Building RDWC system, any help is appreciated

  • Thread starter Leovaldez
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Leovaldez

14
3
Hey everyone I know this topic is similar to others but im trying to design a 9-plant RDWC system and have a few questions. Will this design work? The red lines are return and green are fill.
Other info:
2 in pvc pipe
5 gallon buckets
each one will have air stone
5x5 grow tent area
27 reservoir outside tent
My main questions are:
How big of a pump should I get?
I have 2in pipe for the fill line currently but do I need that or just 2in for the return?
Ive been told that 9 plants are too many in a 5x5, but I have 9 in soil right now that seem fine. Does hydroponics make that much bigger plants that I can't have 9?
Thank you in advance
Rdwc 2 back
Rdwc 2 front
 
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OldOneEye

647
143
The number of plants you have in that area is subjective..... using 3 gal containers i get 9 plants in a 4 ft. x 4 ft. area. I yield as much or more as the next guy, my quality of flower is as good or better than the next guy.
It's in how you manage your grow that determines your success.
As for your set up, I'm for of a buyer than DIY guy, born all thumbs.
 
NairnM16

NairnM16

475
63
Are you going
Sterile or beneficial bacteria?

I use 4 38l buckets in a 4x4

It’s not that hydro makes the plants bigger
It’s just the plants have 24/7 availability to the nutes
So they just thrive

For pump size figure out the volume of water in your system nd nd get a pump tht moves 3x/4x the amount of water per hour

The feeding schedule is different to the charts you get online cause they always have access to food they need less Thant the recommended dose

I use advanced nutes
I can send my schedule if you want to try I go no higher than 1.4 ec peak flower

Only use hydro gaurd as a root bacterial protection

i use the big tubing for my feed line nd a half diameter for my return line it matched the same size as my pump

Got a T reducer at the back of my loop the feed it back down the middle
 
NairnM16

NairnM16

475
63
Another thing to consider is airstones nd air pump

O2 is the key to hydro

You can avoid airstones and pump with some h202 but this worked better in a sterile environment with no bacteria

I like to use beneficial bacteria for my root zones so I don’t use h202

The temp of your water will effect the oxygen in the water lower temps being better

Depending on your area you might need to factor in a water chiller
 
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Leovaldez

14
3
The number of plants you have in that area is subjective..... using 3 gal containers i get 9 plants in a 4 ft. x 4 ft. area. I yield as much or more as the next guy, my quality of flower is as good or better than the next guy.
It's in how you manage your grow that determines your success.
As for your set up, I'm for of a buyer than DIY guy, born all thumbs.
Would you say its better to do more smaller ones or 4 big containers? is there any difference in grow/harvest cycles? And Ive been pretty good with my hands so Im confident in building once I get the right ideas.
 
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OldOneEye

647
143
Would you say its better to do more smaller ones or 4 big containers? is there any difference in grow/harvest cycles? And Ive been pretty good with my hands so Im confident in building once I get the right ideas.

If you plan on taking cuttings and using clones and have a separate area to veg. Smaller plants means shorter veg times, flower times are consistant if your environment is consistant. You can harvest as much with single cola small plants as you can with larger plants. So it is very dependent on you and what feels right for you.
The method you are considering would need large plants, 3 to 5 week veg time for rooted clones, from seed 7 to 9 weeks. But again flowering time wouldn't change.
I would consider flood and drain tables for smaller plants...lots of them.
Yields if all things are similar would be very similar either method.
Sorry for the long post and I'm sure repeating myself.
 
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NorthenBud

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3
Hey NairnM16 I would love to give your schedule a try with the advanced nutrients. Never ran them but am going with them as soon as I can understand their feeding charts and what additives I don’t need
 
NairnM16

NairnM16

475
63
Hey NairnM16 I would love to give your schedule a try with the advanced nutrients. Never ran them but am going with them as soon as I can understand their feeding charts and what additives I don’t need
GERMINATION PHASE/CLONE (WEEK 1)

  • Light: 18 hours of light / 6 hours of darkness
  • Nutrients:
    • pH Perfect Grow, Micro, Bloom : Not necessary at this stage.
    • Additives:
      • Voodoo Juice : 2 ml/L
      • Tarantula : 2 ml/L
      • Piranha : 2 ml/L
      • B-52: 2 ml/L (optional)
      • SensiZym : 2 ml/L
    • Week 2:
      • pH Perfect Grow : 1 ml/L
      • pH Perfect Micro : 1 ml/L
      • pH Perfect Bloom : 1 ml/L
    • Week 3: pre veg/ Start veg
      • pH Perfect Grow : 2 ml/L
      • pH Perfect Micro : 2 ml/L
      • pH Perfect Bloom : 2 ml/L
    • Week 4:
      • pH Perfect Grow : 3 ml/L
      • pH Perfect Micro : 3 ml/L
      • pH Perfect Bloom : 3 ml/L
    • Additives:
      • B-52: 2 ml/L
      • Rhino Skin : 2 ml/L
      • SensiZym: 2 ml/L
      • Voodoo Juice : 2 ml/L
      • Tarantula : 2 ml/L
      • Piranha : 2 ml/L

