Do you think this will finish okay?

[BigBlonde]

This plant is in the fourth week since the flip. It's in FFHF soil and I'm using FF nutrients at the recommended amount. I also began adding FF Bush Doctor Cal-Mag during the first week of flower. Thinking that is probably is a calcium deficiency, I doubled the dose of Cal-Mag at the last feeding two days ago. The other plant showed these same signs and improved with the Cal-Mag. This one hasn't improved, but it has wanted more nutrients from the beginning. My best guess is that I should have started the Cal-Mag sooner.

 

[GreenGalaxyFarm]

and this is happening only at the tops?

 

[BigBlonde]

and this is happening only at the tops?

Mostly, yes. It's worst at the tops. Lower leaves are showing it, but less so.

 

[GNick55]

light stress

 

[Stonemason7767]

I would have guessed to much calcium, but if the other plant liked it when you added more then mabey not.

 

[BigBlonde]

light stress

I wondered if that might be the problem, except the top of the plant is 22 inches from the light and the light is set just a little above 50%. The manufacturer say to run it at 100% during flowering at that distance. I'll turn it down some more and see how the plants respond. I had already turned down the light when I flipped them, though.

I would have guessed to much calcium, but if the other plant liked it when you added more then mabe not.

I'm guessing not because I've read that plants grown under LED lights need Cal-Mag while flowering.

 

[BigBlonde]

light stress

I waited till the lights came on this morning and lowered the power to both lights. I have a wattage meter on each light so I can precisely set the power. The lights are both the ViparSpectra XS2000 model, but one is newer than the other. The newer one has always seemed more powerful and that is the one over the plant showing symptoms of light stress. The other plant has some symptoms, but they aren't nearly as visible.

In vegetation, I had the lights set to 140 watts (35 watts/sq ft). When I flipped, I lowered them to 134 watts (33.5 watts/sq ft).

Today, I lowered the lights to 120 watts (30 watts/sq ft). That's half power for that model. So, I'm thinking the lights may be too powerful for the tent. Anyway, 30 watts per square foot is often recommended, so that's the level I set them to.

What I need to do is get better at reading the indicators of light stress. A few weeks ago, I thought about starting a thread to discuss it, but didn't do it.

 

[Anthem]

I waited till the lights came on this morning and lowered the power to both lights. I have a wattage meter on each light so I can precisely set the power. The lights are both the ViparSpectra XS2000 model, but one is newer than the other. The newer one has always seemed more powerful and that is the one over the plant showing symptoms of light stress. The other plant has some symptoms, but they aren't nearly as visible.

In vegetation, I had the lights set to 140 watts (35 watts/sq ft). When I flipped, I lowered them to 134 watts (33.5 watts/sq ft).

Today, I lowered the lights to 120 watts (30 watts/sq ft). That's half power for that model. So, I'm thinking the lights may be too powerful for the tent. Anyway, 30 watts per square foot is often recommended, so that's the level I set them to.

What I need to do is get better at reading the indicators of light stress. A few weeks ago, I thought about starting a thread to discuss it, but didn't do it.

I do not see that as light burn or Calcium def. The fox farms nut line up has something to do with this. I have never looked at that brand but I have seen people multiple times with problems such as yours using that line. What are you feed of each bottle and how often?

 

[BigBlonde]

I do not see that as light burn or Calcium def. The fox farms nut line up has something to do with this. I have never looked at that brand but I have seen people multiple times with problems such as yours using that line.

I have had nutrient problems from the beginning of this grow. I think it's because I wasn't familiar with the FF Happy Frog soil. I didn't realize that it doesn't have much in the way of nutrients out of the bag. As a result, I have not been feeding the plants well enough. I saw signs of calcium deficiency before I flipped, but didn't do anything about it at the time. For my next grow, I'm planning to use Ocean Forest soil. Meanwhile, I hope to finish this grow with a reasonable crop.

What are you feed of each bottle and how often?

I have followed the FF feeding chart, using nutrients at the recommended amount. I also began adding FF Bush Doctor Cal-Mag during the first week of flower. Thinking that it probably is a calcium deficiency, I doubled the dose of Cal-Mag at the last feeding a few days ago. I'll return to the standard dose for the next feeding.

Big Bloom (0 - 0.5 - 0.7)	15 ml
Tiger Bloom (2 - 8 - 4)	5 ml
Bush Doctor Cal-Mag (1 - 0 - 0)	5 ml

 

[elusiveshame]

If I had to guess, you’re low on nitrogen. My fox farm schedule shows using big bloom a few weeks into flower, so they’re recommending a 6-4-4 mixture as well as the big bloom and tiger bloom.

 

[BigBlonde]

If I had to guess, you’re low on nitrogen. My fox farm schedule shows using big bloom a few weeks into flower, so they’re recommending a 6-4-4 mixture as well as the big bloom and tiger bloom.

