Fertilizing: Organics Vs Synthetic

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Samoan

Samoan

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Please feel free to post any of your opinions!

Currently, I am growing with CANNA Coco Coir and I am making use of Synthetic AND Organic fertilizers. Experimenting with both indoor and outdoor.

Fertilizing:

Organics vs Synthetic

Organic is all the rage. Understandably, organic growing techniques offer many benefits. Looking specifically at fertilizers, it's important to understand the advantages of both organics AND synthetics. Some will call them "chemical" fertilizers. In general, the word chemical carries a bad stigma. But water could be considered a chemical, depending upon definition. So instead, let's call them synthetics.

SYNTHETIC FERTILIZERS - are mostly or entirely man-made in origin. For example: phosphate rock can be mined, then treated with acid to extract water-soluble phosphate salts. This results in a phosphate fertilizer that is more potent than an organic source. This means less volume by weight is required during application. The upfront costs for the fertilizer are often less.

A liquid synthetic fertilizer may provide a quick release of nutrients to plants that are showing signs of malnutrition. Or a granular synthetic may have a special time release coating that supplies a low, constant supply of nutrients over a long period of months. Using synthetics allows for the replenishment of a single macronutrient if soil tests reveal a deficiency.

However, reliance on these fertilizers does little to promote beneficial soil microbes. Sole reliance on synthetics will not build a healthy, living soil profile. A first time gardener may find initial success using synthetics. This is good. With success, comes a continued desire to garden and to learn more. For long-term sustainability many gardeners choose to incorporate organic materials for both structure as well as nutrition.

ORGANIC FERTILIZERS - are derived from natural sources such as minerals, animals or plant by-products. Through the breakdown or decomposition of organics, nutrients are released for plant consumption. Microbes, including beneficial bacteria and fungi are a vital part of this system. This is because the nutrients that are tied up in organic matter are not immediately available for uptake. The decomposition or mineralization process is what reduces organic compounds to their inorganic forms. These ions are then transported in water to the root systems and thus absorbed by the plant.

This process could be likened to the extraction of a refined metal from a metal ore. It takes 2 tons of iron ore to make 1 ton of pig iron. Similarly, organic fertilizers are much like that unrefined ore. They still need to be processed. That's why a larger volume of fertilizer may be needed to reach NPK values that rival synthetics.

But utilizing organic fertilizers can be very beneficial in the long-term. You may find plants are heartier, more resistant to disease and pests. Using organic fertilizers can be a simple process if you are willing to buy a pre-blended, balanced commercial supplement. Or for the adventurous, you could acquire base components and blend them yourself. It can be a fun experience for the more advanced gardener.
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Info from (http://albopepper.com/fertilizing.php)
 
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Samoan

Samoan

260
43
I would be careful with that kelp meal it can rot your roots
I'm currently growing in Canna Coco Coir w/ a little perlite amended. -I read- @Seamaiden use RICE HULLS! I have been searching for it at feed stores here w/no luck....

everyone says "what would happen in nature"? -supersoil friends
-But they grow TREES!-You need land-land is expensive here, VERY

synthetic/organic

I use PROTEKT SILICA/CALIMAGIC/CANNA A&B/MENDOCINO HONEY/
&
EARTH JUICE PH DOWN - CITRIC ACID CRYSTALS
EARTH JUICE PH UP - POTASSIUM BI-CARBONATE
TAP WATER @ AROUND 166-177PPM and 7.3-8.6 PH (if I leave the pen for around three minutes, it will rise to the extent)
I pour mine from hose to container and let it sit for up to three days,-in the shade, at lower than 90'F higher than 70'F stirring it occasionally, and bubbling it before use for about an hour at least to eliminate any possible contaminants.

-and for CANNA A&B users-anyone switch to RAW and start tailoring?

I got started with OG BIO-WAR.-for pest control (broad mites)
Ever since I was turned on to MICROBES I have added to lifestyle!

Outdoor I will vegetate them for the whole day, bring them inside and OR turn on the T5 or the MH-I keep mine on all night until I bring them back outside...

When I flip to flower I transplant,-preferably ends in in 5 gallons. and leave outside-The Girls go into flower year around here

in

Waialua, Oahu, Hawaii, when placed outside.

I do have (kelp meal) thinking maybe in tea?


-But I haven't used it yet, I'm currently using

kelp liquid concentrate.-I have only used this a couple of times.

Foliar feeds w/ a
Fulvic Acid:Kelp mix w/ off gassed tap at a 5:2 ratio. PH at 6.2.

I made the Fulvic Acid by fermenting sphagnum peat moss and white vinegar for a couple of days and straining it. Won't use it past 3weeks flower...and using kelp liquid concentrate in AACT.

I also have been experimenting with Dr. Teruo Higa's EM-1 and than Making the ACTIVATED EM-1, and than making the Lacto-Bacilli serum and Em-1. Also caught some fresh fish blended and added to Em-1.-for fish hydrolysate...It has been a couple months and it's almost broken down...used twice in teas...couple small stank chunks in those tsp's....who-wee! worst smell ever when I bring it out....
 