Veg week (all weeks) 3/4 mls per L depending on how plants react

    • pH Perfect Grow : 3/4 ml/L
    • pH Perfect Micro : 3/4 ml/L
    • pH Perfect Bloom : 3/4 ml/L
  • Additives:
    • B-52: 2 ml/L (throughout the vegetative phase)
    • Rhino Skin : 2 ml/L (throughout the vegetative phase)
    • SensiZym: 2 ml/L (throughout the vegetative phase

PRE-FLOWERING PHASE (WEEK 5)

  • Light: 12 hours light / 12 hours dark
  • Nutrients:
    • pH Perfect Grow : 3 ml/L
    • pH Perfect Micro : 3 ml/L
    • pH Perfect Bloom : 3 ml/L
    • Additives:
      • B-52 : 2 ml/L
      • Bud Ignitor : 2 ml/L (week 1 to 2 of flowering)
      • Bud Candy : 2 ml/L (week 1 of flowering until the end)
      • Rhino Skin : 2 ml/L
      • SensiZym : 2 ml/L
      • Voodoo Juice : 2 ml/L (reuse starting from the first week of flowering)
      • Tarantula : 2 ml/L (reuse starting from the first week of flowering)
      • Piranha : 2 ml/L (reuse starting from the first week of flowering)


FLOWERING PHASE (WEEK 6-10)

  • Light: 12 hours light / 12 hours dark
  • Nutrients:
    • Week 6-10:
      • pH Perfect Grow : 3 ml/L
      • pH Perfect Micro : 3 ml/L
      • pH Perfect Bloom : 3 ml/L
    • Additives:
      • Bud Ignitor : 2 ml/L (weeks 1 to 2 of flowering only)
      • Bud Candy : 2 ml/L (week 1 of flowering until the end)
      • Big Bud : 2 ml/L (week 2 to 5 of flowering)
      • Overdrive : 2 ml/L (week 9-10)
      • B-52: 2 ml/L (until week 8)
      • Rhino Skin : 2 ml/L
      • SensiZym : 2 ml/L
      • Bud Factor X : 2 ml/L (from week 1 to the last week of flowering)
RINSE (WEEK 11-12)

  • Light: 12 hours light / 12 hours dark
  • Nutrients:
    • pH Perfect Grow, Micro, Bloom : None
    • Additives:
      • Flawless Finish : 2 ml/L (to eliminate remaining nutrients and prepare for harvest.


I use 110L res for flower nd around 90L for veg but I only dose to 70L on GMB for veg
Do the full amount on additive,

I don’t use hydro gaurd or h202

The sensisyme is your root bacteria

Ppm/ec don’t take this as a measurement metric

There is ph buffers and amino acids tht cause your ec to read higher than what’s available

With advanced most people see the price off a bottle md think he’ll nah, not realising tht additive is only present for 2 weeks of flower Sony only use like 200ml tht bottle does 5 runs for $50 thts $10 a run

If ur not after top shelf quality you can skip on the but factor x,
The main additive I would preach would be b52,rhino skin, voodoo juice nd sensisyme,

The rest are just pk boosters nd nd seaweed extracts, they work but not needed,

For nice buds bud candy big bud nd overdrive should be fine,

There new bottle tasty terps is just nirvana
Tht just helps bring out the aromas nd taste of your end product,

But if you mess up the dry and cute this won’t really matter,

Start with the base nutes nd root stimulants,

After a few runs start adding the additives nd you’ll figure out what’s worth adding nd what’s not,

They say half strength to start off, but if your plants can handle AN push them harder, I’ve had ec from 0.8- 2.4 in veg with no symptoms of over feeding or burning, I let the ph wander from 5.8 to 6.4 only ph down if it goes over 6.5

I’ve tried 3 other brands not gonna talk down on any but never have I had results like AN in Dwc compared to competitors
 
NairnM16

NairnM16

475
63
Oh also I added extra veg weeks as I’m perpetual so I give them 4 weeks germ and preveg before training starts
 
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