Coco coir~ God mode ? HELP

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Kgunge

Kgunge

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I had to switch away from Coco Coir because I was trying to run it like Soil. I was starting to get a handle on it and it was just easier to switch to hydro. Here are a couple of things I would suggest because it sounds like the boss is difficult. I would implement a feed water schedule. Secondly, I would go a flush with just PH water once a week, followed after the flush by a light feed. IMO the problem with COCO and running it like soil is that the salts build up and ultimately lower the yield of the grow. If you could do 2 flushed a week I believe it would further enhance your grow.
I had to switch away from Coco Coir because I was trying to run it like Soil. I was starting to get a handle on it and it was just easier to switch to hydro. Here are a couple of things I would suggest because it sounds like the boss is difficult. I would implement a feed water schedule. Secondly, I would go a flush with just PH water once a week, followed after the flush by a light feed. IMO the problem with COCO and running it like soil is that the salts build up and ultimately lower the yield of the grow. If you could do 2 flushed a week I believe it would further enhance your grow.
I would say then yes you would benefit from both runoff and lower ppm.

Is this room co2 supplemented? Because that can increase nutrient demands as it will slow transpiration rates.
We supplement with c02 yea. Different ppm per plant phase. Are you saying that with c02 there will be more frequent irrigation or stronger EC ?
 
Aqua Man

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We supplement with c02 yea. Different ppm per plant phase. Are you saying that with c02 there will be more frequent irrigation or stronger EC ?
Stronger EC... co2 reduces transpiration rates... so we usually reduce humidity, increase temperature and increase concentration of the feed.

Basically the plant becomes more efficient at photosynthesis and thus reduces tranpiration. Common thought is that with co2 they can tolerate higher temps and lower humidity when in fact they actually need it. This is where knowing the leaf temps can really help to push temps to the limit and help dial in optimal humidity

By reducing humidity and increasing temps it creates a higher vapor pressure deficit and that means more flow of water and nutrients through the plant that help make up for the transpiration loss due to the plant photosynthesizing more efficiently. Often we need to run higher ppm if we don't offset out temps and humidity enough. But even if we do usually we need higher ppm.

There is a happy medium to be reached because the VPD has a direct effect on the stomatal openings that exchange co2 and give off o2.

This explains why your ppm is high.

I would really need to see the plants to see what environmental changes may benefit you and get some results on the ppm test in the media.
 
Kgunge

Kgunge

60
18
Stronger EC... co2 reduces transpiration rates... so we usually reduce humidity, increase temperature and increase concentration of the feed.

Basically the plant becomes more efficient at photosynthesis and thus reduces tranpiration. Common thought is that with co2 they can tolerate higher temps and lower humidity when in fact they actually need it. This is where knowing the leaf temps can really help to push temps to the limit and help dial in optimal humidity

By reducing humidity and increasing temps it creates a higher vapor pressure deficit and that means more flow of water and nutrients through the plant that help make up for the transpiration loss due to the plant photosynthesizing more efficiently. Often we need to run higher ppm if we don't offset out temps and humidity enough. But even if we do usually we need higher ppm.

There is a happy medium to be reached because the VPD has a direct effect on the stomatal openings that exchange co2 and give off o2.

This explains why your ppm is high.

I would really need to see the plants to see what environmental changes may benefit you and get some results on the ppm test in the media.
Wow man I forgot to respond and now im back researching what you've taught me as I am blueprinting for the next run coming up soon.
Lets begin ! now Im more confident in your grow "jargon", I understand what you're saying now through the heavy research.

Under double ended HPS @1000w , plants in 20 gal containers and I've upped the feeding to 3 gal a day because even 8 hours later they're bone dry. Run is coming close to an end , Ive cut down 1 room so far , great weight, im not to happy with quality... After what I've learned now on coco coir as well as how the environment plus C02 enrichment helps... we have to do things differently.

I also have a 22 light Gavita 1730 LED room that we have plants there full life cycle , I prefer the LEDs but those were a learning curve like crazy.

