bright yellow lines on lower leafs (+picture)

  • Thread starter country84
  • Start date
  • Tagged users None
C

country84

25
0
hi all
one of my plants has those bright lines, on the top of it's lower leafs..
other leafs are lush green.
someone told me it could be zinc deficiency, but he never saw the plant.
thanks in advance, apologies for the crappy picture!
p.s - all leafs are green except the one marked in red (and the other leafs of it's set). others just looks yellow in the picture, donno why.

1.growing from seed- (greenhouse "sour cream")
2. How old are your plants? 30 days
3. How tall are your plants? about 17 cm
4. What size containers are they planted in? 3 gal
5. What is your soil mix? rich mix soil
6. How often do you water and what type of water do you use? every 2-3 days, mineral water..

8. What kind of fertilizer do you use? bio-bizz (biogrow+bioheaven 1.5mg\ltr each)
9. Do you foliar feed or spray your plants with anything? mineral water mixed with biogrow+bioheaven 0.5mg\ltr each
10. What kind of lights do you use ? 250 hps dual spectrum
11. How close are your lights to the plants? about 12"
12. What size is your grow space in square feet? 2.6x2.1
13. What is the temperature and humidity in your grow space? 80-86f, 60-80%

15. Have you noticed any insect activity in your grow space? no
16. How much experience do you have growing? 1st grow
 
Untitled
Dr. Detroit

Dr. Detroit

229
18
That young and in an already fertilizer-heavy soil you shouldn't be feeding them nutrients at all yet.

Do you pH check at all?
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
23,596
638
I'd like to see more overall pix of the plants before I declare overfeeding. At the outset it appears to be a problem with magnesium--over-feed or deficiency cannot be said at this time.

Stop foliar feeding the plants right now.
 
C

country84

25
0
just realized i accidentally wrote the nutes dosage of my 2.5 weeks older plant, sorry for that. the actual dosage is about half of what i wrote (less then 1 mg\ltr)
anyway here's some more photos.
added photos of my other plant (arjans super haze #2 - the last 2 pics) that has some red stems, and growing very very bushy (the last picture - picture of it's top). any word about that?

it's funny - 3 weeks ago i topped the arjans haze (2 weeks before the sour cream), and used sharp scissors for doing it. only now i can see the new growth (still microscopic) while in the sour cream i just plucked the leaves (5th set), didnt cut 'em, and they are 1.5" already.
 
DSCF0135
DSCF0136
DSCF0137
DSCF0140
DSCF0141
C

country84

25
0
forgot to mention i also have a45w cool white florescent running close to the plants.
 
I

Inhale

36
8
You definitely have neut burn. Some leafs look a bit heat stressed as well. How hot is your chamber? Start flushing with pure RO water until you see the new growth cleaning up. Then start with a 1/4 of the recommended dosage. Move up from there accordingly as the plant grows. Give at least week before upping the dosage.
 
I

Inhale

36
8
forgot to mention i also have a45w cool white florescent running close to the plants.


This is most likely the cause for your heat stress. Throw a osc. fan aimed between the light and the canopy and that should help a bit. Raise the light if you continue to see heat stress.
 
I

Inhale

36
8
On second thought, when I was thinking about it, you might want to hit with some micro nutrients. As someone said about the Zinc deficiency, many micro nutrient deficiencies cause necrotic spots.

Boron, Zinc, Copper and Manganese should all help with the necrotic spots. Once again, try to hit it with some micro nutrients as your line only seems to contain the base nutrients.

Sorry that I did not think of this earlier.
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
23,596
638
His plants don't appear to be burned by lights or nutrients, I have to disagree with those assessments, pretty much entirely.

If nutrient burned the plants would be showing many other signs, and all I see, outside of that one twisted leaf (that girl didn't like the feed pH) is a magnesium problem. Interveinal chlorosis, specifically of the lower leaves, is why I feel that's what it is. It looks like magnesium is being pulled out of older tissues (lower, older leaves) to be used for that new growth, which looks pretty good.

However, if the feeding regimen for older plants is what was given, what's the regimen these plants are getting?

I would do one foliar of just Epsom salt (MgSO4) at 1/4tsp per gallon of water and see what happens. Since they're in soil, I would also do a top-dressing of dolomitic lime.
 
C

country84

25
0
His plants don't appear to be burned by lights or nutrients, I have to disagree with those assessments, pretty much entirely.

If nutrient burned the plants would be showing many other signs, and all I see, outside of that one twisted leaf (that girl didn't like the feed pH) is a magnesium problem. Interveinal chlorosis, specifically of the lower leaves, is why I feel that's what it is. It looks like magnesium is being pulled out of older tissues (lower, older leaves) to be used for that new growth, which looks pretty good.

However, if the feeding regimen for older plants is what was given, what's the regimen these plants are getting?

I would do one foliar of just Epsom salt (MgSO4) at 1/4tsp per gallon of water and see what happens. Since they're in soil, I would also do a top-dressing of dolomitic lime.
ferts were about 0.7 biogrow+bioheaven \ltr each.
i can see that the new growth looks healthy and don't carry the symptoms of the lower leaves. you were saying that the twisted leaves are resolt from unbalanced PH, is it a symptom of high or low levels? i'm kind of remote and can't get a ph tester around here.
also, been searching for Epsom salt on the net and couldn't find it in my country, what other names or brands it got (or what product contain it?)
can you explain about the way i should use dolomitic lime? sorry for the hustle dude.
BTW - by top dressing you mean spraying?
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
23,596
638
Not "unbalanced," out of range. For instance, let's say your White in coco likes her pH closer to 5.8, but for a week or so you give it to her at 6.2, she starts twisting leaves. But the Bubba Kush sister right next to her says, "Naw, mang, gimme whatchoo got, girl" and you see no twisting to the leaves. They're each, to one degree more or less, particular about where pH is landing. Adjust up or down, slightly, see what happens.

If you can't adjust, let alone measure to even know where it's at, then you have no place to start and nowhere to go, so just know that this may be what's happening. You're going to have to learn to go by feel, and with regard to pH that is very difficult.

Off pH can also lock out nutrients, this is one reason why it's a good idea to feed within a pH range and not keep them locked into one pH value all the time.

I have no idea what else Epsom salt could be called elsewhere, the chemical expression is MgSO4 (Magnesium sulfate).

Top-dressing is where you take a small amount of a dry product, prilled (pelleted) dolomite lime in this instance because it provides both calcium and magnesium (see a pattern going on here? Google Mulder's Chart), and then scratch it into the surface of the soil so that it's mixed in and doesn't form a crust or plate when you next water or feed. You want it mixed into the top of the soil, like a dressing, but on top. Top-dressing.
 
C

country84

25
0
thanks, it's now make sense. i'll defiantly try to get a tester (though it'll surely raise some eyebrowses..lol)

so ph should be raised gradually (within the right range) as the plant grow and flower?

another thing.. my 2 'arjans haze's i topped with scissors didn't form new growth,and instead all the other stems were boosted -especially the two top sets of stems, like on steroids. the plant that was plucked( "sour cream") boast with 2 nice main's already. weird.
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
23,596
638
Not so weird, apical growth. Each strain can react very differently from another.

Adjusting pH can't be easily done without knowing where it's at. You need to have a starting point. I can't tell you with any degree of certainty, "You need to bring pH up/down" because neither of us know where it's at. The pH of feed and water must be kept within a range, for instance in soil that good range is 6.5-6.8, though it doesn't hurt (terribly) to go slightly outside those ranges, above or below.
 

Latest posts

Top Bottom