per 4x8 tent. 1280 watts of HLG lighting per tent. 20 gallon totes per plant, but next grow it will be 30 to 40 gallon totes.
You should be able to get 1 gram per watt of dried bud minimum. I get about 1.5 grams per watt to 2 grams per watt.
My plants use 4 gallons of water per day per plant or MORE. IMO small reservoirs dont cut it. You want the roots always submerged. Figure out how often you plan checking water? Buy the reservoir to according how often you plan on working the grow room/tent.
this check is refilling the reservoir or completely changing the water and checking to see if you need to add nutrients AND YOU HAVE CHECK PH almost every day depending on your water quality.
Bigger reservoirs are more stable,, less work.

Do you have a RO system or know the water quality where you plan on moving too ?

One of the first signs of a issue is the plant will slow down or stop uptaking water.
You will not know which plant is if you have more then one plant per system.

Runing different strains in the same system can also be a issue. uneven canopy's is a issue.. you want plants to be as matched as possible.
Stay away from slower flowering strains.

There is a big difference of the hydroponic system between indica strains and auto flowering strains.
 
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amneziaHaze

amneziaHaze

941
143
Naw this filter won't pull out the nutes. A carbon filter might reduce your nutes a tad but not the 5 micron mesh filter I'm going to use. Problems will certainly arise along the way! 🤙🏼 The first run I'll be using the canna nutes line and enzyme with hydroguard. In the future I'm adding in a UV filter along with the sediment filter. I also have a few tricks up my sleeve as far as water care and system stability go as I've been fucking with big rdwc systems for a few years. 😉 Just not ones used for this purpose.
Soo hydroguard with live bacteria and uv light to kill them.

I just use some trichoderma and mycos and usually do 1 water change before flower.and sometimes when i get some deficency i cant figure out what it is.but usually its 1 water change whole grow its allways top offs

I did 10L and 70L pots and both work but 10L pot you better know how much she likes to eat because she will drink half of it in a day.70L is harder to notice the ppm change since there is soo much in there.and if you give too much you have to take out nute water its lots of manual labor
 
AZreefer

AZreefer

994
143
Soo hydroguard with live bacteria and uv light to kill them.

I just use some trichoderma and mycos and usually do 1 water change before flower.and sometimes when i get some deficency i cant figure out what it is.but usually its 1 water change whole grow its allways top offs

I did 10L and 70L pots and both work but 10L pot you better know how much she likes to eat because she will drink half of it in a day.70L is harder to notice the ppm change since there is soo much in there.and if you give too much you have to take out nute water its lots of manual labor
No. When the UV light is in play the system is sterile with no enzymes or bacteria. In it's place is a sterilizing solution
 
AZreefer

AZreefer

994
143
Live OR sterile. My first run is going to be live because I do not have my UV light purchased for this run.
 

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