My plan for the next run is to measure PPFD from the beginning instead of eyeing everything at every stage. To run up our natural gas C02 up to a max of 1500PPM , this im still reading on when the correct times to up the levels are. I will be putting a sauce run off collector because as of now we only have them sitting on risers because remember... strict old school "if it works, it works" senior bosses. So I convinced them to let me put the plants on risers AND saucers, giving me the ability to either feed more freq or until runoff to ensure saturation.
You stated with C02 enrichment you can really push your RPM, this is also something im learning about to maximize my grow. I can't seem to find tons of resources other than Dr.Bruce Bugbee and an article from Michigan University saying with 1500PPM of C02 you can push your temperatures up to 86F, with that being said im assuming they mean LEAF SURFACE temp and not ambient room temp... as under HPS you are emitting that infrared heat which will heat up the plants. I unfortunately cannot switch to smaller containers , but I was allowed to add (1) 10 gal container under the HPS as a RnD to show them what it can do compared to 20 gal. In our led room all the plants are in 10 gal containers. I had a rough time with these bc of the learning curve man, when I learned properly it was already mid flower :/

To summarize the questions
1) What is the optimal leaf surface temperature with C02 enrichment ? lets say ... 1500PPM
2) With C02 at those levels, how would that effect EC targets, feed frequency ?
3) Would you recommend any kind of amending to the coco to keep more moisture to stay on par with the once a day feeding im restricted to? That way I can make sure the coco isn't bone dry by the time I get to work, we all know that messes with the root zone EC and salt build up
4) on another thread you say you water till runoff even at seedling/early veg, this goes against most coco growers and even Dr.CoCo on cocoforcannabis. Can you explain why you do? I was under the impression you need to let the roots search for water as the medium is big but the roots are small, risking suffocating the roots

Thanks for all your work into the community, I stumbled across your posts / comments often. Here attached are also some photos you asked for
 
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Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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Wow man I forgot to respond and now im back researching what you've taught me as I am blueprinting for the next run coming up soon.
Lets begin ! now Im more confident in your grow "jargon", I understand what you're saying now through the heavy research.

Under double ended HPS @1000w , plants in 20 gal containers and I've upped the feeding to 3 gal a day because even 8 hours later they're bone dry. Run is coming close to an end , Ive cut down 1 room so far , great weight, im not to happy with quality... After what I've learned now on coco coir as well as how the environment plus C02 enrichment helps... we have to do things differently.

I also have a 22 light Gavita 1730 LED room that we have plants there full life cycle , I prefer the LEDs but those were a learning curve like crazy.

My plan for the next run is to measure PPFD from the beginning instead of eyeing everything at every stage. To run up our natural gas C02 up to a max of 1500PPM , this im still reading on when the correct times to up the levels are. I will be putting a sauce run off collector because as of now we only have them sitting on risers because remember... strict old school "if it works, it works" senior bosses. So I convinced them to let me put the plants on risers AND saucers, giving me the ability to either feed more freq or until runoff to ensure saturation.
You stated with C02 enrichment you can really push your RPM, this is also something im learning about to maximize my grow. I can't seem to find tons of resources other than Dr.Bruce Bugbee and an article from Michigan University saying with 1500PPM of C02 you can push your temperatures up to 86F, with that being said im assuming they mean LEAF SURFACE temp and not ambient room temp... as under HPS you are emitting that infrared heat which will heat up the plants. I unfortunately cannot switch to smaller containers , but I was allowed to add (1) 10 gal container under the HPS as a RnD to show them what it can do compared to 20 gal. In our led room all the plants are in 10 gal containers. I had a rough time with these bc of the learning curve man, when I learned properly it was already mid flower :/

To summarize the questions
1) What is the optimal leaf surface temperature with C02 enrichment ? lets say ... 1500PPM
2) With C02 at those levels, how would that effect EC targets, feed frequency ?
3) Would you recommend any kind of amending to the coco to keep more moisture to stay on par with the once a day feeding im restricted to? That way I can make sure the coco isn't bone dry by the time I get to work, we all know that messes with the root zone EC and salt build up
4) on another thread you say you water till runoff even at seedling/early veg, this goes against most coco growers and even Dr.CoCo on cocoforcannabis. Can you explain why you do? I was under the impression you need to let the roots search for water as the medium is big but the roots are small, risking suffocating the roots

