Dimming Lights Towards End Of Bloom

[Ytransplant]

Glad you brought your 40 years of experience to the farm, welcome.
This observation is only about hid lighting right. Because with leds my tops are the frostiest usually. But the idea of letting it build up resins with less light is nice, i actually shorten the hours too. At the last week or two, i do 10/14, some say it makes them mature faster, some say more trichs, some say it doesn’t do shit :) i don’t have a big facility to do scientific tests, so i have no idea but my buds seems ok.

Keep in mind that there are now led's that can blast your plants with light...light burn is way different than heat burn from an HID being too close....resins are effected from TOO STRONG of a light as much as heat from being too close, which would be more common with the HID's of course.....I have seen PLENTY of light burn from LED's being too close, even though the heat is negligible....I feel LED lighting has Finally caught up in effectiveness, but you will pay dearly for a quality one...WAY TO MANY cheap Chinese LED'S on the market...
But in any event, whether HID or a qulality powerful LED, Toning down the light INTENSITY works great for me....I feel many are afraid that if they have all that power, they would short change themselves by running 50% or so....MORE THE BETTER philosophy has been practiced too much...If they can agree that their buds are ALREADY as big as they will get BEFORE ripening is in order, then toning down that powerful light wont effect their yields...Its just time to pamper those precious resins, THAT WE GROW FOR...YT....
BTW, WOW, for a thread a cpl yrs old, there were sure ppl standing by to share info...GOOD DEAL....maybe I'll show up at THCF more often...YT
Quick edit....I really forgot to mention that even if my intensity ISNT too much for the buds up high, where the existing ones are NOT negatively effected, BUT toning that intensity down has IMPROVED those existing trichs....bigger and better looking over all.....

 

[crimsonecho]

Keep in mind that there are now led's that can blast your plants with light...light burn is way different than heat burn from an HID being too close....resins are effected from TOO STRONG of a light as much as heat from being too close, which would be more common with the HID's of course.....I have seen PLENTY of light burn from LED's being too close, even though the heat is negligible....I feel LED lighting has Finally caught up in effectiveness, but you will pay dearly for a quality one...WAY TO MANY cheap Chinese LED'S on the market...
But in any event, whether HID or a qulality powerful LED, Toning down the light INTENSITY works great for me....I feel many are afraid that if they have all that power, they would short change themselves by running 50% or so....MORE THE BETTER philosophy has been practiced too much...If they can agree that their buds are ALREADY as big as they will get BEFORE ripening is in order, then toning down that powerful light wont effect their yields...Its just time to pamper those precious resins, THAT WE GROW FOR...YT....
BTW, WOW, for a thread a cpl yrs old, there were sure ppl standing by to share info...GOOD DEAL....maybe I'll show up at THCF more often...YT
Quick edit....I really forgot to mention that even if my intensity ISNT too much for the buds up high, where the existing ones are NOT negatively effected, BUT toning that intensity down has IMPROVED those existing trichs....bigger and better looking over all.....

I got what you’re saying. Yeah, i should try it before making any claims but i usually keep my leds at 18” so i may not be suffering from this greatly and my tops are usually the frostiest (big trics) and taste good. I may try it and leave a feedback if i do :)
If it works for you very nice. I don’t think lowering the wattage near the end will hurt the yields much, if any. But these are just assumptions, need to try before making any claims. You can come to farm whenever you like :)

 

[Ytransplant]

Maybe I should share an ounce of credibility, without boring anyone....But budporn is rarely boring...current crop pic...Closet is 4ft by 5ft with a 1k light on a mover...My days of LARGER operations are long over....4 current strains, Peyote Critical, Green Crack, BubbleBomb, AND Kong-47, which is a new one to me (never smoked it either)...I also have a beautiful Nirvana cut that gets swapped into the mix and a Incredible Bulk cut that gets swapped in....So, I'm in possesion of 6 strain, and wont add more for another 1.5 yrs when I'm getting the itch...I will discontinue one or two as I add so the nursery doesnt get out of control...also added one close-up of a finised bud from last crop (Peyote Critical)....all the other pics were taken btwn 6 and 7 weeks of flower...none of my current strains go longer than 8 weeks (Maybe 8.5 weeks with my BubbleBomb)......phone camera, so dont bash me on photography quality...LOL...YT

