First RDWC Grow - Taking the Deep Water Culture Plunge

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SweetLeafGrow

SweetLeafGrow

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Greetings Cultivators!

I have 3 full grows under my belt indoors in soil but now am opening a new chapter and taking the plunge into RDWC. I have been impressed with folks growing this way and so I decided to give it a shot but I have to admit, I feel like I am starting all over again....twice even....I am also going to be running 3 plants in my outdoor greenhouse this summer and that will also be a first for me. WTF am iI doing? 😁

So starting over but with a bit of knowledge about this beautiful plant, here is my setup.

I will most likely be running a clone that I am getting from @ImpulsiveGrower, probably the 🍎and🍌 by CLTVD.
Will be running live bacteria
MarsHydro TSW 2000 LED
Spider Farmer 3x3 with SF carbon filter and inline fan
PA Hydroponics Single Plant Fallponics Hydro System
HM Digital Hydro Master EC/PPM-PH-Temp res monitor
HydroGuard
Humboldts Secret Nutrients (the following formulas)
-Base A and B
-Golden Tree
-Tree Trunk
-Cal/Mag/Iron
-Sweet and Sticky
-Flower Stacker
-Enzymes

RO water
clay rocks
misc fans

I guess I am not quite sure exactly how to get started, especially with mixing the nutrients, so I am hoping to find one of the experts here at the farm who might be willing to guide me along the way. Humboldts Secret says they are good for any growing media including hydro. It was easy peasy with soil, just followed the chart below. Not so sure how to do this with hydro so that is where I feel I am needing the most guidance.

I am going to do some reading and trying to see if I can get a bit more up to speed. I've got some time before the clone arrives and I still need to fix one small leak in the system that is making me a bit crazy right now....but I will get it soon.

Humboldts Secret Feeding Chart
IMG 0541
IMG 0542
IMG 0543
 
SweetLeafGrow

SweetLeafGrow

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Things that leak frustrate me...think I got all the leaks plugged but I'm running out of fingers 🙃

So I am learning that Humboldts Secret Part A and B + Golden Tree are the essential plant nutes and the others are "additives". Not exactly sure how to incorporate them into the nutrient mix and ppm's except that you add the silica first because it messes with the ph so much. I'm looking for a good online resource that would help me solve this nutrient puzzle for me or someone here at the Farm who might have a bit of time to walk alongside as I learn this new approach to cultivation and how to feed these beautiful plants.
 
steamroller

steamroller

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I got nothing on the system or method, but fish breeder knows a little about boxing water .
Keep the system running and small leaks may resolve themselves, especially when you will be adding nutrients [ hardness].
I always used proper rubber gaskets on bulkheads[ inside where the water is ] and never had issues .
The nutrient puzzle is what I am here for myself.
I would guess unlike soil you need to add everything and anything everytime you think your plants want or can use them ?
I guess alot depends on how often you change water/ reservoir.
 
SweetLeafGrow

SweetLeafGrow

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Yea, all stuff I need to figure out. I'm confident once I get everything dialed in, it's going to be a good match for me.

BTW, I'm pretty sure I got all the leaks sealed up and ready to go, thanks for the great advice. I will change out the water that is in there now because I did use some plain well water during the whole process so gonna get it emptied out and refilled with straight RO water and then get ready for nutes and a certain 🍎 & 🍌 clone that I am super excited about.
 
Cashmeh

Cashmeh

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Since your running live I would recommend covering that white pvc pipe with a towel or paint it black. I also dont like how the sight guage leaks light.

Warmer water temps encourage microbial growth. Pythium loves light from what ive seen. It will actually outpace your bacteria since its doesnt need light. Basically if you eliminate all light leaks the hydroguard wont have to work hard at all.

If you can defeat root rot at 72F you will love growing in live systems.

As for your nutrient line, I like to keep it simple and use what most others use. But it seems like you have done your homework on these nutrients so we shall see.

I'd look into testing equipment for NPK individually. My biggest challenge was knowing what to add and when. Heres what I got. . ignore the co2 stuff.

I try to stay at 100ppm calcium, 120ppm nitrate, 0 ppm nitrite, 100ppm phosphate, 150 ppm potassium, 5.6 ph, ppms around 600. Leaf temps 76, water temps never drop below 72. 0 res changes lol. . 0 enzymes. . but I transplant. .so tehnically my veg res is 3 weeks old and my flower res is 2 months old. This run its getting some foam in the external res for some reason. Oh well. . shits fire. . and fast.
 
Screenshot 20220428 1322072
Screenshot 20220428 132147
SweetLeafGrow

SweetLeafGrow

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Since your running live I would recommend covering that white pvc pipe with a towel or paint it black. I also dont like how the sight guage leaks light.
Thanks for the advice Cash! What is the purpose of black paint? Do you think the PVC lets light through? That is some thick plastic and I would be surprised if light gets through that, but I could be wrong for sure! Light will leak through that port where the 3" line goes to the res and I plan on plugging that light leak when I actually get everything up and running.