Thanks for all your work into the community, I stumbled across your posts / comments often. Here attached are also some photos you asked for
Just watching the hockey game... I know dam Canadians and thier hockey... will grab this and explain to the best of my knowledge as soon as it over
 
Kgunge

Kgunge

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Just watching the hockey game... I know dam Canadians and thier hockey... will grab this and explain to the best of my knowledge as soon as it over
Just watching the hockey game... I know dam Canadians and thier hockey... will grab this and explain to the best of my knowledge as soon as it over
Yeah eh I hear you on that , don’t forget the tims in the morning ;)
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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Wow man I forgot to respond and now im back researching what you've taught me as I am blueprinting for the next run coming up soon.
Lets begin ! now Im more confident in your grow "jargon", I understand what you're saying now through the heavy research.

Under double ended HPS @1000w , plants in 20 gal containers and I've upped the feeding to 3 gal a day because even 8 hours later they're bone dry. Run is coming close to an end , Ive cut down 1 room so far , great weight, im not to happy with quality... After what I've learned now on coco coir as well as how the environment plus C02 enrichment helps... we have to do things differently.

I also have a 22 light Gavita 1730 LED room that we have plants there full life cycle , I prefer the LEDs but those were a learning curve like crazy.

My plan for the next run is to measure PPFD from the beginning instead of eyeing everything at every stage. To run up our natural gas C02 up to a max of 1500PPM , this im still reading on when the correct times to up the levels are. I will be putting a sauce run off collector because as of now we only have them sitting on risers because remember... strict old school "if it works, it works" senior bosses. So I convinced them to let me put the plants on risers AND saucers, giving me the ability to either feed more freq or until runoff to ensure saturation.
You stated with C02 enrichment you can really push your RPM, this is also something im learning about to maximize my grow. I can't seem to find tons of resources other than Dr.Bruce Bugbee and an article from Michigan University saying with 1500PPM of C02 you can push your temperatures up to 86F, with that being said im assuming they mean LEAF SURFACE temp and not ambient room temp... as under HPS you are emitting that infrared heat which will heat up the plants. I unfortunately cannot switch to smaller containers , but I was allowed to add (1) 10 gal container under the HPS as a RnD to show them what it can do compared to 20 gal. In our led room all the plants are in 10 gal containers. I had a rough time with these bc of the learning curve man, when I learned properly it was already mid flower :/

To summarize the questions
1) What is the optimal leaf surface temperature with C02 enrichment ? lets say ... 1500PPM
2) With C02 at those levels, how would that effect EC targets, feed frequency ?
3) Would you recommend any kind of amending to the coco to keep more moisture to stay on par with the once a day feeding im restricted to? That way I can make sure the coco isn't bone dry by the time I get to work, we all know that messes with the root zone EC and salt build up
4) on another thread you say you water till runoff even at seedling/early veg, this goes against most coco growers and even Dr.CoCo on cocoforcannabis. Can you explain why you do? I was under the impression you need to let the roots search for water as the medium is big but the roots are small, risking suffocating the roots

Thanks for all your work into the community, I stumbled across your posts / comments often. Here attached are also some photos you asked for
1. Really depends on strain as the sativas will do better in higher heat.i fond personally leaf temps of around 80 to be ideal for the 1200ppm I run but I go much lower at the end of the grow to preserve terps. I also drop my co2 to 600 after swelling. The plant doesn't photosynthesize as much after that.

2. With mine and I'm in small pots feed many times a day. Last grow was 14x a day 250ml per event and I can't grow trees like you have there. Probably the most accurate is to read the root zone. You can use a syringe to pull water out if the saturation zone if your not doing a lot of runoff to test ppm and ph. I would say you gonna hit around 800-1000ppm and maybe more if they are sucking up the water and nutes. Normally I would say 800 but you are growing trees and can prob go higher than 1000ppm as long as they are eating it and not showing tox. Ideally around 120ppm of nitrogen should serve you well and much will depend in the temp and humidity. You can up the ppm if you up the humidity. But you will know for sure by the root zone sample. You want to take from the saturation zone.

