Detached Shed

[Ryesty]

Just got my shed running temps running close enough. This will be a continuously upgrade setup until I get it dialed in 100%. I’m from a very humid hot climate and now I live in a cold dry climate. So there has been a very humbling learning curve to say the least! It’s a 10 by 12 detached building with my equipment in the front 2 feet and the 10x10 area for the grow area. I insulated the walls with closed cell ISO board to insulate and eventually I’ll be able to create a completely sealed room. This silver board is great for this. After this small test run I will unscrew the board and insulate between the wall studs and screw the board back up and retape the seems to help stabilize the temps. I will also do the same to the roof rafters. I’m still not sure what to do with the floor. I don’t want to be walking on a closed cell insulation board but I can’t think of other way to insulate it at this point. I think I will have to install an insulation board and then put plywood on top of that. That will allow me to put a water proof coating on the floor turned up the wall a few inches in case of spills and for cleaning up good. Also this will give me my air tight seal also. Any Ideas on this or what has worked for you are greatly appreciated. For now I will run 4-1000 watt 8” air cooled hoods exhausting out the side I will run 6 soon but will be upgrading to LEC soon. Just not in the budget now and my lights are not completely out of date and still work good. I have ran a 30 amp 220 to an 8 light titan control box and a 15 amp line for the timer trigger cord, exhaust fan and the heater for when the lights are off. I bought a temperature controlled daytime night time fan controller and it is working great to control my temps. especially at night when heating with the lights. I definitely need at least one more 20 amp 110 line to help run additional components. I’m keeping my res. inside my house do to lack of power and I feed approx 10 gallons a day by hand until I set up my flood and drain bucket system after I get the apmosphere where it needs to be. For now I’m running feed to waste in coco perlite mix on some old flood and drain tables. Sorry for babbling, any advice or ideas are greatly appreciated. I’ll keep this updated as things progress.

 

[Freshone]

Ive built similar before,i put down 2x4s on end on the floor and then put r-19 down and plywood over the top sandwiching in the insulation.I still have that shed and its pretty warm in there even when its freezing.Basically built a wall on the floor if that makes sense.

 

[Ryesty]

Ive built similar before,i put down 2x4s on end on the floor and then put r-19 down and plywood over the top sandwiching in the insulation.I still have that shed and its pretty warm in there even when its freezing.Basically built a wall on the floor if that makes sense.

That’s a great Idea. I could run a drain, water supply and my power conduit up through the new floor foam seal the penetrations insulate then put the plywood down. Then I’ll be ready to apply the floor sealant. Thanks for the input

 

[Freshone]

I also put a drain though the floor in mine,worked great.

 

[str8smokn]

I grow in the same thing , just smaller than yours.
I put down a sheet of plastic first ,vapor barrier; then I used 1”x2” on my floor and then filled the void with insulation and laid plywood down on top .
And I’ve completely insulated the whole shed .
It is a project until you get it.
Good vibes
STR8

 

[str8smokn]

And used pond liner for my floors.
STR8

 

[stonestacker]

Shower liner also would work better than visqueen.
Str8 how did you insulate the roof? Wondering about condensation on the inside of the roof.

 

[Ryesty]

Shower liner also would work better than visqueen.
Str8 how did you insulate the roof? Wondering about condensation on the inside of the roof.

That’s exactly what I’m worried about! I’m in construction and we have removed roofs that had the spray foam on the underside of the roof decking, it trapped moisture and rotted the roof decking out. But not always! We haven’t pinpointed exactly why some applications do this and some don’t. My plan is to insulate between the rafters then put insulation board attached to the bottom side of the rafters. Just not sure if this is a good idea. There are some roof vents that vent in between the plywood and the roofing system. I believe this would solve any trapped moisture issues. I don’t have enough height to put in a drop ceiling and insulate the same way a house is done. The outside temp. Dropped to 7 degrees last week and I was able to keep it at 60 degrees with the lights off. Getting closer but not there yet.

 

[str8smokn]

Shower liner also would work better than visqueen.
Str8 how did you insulate the roof? Wondering about condensation on the inside of the roof.

Yep I just insulated between the rafters also.
I know I’m going to have to replace that roof here soon , as In decking and so fourth.
But I have seen on Tv about some vents like @Ryesty was talking about.
I think they go in between the rafters and then you insulate and finish.
STR8

 

[str8smokn]

Like this.

https://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=diy.diy_rafter_vents
That’s what I will do once I replace mine.
STR8

 

[incogneato]

Like this.
View attachment 773940


https://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=diy.diy_rafter_vents
That’s what I will do once I replace mine.
STR8

I have those in an attic space, they work pretty good for airflow when installed properly

 

[stonestacker]

Ok so I don't have the answer, But what if you use rigid board insulation and ran it on the bottom of the trusses tape all seams. Allowing the rafter to breath out the soffit and ridge like a house. Just a though.

 

[Ryesty]

Ok so I don't have the answer, But what if you use rigid board insulation and ran it on the bottom of the trusses tape all seams. Allowing the rafter to breath out the soffit and ridge like a house. Just a though.

I do believe that will work. It will allow it to breath out of the soffit the way it needs to and prevent condensation.

 

[Freshone]

Use the thick foam board with the radiant barrier on one side and kill 2 birds with one stone.

 

[stonestacker]

I do believe that will work. It will allow it to breath out of the soffit the way it needs to and prevent condensation.

I don't know for sure if it will work. But that is what I would try.

 

[Freshone]

I don't know for sure if it will work. But that is what I would try.