 

[crimsonecho]

Maybe I should share an ounce of credibility, without boring anyone....But budporn is rarely boring...current crop pic...Closet is 4ft by 5ft with a 1k light on a mover...My days of LARGER operations are long over....4 current strains, Peyote Critical, Green Crack, BubbleBomb, AND Kong-47, which is a new one to me (never smoked it either)...I also have a beautiful Nirvana cut that gets swapped into the mix and a Incredible Bulk cut that gets swapped in....So, I'm in possesion of 6 strain, and wont add more for another 1.5 yrs when I'm getting the itch...I will discontinue one or two as I add so the nursery doesnt get out of control...also added one close-up of a finised bud from last crop (Peyote Critical)....all the other pics were taken btwn 6 and 7 weeks of flower...none of my current strains go longer than 8 weeks (Maybe 8.5 weeks with my BubbleBomb)......phone camera, so dont bash me on photography quality...LOL...YTView attachment 841036 View attachment 841038 View attachment 841039 View attachment 841040 View attachment 841041 View attachment 841042

Looks very nice. Kudos. I may have to look into this a bit :)

 

[Ytransplant]

Looks very nice. Kudos. I may have to look into this a bit

Appreciate the compliment....In the 'crop pic', there are (6) 3 gal buckets....They are Modified Hempy style...Modified as in, a porous grow rock reservoir base with the addition of an airstone in each....A half dozen side by sides (literally side by side), the ones with airstones out vegged the ones without airstones nearly 2:1....Whether the porous grow rock captures and holds the air better, or since the pH stays more stable (which happens too with the stones), or whatever is happening technically, I use this hydro set up.....Started in 1979 with a standard drain to waste, went thru, wick systems, drip systems, flood and drain and eventually Water Culture....Every system and gimmick along the way over the yrs...Coming full circle back to DTW, which a Hempy system falls into....found NO OTHER hydro system that clearly grows buds any better..simple, effective, inexpensive, easy on us olded guys...Root systems that surprise DWC guys, and buds I'll put up against anyones.....I do take cuttings off the crop that is currently going flower...Once they root, I transplant into 16oz Hempy style solo cups....I get them thru a cpl toppingsWe
and with massive root balls by the time I'm ready for them...No mother plants needed and It gets me into flower FAST....We all know what happens above ground is governed by whats happening below.....each plant is prunned to ~ 10 main tops....So, there is Nothing special or unusual going on with the hydro system I choose to grow with....They ALL work well providing the basic grow parameters are being met...pH, TDS and moisture levels....Dont want to get off the LIGHT intesity thread subject, but just wanted to share what system I use...YT

 

[crimsonecho]

Appreciate the compliment....In the 'crop pic', there are (6) 3 gal buckets....They are Modified Hempy style...Modified as in, a porous grow rock reservoir base with the addition of an airstone in each....A half dozen side by sides (literally side by side), the ones with airstones out vegged the ones without airstones nearly 2:1....Whether the porous grow rock captures and holds the air better, or since the pH stays more stable (which happens too with the sts), or whatever is happening technically, I use this hydro set up.....Started in 1979 with a standard drain to waste, went thru, wick systems, drip systems, flood and drain and eventually Water Culture....Every system and gimmick along the way over the yrs...Coming full circle back to DTW, which a Hempy system falls into....found NO OTHER hydro system that clearly grows buds any better..simple, effective, inexpensive, easy on us olded guys...Root systems that surprise DWC guys, and buds I'll put up against anyones.....I do take cuttings off the crop that is currently going flower...Once they root, I transplant into 16oz Hempy style solo cups....I get them thru a cpl toppingsWe
and with massive root balls by the time I'm ready for them...No mother plants needed and It gets me into flower FAST....We all know what happens above ground is governed by whats happening below.....each plant is prunned to ~ 10 main tops....So, there is Nothing special or unusual going on with the hydro system I choose to grow with....They ALL work well providing the basic grow parameters are being met...pH, TDS and moisture levels....Dont want to get off the LIGHT intesity thread subject, but just wanted to share what system I use...YT

Nice, i would be suprised if you hadn’t found your prefered medium after 40 years. :)
I prefer to mix a nice living soil and just watch them take care of themselves. I have seen this method and it looks kinda nice, i’ve to admit. But generally hydro is not for me, all the reading and adjustments, not my forte :)
Yeah let’s not get too much off the topic but i would watch if you keep a grow diary anyways. Good weed is good weed.

