Buchner Funnel Questions?

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gumby420

gumby420

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I grew the material myself. But every once in a while I will process someone else's material for them and it seems like it's harder to get my stuff to come out stable
When you've gotten other people's stuff to come out stable was it a huge difference compared to now or was it like a sappy pull snap consistency?
 
gumby420

gumby420

346
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When you've gotten other people's stuff to come out stable was it a huge difference compared to now or was it like a sappy pull snap consistency?
Also, when you first go to purge, does your slab muffin up and then collapse? Or does it just bubble a lot
 
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ForrestGUMP

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When you've gotten other people's stuff to come out stable was it a huge difference compared to now or was it like a sappy pull snap consistency?
It's actually not much different, snap and pull...just stable enough to use your fingers.
 
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ForrestGUMP

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Ok so I attempted to do a dry sift with 1lb of trim/buds. I had some issues (I think maybe moisture?) I could only get a couple grams to come through the bag. When looked inside the bucked i was shaking, it was like all the keef was clinging to the inside of the bucket. After getting a little frustrated lol, I just mixed what little dry sift I had back in with the material I was shaking (which had a few chunks of dry ice in it). It had pretty much turned to a weed dust. I packed the tube and let it sit on dry ice for about an hour. I blasted like normal and it seemed to be a lot more stable. I'm getting a lot better at flipping it also. It's still not "glass" but it has a nice snap and pull consistency.

Now I'm kindof stuck trying to figure out what I did differently lol. Would grinding it into dust have made a difference? Or could the material have been colder because it was mixed with dry ice when I did the shake? Or maybe because it was a different strain?

Also I just ordered a dewaxing column so its easier to chill the material. I was going to use dry ice and rubbing alcohol to fill the jacket. Does anybody here know if I can use 91% alcohol? Or will it freeze? Is there a proper ratio?

Thanks guys!
 
gumby420

gumby420

346
93
Ok so I attempted to do a dry sift with 1lb of trim/buds. I had some issues (I think maybe moisture?) I could only get a couple grams to come through the bag. When looked inside the bucked i was shaking, it was like all the keef was clinging to the inside of the bucket. After getting a little frustrated lol, I just mixed what little dry sift I had back in with the material I was shaking (which had a few chunks of dry ice in it). It had pretty much turned to a weed dust. I packed the tube and let it sit on dry ice for about an hour. I blasted like normal and it seemed to be a lot more stable. I'm getting a lot better at flipping it also. It's still not "glass" but it has a nice snap and pull consistency.

Now I'm kindof stuck trying to figure out what I did differently lol. Would grinding it into dust have made a difference? Or could the material have been colder because it was mixed with dry ice when I did the shake? Or maybe because it was a different strain?

Also I just ordered a dewaxing column so its easier to chill the material. I was going to use dry ice and rubbing alcohol to fill the jacket. Does anybody here know if I can use 91% alcohol? Or will it freeze? Is there a proper ratio?

Thanks guys!
go to Home Depot and get denatured alcohol and mix that with dry ice. way cheaper and I believe its colder than isopropyl when in a dry ice slurry
 
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ForrestGUMP

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You guys got any recommendations on butane? I just used the last of my whip-it cans, Ive been wanting to switch to the tanks but I don't want to get ripped off lol. I've been paying 200$ for 6 cases (72 420 mL cans). Bestvaluevacs.com is where I was looking at tanks....it's 240$ for 20 lbs of n-butane or 260$ for iso-butane.
 
EugeneOregon

EugeneOregon

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I had the same question.
Coffee filters don't work, and I have trouble buying sized paper rounds.

And any thoughts on how to clean a cintered filter?
The trick is not to let the sintered filter of fritted glass catch the stuff in the first place. Before filtering place an inch or so of an inert sand or sand like product on top of the frit. Then filter through it. I use aluminum oxide which is the "sand" on most sand paper and is very cheap but any kind of fine sand will do. 220 grit works GREAT and aluminum oxide or clean sand are completely human safe unless you get it in your eyes of course. IF you choose to use aluminum oxide and your solvent system you are filtering with is alcohol you can get the bonus of an extremely complete filtration which can even grab green chlorophyls if you prep the extract first by boiling it is an alcohol water mix. I use 70/30 isopropyl alcohol to water ratio (rubbing alcohol off the shelf) and boil the extract in that first before passing it through the funnel with aluminum oxide. It swells the green gunk big time and it gets caught on top of the aluminum oxide then when passed through.

