Fluffy bud - need to correct my environment

[VinnieV]

Gentlefolks,

I have a sealed room.
In this room I run temps high 29c/84.2 with C02 at 800-1000ppm from a burner.

I have 12 x 600w lights (400v Phillips green power) and plenty fans and air diffusers along top of canopy. I also have a water cooled opticlimate for simplicity.

my bud smokes great - the terpenes are pungent I get no complaints. WITH THE EXCEPTION of it not being all that dense. More airy for sure and some foxtails.
And while a lot of us don’t mind airy buds, a lot of people do these days, probably from crap synthetic PGRs. Note - I have nothing against PGRs derived from beeswax etc.

I’m looking to make some improvements on the room. Here’s what I’m thinking and have deduced from some research:

1. More fans at pot height to move the heavy air and redistribute CO2 / stale air.
2. increase CO2 to 1200-1500ppm as I think having it lower is perhaps affecting density along with
3. Which is increase humidity. I normally keep at 60% mid flower and 50% late flower. Though I’m reading to really get stomata to open up to intake the CO2 I need to run humidity closer to 80%. More of a tricking them to open to uptake CO2 as far as I’m understanding.
4. Get RH to 40% at night to reduce chances of bud rot. And although I say it’s a sealed room I have a filter slowly taking air out of the room but no intake. Maximum negative pressure!!

foxtailimg tells me temps are too high, so I was thinking of reducing to the 26c/78f mark BUT I realise the stress and foxtailimg could be due to not being able to make the most of the light due to lower humidity at the time.

Any thoughts? My one concern with running RH at 80% (besides rot) is it making the carbon filters not as effective as is commonly known…

Keen to hear your thoughts

 

[1989cheeseSOG]

1000ppm of co2 is near optimal
1500ppm is often considered a bit too much, 1200ppm being the best

do you use a PK booster of some sort ? that will give you the density, N excess will give fluffy buds
higher temps (around 29degree) are also a factor of fluffyness in sealed room

from my experience running 29degree with co2 is mistake, even if every amateur site/forum guy repete it

from what i read from agricultural knowledge, best leaf temp for rubisco is around 24/25 degree c with CO2

strong light toward the end of bloom is also very important for bud tightness, are you light powerful/close enough of the tops ?

 

[VinnieV]

I would say light is good, uniform and good height (I have read par / umol and is optimal). With exception of the odd bud getting too close and getting light bleached but that’s the odd one stretching away from the canopy. Always swap out HPS lights every 2nd run and only buy philips 400v’s.

I have a leaf temp camera for VPD to always try keep in the sweet spot but I guess if my nutes off then that’s not going to help much.

nutes I use canna aqua Vega in veg with calmag etc. and a little silica and then from wk3 flower I’m using green planet massive bloom… I may actually be quite weak on the PK boost here…

Definitely a lot of conflicting stuff regarding CO2 and room temp - finding both ends of the spectrum put out good sense product but that could be other factors at play I guess…

I’ll try a room temp of 26/27. And see what pk booster I could use in tandem with my current nutes

 

[VinnieV]

Here’s my current nutrient line up for flower - if anyone could advise on any products they’ve tried along with or had better success with I’d be keen to hear about them to research

- Canna Aqua Flores
- Canna Calmag
- Canna Rhizotonic
- VitaLink Silica (cut week 3/4 typically, run through from veg)
- green Planet massive bloom (wk3-wk6)
- pk boost (recommendations welcome!)

 

[1989cheeseSOG]

so you use RO water i guess

i would keep the flores and the canna calmag
the best liquid pk boost i know is B.A.C F1 booster, best price/quality value too, like the whole line
i made some run with canna line in the past its a fine line but too pricey for what it is
now i only stick to B.A.C A+B and PK boost

but in your case as you use potassium silicate, a pk 50-33 would be better because a 13/14 would make too much K with the K silicate
pk 50-33 is basically mono potassium phosphate dry salt, which is IMO cleaner/purer than all these liquid pk boost bottles

 

[karolanne]

Can we see pictures of your installation? It's just curiosity, nothing to do with your issue.

 

[VinnieV]

Can we see pictures of your installation? It's just curiosity, nothing to do with your issue.

I don’t have pictures just yet as I’m tearing down walls to install new insulation board and stud frame to have the ac hanging etc - I can share the plans later today though to get everyone’s thoughts!

 

[VinnieV]

so you use RO water i guess

i would keep the flores and the canna calmag
the best liquid pk boost i know is B.A.C F1 booster, best price/quality value too, like the whole line
i made some run with canna line in the past its a fine line but too pricey for what it is
now i only stick to B.A.C A+B and PK boost

but in your case as you use potassium silicate, a pk 50-33 would be better because a 13/14 would make too much K with the K silicate
pk 50-33 is basically mono potassium phosphate dry salt, which is IMO cleaner/purer than all these liquid pk boost bottles

I may drop the silicate in flower just to make trouble shooting easier to try and find the issue with feeding. I’ll continue with it in veg and try out your recommendations - I’ll report back in 3 months haha.
I’ll look into that BAC product