Bud Candy, Big Bud, Overdrive And Flawless Finish...

  • Thread starter blazeup420
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blazeup420

blazeup420

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So I'm going to run out of vegging room due to having to up pot and be flowering a small plant in a few weeks time. Not expecting much out of it. Would be happy with an Oz. The next one will be better, it's bigger and will be vegged for way longer.
Anyway...
Not even sure if I'll use these as they suffered burn pretty bad recently and i don't want to bring them that pain again... so if I do use these, and you've used these, can you help me out please and shed some light.

Bud candy?,
big bud?
overdrive?
and flawless finish?

How tos and when's. when's and what nots etc? Hehe

My base flower nutrient will be Dutch masters gold one flower.

Also this grow will now be perpetual. Hence why Ive oddly timed new seedlings etc. it wasn't well thought out.
 
xenon730

xenon730

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all that info is available on the advanced website in their feeding chart and on each products page. most people recommend you follow the manufacturers guidelines when using bloom boosters. that said, is there any reason you are choosing those 4 products? they are very expensive without providing extra results for that cost.
 
blazeup420

blazeup420

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Yeh wasn't well thought out and I blew the budget overall anyway so just going with them.

Yeh I've seen that on their site, just recalled that thanks. However with Dutch master I've noticed I can't go more than half strength.
 
Tardbuster

Tardbuster

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The manufacturer wants you to use them late as possible. Thats how they add weight. Contaminating the buds.

Putting a crop grown with Budcandy vs a plant with a natural candy flavor, its laughably obvious how these products work. Just like hair thickening agents. All an illusion to rip people off over looks.

Not even likened to steroids, its like get inflammation and bragging about how "swole" you are.

Stay away from Budcandy unless you want your buds soaked in Budcandy. Really simple. Its glorified BrixPlus. Simple sugars and raspberry scraps soaking into the bud, adding its smell and weight. How nice of AN to bring such nonsense to the table.
 
xenon730

xenon730

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Yeh wasn't well thought out and I blew the budget overall anyway so just going with them.

Yeh I've seen that on their site, just recalled that thanks. However with Dutch master I've noticed I can't go more than half strength.
that's a base npk but you definitely can burn with a bloom booster. the reason to use it at recommended strength is because they contain ingredients to be dosed at that strength for effect. ingredients like kelp extract, amino acids, vitamins, etc.
 
blazeup420

blazeup420

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that's a base npk but you definitely can burn with a bloom booster. the reason to use it at recommended strength is because they contain ingredients to be dosed at that strength for effect. ingredients like kelp extract, amino acids, vitamins, etc.

I was gonna go half strength on everything max I think, better to be safe than burn again
 
xenon730

xenon730

630
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I was gonna go half strength on everything max I think, better to be safe than burn again
i did it the same way and i agree with you doing it that way. as you get comfortable though, try full strength on additives and boosters some time. i also used to do a lot of side by sides with the half dose and the full dose to make my choice. your attitude is a great way to learn.
 
blazeup420

blazeup420

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Thanks man.. yeh I just looked at them again they still have a tiny bit of burn but I've backed off on everything so they should be ok from here on. Just scary when you see the tiniest of burn spread... I feel so bad for these plants they have suffered a fair bit, ie a cold start etc. they are stunted as a result
 
xenon730

xenon730

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honestly cannabis is an amazing plant and near unkillable once it starts vegging. if they're slow, give them the time they need to get past immaturity. as soon as you see it start putting on height it will blow you away with how resilient it is. you can pretty much do anything but physically pull it apart once it's in that stage lol. are you using a ppm meter? if you keep your ppm to certain ranges you'll never burn past maybe yellow tips. some people burn to yellow tips on purpose. i have used those products, i don't currently(i do coco with salts and organic water only) but i still work with them on a daily basis in other people's gardens.
 
blazeup420

blazeup420

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Nah I use the ph meter but I have ppm too. I will check both. What's a good range for that I've done some research before I found

PPM info

  • Tap water: 400ppm or below; 400 is high for tap water.
  • Nutrient Water: 400ppm - 800ppm total
I originally checked tap water and it was 250 I checked at the light nute stages but not later, I should pick it up again i think but I don't well enough understand it yet.