3. Coco and vermiculite is a good mix I found. Small source of silica, provides good drainage so maintains and improves aeration but also holds moisture well.

4. See this thread. I'm not done with UT yet. But I will add that the period they are most susceptible to watering is from when the tap root hits the bottom until the roots start to grow above the water table. So imo up posting is a good idea but not a necessity using taller pots so the saturation zone isn't as big. Then when transplanting into the next size all of the roots are above the water table and the risk is much less. The more media also the higher the risk so I feel 1 transplant is important.

Not completed but this will help you understand some of what I said. You can also test the height of the perched water table before growing in it so you can see how much water it will hold and how high the water table is.

 
Kgunge

Kgunge

60
18
1. Really depends on strain as the sativas will do better in higher heat.i fond personally leaf temps of around 80 to be ideal for the 1200ppm I run but I go much lower at the end of the grow to preserve terps. I also drop my co2 to 600 after swelling. The plant doesn't photosynthesize as much after that.

2. With mine and I'm in small pots feed many times a day. Last grow was 14x a day 250ml per event and I can't grow trees like you have there. Probably the most accurate is to read the root zone. You can use a syringe to pull water out if the saturation zone if your not doing a lot of runoff to test ppm and ph. I would say you gonna hit around 800-1000ppm and maybe more if they are sucking up the water and nutes. Normally I would say 800 but you are growing trees and can prob go higher than 1000ppm as long as they are eating it and not showing tox. Ideally around 120ppm of nitrogen should serve you well and much will depend in the temp and humidity. You can up the ppm if you up the humidity. But you will know for sure by the root zone sample. You want to take from the saturation zone.

3. Coco and vermiculite is a good mix I found. Small source of silica, provides good drainage so maintains and improves aeration but also holds moisture well.

4. See this thread. I'm not done with UT yet. But I will add that the period they are most susceptible to watering is from when the tap root hits the bottom until the roots start to grow above the water table. So imo up posting is a good idea but not a necessity using taller pots so the saturation zone isn't as big. Then when transplanting into the next size all of the roots are above the water table and the risk is much less. The more media also the higher the risk so I feel 1 transplant is important.

Not completed but this will help you understand some of what I said. You can also test the height of the perched water table before growing in it so you can see how much water it will hold and how high the water table is.

You’re a G, thanks for that write up.
I did the same this time around lowering c02 and temps in the finals weeks of flower , will definitely be adding that to the standard of procedures from now on. Do you mess with light intensity towards the end of flower as well?
Also good suggestion on the syringe , even with run off I have a hard time collecting it because the plants get so big, man they like to grow em up to 13 ft tall 😳
I like how you brought up vermiculite because I was going to amend a few pots of coco with it this time around and see how it does. For right now our Recipe is 70/30 coco perlite then add in some worm castings which I’m not too sure about the castings being the best option for coco. With this kind of setup with the added c02, what are some normal range EC targets ? I gathered up a few resources on that but it seems to be so different for every environment and nutrient line. For example today going off mills feed chart I ran up a huge 2.9 EC , plants don’t seem to be affected that I can notice but just seems high to me
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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You’re a G, thanks for that write up.
I did the same this time around lowering c02 and temps in the finals weeks of flower , will definitely be adding that to the standard of procedures from now on. Do you mess with light intensity towards the end of flower as well?
Also good suggestion on the syringe , even with run off I have a hard time collecting it because the plants get so big, man they like to grow em up to 13 ft tall 😳
I like how you brought up vermiculite because I was going to amend a few pots of coco with it this time around and see how it does. For right now our Recipe is 70/30 coco perlite then add in some worm castings which I’m not too sure about the castings being the best option for coco. With this kind of setup with the added c02, what are some normal range EC targets ? I gathered up a few resources on that but it seems to be so different for every environment and nutrient line. For example today going off mills feed chart I ran up a huge 2.9 EC , plants don’t seem to be affected that I can notice but just seems high to me
Of its organic don't go by ppm.. to much other stuff that it counts as ppm but is not available to the plants. Even the casting will throw ya off so your EC will be much higher with organics 2k+ is never usually an issue but have ppl freaking out. Start half dose and work up if they get hungry.

