Can anyone identify this problem... +rep

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QuarterbackMo

QuarterbackMo

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Its on the top leaves... I thought it was light burn but Rob from HG thinks its iron or a nute imbalance. It literally happened or at least showed itself over night.

I upped my cal-mag last night by 2ml/gal as I was seeing a few spots on my lower leaves. I am growing a new strain using my old strains recipe and figured she might be a little cal-mag whore. I always use 5ml per gal in my rdwc and never have problems. I used 1-2ml per gallon in the UC previously with my bubba and never had any spots show up. Bubba x OG was spotting I couldn't understand why and I figured since I have previously used 5ml per gallon in my rdwc and 1-2 in the UC that me adding 2ml/gal from the 2ml/gal I started at a week ago shouldn't hurt anything. Assuming my plants didn't eat any of that cal-mag through out the week the max that could possibly be in my water right now is 4ml/gal.

The rest of the recipie includes 5ml/gal of aquaflakes a&b, 3.8ml/gal amino treatment, 1ml/gal roots exel, .4ml/gal drip clean, 1/8tsp/gal exel lg, 3.8ml/gal multizen, 5ml/gallon aqua shield my final ppm was 750 and I'm in week 2 of bloom.

My room temp is 82 day 72 night co2 is at 1550ppm, water temp is 69, ph is 5.7... tell me what you think about these pics... I'm stumped.




This is a pic of the leafs that are affected they are on all the other plants too up top only the ones in the middle under the light though all the outside leaves and shaded leafs are still healthy and perfect as ever.

Can anyone identify this problem rep


Here is one that I cut off the plant under normal light.

Burntleaf


This is a pic of this same area 1-2 days ago

Can anyone identify this problem rep 2


I can't figure it out...:sign0065:
 
H

hogan400

859
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QB, Im new to farmer and have zero exp with the uc, I actually just started my first uc grow so I can only relate my soil experience. Maybe it will give you something else to look at and observe.

It does look like cal def, as well as heat stress....that being said ive had a couple similar experiences happen in my soil garden, once when I did a watering with some fresh tap water, I figured there must have been excessive chlorine or an element that caused rapid interveinal burning. It didnt progress, and no more came of it. (This MAY not the case but a thought for you)

On one occasion I had sprayed something in high humidity and the spray either pooled up between the veins or maybe there was leftover transpiration.... but it burnt em when the lights came on and they looked identical as well.

Ur new growth and old growth looks good. Were there any changes in top off or uc water? humidity increase for any reason, or sprays...sometimes its something simple that was overlooked. Right now im going thru some hydro growing pains in general... I find myself over thinking all my problems.

Good vibes to ya, and I read ur threads. Good work QB.
 
QuarterbackMo

QuarterbackMo

810
93
QB, Im new to farmer and have zero exp with the uc, I actually just started my first uc grow so I can only relate my soil experience. Maybe it will give you something else to look at and observe.

It does look like cal def, as well as heat stress....that being said ive had a couple similar experiences happen in my soil garden, once when I did a watering with some fresh tap water, I figured there must have been excessive chlorine or an element that caused rapid interveinal burning. It didnt progress, and no more came of it. (This MAY not the case but a thought for you)

On one occasion I had sprayed something in high humidity and the spray either pooled up between the veins or maybe there was leftover transpiration.... but it burnt em when the lights came on and they looked identical as well.

Ur new growth and old growth looks good. Were there any changes in top off or uc water? humidity increase for any reason, or sprays...sometimes its something simple that was overlooked. Right now im going thru some hydro growing pains in general... I find myself over thinking all my problems.

Good vibes to ya, and I read ur threads. Good work QB.
No nothing is ever out of order in there the closest the lights were at best was 12". The co2 might be it but how do you explain that cuz the room has been at the same conditions since I started this grow and just happened over night literally. The only thing I did last night was add 2ml/gal calmag into the mix to try and stop the spotting on the lower leaves. That was starting. I am stumped completely.
 
audius

audius

628
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i would say you got some light bleaching going on but you say that the lights not to close, ok.ck your roots to make sure you dont have any pooling of old nutes in your buckets. aka hot shot. & also imho. 2 mil a cal mag per gal isnt enough.5 to 7 is kinda what i use when i use it. i hope this has help ya some.
 
woodsmaneh

woodsmaneh

1,724
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I would dump the res and mix new nutriants. If this is new you to you than maybe you got an old bottle of food but my money is it is most likely lock out. If it is lock out change it out.
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

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I would dump the res and mix new nutriants. If this is new you to you than maybe you got an old bottle of food but my money is it is most likely lock out. If it is lock out change it out.