 

[Ytransplant]

Nice, i would be suprised if you hadn’t found your prefered medium after 40 years. :)
I prefer to mix a nice living soil and just watch them take care of themselves. I have seen this method and it looks kinda nice, i’ve to admit. But generally hydro is not for me, all the reading and adjustments, not my forte :)
Yeah let’s not get too much off the topic but i would watch if you keep a grow diary anyways. Good weed is good weed.

Ahh, but there is no constant reading of numbers...once you choose a hydro method, within a cpl crops, you know your plants, the water you use, the nutrients you use and it is EXTREMELY simple...ppl need to pick out some quality nutrients and learn how to use them...if they are all over the place, they never master their own system...I dont use a TDS meter...I been using my product for over 20 yrs and make adjustments on how the plants look....I do use a ph meter but any good organic grower needs to understand their ph behavior just the same.....
Here what I could never understand about soil growing....how your organic mix GIVES UP nutrients is different with every mix and in WHAT RATIOS????...with hydro, its a quantifiable number...If a soil grower does not start with container big enuf to take them all the way thru flower, then they have to suppliment....If you dont suppliment with organic 'teas', then your not a true organic grower...Understanding the nutrients in soils, and the ratios they exist in, is next to impossible....It purely a guessing game at best...When is enuf, enuf if supplementing soil....MUCH harder to quantify ACCURATELY.....this is why its a fact that hydro outgrows soil SIGNIFICANTLY....It can be fine tuned and in perfect pH ranges....Of course, once a soil grower does a cpl crops, they learn their mix better, but it STILL cant be fine tuned and WILL become depleted as time passes and the plants grow....hydro medium in SOILLESS is chosen to hold the PERFECT air to water ratios too...Cant be replicated in on organics mix without 'cutting it' with products like perlite, AND THEN you've lost all that organic mix since perlite is inert.....
stable pH, medium with perfect water retention capabilities, Quality nutrients (in perfect ratios), is offering the plants perfect growing conditions.....I dont advocate against soil/organic growers, its just a fact the hydro is easier and outgrows soil significantly....With ANY SYSTEM, It needs to be learned and stuck with if someone wants consistent results....like you stated, good weed is good weed....mastering YOUR OWN method is the key with any system.
YT

 

[crimsonecho]

Ahh, but there is no constant reading of numbers...once you choose a hydro method, within a cpl crops, you know your plants, the water you use, the nutrients you use and it is EXTREMELY simple...ppl need to pick out some quality nutrients and learn how to use them...if they are all over the place, they never master their own system...I dont use a TDS meter...I been using my product for over 20 yrs and make adjustments on how the plants look....I do use a ph meter but any good organic grower needs to understand their ph behavior just the same.....
Here what I could never understand about soil growing....how your organic mix GIVES UP nutrients is different with every mix and in WHAT RATIOS????...with hydro, its a quantifiable number...If a soil grower does not start with container big enuf to take them all the way thru flower, then they have to suppliment....If you dont suppliment with organic 'teas', then your not a true organic grower...Understanding the nutrients in soils, and the ratios they exist in, is next to impossible....It purely a guessing game at best...When is enuf, enuf if supplementing soil....MUCH harder to quantify ACCURATELY.....this is why its a fact that hydro outgrows soil SIGNIFICANTLY....It can be fine tuned and in perfect pH ranges....Of course, once a soil grower does a cpl crops, they learn their mix better, but it STILL cant be fine tuned and WILL become depleted as time passes and the plants grow....hydro medium in SOILLESS is chosen to hold the PERFECT air to water ratios too...Cant be replicated in on organics mix without 'cutting it' with products like perlite, AND THEN you've lost all that organic mix since perlite is inert.....
stable pH, medium with perfect water retention capabilities, Quality nutrients (in perfect ratios), is offering the plants perfect growing conditions.....I dont advocate against soil/organic growers, its just a fact the hydro is easier and outgrows soil significantly....With ANY SYSTEM, It needs to be learned and stuck with if someone wants consistent results....like you stated, good weed is good weed....mastering YOUR OWN method is the key with any system.
YT