Samoan

Samoan

260
43
I'm going to feed a fungal dominant tea now.-48 hour...Based off of Elaine Ingham's Basic Compost Tea recipe. -Including Humic Acid, @10tbsp. Liquid Kelp Concentrate @6tbsp/gal, in 15gal. And My Home-Made Fish Hydrolysate @10tsp/gal.

24 days into Flower
 
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Samoan

Samoan

260
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Kelp is excellent for roots. Careful with bad info.
Yeah, Ok. Kelp is good for roots, so better to utilize in veg and flower while roots are developing.-That's all I know so far about that...
Don't you have any better info on kelp than that? Come on man...careful with bad info...what is at supposed to mean? Don't mean shit to me unless you are referencing this 'bad info'...
 
Samoan

Samoan

260
43
Yeah, Ok. Kelp is good for roots, so better to utilize in veg and flower while roots are developing.-That's all I know so far about that...
Don't you have any better info on kelp than that? Come on man...careful with bad info...what is at supposed to mean? Don't mean shit to me unless you are referencing this 'bad info'...
Early Flower* "stretch"
 
dnewsome2

dnewsome2

2,020
163
Oh so you're breaking down to a usable solution first. I just don't like the idea of directly putting it in coconut couier and then having it Go Rancid.
 
Samoan

Samoan

260
43
Oh so you're breaking down to a usable solution first. I just don't like the idea of directly putting it in coconut couier and then having it Go Rancid.
Yes, Well Put. So with Kelp Meal -farmers will usually mix that into a "supersoil" mix?

I have read a few that ask about mixing in coco -the best answer to that I could find was that you will want really good microbial life to help break it down.

And only I have only been using the liquid kelp in Foliar and ACT.

Besides the Mendocino Honey I add to my nutrients with every water. It contains mollases, kelp, montmorillonite clay, and yucca extract.
 
CaliRooted

CaliRooted

1,536
263
I use Kelp meal in my soil before planting, I also use Kelp meal in my Tea's. If I'm wanting to use my Kelp after planting or what not I switch to liquid Kelp. Kelp have over 70 minerals in it along with hormones that help with growth. I use kelp all through flower and veg. If you look at synthetic nutes you will see Kelp is in many products today.
 
CaliRooted

CaliRooted

1,536
263
See you can drop mendo honey for molasses IMO, use kelp, molasses and some yucca in your tea's
 
Samoan

Samoan

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43
See you can drop mendo honey for molasses IMO, use kelp, molasses and some yucca in your tea's
Awesome Advice in which I will follow once I finish this Mendo.
I want to buy 5 gallon bucket of Mollases, maybe at the feed store?
As for Yucca schidigera -SAPONINS -would you recommend RAW?
 wetting agent
 help with nutrient uptake
 help sprays (pesticide) to spread and stick better to plant parts (use less)
anti-microbe
 anti-fungal
 promote beneficial microbial activity in the soil
 surfactant (reduces surface tension) better penetration
 bio-enhancer-added to products to make them work better
 manage excess salts (fertilizer build-up) in soil
 improve H2O penetration
 move spray solution into soil solution
 mildew cure (fungus)
 miticide (soapy quality suffocates mites)
 minimize wash-off (plant leaves)
 spray binder
 flushing of plants [cleaner than molasses (saponins in blue agave)
 triggers plants defensive response to anaerobic fungi
 biochemical inhibitors
 boosts potency of other products (adjuvant

I'm currently looking into other Organics to use containg SAPONIN
 
Samoan

Samoan

260
43
@CaliRooted

SWC – Seaweed Concentrate – Kelp, but treated with an acid to increase solubility. This akin to Orange Juice vs Tang, (Not sure who said that first, it was someone over at LOS Forum, cheers to them, it’s a perfect metaphor).

Ascophyllum nodosum extracts contain various betaines and betaine-like compounds. In plants, betaines serve as a compatible solute that alleviates osmotic stress induced by salinity and drought stress; however, other roles have also been suggested, such as enhancing leaf chlorophyll content of plants following their treatment with seaweed extracts. Yield enhancement effects due to improved chlorophyll content in leaves of various crop plants have been attributed to the betaines present in the seaweed. It has been indicated that betaine may work as a nitrogen source when provided in low concentration and serve as an osmolyte at higher concentrations Betaines have been shown to play a part in successful formation of somatic embryos from cotyledonary tissues and mature seeds of tea. – The use of seaweed-based products from Ecklonia maxima and Ascophyllum nodosum as control agents for Meloidogyne chitwoodi and M. hapla on tomato plants

Application of seaweeds and seaweed extracts triggers the growth of beneficial soil microbes and secretion of soil conditioning substances by these microbes. As mentioned, alginates affect soil properties and encourage growth of beneficial fungi. Ishii and others (2000) observed that alginate oligosaccharides, produced by enzymatic degradation of alginic acid mainly extracted from brown algae, significantly stimulated hyphal growth and elongation of arbuscular mycorrhizal (AM) fungi and triggered their infectivity on trifoliate orange seedlings. – Seaweed Extracts as Biostimulants of Plant Growth and Development
 
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