This is perhaps the fastest and safest route to take. It can be inexpensive too, if you're using the right nutes. I know most people add cal-mag first, but if it has calcium in it, I always recommend adding it last to your nutrient mix, as it's the most likely culprit when it comes to nutrient lockout issues. Mix it separately, dilute it heavily and only then add it to your hydro system.
 
opt1c

opt1c

330
28
try 78f and 900ppm; they may be metabolizing faster than they can uptake and make sure your meters are calibrated... if your in veg a foliar might give them the extra nutrients to take the 82f/1550ppm :smiley_joint:
 
KennyPowers

KennyPowers

542
143
you are light on MG. you can see the intervenal region starting to lighten in your 1-2 earlier pics. when you added more calmag you added a bunch more CA and not that much more MG. back off on the calmag and add abt 50ppm of epsom salts.

i would also foliar with 2% epsom solution while waitin for that to kick in.
 
desertsquirrel

desertsquirrel

1,177
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Kenny is right about the epsom, but the other part of the equation is pH swing.

if you look at my first thread, actual available ppm for the UC, you will see at about 2-3 weeks in i had this exact problem. we solved it with epsom and pH swing.

Hope that helps.
 
deacon1503

deacon1503

1,224
113
Kenny is right about the epsom, but the other part of the equation is pH swing.

if you look at my first thread, actual available ppm for the UC, you will see at about 2-3 weeks in i had this exact problem. we solved it with epsom and pH swing.

Hope that helps.

Which brand of epsom have u been happy with?
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

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313
Which brand of epsom have u been happy with?

Any brand from the pharmacy section of oyur local grocery store will do nicely, as it's all food grade there. You're not likely to need a large quantity, so there isn't much of a price break at these sizes, certainly nothing worth driving out of your way for.

I noticed you never mentioned what your relative humidity was in your room. That can have a big impact on how well your plants are taking up nutrients. For veg, you want your RH value in the 60-75% neighborhood, and for most of flower only 5 to 10 points below that. Only in the last week or two of flower is it desirable to drop humidity below 50%.
 
deacon1503

deacon1503

1,224
113
Any brand from the pharmacy section of oyur local grocery store will do nicely, as it's all food grade there. You're not likely to need a large quantity, so there isn't much of a price break at these sizes, certainly nothing worth driving out of your way for.

I noticed you never mentioned what your relative humidity was in your room. That can have a big impact on how well your plants are taking up nutrients. For veg, you want your RH value in the 60-75% neighborhood, and for most of flower only 5 to 10 points below that. Only in the last week or two of flower is it desirable to drop humidity below 50%.

Thanks for the epsom advice. In veg im at 82°/~65%. Then flower through week 6 @ 78°/60%, and then 72° with my dehuey running 24/7 to lower RH as much as possible till chop. Works great.
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

6,892
313
Thanks for the epsom advice. In veg im at 82°/~65%. Then flower through week 6 @ 78°/60%, and then 72° with my dehuey running 24/7 to lower RH as much as possible till chop. Works great.

That's on the money, so it shouldn't be contributing to the problem. Doesn't look too serious, let us know how things go from here? Maybe it's just some one-time weirdness... it happens...
 
J

jskinit

4
1
looks to me like u may be lacking in something in your're nutrient line.
 
QuarterbackMo

QuarterbackMo

810
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Ok rh is 50% and I think the problem was I just wasnt feeding them hard enough... Whatever the problem was it only lasted 1 day and isnt fucking up anymore... Im gonna try some epsom salts too just because. What do you measure yours out to per gallon DS? Thanks everybody for your input. I just did a change out and now they are happy it seems I also knocked the co2 back to 1200ppm. Im gonna go read your thread right now DS.
 
QuarterbackMo

QuarterbackMo

810
93
Thanks for the epsom advice. In veg im at 82°/~65%. Then flower through week 6 @ 78°/60%, and then 72° with my dehuey running 24/7 to lower RH as much as possible till chop. Works great.

You pretty much just described my cycle to the T... Thats what I do almost exactly.
 
QuarterbackMo

QuarterbackMo

810
93
Holy shit ds you werent playin when you said exact same problem I see
 
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