I haven't mess with light intensity yet but I'm going to next grow try the last week dropong intensity and increase duration back to 18/6 but no way in hell can I recommend it at this point.
 
Kgunge

Kgunge

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Of its organic don't go by ppm.. to much other stuff that it counts as ppm but is not available to the plants. Even the casting will throw ya off so your EC will be much higher with organics 2k+ is never usually an issue but have ppl freaking out. Start half dose and work up if they get hungry.

I haven't mess with light intensity yet but I'm going to next grow try the last week dropong intensity and increase duration back to 18/6 but no way in hell can I recommend it at this point.
I think I’ll just try vermiculite next time around instead of worm castings. I know Mr Canuck on YouTube uses Gaia 4•4•4 , but at that point I think it’s way too similar to soil and losing out the the hydro like benefits of coco. Well I guess the way we’re set up we’re losing the hydro benefits as well lol

I’ll be following your page man I’ll keep the threat updated as well. Clones will be coming off soon so the next run is almost here for me. And good luck on the experiment reverting back to 18/6 that sounds hella scary
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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I think I’ll just try vermiculite next time around instead of worm castings. I know Mr Canuck on YouTube uses Gaia 4•4•4 , but at that point I think it’s way too similar to soil and losing out the the hydro like benefits of coco. Well I guess the way we’re set up we’re losing the hydro benefits as well lol

I’ll be following your page man I’ll keep the threat updated as well. Clones will be coming off soon so the next run is almost here for me. And good luck on the experiment reverting back to 18/6 that sounds hella scary
Definitely keep it updated... I won't be growing for a few months yet... lots on my plate right now.
 
Scar818

Scar818

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Ok so let’s see if i can help. I know exactly why you are growing because im in the same boat but much smaller space. So people who grow that size indeed have high ppms. I am also familiar with few people who have places that size and even bigger. So firstly you do not want to have 20gallon pots thats just ridiculous waste of space for indoor grow. You should so 5 gallon. You temperature should be 80-82 in late veg and early flower. Starting week 3 u should start lowering it bit by bit week 5-6 around 76-78 and week last week should be around 66-68. Now for humidity u wanna start off at 60-65 week 1 and 2, week 3-4 55-60, 5-7 50-55, 7-8 45-50, harvest week 35-45. Try to match your c02 to your ppm during flower. That said you can cap it at 1500. You want some run off as when coco dries u will have a lot of salt build up. I let me coco dry for 3-4 days and run off ppm was over 3000 around 4k I believe. I water my coco every other day around 1-1.5 liters while using 3 gallon pots. Keep in mind water them according to how much they drink and flush once per week. I use root cleanser with my flushed by athena. Hmm this is what i can think of on the spot hopefully it helps and can ask questions if you have. While im new to growing myself i have lot of people around me who have been on it for a while.
 
Gduptreedup

Gduptreedup

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FEEDING SCHEDULE HELP
Hey everyone, I’m going to go straight to the point as I am so exhausted with trial and error , online searches , etc.

BEFORE YOU READ- please understand this is a commercial grow. A poorly operated one to say the least. We have100+ lights. Lots of space.

