feminizing techniques , just how do they do it and what do they use

Sonic Seeds

Hi guys after much talk to many people , i have found there to be a bit of secrecy to the subject of feminizing and the many techniques and products used to induce male flowers on female plants ,


I feel it important to keep track of whats what , and i do have plans of trying to make a few fem crosses , my goal is to make pineapple cheese cake , which is uk pineapple x uk cheese , both are females , i want lots of pollen from the pineapple , i need enough to pollinate 15 cheeses fully seeded ...

thanks guys ,


STS,CS,GA....I personally use CS cuz I dont know where to get the STS from...~ogr


Premium Member
What up sonic, the only one's I know besides flowering until way over ripe are:

Sodium Thiosulfate (STS)
Colloidal Silver
Gibberellic Acid (GA3)

edit: Looks like OGR beat me to the punch :D

Sonic Seeds

i got some stuff from spain about a year ago , it comes in 2 bottles , i have to find it tomorrow , i think its called fem x , one has silver some thing in it , i have been told the 2 bottles are different , 1 works most of the time , and the other will work if the first fails , its all in spanish though , will check tomorow , any heared of it ?


CS is easy to make, you just need some silver - needs to be good stuff, I think at least 97% pure, you can buy silver wire online or get something from the local jewellers or use old silver coins. Then you need a glass jar, some distilled water and a DC adapter, I have used a variety of voltages and amperages and all I have found is that a higher voltage results in a shorter brewing time, all the batches of CS I have made have worked to revert a female.

As far as I know, GA3 is for reversing males and won't work on females. As for STS, it requires precise mixing of chemicals to work properly, we have some details on that we can look over together and see if we can figure out, might take some experimentation but we have the basic knowledge to hand.
I got a big pot of STS coming bro. I also got GA3 in pure powder form but its illigal in holland. As for CS i tryed that it works but they say STS gives much more pollen, So for bigger seed runs i think STS is the way to go. I will let you know when got it in.

Anybody know where to get the product Stamin-It ? should be a ready to go spray.

Outlaw Grower

thank country mon from cannabisworld

the ingredients to sts are cheap and easy to find. dont dilute it too much tho or you'll get balls that wont ever open.

Originally posted by Country Mon:

First, a stock solution is made. It consists of two parts (A and B) that are initially mixed separately, then blended together. Part A is ALWAYS mixed into part B while stirring rapidly. Use distilled water; tap water may cause precipitates to form.

Wear gloves while mixing and using these chemicals, and mix and use in a properly ventilated area. A mask will prevent the breathing of any dust, which is caustic. STS is colorless and odorless, and poses minimal health risks if used as described here. (See material safety data sheet links below). Note that silver nitrate and STS can cause brown stains upon drying, so spray over newspaper and avoid spilling.

Part A: .5 gram silver nitrate stirred into 500ml distilled water
Part B: 2.5 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 500ml distilled water

The silver nitrate dissolves within 15 seconds. The sodium thiosulfate takes 30-45 seconds to dissolve.

The silver nitrate solution (A) is then mixed into the sodium thiosulfate solution (B) while stirring rapidly. The resulting blend is stock silver thiosulfate solution (STS).

This stock solution is then diluted at a ratio of 1:9 to make a working solution. For example, 100ml of stock STS is added to 900ml of distilled water. This is then sprayed on select female plants.

The STS working solution is sprayed on select female plants until runoff. Do the spraying over newspaper in a separate area from the flower room. You probably won't smell anything, but ventilate anyway. You now have what I call a "F>M plant"; a female plant that will produce male flowers.

After the F>M plant dries move it into 12/12 immediately. This is usually done three to four weeks prior to the date that the target (to be pollinated) plants will be ready to pollinate. Response times may vary slightly depending upon the strain. More specific times can be determined by trial with your own individual strains. In my trials it took 26 days for the first pollen. 30-35 days seems optimum for planning purposes.

So, assuming that a target plant needs 3-4 weeks to produce fully mature seeds, a strain that takes 8 weeks to mature should be moved into flower at about the same time as the female>male plant. A target plant that finishes flowering in 6 weeks needs to be moved into flower later (10 days or so) so that it doesn't finish before the seeds can fully mature.

A seeded individual branch can be left to mature on a plant for a bit longer, while harvesting the other seedless buds if they finish first. Just leave enough leaves on for the plant for it to stay healthy.


Within days I noticed a yellowing of the leaves on the F>M plants. This effect persisted for two weeks or so; after this they became green again, except for a few of the larger fans. The plants otherwise seemed healthy. No burning was observed. Growth stopped dead for the first ten days, and then resumed slowly. No stretch was ever seen. After two weeks the F>M plants were obviously forming male flower clusters. Not just a few clusters of balls, but complete male flower tops. One plant still formed some pistillate flowers, but overall it was predominantly male.

It is strange indeed to see an old girlfriend that you know like the back of your hand go through a sex change. I'll admit that things were awkward between us at first.

When the F>M plants look like they may soon open and release pollen, ( 3-1/2 to 4 weeks) move them from the main flower room into another unventilated room or closet with lighting on a 12/12 timer. Don't worry too much about watts per square foot; it will only be temporary.

When the pollen flies, move your target plants into the closet and pollinate.

A more controlled approach is to isolate the F>M plants in a third remote closet (no light is necessary in this one, as they are releasing pollen now and are nearly finished anyway). In this remote other closet the pollen is very carefully collected in a plastic produce bag or newspaper sleeve and then brought back to the lighted closet, where the target plants are now located. If this is done, be careful to not mix pollen types by letting the F>Ms dust each other. Avoid movement, or use yet another closet.

Take special care to not let pollen gather on the outside of this bag- a static charge is sometimes present. Drop small open clusters of blooms inside and then close the bag at the mouth and shake. Important: next, step outside and slowly release the excess air from the bag, collapsing it completely, so that pollen doesn't get released accidently. Point downwind; don't let it get on your hands or clothes.

This collapsed pollinated bag is now very carefully slipped over only one branch and is then tied off tightly at the mouth around the branch stem with a twist tie or tape, sealing the pollen inside. Let the bag inflate slightly with air again before sealing it off, so the branch can breathe. This technique keeps the entire plant from seeding. Agitate the bag a bit after tying it off to distribute the pollen. Don't forget to label the branch so you know which seeds are which. Other branches on this same plant can be hit with different pollen sources.

If no lighted closet is available, the plant can be moved back into the main room, but- be very careful: pollen is sneaky. After 4-5 days, the bag is gently removed and the plant completes it's flowering cycle.

Yet another method has worked well for me. I position the target plants in a non-ventilated lighted closet, and then I collect pollen on a piece of mirror or glass. This is then carefully applied to the pistils of one pre-labeled branch by using a very fine watercolor paintbrush. Care is taken to not agitate the branch or the pollen. No sneezing. The plant needs to be in place first; moving it after pollination can shake pollen free and blow this technique.

Regardless of technique, at completion you will have feminized seeds. Let them dry for 2-4 weeks.


I use the over ripe method, letting the plant go further then it should then plucking the male flowers from the bud's then taking the pollen to female of the same type.

I try to keep things as natural as I can.
I use the over ripe method, letting the plant go further then it should then plucking the male flowers from the bud's then taking the pollen to female of the same type.

I try to keep things as natural as I can.

Is it safe to assume that this is the only way to make female seeds while keeping everything 100% organic?