Well actually you can use other things instead of perlite, adding a bit of coco helps with aeration too. I’ll agree about not being able to calculate all the nutrient content but you can estimate and no parts that can fail, no electricity, no hoses, no chilling the water and checking the ph and ppms, no algae etc etc.
Setup is basic and yields are tasty and frosty. Also teas are fairly easy and i’ve been noticing a couple of those could go a long way, so no need to do much. If you know your mix and have been using it for a while you can more or less estimate when/if the nitrogen or potassium etc. will run out. So topdressing a week before your estimates will work fine. I personally do a super soil and go only water with 2-3 teas, no top dress.
I know hydro gives faster results, when you master any technique you will get good yields and quality weed too. I get it seems easier to you thats what you’ve been doing, i’m working with soil since i was 8. I know soil and peat mixes, they feel familiar and easier to me. It’s just a preference of course. Kudos to you for spending so much time in the pursuit of mastering in yours.

 

[LedsOrganic1]

That's a good explanation. I ended up turning them down . I'm not super confident in whether I should continue to do that in future crops but I guess I'll just expirment

Hey FooDoo, love your username btw... haha. Hey, so I’ve been doing my own experiments for the last three years.. if you are using a 1000w and have a dimming function, what are the dimming pre-sets, if any? I see you are running it at ~60%? You should finish your ripening period with higher Kelvin Temperatures for the last week-ten days or so, and the last few days try running at 7,000k up to 10,000k. It sounds crazy, I know. But it definitely packs on the trichome coverage. It’s almost like the plant thinks it’s gettimg closer to the sun and the additional Trichomes are like the plants natural sunscreen. (You can find some hps bulbs with higher amounts of blue) I have also experimented with FR during the last few days of flower, in conjunction with blue-white light. I have mine running on different channels and transformers (LED supplemental lighting) so I can just flip a switch or have those channels on dimming timers. It makes the plant think it’s outside and therefore you’ll get better taste and smell, without actually flowering outside. You can really do a lot with Photomorphogenesis (my main expertise) but imho, dimming the lights will only diminish the final product. Either dim the lights for the last quarter of their ‘day’ period for no longer than a week, then harvest or run your lights the same as always and decrease the hours of light for a week. -1Hr each day for 7-10 days and then do a full 24hrs (minimum) of darkness, then chop! Happy farming!

 

[HugeNugsRDWC.420]

The sun being lower on the horizon filters the sunlight differently making the light spectrum more towards the red than the blue spectrum during the final weeks of outdoor flowering. A way you could simulate this would be to add extra red light the last weeks of flowering.
From what I understand about the photosynthesis process is that the plant stores up co2 water and sunlight during the day and then uses that stored up energy during the dark period to produce the terpines and do most of their growing. Stopping the plant from getting light stops it from storing new energy thus triggering the plant into survival mode and telling it to send all available resources to the part of the plant that produces seeds ensuring its survival by future generations.
Not sure if it is true but I don't think it hurts.

 

[PickleRick]

I've been playing around with this idea of reduced light for the final weeks in a way not mentioned yet. Basically I run perpetual, so sometimes I have some plants that are ready to be flipped, and some plants that are on week 8 or 9, and could use an extra 7-10 days. So I just stick the finishing ones on the edge of the canopy. They probably get 1/3 of the lumens they would from the prime real estate, but if they are already done, I just see this as bonus time anyways. And that light they catch would normally just go to waste so its 100% free light. Either way it gives me a bit of leeway on when to do the final chop, and when to flip new participants in bloom room. Just need the extra space to do this, but Im not in a tent so that's one plus.

 

[dusty68]

Hi old thread. I'm 1-2 weeks away on my first grow/harvest and I am going try to dim the lights and go to 10/14. That makes good sense to me. any thoughts??