STATS: we use 20 gal containers , indoors , 70/30 coco to perlite mixture. Double ended Gavita HPS. Average temp 78-82F ,
avg rH 45-55, mills nutrient line , PPM7 during veg 600-1100 , flower 1100-1800 PPM7

FEEDSCHEDULE: once a daywhen Lights turn on, 2 gals at a time, no runoff.
• once a week mega feeding, means irrigation with added enzymes and microbes
• 2-3 normal schedule feeding (mills chart)
• water at the end of the week
⚠️There is usually one day in between feeds that we do not feed and instead let it dry out, so that gives us usually between 3-4 feeds a week ⚠️

My question is this ⚠️⚠️ —>continue this route ? Or lower ppm and feed half strength but daily.
Salt build up, weird growth , some leaf burn here and there. I’ve been taught by my superior this way of feeding in coco and I cannot help but think we are doing it wrong. Everywhere online says smaller feeds more frequently (which we cannot do as boss won’t accept automatic feed systems) so we have to manually feed and only have the option to do so once a day. I’m also not sure that 20 gal is the way to go in coco. I think that we should go smaller containers , feed more often , and feed weaker nute solution. I’m so confused about coco coir it’s driving me insane....

if there are any knowledgeable people in here with coco coir and commercial settings. I’m willing to set up a video call andeven pay you 50$USD an hour. if you are the correct candidate.

I’m not sure if I’m breaking any forum rules since I’m new, sorry about that.
Whatever information you need regarding the specs I’ll be more than happy to supply you that information to help Better understand the situation.
Hey with coco ph is important but even mooore is the ec . during veg you want an ec level of 1.4 to 1.7 veg. Then 1.1 to 1.3 during flower
 
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P

PINKP

3
1
Whats your problem smarty pants??? What happens when you lets coco dry out if your so smart???

And also, your tidbits of information with no pics its like playing pin the tail on the donky.......

Whats the PPM and PH of your water?
Whats the PPM and PH of your feedings?
Did you buffer your coco, what kind of coco did you use? Did you wash it?
Any slurry tests or run off tests done?
What kind of microbes and enzymes are you mixing with your salts?
What is it that your feeding? Salts? Whats its NPKs?
 
cannaluvme

cannaluvme

8
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Stronger EC... co2 reduces transpiration rates... so we usually reduce humidity, increase temperature and increase concentration of the feed.

Basically the plant becomes more efficient at photosynthesis and thus reduces tranpiration. Common thought is that with co2 they can tolerate higher temps and lower humidity when in fact they actually need it. This is where knowing the leaf temps can really help to push temps to the limit and help dial in optimal humidity

By reducing humidity and increasing temps it creates a higher vapor pressure deficit and that means more flow of water and nutrients through the plant that help make up for the transpiration loss due to the plant photosynthesizing more efficiently. Often we need to run higher ppm if we don't offset out temps and humidity enough. But even if we do usually we need higher ppm.

There is a happy medium to be reached because the VPD has a direct effect on the stomatal openings that exchange co2 and give off o2.

This explains why your ppm is high.

I would really need to see the plants to see what environmental changes may benefit you and get some results on the ppm test in the media.
I'm
Stronger EC... co2 reduces transpiration rates... so we usually reduce humidity, increase temperature and increase concentration of the feed.

Basically the plant becomes more efficient at photosynthesis and thus reduces tranpiration. Common thought is that with co2 they can tolerate higher temps and lower humidity when in fact they actually need it. This is where knowing the leaf temps can really help to push temps to the limit and help dial in optimal humidity

By reducing humidity and increasing temps it creates a higher vapor pressure deficit and that means more flow of water and nutrients through the plant that help make up for the transpiration loss due to the plant photosynthesizing more efficiently. Often we need to run higher ppm if we don't offset out temps and humidity enough. But even if we do usually we need higher ppm.

There is a happy medium to be reached because the VPD has a direct effect on the stomatal openings that exchange co2 and give off o2.

This explains why your ppm is high.

I would really need to see the plants to see what environmental changes may benefit you and get some results on the ppm test in the media.
I'm using one Exhale CO2 bag in my veg tent and my max temp reached has been 85 degrees at 55 % RH. They seem to be enjoying the environment from the way the fan leaves are talking to me. I know having a CO2 tank is different than the Exhale bag, would you say the plants can tolerate more heat per and less humidity using the bags instead of a tank per your statement?
 
