DIY Top Drip Coco Pots

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roxy002

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Before I start this thread, I will begin by pointing out a few things:

Firstly, I was inspired by leadsled to begin this project, after reading his thread tutorial on DIY Top Drip Irrigation. But because I have made a lot of changes, and the overall system is different, then I thought it would be a good idea to start a separate thread. But, that being said, I would like to give credit to leadsled where its due, and say thank you for the inspiration.

Because the work is still in progress and the system isn't finished yet, then all comments, ideas and criticism is welcome!

Also, I will point out that I'm from the UK (England) so, so I wont bother mentioning what stores the parts where bought from, but I'm sure its all available wherever you are, just under different brand names.

This system isn't exactly technical, but does take a fair bit of planning. I'm sure everyone is capable of building something like this on whatever scale they need. As I said before, this isn't finished yet, so its all trial and error at the minute for me, so please add to the thread with your experiences. Once the system is complete, and has been tried and tested, and I'm happy with the results, then I may make a PDF for people to read.

Here goes:

The room I had to work with is 3.8 metres x 2.2 metres, and around 3.5 metres high . The set up will consist of 2 tables either side of the room, with a narrow walk way through the middle, like so:
 
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roxy002

roxy002

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The longer table runs the length of the room (3.8) and the second table is slightly shorter as the door way is at the end of the table. They are both approximately 850mm wide, which leaves a walk way of 500mm. The tables are constructed from 3 x 2 " CLS timber (although I have used some 4 x 2 " timber that I had hanging around)

They stand from the floor at 900mm high, and for the tops I have used 18mm sterling board/18mm chipboard.

I screwed a length of 3 x 2 along the length of the wall at 880mm high (take into account the 18mm board to be screwed on top. I fixed these ledgers to both sides of the room to suit the length of the table. They are fixed using brown plugs and 4" screws. (Note that I have not used 3 x 2 CLS timber throughout, as I already had some timber hanging about, so for the ledgers, I think I used 4 x 2.
 
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roxy002

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Next I measured out from the wall and marked on the floor the width of the table (In my case, it was around 850mm, as I wanted to leave around a 500mm walk way between the tables) Then I screwed another length of 3 x 2 to the floor at this width, making sure that the space of 850mm was the same at both ends. Also its important to check for cables and pipes underneath. There was gas pipes under my floor boards, so rather than leave anything to chance, I used the correct size screws, that was the same length as the thickness of the CLS, and the floor boards combined. I then sank them only slightly into the CLS. I didn't fancy calling out the gas board, in the middle of a grow room build!

Once you have done this, fix some studs to the base plate you have just fitted, at the same height as the ledger on the wall (but minus the thickness of CLS, and an extra 6mm or so)so this would be in my case 854mm, as minus 40mm thickness CLS, and an extra 6mm). I spaced mine at 1 metre centres, but 500mm centres would be the correct thing to do, its, just I didn't have enough timber at the time, but its fine as it is anyway. You can skew the screws in at an angle to fix to the base plate, but make sure you pre drill first, as to not split the timber. Then just fix another length on top of these studs (making sure the studs are plumb, using a spirit level) the same length as your ledger, to create a small stud wall.

Make sure the studs are nice and level and then screw the board on top to create a table. In my case I had to build my frame, and cut the board around a chimney breast, but it if you have a straight wall, it will be a lot easier. I will be using the chimney breast for extraction anyway, so this is a good thing for me!
 
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Once both tables were made The next stage was to fit some corrugated plastic (the stuff used for light weight roofing to allow water to run off) This was cut to 1" longer than the width of the table and fixed using clear silicone, making sure plenty was put on the joins.

Because one side of the table is 6mm lower than the other, this should be just enough to allow water to drip off. I marked the plastic out with a permanent marker and a level, then cut it using aviation snips (the sort used for snipping thin metal sheets)
 
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Now time to fit the guttering to the side of the table. I used some 76mm miniflo guttering. I did buy the brackets for this guttering that it clips in to, but later realised that they packed the guttering too much, so the plastic sheet was only just over the guttering!. So, to rectify this, I simply pre drilled the guttering and screwed it straight to the table. In fact, there is no need for the brackets, as this works fine without them. So you can save on money by not buying them, as its these parts that cost the most.

Obviously remember to have a slight fall on the guttering, as to allow the nutrients to run freely into the waste container that will be under the table. Once the guttering is fitted, then you will need to fit the connection on the end for the drain pipe to fit into. I bought these from the same shop, and they are simple to push together.
 
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I have not completed the longer table yet, but the guttering on this one will be slightly different, as the table is longer. The drain pipe will be in the middle of the frame, rather than at the end like the other one. So there will be 2 pieces of guttering the same length that will meet in the middle and fit into the down pipe connection that will then lead to the waste container. Obviously both lengths of guttering will have a fall on them into the middle.

