First RDWC Grow - Taking the Deep Water Culture Plunge

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Moe.Red

Moe.Red

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Anything that eats a leaf doesn't care if the roots are always wet or in soil.


Aphids​

These minute sap-sucking insects target the xylem, or vascular system, of plants. These internal tubes ferry water and dissolved nutrients throughout the plant. Aphids use their mouthparts to puncture plant tissue and siphon this precious liquid.

A handful of aphids can satisfy their needs without doing too much harm, but they multiply fast. When their numbers get out of control, they can quickly suck a plant dry. Without enough circulating nutrients, hydroponic cannabis plants become stunted and deprived. There are around 5,000 species of aphids, and each one generally targets a particular plant species. The hemp aphid (Phorodon cannabis) has a ravenous appetite for, well, cannabis sap.

Root Aphids​

Root aphids aren’t dissimilar to their above-ground cousins. Instead of sucking sap from leaves and stems, though, they target the roots. However, the life cycle starts on the aerial parts of the plant. Once the eggs hatch, these critters migrate downward. Yes, root aphids also impact hydroponic cannabis plants!


Spider Mites​

Spider mites often show up in hydroponic cannabis grows. As a species of mite, the “spider” in their name merely refers to the silk webs they spin in order to protect their colonies from predators. These tiny pests hang out on the underside of leaves, frequently piercing plant tissue to feed on cells. Once a spider mite colony achieves a respectable size, it can do some real damage.

Fungus Gnats​

Although they’re pests in the eyes of hydroponic cannabis growers, fungus gnats play a crucial ecological role. They feast on fungi in the soil, contribute to the decomposition of organic matter, and even carry pollen and fungal spores. Despite their vital function, fungus gnat larvae have a habit of damaging cannabis root hairs, and the adults carry diseases, such as “damping off”, that kill seedlings.

Whiteflies​

Another sap-sucker, whiteflies also dwell on the underside of leaves. After dining on sap, they excrete a sticky substance that accumulates and attracts other pests and contributes to the growth of moulds. Whiteflies can work their way through vents, or simply fly through open windows and doors, and lay their eggs in circular groups of 30–40 on cannabis leaves.

Thrips​

Thrips love the conditions of indoor growing environments. The controlled temperatures, consistent lighting, and abundance of water in hydroponic setups is a haven for these creatures. Surprise, surprise—thrips also have a penchant for cannabis sap. Think about it. This rich substance contains all of the nutrients plants need to survive. Why wouldn’t they tuck in?

But thrips don’t just pose a direct physical threat to your hydroponic cannabis plants. This pest also carries over viruses that cause plant disease. You don’t want them anywhere near your indoor grow.
 
Cashmeh

Cashmeh

2,007
263
Anything that eats a leaf doesn't care if the roots are always wet or in soil.


Aphids​

These minute sap-sucking insects target the xylem, or vascular system, of plants. These internal tubes ferry water and dissolved nutrients throughout the plant. Aphids use their mouthparts to puncture plant tissue and siphon this precious liquid.

A handful of aphids can satisfy their needs without doing too much harm, but they multiply fast. When their numbers get out of control, they can quickly suck a plant dry. Without enough circulating nutrients, hydroponic cannabis plants become stunted and deprived. There are around 5,000 species of aphids, and each one generally targets a particular plant species. The hemp aphid (Phorodon cannabis) has a ravenous appetite for, well, cannabis sap.

Root Aphids​

Root aphids aren’t dissimilar to their above-ground cousins. Instead of sucking sap from leaves and stems, though, they target the roots. However, the life cycle starts on the aerial parts of the plant. Once the eggs hatch, these critters migrate downward. Yes, root aphids also impact hydroponic cannabis plants!


Spider Mites​

Spider mites often show up in hydroponic cannabis grows. As a species of mite, the “spider” in their name merely refers to the silk webs they spin in order to protect their colonies from predators. These tiny pests hang out on the underside of leaves, frequently piercing plant tissue to feed on cells. Once a spider mite colony achieves a respectable size, it can do some real damage.

Fungus Gnats​

Although they’re pests in the eyes of hydroponic cannabis growers, fungus gnats play a crucial ecological role. They feast on fungi in the soil, contribute to the decomposition of organic matter, and even carry pollen and fungal spores. Despite their vital function, fungus gnat larvae have a habit of damaging cannabis root hairs, and the adults carry diseases, such as “damping off”, that kill seedlings.