I also found several hydro feeding charts like this one-


I may have to experiment with these and my nute lineup to see what works and does not work. If anyone has direct experience with Humboldts Secret or similar nutrient formulas it would be awesome if they shared their knowledge but I think I have enough to get going and have some successes in this new endeavor to make some awesome cancer medicine and lots of it!
 
Moe.Red

Moe.Red

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Hey Sweetleaf! Welcome to the watery club!

Do this right and you will have explosive growth. Get ready for a fast flip or to crop and scrog the crap out of it or you will run out of headroom in the stretch. Ask me how I know lol.

I'd also look at maybe dropping that water level to below the net pots.

For your leaks, I'll assume this is from the 3" lines because your vinyl input hoses should be above the waterline - which is what makes it fallponics. I had a hell of a time with some of mine too and honestly it took me many grows to get them 100% dry. Once you are into the grow, you will not really be able to do much plumbing repair, so definitely worth it to run for a few weeks without plants and make sure you got it nailed down.

I've been running this system for I guess 6 years now in multiple tents, if ya run into trouble give me a shout. I hope you love it as much as I love mine.

PS - I'm no help on the nutrients, I run General Hydro.
 
Cashmeh

Cashmeh

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Thanks for the advice Cash! What is the purpose of black paint? Do you think the PVC lets light through? That is some thick plastic and I would be surprised if light gets through that, but I could be wrong for sure! Light will leak through that port where the 3" line goes to the res and I plan on plugging that light leak when I actually get everything up and running.

I also found several hydro feeding charts like this one-


I may have to experiment with these and my nute lineup to see what works and does not work. If anyone has direct experience with Humboldts Secret or similar nutrient formulas it would be awesome if they shared their knowledge but I think I have enough to get going and have some successes in this new endeavor to make some awesome cancer medicine and lots of it!
So that white pvc does leak light even being as thick as it is. Cover the end with your hand and look through it.
 
Moe.Red

Moe.Red

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Warmer water temps encourage microbial growth. Pythium loves light from what ive seen. It will actually outpace your bacteria since its doesnt need light. Basically if you eliminate all light leaks the hydroguard wont have to work hard at all.
I've read this several times now and I am not sure what you mean.

Pythium likes light? but BB does not? This is very confusing to me as neither use light directly.

If you google "does Pythium use light" or derivatives, there is nothing about it.


Pythium was misclassified for over 150 years as fungus! It is not actually one at all, and instead belongs in the family Pythiaceae of the class Oomycete. These are fungal-like organisms that grow mycelium made of cellulose and produce spores called oospores and zoospores.
Pythium is one of most the common causes of seed rot, damping-off and root rot in hydroponics. There are many species within the genus Pythium that can produce root rots, all of which have slightly different growth habits, characteristics and environmental requirements for growth.
Pythium

In the same oomycetes class as pythium you’ll also find phytophthora, which leads to very similar symptoms of root rot but at the same time can also attack above-the-ground plant material causing blight, fruit rots and stem rots. Fear not though, the root rot symptoms of pythium and phytophthora are very similar and so are the preventative measures and treatments.
 
Cashmeh

Cashmeh

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when lights gets into the reservoir it is likely to grow algae.. the algae will consume the oxygen in the water and that will lead to root rot...
I guess I didnt understand the process well enough. I knew that light leaks lead to the increase in pythium. I just didnt know how exactly until 5 min ago lol. .
I've read this several times now and I am not sure what you mean.

Pythium likes light? but BB does not? This is very confusing to me as neither use light directly.

If you google "does Pythium use light" or derivatives, there is nothing about it.


Pythium was misclassified for over 150 years as fungus! It is not actually one at all, and instead belongs in the family Pythiaceae of the class Oomycete. These are fungal-like organisms that grow mycelium made of cellulose and produce spores called oospores and zoospores.
Pythium is one of most the common causes of seed rot, damping-off and root rot in hydroponics. There are many species within the genus Pythium that can produce root rots, all of which have slightly different growth habits, characteristics and environmental requirements for growth.
Pythium

In the same oomycetes class as pythium you’ll also find phytophthora, which leads to very similar symptoms of root rot but at the same time can also attack above-the-ground plant material causing blight, fruit rots and stem rots. Fear not though, the root rot symptoms of pythium and phytophthora are very similar and so are the preventative measures and treatments.
 
Moe.Red

Moe.Red

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when lights gets into the reservoir it is likely to grow algae.. the algae will consume the oxygen in the water and that will lead to root rot...
I guess I didnt understand the process well enough. I knew that light leaks lead to the increase in pythium. I just didnt know how exactly until 5 min ago lol. .
I get you. Yes, light leaks bad. I've never had algae and I use the 3" PVC still white. I'll look closer, maybe I just never noticed.
 
