When you've gotten other people's stuff to come out stable was it a huge difference compared to now or was it like a sappy pull snap consistency?I grew the material myself. But every once in a while I will process someone else's material for them and it seems like it's harder to get my stuff to come out stable
go to Home Depot and get denatured alcohol and mix that with dry ice. way cheaper and I believe its colder than isopropyl when in a dry ice slurryOk so I attempted to do a dry sift with 1lb of trim/buds. I had some issues (I think maybe moisture?) I could only get a couple grams to come through the bag. When looked inside the bucked i was shaking, it was like all the keef was clinging to the inside of the bucket. After getting a little frustrated lol, I just mixed what little dry sift I had back in with the material I was shaking (which had a few chunks of dry ice in it). It had pretty much turned to a weed dust. I packed the tube and let it sit on dry ice for about an hour. I blasted like normal and it seemed to be a lot more stable. I'm getting a lot better at flipping it also. It's still not "glass" but it has a nice snap and pull consistency.
Now I'm kindof stuck trying to figure out what I did differently lol. Would grinding it into dust have made a difference? Or could the material have been colder because it was mixed with dry ice when I did the shake? Or maybe because it was a different strain?
Also I just ordered a dewaxing column so its easier to chill the material. I was going to use dry ice and rubbing alcohol to fill the jacket. Does anybody here know if I can use 91% alcohol? Or will it freeze? Is there a proper ratio?
The trick is not to let the sintered filter of fritted glass catch the stuff in the first place. Before filtering place an inch or so of an inert sand or sand like product on top of the frit. Then filter through it. I use aluminum oxide which is the "sand" on most sand paper and is very cheap but any kind of fine sand will do. 220 grit works GREAT and aluminum oxide or clean sand are completely human safe unless you get it in your eyes of course. IF you choose to use aluminum oxide and your solvent system you are filtering with is alcohol you can get the bonus of an extremely complete filtration which can even grab green chlorophyls if you prep the extract first by boiling it is an alcohol water mix. I use 70/30 isopropyl alcohol to water ratio (rubbing alcohol off the shelf) and boil the extract in that first before passing it through the funnel with aluminum oxide. It swells the green gunk big time and it gets caught on top of the aluminum oxide then when passed through.I had the same question.
Coffee filters don't work, and I have trouble buying sized paper rounds.
And any thoughts on how to clean a cintered filter?
A cheap rotary vane pump will work for filtration, but will require regular oil changes due to gear case flooding. Faucet aspirators are the least expensive effective way to achieve filtration.Lol good point....it wouldn't need to be very powerful would it? Could you recommend a decent priced one that I could also use for recovery when I upgrade to closed loop?
I've been bombarding graywolf with this same exact question the last few days. A good oil free diaphram pump will work. Edward's, welch. From my searching, the high vac ones are 3300 new. Yikes!
I plan on using my robinair 2 stage 5cfm for filtering in bucher funnel, and a welch 1402 for rotovap, and distillation. Graywolf said the 1400 and 1402 will work, but won't pull down to a low enough micron to get a clearer result. End result I'll get is slightly very light amber, not clear.
Absolutely. For starters you can remove the mystery oil before extracting, and you can finish in Cotton Candy state, which already has low residual solvent.With all the cost of the closed loop upgrade, I'm debating whether to do it or not. Will closed loop benefit my concentrate in anyway?