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PXL 20211028 050525632
ComfortablyNumb

ComfortablyNumb

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I had to switch away from Coco Coir because I was trying to run it like Soil. I was starting to get a handle on it and it was just easier to switch to hydro. Here are a couple of things I would suggest because it sounds like the boss is difficult. I would implement a feed water schedule. Secondly, I would go a flush with just PH water once a week, followed after the flush by a light feed. IMO the problem with COCO and running it like soil is that the salts build up and ultimately lower the yield of the grow. If you could do 2 flushed a week I believe it would further enhance your grow.
You've horribly compounded your grow by mixing modes.
You can re-tool a bit and go fully one way or the other. That will help stabilize your grow.
 
Frankster

Frankster

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Man, I look at this grow and it makes me wonder about the possibilities. I really think my methods would be a good fit for a setup like this. Look at how much money is spent on a fertilizer regime. I like doing everything from scratch these days.

Based on what you describe, I think allowing those pots to sufficiency dry is the right way to go. Especially considering the size. A little dry stress is good IMO. The other thing I would be nailing is your enzymes and microbials. I would be doing it twice weekly, or perhaps even everyday, at some intervals. Keeping good root contact in those massive pots is key. I think what's really key here is having good enzyme activity, and microbial engagement, sufficient surfactant activity to keeping any salt accumulation in check.

I also think maybe getting some great air movement on the level of those pots is going to really turbo charge your situation. Those big pots love oxygen. Maybe get some big blowers in there, one blowing along the walls on one direction, and another on the other side, making a giant vortex of the place. Your air movement in this joint IMO, looks insufficient, and generally lacking, although, it's difficult to judge from my vantagepoint.
 
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Frankster

Frankster

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You’re a G, thanks for that write up.
I did the same this time around lowering c02 and temps in the finals weeks of flower , will definitely be adding that to the standard of procedures from now on. Do you mess with light intensity towards the end of flower as well?
Also good suggestion on the syringe , even with run off I have a hard time collecting it because the plants get so big, man they like to grow em up to 13 ft tall 😳
I like how you brought up vermiculite because I was going to amend a few pots of coco with it this time around and see how it does. For right now our Recipe is 70/30 coco perlite then add in some worm castings which I’m not too sure about the castings being the best option for coco. With this kind of setup with the added c02, what are some normal range EC targets ? I gathered up a few resources on that but it seems to be so different for every environment and nutrient line. For example today going off mills feed chart I ran up a huge 2.9 EC , plants don’t seem to be affected that I can notice but just seems high to me
If your trying for organic, and needing N, I would use Kelp the next time around, IMO, would be a better choice.

I really think coco and organics can be done, it just needs to be approached thoughtfully. Out of the gate, you got to figure out your approach to phosphorus (keeping it low or high), and if your going low, then your able to incorporate the nitrification process. Go for maximum microbials. Less overall cost, less maintence.

Phosphorus is the main barrier to nitrification. That's why the problems always start during flowering. You need to stay on one side of the fence, or the other. But organics can still be incorporated into a salt regime, minus the nitrification. But pH needs to be closely followed.
 
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ComfortablyNumb

ComfortablyNumb

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Man, I look at this grow and it makes me wonder about the possibilities. I really think my methods would be a good fit for a setup like this. Look at how much money is spent on a fertilizer regime. I like doing everything from scratch these days.

Based on what you describe, I think allowing those pots to sufficiency dry is the right way to go. Especially considering the size. A little dry stress is good IMO. The other thing I would be nailing is your enzymes and microbials. I would be doing it twice weekly, or perhaps even everyday, at some intervals. Keeping good root contact in those massive pots is key. I think what's really key here is having good enzyme activity, and microbial engagement, sufficient surfactant activity to keeping any salt accumulation in check.

I also think maybe getting some great air movement on the level of those pots is going to really turbo charge your situation. Those big pots love oxygen. Maybe get some big blowers in there, one blowing along the walls on one direction, and another on the other side, making a giant vortex of the place. Your air movement in this joint IMO, looks insufficient, and generally lacking, although, it's difficult to judge from my vantagepoint.
Your MBEs are going to take 2 weeks to fully catch up if you go that way. (Microbes, Bacteria, Enzymes) They will be feeding within a week but the plants will be slowed. They may stunt from this if they have poor genetics.
 

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