Changing from veg food to bloom food.

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joshua9595

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Thanks for the feed peeps. But You guys arguing are lost. You gotta prove nothing to me all I wanted was a simple yes or no. Thanks again
 
ForestSpirit

ForestSpirit

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Thanks for the feed peeps. But You guys arguing are lost. You gotta prove nothing to me all I wanted was a simple yes or no. Thanks again
Don't take it personally.We call it a point of view.
 
Jmaes Mabley

Jmaes Mabley

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Generally, I give the same ratio, all through the grow.
Say this is a chemical grow. Though, I Always supplement my pots, with Kelp.
Promix BX Medium.
I use
4-18-38
15.5-0-0
Epsom Salts
0-52-34
Take an 8 weeks flowering strain, as an example. Slightly adjust for longer/shorter.
I will Slowly increase all base nutrients, from seedling-late flowering. Generally weekly, if they are doing well.
I also generally start out with 10% strength with seedlings, and work my way up, in late flowering to 25%-40% depending how the plants respond, but I always try and give the minimum amount needed to keep them growing, and not showing any deficiencies.

At 3 weeks into flowering, in an 8 weeks flowering strain, I will boost the P-K, 0-52-34-in weeks 3-4, every watering, at about 30%-40% of recommended dose.
Weeks 5-6 Epsom Salts gets boosted. Epsom Salts is also Sulfur Rich, and is thought to be beneficial in the production of terpenes.
Weeks 7-8, fertilizer is cut back 25% each week.
Always be aware, small adjusts may need to be made, and nothing, is set in stone.

Also. I start my seedlings under either a 1000w Hortilux HPS, or a 1000w Hortilux Blue, or a 1000w MassMedicalStrains Halide. Its an Upgrade to the Hortilux Blue, which is discontinued, and is 20% More Powerful, than the Blue, and at least $100 usd cheaper, than the Blue.
The HPS is at 24 inches, and the Blue/MMS, is kept at 20 inches. The HPS has more photons, and will produce more weed, but, the Halides, will bring out different genetic expression, you may not see under HPS, or LED.
Hortilux Blue/MMS have a spectrum of 280nm-2000nm+
I also supplement with Solacure UVA/B bulbs, which are the most powerful UVA/B plant bulbs made in the 280nm-305nm range. 2 bulbs for every 4 x 4 and 1000w HID, or Equal.

My theory, which may be wrong, but, Ive been doing it since the introduced HID, around 1977.
But, if I lived in say, the Andes Mountains, and I wanted to grow weed?

Seeds would be getting the crap blasted out of them with heavy duty UVA/B, and high intensity of light.
In Ecuador, the sun is so intense, it will fry your ass, in short order.
Many of those places even at sea level, have a UV index, that goes well beyond 10, as is what is the most intense, in the USA. Down there, it may go to 18.
At 20,000ft in the Andes, the UVAAAAA level was Higher, THAN ON MARS!!!. IT WAS 40 UV INDEX, AT 20,000ft, though, of course weed wont grow at 20,000 feet, but is an example of how intense of light, many Sativa strains evolved under.
Thing is though, growing with really intense light, inside, one must have a corresponding amount, of fresh air exchange, or, you will get light stress.
I let the seedlings/plants grow towards the light, which also slowly conditions them to intense light, as they grow closer towards it. I can get the lights as close as 15 inches, if temps can be kept under 85f
 
Jmaes Mabley

Jmaes Mabley

798
143
I didnt have the UVA/B bulbs in the 70s ect. But have always used 1000w HID, when I could, to start seeds. Sometimes for convenience's sake, and limited space ect. I may start them under cool white fluorescent, but as soon as they pop, they go under strong light.
The first bulbs came out of the Navy-Nuclear Sub Program, in the 70s. They would grow veggies, in the sub, and used a 1000w HID/Halide, as sometimes they would have no contact for 6+ months.
So, they also started, and grew to maturity their veggie seeds, under 1000w HID. So, I just have always done the same.
 
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