Whiteflies​

Another sap-sucker, whiteflies also dwell on the underside of leaves. After dining on sap, they excrete a sticky substance that accumulates and attracts other pests and contributes to the growth of moulds. Whiteflies can work their way through vents, or simply fly through open windows and doors, and lay their eggs in circular groups of 30–40 on cannabis leaves.

Thrips​

Thrips love the conditions of indoor growing environments. The controlled temperatures, consistent lighting, and abundance of water in hydroponic setups is a haven for these creatures. Surprise, surprise—thrips also have a penchant for cannabis sap. Think about it. This rich substance contains all of the nutrients plants need to survive. Why wouldn’t they tuck in?

But thrips don’t just pose a direct physical threat to your hydroponic cannabis plants. This pest also carries over viruses that cause plant disease. You don’t want them anywhere near your indoor grow.
I get that now, so its possible, im guess since the grows are small and contained it makes it easier. Im sure if I had an outdoor garden and brought some plants inside and mixed, I would be taken over by something.
So next question, for @Aqua Man mainly cause he specializes in alkalinity understanding, which im sure you do too. Anyways, is it safe to say that adding alkalinity to water is like adding a catalatic converter to a car. There are specific solids that disolve and act like catalistsys for our chemicle reactions, which lower or raise ph. If I add specific things, I will lower the shockwave through out the system. Instead of the reactions taking place in the water, they can take place near the specific catalistys and instead of those ions being released into the water, they are released into the catalists? But. . what about PGRS or dissolved metals and say silica. Those can be uptaken and possibly smoked right? So is there a chance that adding alkalinity can be harmeful? Will it lower terps or anything? Idk. . just pondering with the brains around here.
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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I get that now, so its possible, im guess since the grows are small and contained it makes it easier. Im sure if I had an outdoor garden and brought some plants inside and mixed, I would be taken over by something.
So next question, for @Aqua Man mainly cause he specializes in alkalinity understanding, which im sure you do too. Anyways, is it safe to say that adding alkalinity to water is like adding a catalatic converter to a car. There are specific solids that disolve and act like catalistsys for our chemicle reactions, which lower or raise ph. If I add specific things, I will lower the shockwave through out the system. Instead of the reactions taking place in the water, they can take place near the specific catalistys and instead of those ions being released into the water, they are released into the catalists? But. . what about PGRS or dissolved metals and say silica. Those can be uptaken and possibly smoked right? So is there a chance that adding alkalinity can be harmeful? Will it lower terps or anything? Idk. . just pondering with the brains around here.
In terms of heavy metals organics are the biggest worry.

most plants dont discriminate against uptaking heavy metals so that always a concern. Synthetic ferts undergo more stringent testing.

plants use nutrients to create compounds, tissues etc. its not as simple as if it takea it up it will be smoked.

in terms of ph you must account for chemical reactions that can effect the alkalinity or acidity ratios of your water. A prime example is the reaction between bicarbonate and citric acid to for co2 and poof you have unstable ph that will rise quickly after lowering with citric acid. You need to provide a chemically stable water with stable solutes to maintain a stable PH.

The higher the alkalinity, the more acid needed, the more stable the PH. You must also account for the sources as they can effe nutrient ratios
 
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Cashmeh

Cashmeh

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In terms of heavy metals organics are the biggest worry.

most plants dont discriminate against uptaking heavy metals so that always a concern. Synthetic ferts undergo more stringent testing.

plants use nutrients to create compounds, tissues etc. its not as simple as if it takea it up it will be smoked.

in terms of ph you must account for chemical reactions that can effect the alkalinity or acidity ratios of your water. A prime example is the reaction between bicarbonate and citric acid to for co2 and poof you have unstable ph that will rise quickly after lowering with citric acid. You need to provide a chemically stable water with stable solutes to maintain a stable PH.

The higher the alkalinity, the more acid needed, the more stable the PH. You must also account for the sources as they can effe nutrient ratios
So is silica a heavy metal? Am I confused or does it not add alkalinity. I was assuming not all things that add alkalinity are metals. I dont even know what a organic heavy metal is vs a synthetic fert. I had a buddy ask me today if I could grow organic in hydro. I told him no, that ive heard its hard enough to do it in soil with weed. Again, i have no idea, i just know i dont use corrosives or pesticides, but i dont think that matters in terms of organic meanings.
 