 

[shaganja]

I usually dont make it a habit to comment on forums 2 yrs old, but very recently, I was in a meeting about the subject of reducing light Intensity the last cpl weeks of flower...SO, Maybe someone will still see this and pick up the tip....I see that some do believe it replicates the fall sun better to reduce the intensity...this is of course why red spectrums are better for flowering since THAT DOES replicate the wave length late season....
I also dont make it a habit of posting info unless I am 110% sure about the info I post....One of a growers worse enemy is trusting TOO MUCH in forum info....There are way too many persuasive ppl in forums, that can only grow a good case of toenail fungus...
Spring of 2019 will mark 40 YEARS that I have been growing cannabis hydroponically....There is NOT a scenario, that I have yet to experience in that time.....Now to the subject at hand....reducing light intensity late flower.....It was a cpl decades ago, where seeing, what I call secondary buds, develope better resin densities..these are the buds, lower on the main colas and even the first cpl sets of buds that have a stem with length AWAY from the main stalk....Regardless of strain, this was occurring...why would these big main colas have less resin development than their neighboring buds a little lower....Years of pondering, AND comparisons (and I mean DOZENS), That buds love to be POUNDED with intense light to gain mass up till 5.5-6 weeks, considering strains that finish from 8-9 weeks...AFTER the mass is done, its all about ripening those resins that ALREADY exist....Raising lights was the key before Digital dimmers were available....Now, its a simple flip of a switch....Soon as this was realized, my Main colas were as frosty as my 'secondary' buds....Ripening resins is more of a delicate process than many realize....It is also QUITE POSSIBLE, and the main culprit, to evaporate resin....too intense of a light the last 10 days-2 weeks can cause more harm than good to the buds closest to the light, typically being you best main colas....Resins are a protective response, to UVB, pests, etc, but LATE SEASON in nature, has a sun much lower in the sky with a considerably reduced intesity.....I have seen it to be not as much of a concern when growing with like a 400w HID, CFLs, or other less intense lighting sources....BUT with 600-1000W hid lighting sources, YOU WILL BENEFIT, by reducing the output to finish ripening....I personally run a 1000w HID system...I reduce it to 50% the last 2 weeks and get resins that make your mouth water, all the way to the very top of the tallest colas....Again, not as important with less intense lighting, but VERY IMPORTANT with high output lighting....reduce it!!!... your buds are already as big as they can get, and its time to PAMPER your Trichomes and pump them up to their genetic potential...This is NOT based on scientific data, but is based on 4 DECADES of growing experience....IT WORKS!!!!...YT

this makes sense, considering when looking at nugs, the "shoulders" of the plant are always shinier than the tops. when growers enter cups, they take the flowers that are just under the tops. so if we turn them fuckers down toward the end, the tops should be just as nice as the shoulders. thnx!! this is huge!!

 

[dusty68]

Thank you Shaganja!

 

[ryan12313]

Hi old thread. I'm 1-2 weeks away on my first grow/harvest and I am going try to dim the lights and go to 10/14. That makes good sense to me. any thoughts??

how did it work out? good trich production?

 

[dusty68]

Yes, my yield was plentiful. I intend to do the same thing for my next harvest which is due in 2 weeks

 

[DreamwalkerJ]

The dark period is when the plants produce alkaloids and terpenoids. Killing the light for 48 hours before harvest stops new growth and lets the plants use up their stored energy in one last push to make trichomes. Some of it is also from the plant thinking "oh shit its getting darker, winter is here and i havent been pollinated yet, i better make myself real sticky icky to catch any pollen that might come my way. I am not a botanist or horticultural expert by any means, this is just stuff that I've learbed from 15 years of research. We really need to seperatre what has been pseudo- science, grower legends, passed on "tricks " and start paying attention to the actual science. If i am incorrect about any of this and anyone has anything they can reference as proof then I will gladly consider it but for now, these are the conclusions i have made based on the science; and research papers I have spent many hours learning as well as my own trial and error. I hope someone find this useful

 

[BroScience101]

this makes sense, considering when looking at nugs, the "shoulders" of the plant are always shinier than the tops. when growers enter cups, they take the flowers that are just under the tops. so if we turn them fuckers down toward the end, the tops should be just as nice as the shoulders. thnx!! this is huge!!