Also I've just been researching temperatures and mine has been exceeding the ideal so I've switched one light off which I don't think will make a huge difference. But temp wise it will bring it to ideal. I think...
 
xenon730

xenon730

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i generally don't worry about temperature if it's 70-90 indoors and outdoors i just watch. ppm i keep anywhere from 600-1000. for flowering anything between 800-1200 is pretty normal. in coco i feed very consistently just changing frequency as roots grow. what medium are you in? think of your ppm as how much food you're adding. your gallon starts at 250 you said. assume that's mostly ca and mg though you can find out yourself. i use ro water or 0ppm water. i add up to 300ppm of ca/mg to that so your water is good and i would use it plain in a sterile media(coco,peat,stones of any kind) and treat it like ro with calmag and chlorine(no microbe products with tap water). from there you would plan your npk ppm and boosters, etc. what you should do is measure ppm of tap. add your current dose of base nute and measure again. or just measure 1 teaspoon. if your plants are grown and you measure and stay within 800-1200 you'll never get worse than the tiny tips(i speak exaggerated, there are random plants that dislike even medium ppms (in agriculture these would be medium - medium high ppm rates for most hydro grown plants)).
 
blazeup420

blazeup420

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I have blunt syringes (no needle) measures in mls... but I get ya totally.

I do add cal mag as well. Usually a few mls the bottle says 5ml for 1L

Also occasionally giving a foliar spray of that in dark but have backed off on that now as well.

I'm in soil. I tested a pot and ph of it was 6 so it was good to start with in that respect.

Yeh they didn't seem to be bothered by the heat but I'm just now trying to reach " ideal conditions " for them
 
xenon730

xenon730

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imo stop your calmag. 300 is what i feed for maximum stretch or bushiness. your tap water is likely adequate for both, but you could add some mg in later flower. you only need to be feeding probably half the recommended dose of base npk(dm) and regular dose of your addons. by soil you mean what exactly? that can change everything.
 
blazeup420

blazeup420

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Heheh I thought dirt was dirt... nah it's called black magic supposed to be an ok soil here.

Ok I'll stop the cal mag

I did a 1/4 strength feed with a flush a few days ago so they're still burning a bit but I think will be ok
 
xenon730

xenon730

630
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alright now i can set you up. this your new outline. black magic is soilless pre amended. right now you feed nothing but your tap water until your bottom leaves show a little yellow. don't feed until mega run off if you want the amendments to last or feed to mega run off if you'd rather add your own. feed to 15% runoff every other time if you trying to make it last or you'll get salt build up. once you see some yellowing everything i said before starts which is:
no calmag
half strength base nutrient
full strength an bloom boosters
adjust base nutrient if showing hunger keeping ppm between 800-1100. ph between 5.8 and 6.2. better to be lower but really the key here is consistency. id rather see you feed 6.2 every day than varying of the others if your tap settles around there. once you're feeding like this you water to 20% run off every time. basically, once you know it's going through, rinse through another fill up.
 
blazeup420

blazeup420

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Oh my bad bro I got a little spaced, I should have said my current stage is veg. Im just going to flower when it's healthy enough so I was curious about these boosters etc.

I got a little side tracked. Sorry
 
xenon730

xenon730

630
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no no everything still applies. just don't feed the boosters obviously lol.

tap until yellow on bottom leaves.
half strength base nute when done.
once you start flowering use boosters exactly on label.
if yellowing starts on bottom, raise base nutrient never going over 1100ppm. ph 5.8-6.2
no sprays for now.

tried to sum it up clearer here.
 
blazeup420

blazeup420

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Oh cool so just water I'll ph to 5.5 cause my meter is cheap and it always climbs a few points later I only just noticed this and it's prob one of the reasons it got burnt cause I never went super hard with nutes etc. so yeh water only till yellow bottom leaves then go with the that? Is that it in summary or...am I still too faded. Could be both ;)
 
blazeup420

blazeup420

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I sometimes spray with water on leaves is this alright or not? It's ph corrected mist that's been sat for 24 hrs to let chlorine evaporate that's high here
 
xenon730

xenon730

630
93
i edited it a bit more. my last message should be good for you now. and when you check ph put a little of your food in a small cup and let it sit it resting until it settles. that's the proper way to use. they slowly change as you noticed.
 

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