SweetLeafGrow

SweetLeafGrow

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Sitting at 5.7 atm. Adjusted with 3 ml Tree trunk last night before bed brought it up from 5.6 to 5.8, drifted down slightly since then but pretty stable I would say.

Do you think I still should do some more daily updates? Everything continues to look good IMO. Approximately 3 weeks to go!

Thanks Bro!
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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638
So is silica a heavy metal? Am I confused or does it not add alkalinity. I was assuming not all things that add alkalinity are metals. I dont even know what a organic heavy metal is vs a synthetic fert. I had a buddy ask me today if I could grow organic in hydro. I told him no, that ive heard its hard enough to do it in soil with weed. Again, i have no idea, i just know i dont use corrosives or pesticides, but i dont think that matters in terms of organic meanings.
No silica, silicate and silicon are all different forms. Silica is the most abundant mineral i believe in soil on earth…. its not a metal
 
Moe.Red

Moe.Red

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313
Here are some photos from today. PH has dropped to 5.6, I’ll probably raise that up before I go to work at the bar tonight.
I think you are right down the middle of the fairway as a perfect test for aqua’s new system. I see a ton of room for a much better harvest on your next grow. You’ve got a lot of experience on this run.

That learning curve can be a bitch tho huh?
 
Buzzzz

Buzzzz

1,127
163
Could be… but quartz i dont think is a nutrient or used hy plants. Dont take that as fact though i would be kinda shocked
No I don't think so either, I know they make glass out of silca and moulds to take the heat when casting. I'd bet the deserts are silica
 
SweetLeafGrow

SweetLeafGrow

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Currently at day 43 flower and a bit over 2 weeks to go on this grow. Flowers are slowly getting bigger and they are nice and dense. Terps are crazy and she is really starting to put off a powerful odor....sticky as all get out.

I did some math this morning and I have topped off the res a total of 4 gallons so far after the last res change. Once I've added a total of 8 gallons back then will be ready to do the next res change, so halfway there and the daily water intake is definitely increasing slowly. PH continues to hold steady and generally drops about .1 over night. When it hits 5.6 I bring it back up to 5.8. I will have to figure how strong I need to make the next batch of nutrients, I am thinking I will most likely need to do that change out before Wednesday.

Here are some current photos from this morning.
IMG 0964


IMG 0971

IMG 0965



IMG 0967



IMG 0966


IMG 0968



IMG 0969


IMG 0970


IMG 0972
 
SweetLeafGrow

SweetLeafGrow

1,467
263
Just a small update for today, cruising along nicely. Blossoms are really filling out, especially down the stem. The major thing I noticed today is I had to top off a full gallon, she is really drinking a lot now! Looking like Wednesday or Thursday for res change. I think I have that routine down, but I am curious as to what ya'all suggest for nutrient ratios this next res change?

I'm currently in the middle of week 5 flower, will be close to the start of week 6 by the time I do this change out. My thoughts, without any input from ya'all is to use the week 6 GH feeding schedule. Looking that up, I found a chart that has differing levels of aggressiveness with the feeding. If I were to do this based on what I have learned so far here, I would likely stay with the "Medium Feed" chart which would call for 3.8 mL per gallon of micro and grow and 4.5 mL per gallon of the bloom, with a final ppm sitting between 500 and 650, not sure if this is too aggressive or not.

Here is the chart I was looking at-
FloraSeries Basic Feed Charts
 
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Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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638
I eun a transition to pretty much between the end of stretch and end of swelling depend on how the plants look
 
Observationist

Observationist

5,320
313
I've read this several times now and I am not sure what you mean.

Pythium likes light? but BB does not? This is very confusing to me as neither use light directly.

If you google "does Pythium use light" or derivatives, there is nothing about it.


Pythium was misclassified for over 150 years as fungus! It is not actually one at all, and instead belongs in the family Pythiaceae of the class Oomycete. These are fungal-like organisms that grow mycelium made of cellulose and produce spores called oospores and zoospores.
Pythium is one of most the common causes of seed rot, damping-off and root rot in hydroponics. There are many species within the genus Pythium that can produce root rots, all of which have slightly different growth habits, characteristics and environmental requirements for growth.
Pythium

In the same oomycetes class as pythium you’ll also find phytophthora, which leads to very similar symptoms of root rot but at the same time can also attack above-the-ground plant material causing blight, fruit rots and stem rots. Fear not though, the root rot symptoms of pythium and phytophthora are very similar and so are the preventative measures and treatments.
Dropping the knowledge
 

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