Cashmeh

Cashmeh

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163
I get you. Yes, light leaks bad. I've never had algae and I use the 3" PVC still white. I'll look closer, maybe I just never noticed.
I get a white biofilm wherever light enters ususally on the rubber tubing. Idk if thats algae or what. I guess I still dont fully understand it all. So my BBS use the 02, the pytium doesnt. Yet Light leaks will make algie grow off my nutrients, which in turn uses 02 in the water. The lack of 02 at the roots will cause root rot?
See i really havnt messed with root rot since I fixed all my light leaks. Like im almost positive I could ditch the hydroguard. I only add it at the start, 2 months later still white roots. Idk. . This shit confuses the hell out of me. Im not the science guy, im just the guy who is good at applying others logic to my own projects, not even understanding fully how it all works lol.
 
Moe.Red

Moe.Red

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I just ran downstairs and took these pics for ya

9CB91E3E 9792 49BA ADCD 29F307F3F3A5

BF40A8A4 CE0B 487F BB15 3227C2906B62

E8824908 3279 4019 B258 16DF6F408762


That is aquarium bio media. I build a little fort areound the 3” return, aerate the shit out of it and I just keep the same bacterial colonies from run to run. No need to continue to buy hydrogaurd.

Light color is new compared to colonized.

You can even start up a new system by moving the bio media.
 
Smokey0418

Smokey0418

172
43
Greetings Cultivators!

I have 3 full grows under my belt indoors in soil but now am opening a new chapter and taking the plunge into RDWC. I have been impressed with folks growing this way and so I decided to give it a shot but I have to admit, I feel like I am starting all over again....twice even....I am also going to be running 3 plants in my outdoor greenhouse this summer and that will also be a first for me. WTF am iI doing? 😁

So starting over but with a bit of knowledge about this beautiful plant, here is my setup.

I will most likely be running a clone that I am getting from @ImpulsiveGrower, probably the 🍎and🍌 by CLTVD.
Will be running live bacteria
MarsHydro TSW 2000 LED
Spider Farmer 3x3 with SF carbon filter and inline fan
PA Hydroponics Single Plant Fallponics Hydro System
HM Digital Hydro Master EC/PPM-PH-Temp res monitor
HydroGuard
Humboldts Secret Nutrients (the following formulas)
-Base A and B
-Golden Tree
-Tree Trunk
-Cal/Mag/Iron
-Sweet and Sticky
-Flower Stacker
-Enzymes

RO water
clay rocks
misc fans

I guess I am not quite sure exactly how to get started, especially with mixing the nutrients, so I am hoping to find one of the experts here at the farm who might be willing to guide me along the way. Humboldts Secret says they are good for any growing media including hydro. It was easy peasy with soil, just followed the chart below. Not so sure how to do this with hydro so that is where I feel I am needing the most guidance.

I am going to do some reading and trying to see if I can get a bit more up to speed. I've got some time before the clone arrives and I still need to fix one small leak in the system that is making me a bit crazy right now....but I will get it soon.

View attachment 1245366 View attachment 1245363 View attachment 1245364 View attachment 1245365
Looks good, built one myself that’s very similar.
I have watched pa’s video and he uses the same stuff, gas pipe pvc . It’s thick and light does not penetrate though .
I would try to keep it simple , with a 2 part fertilizer without all the magic additives, but that’s just me.

Enjoy and good luck with the grow.
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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Count me in!!! I live seeing the amazement of new hydro growers.

If i can help in any way feel free to tag me anytime you like.

A couple things i might add or change is.

I always recommend hydrogaurd but since new products coming out all the time i would change that to defgaurd… sane bacteria better bang for buck.

You will need to add a ph buffer. Ill add a link on that and they need to be added first

Res temps of around 70-72 are great for growth.

Best bang for buck on ph down is 85% food grade phosphoric acid

Top feed once a week to keep your clay balls and roots above the water line inoculated. Plus it rinses any salt build up out. Can do that just by acooping from the res.

Change res only when you add back the actual water volume of water it holds… this saves on wasting nutrients for no reason. You may go 3 weeks without at the start and 3 days at the end. Using this method it keeps things in balance.

Ill post a link on how i do add backs to steer and maintain ppm. Its more advanced but easy once you get it.

Keep it as simple as you can and document water temp, ppm, ph and top ups if needed daily.

Will add link in the next post
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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smokedareefer

smokedareefer

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I just ran downstairs and took these pics for ya

View attachment 1246183
View attachment 1246184
View attachment 1246185

That is aquarium bio media. I build a little fort areound the 3” return, aerate the shit out of it and I just keep the same bacterial colonies from run to run. No need to continue to buy hydrogaurd.

Light color is new compared to colonized.

You can even start up a new system by moving the bio media.
Moe, do you pay attention to actual DO readings?
 

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