I agree they look low on nitrogen, but that could be the lights, too, I think. Big Bloom has zero nitrogen. Grow Big and Tiger Bloom have nitrogen.

I am using the Fox Farm schedule, too. I wish the schedule were by stages of growth rather than weeks. I'm in the 12th week now. It is the 4th week since the flip. We had a slow start.

I was using Grow Big (6 - 4 - 4) up to the flip. Then I started reducing the N.

 

[elusiveshame]

I agree they look low on nitrogen, but that could be the lights, too, I think. Big Bloom has zero nitrogen. Grow Big and Tiger Bloom have nitrogen.

I am using the Fox Farm schedule, too. I wish the schedule were by stages of growth rather than weeks. I'm in the 12th week now. It is the 4th week since the flip. We had a slow start.

I was using Grow Big (6 - 4 - 4) up to the flip. Then I started reducing the N.

Oops I meant grow big, not big bloom. You’re right.

My schedule says “extended veg cycle repeat week 4, extended flowering, repeat week 12”.

Have you adjusted or just followed the weeks?

 

[GreenGalaxyFarm]

I was using Grow Big (6 - 4 - 4) up to the flip. Then I started reducing the N.

plant could have really used some n for the flip stretch

 

[GrilledCheeze]

If I had to guess, you’re low on nitrogen.

This was my first thought but taking the opposite route of the obvious deficiency I wonder if we may have a lockout issue due to overfertilization? It's pretty well known that the FF nutrient schedule is pretty strong, so are you measuring the TDS/EC of your solution before watering? Is everything pretty tight with your temps and humidity?

 

[elusiveshame]

This was my first thought but taking the opposite route of the obvious deficiency I wonder if we may have a lockout issue due to overfertilization? It's pretty well known that the FF nutrient schedule is pretty strong, so are you measuring the TDS/EC of your solution before watering? Is everything pretty tight with your temps and humidity?

Agreed that they’re pretty strong. I typically do 50% after a month of not using nutrients, then slowly increase the amount until I switch to flower.

 

[BigBlonde]

My schedule says “extended veg cycle repeat week 4, extended flowering, repeat week 12”.

Oh, damn! When will I learn to read. Yes. My schedule says that, too. It was a FIM moment for me.

plant could have really used some n for the flip stretch

This plant has had short inter-nodal lengths from the beginning. In retrospect, I believe the light it's under is more intense at the same wattage as the other light, causing shorter internode distances. (Both plants have had the same soil and nutrients.) The lights are the same model, but they have different power supplies. I was probably running both lights too high, as well.

I'll get a comparison picture of the two plants soon. One plant is sitting on a box while the other plant is on the floor. Aside from light differences and possible genetic variation, they've had the same conditions.

 

[elusiveshame]

Oh, damn! When will I learn to read. Yes. My schedule says that, too. It was a FIM moment for me.


This plant has had short inter-nodal lengths from the beginning. In retrospect, I believe the light it's under is more intense at the same wattage as the other light, causing shorter internode distances. (Both plants have had the same soil and nutrients.) The lights are the same model, but they have different power supplies. I was probably running both lights too high, as well.

I'll get a comparison picture of the two plants soon. One plant is sitting on a box while the other plant is on the floor. Aside from light differences and possible genetic variation, they've had the same conditions.

I’d add a partial dose in your next feeding, though someone with more experience may have better insight.

 

[BigBlonde]

I wonder if we may have a lockout issue due to overfertilization?

I doubt it. I've had low nutrient problems from the beginning.

It's pretty well known that the FF nutrient schedule is pretty strong, so are you measuring the TDS/EC of your solution before watering?

I don't have measurement devices for TDS or EC. I did run the nutrients at half strength till flower, though.

Is everything pretty tight with your temps and humidity?

That I think I'm doing well this time. Here's a current reading:

 

[GreenGalaxyFarm]

It was a FIM moment for me.

not playing the blonde card ?

 

[GrilledCheeze]

I doubt it. I've had low nutrient problems from the beginning.


I don't have measurement devices for TDS or EC. I did run the nutrients at half strength till flower, though.


That I think I'm doing well this time. Here's a current reading:
View attachment 1323064

If your leaf surface temperature is 71F or above you should be good on your environmental conditions. In my tent the leaf surface temp sits around 8 degrees lower than my ambient temperature but that will be different for everyone.

I guess for the nutrients I don't have all the information. In your OP you stated you were following the recommended schedule with the addition of cal mag and bush doctor in flowering? You didn't have any issues until you made the flip?

The reason I suggested overfertilization, other than what I stated previously, is that people usually push the TDS in flower until you see a slight tip burn. What you are showing here looks like excessive tip burn with additional leaf necrosis indicating to me that the problem has amplified. That's also why I asked about your environmental conditions because if you're pushing the plants in that regard then the problem will be exacerbated. If you can't test the strength of your nutrient solution then it's difficult to rule out definitively.