So, as you can see by the CAD pictures at the very top of the thread, there will be a main tube running the length of the tables, with small tubing coming from this to feed the pots. There will be 2 reservoirs under the table, one for nutrients, and the other for waste. The pump will be placed at the bottom of the nutrient reservoir and connected to a timer, filling the main tubing on the table, which in turn will feed the plants. Obviously, this will need testing to get right, but once the pots start running off nutrient, this will then go through the drainage system and into the waste reservoir under the table.

I am still working on the manifolds at the moment, but here is a list of materials used to make them:

22mm speed fit PVC tubing
22mm speed fit stop ends
22mm speed fit Tees
22mm speed fit elbows
lengths of 6mm tubing cut at required lengths to reach pots
top hat rubber grommets for 6mm tube
6mm Tee connectors
 
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For anyone who's interested...here's an update...

For anyone who's interested...here's an update...

Well, the system is up and running for now, but I will be keeping a close eye on things, as obviously the project will need testing for a while before it can be classed as a stable system that works.

Few teething problems in the process, but nothing that couldn't be fixed. Man one being - Once the table, was finished and the guttering fixed into place, I tested the drip rings in empty pots. Because of the power of the pump, the flow of water onto the table was to strong for gravity to pull it down into the guttering before it spilled onto the wall, and dripped down the side. Obviously the table was sealed with silicone along the edge of the wall and the table, but ideally water should not touch the back wall all together. My thoughts, was that, when the pots are filled with coco, then the flow will not be as strong. Maybe? but To be sure I decided to alter the pitch. The easiest way was to just release the screws in the studs that are fixed to the base plate, and to push them behind the base plate and to put pressure onto the table, pushing the studs onto the floor boards, then fix them that way.
If I was to build one again, then I would have the table as steep as possible next time.

As shown in the picture, you can see how I have adjusted the studs.
 
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Next job was to complete the manifold...

When the parts arrived, I set out the main pipe and along the table and positioned the pots evenly along the table. I then marked out with a marker, exactly where I wanted the top hat grommets to be fitted. Before actually drilling the pipe, I tested on a spare piece of 22mm tubing different drill bit sizes, until I was happy with the fit of the grommet. I wanted them to push in as snug as possible. I think in the end I decided on a 10mm drill bit.
 
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Once all the grommets were fitted, I then cut to length the 6mm tube the fits into the grommet and goes to the pots. The tube outside diameter is 6mm, and the inside 4mm. I cut them slightly longer to give the pots a bit of movement if needed.
 
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Next job was to make the drip rings. once I had a piece cut to the right size to go around the diameter of the pot I used this as a template and then cut 20 to this size. Both ends fitted nicely into the tee giving a water tight seal.
 
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Once all the rings where made, I pierced the ring all around using a sharp spade drill bit.
 
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I found a bag of metal tent steaks, and decided to use these to hold the rings into the coco, as shown in the above pic.

After considering this, I realised that having the ring so close to the coco might clog the small holes I had made, and also, the coverage of the water might not be so even.

I came up with this idea...

To drill a small hole into the rim of the pot, exactly the diameter of the steak. Again, this meant a few test runs to get the right size. The metal steak was then pushed into the hole, allowing it to be moved up or down to get the right height. Once I was happy with the height, I then then taped it to the pot and fixed the ring to the steak. Originally I used some green wire to fix the ring to the steak, but then found some small tie wraps and decided these were better for the job.
 
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I connected the manifold to the pump using a normal garden hose pipe. The hose was connected at the pump end using the parts that came with the pump, and to connect the hose to the manifold end I used a straight 15mm compression coupler. Firstly though, I had to buy a speed fit reducer to connect to the 22mm pipe, allowing the 15mm coupler to be fitted. Also, a 15mm plastic pipe insert was put into the hose, as to allow the hose to be rigid and not kink when tightening the compression coupler.
 
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Another change of plan, was to have the nutrients re-circulating, instead of drip to waste. My only concern is that the drip rings might get clogged with particles of coco? I'm not worried about the pump, because its a pond pump and can pass objects up to 6mm in diameter if I remember correctly.

I was unsure what size pump to use at first, so finally decided to go for a 4000 litres per hour Bermuda pond pump. I figured that I would rather the pump be powerful, rather than too weak. Because everything can easily be taken apart, and extra pots can be added, the more power the better.

Once all the ladies were sat safely in their new home, and everything was ready I, left one drip ring in an empty pot and started my stop watch.

Rather than a "drip" the rings squirted, and caused a slight spray. After 1 minute, the empty pot had filled to a litre!

The run off, nicely found its way through its drainage system and back into the reservoir.

Based on this information, if anyone has any advice regards the feed schedule it would be appreciated. My last grow, I was using coco and feeding by hand - 1 litre per day to each pot.
 
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I am happy with the way things have gone so far, and cant believe how much time I was spending hand feeding my plants before, when this can feed them all in 1 minute! No more struggling amongst leaves, and bending down with the watering jug! My last grow suffered from mites and bud rot towards the end, and I think constantly brushing against the plants, to feed them contributed to the pests.
 
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If anyone can improve on this system, or has any comments/suggestions, then please post them. I'm sure there is things I have over looked or not thought of, so I look forward to any feed back.

I will keep this thread updated throughout the grow.:party0023:
 

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