It works stoney,thats how I did it.where I live blocking heat in summer is just as impotant as cold in winter hence the radiant barrier.

 

[stonestacker]

Condensation is a big problem in cold climates. It happens easier than you think and bam rot and mold.

 

[incogneato]

Both of those boards would work, you just need airflow but the r value is lower on those than traditional fiberglass. I would use 2x6 truss on the roof, use those ridge vents str8 recommended and use attic insulation. I guess it depends on what climate you're in.

 

[1diesel1]

Just got my shed running temps running close enough. This will be a continuously upgrade setup until I get it dialed in 100%. I’m from a very humid hot climate and now I live in a cold dry climate. So there has been a very humbling learning curve to say the least! It’s a 10 by 12 detached building with my equipment in the front 2 feet and the 10x10 area for the grow area. I insulated the walls with closed cell ISO board to insulate and eventually I’ll be able to create a completely sealed room. This silver board is great for this. After this small test run I will unscrew the board and insulate between the wall studs and screw the board back up and retape the seems to help stabilize the temps. I will also do the same to the roof rafters. I’m still not sure what to do with the floor. I don’t want to be walking on a closed cell insulation board but I can’t think of other way to insulate it at this point. I think I will have to install an insulation board and then put plywood on top of that. That will allow me to put a water proof coating on the floor turned up the wall a few inches in case of spills and for cleaning up good. Also this will give me my air tight seal also. Any Ideas on this or what has worked for you are greatly appreciated. For now I will run 4-1000 watt 8” air cooled hoods exhausting out the side I will run 6 soon but will be upgrading to LEC soon. Just not in the budget now and my lights are not completely out of date and still work good. I have ran a 30 amp 220 to an 8 light titan control box and a 15 amp line for the timer trigger cord, exhaust fan and the heater for when the lights are off. I bought a temperature controlled daytime night time fan controller and it is working great to control my temps. especially at night when heating with the lights. I definitely need at least one more 20 amp 110 line to help run additional components. I’m keeping my res. inside my house do to lack of power and I feed approx 10 gallons a day by hand until I set up my flood and drain bucket system after I get the apmosphere where it needs to be. For now I’m running feed to waste in coco perlite mix on some old flood and drain tables. Sorry for babbling, any advice or ideas are greatly appreciated. I’ll keep this updated as things progress.

Both of those boards would work, you just need airflow but the r value is lower on those than traditional fiberglass. I would use 2x6 truss on the roof, use those ridge vents str8 recommended and use attic insulation. I guess it depends on what climate you're in.

rigid board is Designed to be mechanically fastened in the roof system. It is not designed to be installed under the plywood with the roof on top. The best value you can get for the roof structure is bated fiberglass insulation. I suggest an r-30. With sheet rock to incapsulate the cavity. That will allow the climate conditions inside the roof cavity to breath therefore allowing condensation to be released. Rigid board will not do this it will stagnate the cavity and slowly, I mean real slowly create condensation and mold that will result in a long term condition of dry rot. One other thing I would consider for your floors and walls is a product called TPO (thermalplastic olefin) in 60 mill. TPO is a roofing product designed for commercial applications. It should be fully idheared to the floors and walls and has the highest reflctability then anything I’ve found ( I’m a 27 year commercial roofer with umpteen hours of research on this). You will be surprised how this product will blow up your flower room.

It is water proof if you know what your doing you can work wonders with it. It’s spendy but if you work in the construction field make friends with a roofer (that smokes) and he’ll be your best friend. Lol

 

[Ryesty]

rigid board is Designed to be mechanically fastened in the roof system. It is not designed to be installed under the plywood with the roof on top. The best value you can get for the roof structure is bated fiberglass insulation. I suggest an r-30. With sheet rock to incapsulate the cavity. That will allow the climate conditions inside the roof cavity to breath therefore allowing condensation to be released. Rigid board will not do this it will stagnate the cavity and slowly, I mean real slowly create condensation and mold that will result in a long term condition of dry rot. One other thing I would consider for your floors and walls is a product called TPO (thermalplastic olefin) in 60 mill. TPO is a roofing product designed for commercial applications. It should be fully idheared to the floors and walls and has the highest reflctability then anything I’ve found ( I’m a 27 year commercial roofer with umpteen hours of research on this). You will be surprised how this product will blow up your flower room. View attachment 774188It is water proof if you know what your doing you can work wonders with it. It’s spendy but if you work in the construction field make friends with a roofer (that smokes) and he’ll be your best friend. Lol

I actually do know a roofer, unfortunately it’s me. My dad started having me pickup the ground at about 5 years old.
I’m a Florida State Certified Roofing contractor. I have held this license since February of 1999. I’m very familiar with TPO and ISO board. The only time I can ever remember installing iso on a pitched roofing system was for a college. The entire job was specked out by a high end engineering firm. After the roof removal we installed a 3” ISO board that had slats attached to the iso every 16” and then osb was attached over that. The slats allowed for a small space in between the iso and osb to allow it to breath. We also installed a new facia system to allow it to breath out the facia. There was no over hang on these buildings. It seems to work great. Again I didn’t design this system the college had an architect/ engineering firm spec it out. We just did the labor. This job makes me think that iso can be attached to the bottom side of my rafter and there will be a gap in between the iso and the underside of the roof decking it will have airflow from the facia to the on ridge vent I will install. As for the floor. TPO would be great. We just don’t use it much. And I recently moved from Florida to Colorado so I can’t stop by a buddies shop and grab a piece. I do have a couple buckets of the vulkem 350 351 system left over I believe Im going to use. Good to know there’s a fellow roofer here.