I don't remember my login info for my old foodoo account so I had to make a new name.

You made excellent points. I'd always take pics of bottom buds because they were more frosty and looked better or tops that were out of direct light which weren't beat on by intense light

 

[Jmonzon708]

I usually dont make it a habit to comment on forums 2 yrs old, but very recently, I was in a meeting about the subject of reducing light Intensity the last cpl weeks of flower...SO, Maybe someone will still see this and pick up the tip....I see that some do believe it replicates the fall sun better to reduce the intensity...this is of course why red spectrums are better for flowering since THAT DOES replicate the wave length late season....
I also dont make it a habit of posting info unless I am 110% sure about the info I post....One of a growers worse enemy is trusting TOO MUCH in forum info....There are way too many persuasive ppl in forums, that can only grow a good case of toenail fungus...
Spring of 2019 will mark 40 YEARS that I have been growing cannabis hydroponically....There is NOT a scenario, that I have yet to experience in that time.....Now to the subject at hand....reducing light intensity late flower.....It was a cpl decades ago, where seeing, what I call secondary buds, develope better resin densities..these are the buds, lower on the main colas and even the first cpl sets of buds that have a stem with length AWAY from the main stalk....Regardless of strain, this was occurring...why would these big main colas have less resin development than their neighboring buds a little lower....Years of pondering, AND comparisons (and I mean DOZENS), That buds love to be POUNDED with intense light to gain mass up till 5.5-6 weeks, considering strains that finish from 8-9 weeks...AFTER the mass is done, its all about ripening those resins that ALREADY exist....Raising lights was the key before Digital dimmers were available....Now, its a simple flip of a switch....Soon as this was realized, my Main colas were as frosty as my 'secondary' buds....Ripening resins is more of a delicate process than many realize....It is also QUITE POSSIBLE, and the main culprit, to evaporate resin....too intense of a light the last 10 days-2 weeks can cause more harm than good to the buds closest to the light, typically being you best main colas....Resins are a protective response, to UVB, pests, etc, but LATE SEASON in nature, has a sun much lower in the sky with a considerably reduced intesity.....I have seen it to be not as much of a concern when growing with like a 400w HID, CFLs, or other less intense lighting sources....BUT with 600-1000W hid lighting sources, YOU WILL BENEFIT, by reducing the output to finish ripening....I personally run a 1000w HID system...I reduce it to 50% the last 2 weeks and get resins that make your mouth water, all the way to the very top of the tallest colas....Again, not as important with less intense lighting, but VERY IMPORTANT with high output lighting....reduce it!!!... your buds are already as big as they can get, and its time to PAMPER your Trichomes and pump them up to their genetic potential...This is NOT based on scientific data, but is based on 4 DECADES of growing experience....IT WORKS!!!!...YT

Yessir!! I like this post right here. I just lowered light intensity on my mimosas at around 7 weeks. Makes more sense. To me. I’m running hydro table and rockwool

 

[ilona]

One thing i never did is go completely opposite i mean from 12 /12 to raising light hrs ,, So you finish up around 14 hrs of light,, now i might get some people thinking she is going to reveg or what ever but i forced flowered a plant out door left it in dark for 48 hrs then back into light for first 2 weeks i kept her at 12 / 12 when my daylight was actually 18 hrs of light :)
on 3rd week i have left plant outside non stop not covering it or nothing presently @ 17.5 hrs of say light and let me tell you all shes flowering made here is 28 days from flip .. i tell yeah big nugs already
So i am thinking going to try raising light hrs from 12 / 12 to final week 15 - 16 View attachment 525162 hrs on

Here they are a week ago

View attachment 518742

I feel like I already got every last bit that they can give awhile ago. I only let them go longer to ripen up the taste.

The tops are shooting out massive fox tails and white hairs and look worse than the shorter colas.

I just feel like the intensity is too much for a plant that's done packing on weight

Can anyone tell me how old this plant is by looking at the flowers?