After you pull he stuff through the sand and filter the gunk will be stuck mostly on the sand. It just rinses out then. Acetone then pulled through the funnel when the sand is gone will flush residuals out very nicely.
 
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ForrestGUMP

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Sorry to bump this thread, but can I use a sparkless vacuum pump to pull the solvent through the funnel?
 
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ForrestGUMP

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Sure why couldn't you. A vac pump is a vac pump. One can create a spark, one can't.
Lol good point....it wouldn't need to be very powerful would it? Could you recommend a decent priced one that I could also use for recovery when I upgrade to closed loop?

Thanks!
 
DemonTrich

DemonTrich

6,396
313
Lol

I've been bombarding graywolf with this same exact question the last few days. A good oil free diaphram pump will work. Edward's, welch. From my searching, the high vac ones are 3300 new. Yikes!

I plan on using my robinair 2 stage 5cfm for filtering in bucher funnel, and a welch 1402 for rotovap, and distillation. Graywolf said the 1400 and 1402 will work, but won't pull down to a low enough micron to get a clearer result. End result I'll get is slightly very light amber, not clear.
 
Graywolf

Graywolf

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263
Lol good point....it wouldn't need to be very powerful would it? Could you recommend a decent priced one that I could also use for recovery when I upgrade to closed loop?

Thanks!
A cheap rotary vane pump will work for filtration, but will require regular oil changes due to gear case flooding. Faucet aspirators are the least expensive effective way to achieve filtration.

A diaphram or dry scroll pump are the best and most expensive ways to do so without flooding issues.

There is a difference between a vacuum pump and a BHO recovery pump. A TRS-21 sparkless is probably the cheapest effective way to achieve that. You will also need to add a post pump heat exchanger, which you can make out a 3/8" X 50' coil of stainless tubing in an ice bath.
 
Graywolf

Graywolf

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263
Lol

I've been bombarding graywolf with this same exact question the last few days. A good oil free diaphram pump will work. Edward's, welch. From my searching, the high vac ones are 3300 new. Yikes!

I plan on using my robinair 2 stage 5cfm for filtering in bucher funnel, and a welch 1402 for rotovap, and distillation. Graywolf said the 1400 and 1402 will work, but won't pull down to a low enough micron to get a clearer result. End result I'll get is slightly very light amber, not clear.

To his discredit, Graywolf based his statement on how low the 1400 series will pull, based on rating of 10-3 published on line, but in reviewing Welch's factory ratings, note that they say 10-4, which is good. Our borrowed 1405 didn't pull below 100 microns, but was used, we didn't optimize the connections, and returned it when Pharmer Joe's Edwards dry scroll arrived.

The Welch 1400 series is an old well proven design, but isn't a dry pump and requires regular oil changes to operate at optimum efficiency due to contamination. The discharge is also contaminated with oil vapors.

A deep vacuum is not required for filtration or even for rotovape. In fact a deep vacuum at rotovape will induce "bumping", which are explosive bursts of bubble production.

Deep vacuum is only required for short path. 20 microns and below produce a Clear that has less color, than above, suggesting that the amber color is oxidation related. As an example, look at Eugene's posts show pictures of Clear concentrate produced under low micron levels in a Sublimator.

The diaphragm pumps are dry and adequate for filtration and rotovape. Some are even suitable for BHO recovery on a system designed to operate within their limits. Because diaphrams are flexible, they are limited in how much vacuum or discharge pressure they can operate at, and don't like starting under pressure.

Chem rated diaphragm pumps, or those rated for LPG are typically not inexpensive. We've used the Welch 2052 for rotovapes and ovens, and I've tested larger ones for BHO recovery, all of which worked but non of which were inexpensive.
 
Graywolf

Graywolf

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263
Sorry to bump this thread, but can I use a sparkless vacuum pump to pull the solvent through the funnel?
May I add that a TRS-21 would work for filtration as well, but the piston rings would be running dry and life would ostensibly be short.
 
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ForrestGUMP

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With all the cost of the closed loop upgrade, I'm debating whether to do it or not. Will closed loop benefit my concentrate in anyway?
 
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