Flushing

[mmmdankbuds420]

When flushing is there still a need to pH the water? Thanks.

 

[connoisseurde420]

are you using tap?

 

[MysteryChild]

50/50 as some say it's necessary and some say it's not
If your flushing for 2 weeks i'd say Ph it
If not just flush with non ph'd water

 

[connoisseurde420]

if I'm using salt noots and tap water I ph... I use ro w mostly organic so I just water last week or two

 

[mmmdankbuds420]

Its tap water and I was planning on a 1 week flush. Thanks guys much appreciated.

 

[mmmdankbuds420]

Still pH?

 

[Max Frost]

I don't like to pH for the last 2 weeks during my flush. I just give plain out-gassed tap water. The chemicals of the pH adjusters "CAN" affect the taste, and in any event is just more chemicals I don't want. I've never seen a problem from doing this. Your plants will be harvested before any pH issues could really appear anyway. Hope this helps! Best, -Max :wacky:

 

[mmmdankbuds420]

I don't like to pH for the last 2 weeks during my flush. I just give plain out-gassed tap water. The chemicals of the pH adjusters "CAN" affect the taste, and in any event is just more chemicals I don't want. I've never seen a problem from doing this. Your plants will be harvested before any pH issues could really appear anyway. Hope this helps! Best, -Max :wacky:

Helps a lot. Thanks! :) that was something I was wondering, if my pH down could affect taste.

 

[Max Frost]

Yep. In my opinion, it can. Best of luck to you!

 

[Seamaiden]

This subject, at one time, caused a huge debate. :)

 

[connoisseurde420]

Flushing can be a touchy subject lol. I think its cuz we're all concerned for what were smokin on...

 

[mmmdankbuds420]

This subject, at one time, caused a huge debate. :)

Where do you stand on the subject maiden? :)

 

[kweezy420]

I just read a thread on IC about flushing recently, some heads say that there's a difference between "flushing" and "end of cycle flushing"

"Flushing" is using average of bout 3 x the volume of pot size in ph'd water to cleanse/leach the sick/imbalanced ph plant.

"End of cycle flushing" is giving the maturing plants just water feedings (not drown flushing the plant) for 2-3 weeks till done.

This subject just seems so intresting.. What do you guys think??

Oh yeah.. currently wondering bout ph water at the end also.. hmmmm

 

[Seamaiden]

Where do you stand on the subject maiden? :)

LMAO!!! I don't pH, but then I also don't flush anymore. :p @true grit Remember that thread? This joint's for you! ~~===

More specific to the question; I didn't pH for a couple of reasons, one being that it seemed redundant, especially if the goal was to remove excess nutrients from the media. The other was that, again, if the goal was to pull excess nutrients out of the media, it seemed to me that the goal behind doing that was to remove them from the plant (causing a fade), so again, pHing, which makes nutrients better available, just seemed counterintuitive to me. Finally, when I did try pHing I didn't notice a huge difference other than remaining green longer.

In the end, I find that growing is an art, not a science, and that there are so many variables that I think everyone should try using both methods and figuring out what works best for you.

 

[mmmdankbuds420]

LMAO!!! I don't pH, but then I also don't flush anymore. :p @true grit Remember that thread? This joint's for you! ~~===

More specific to the question; I didn't pH for a couple of reasons, one being that it seemed redundant, especially if the goal was to remove excess nutrients from the media. The other was that, again, if the goal was to pull excess nutrients out of the media, it seemed to me that the goal behind doing that was to remove them from the plant (causing a fade), so again, pHing, which makes nutrients better available, just seemed counterintuitive to me. Finally, when I did try pHing I didn't notice a huge difference other than remaining green longer.

In the end, I find that growing is an art, not a science, and that there are so many variables that I think everyone should try using both methods and figuring out what works best for you.

Well said! :)

 

[Greenjean]

I will make sure and pH my hydro tray, but with soil, I just give them straight CO tap water. I do try and fill my watering can the night before. When I do this, the pH naturally drops from a 8.3 to 7.7, but I don't go the extra step to bring it down farther than that.

 

[true grit]

Lol @ Seamaiden. Oh ya I remember.

And where I still stand on the question- Yes I ph from beginning to end. You don't just "wash" away extra nutrients in the plant by putting straight water in the rhizosphere/root zone. Your entire plant has nutrients in it, and the ph of your plant begins in the root zone. If your goal is to remove all nutrients remaining in the media AND the plant then you need the plant to be operating at full efficiency to process what is remaining in the plant itself- not throwing a klink in the run by changing your ph at the end and possibly causing lockout (which some consider fade). Luckily for most farmers these days, there are plenty of ph buffers built into additives so its less apparent. if you are on your humic/fulvic game, the range of ph uptake is greatly opened period.

At this point I know how much of certain nutrients with low ppm to add to my RO to NOT need any ph up/down. this prevents any chemicals in my adjustment period. Its also been found by some prominent farmers that its better to maintain some ppm during "flush" as opposed to straight water to get a better tasting end product and better "flush". I would assume maintaining some ppm would require ph'ing as well. Theres a difference in shock/lockout and flushing imo.

And Sea- i still think growing is as much a science as an art ;)

 

[DixinCider]

Lol @ Seamaiden. Oh ya I remember.

And where I still stand on the question- Yes I ph from beginning to end. You don't just "wash" away extra nutrients in the plant by putting straight water in the rhizosphere/root zone. Your entire plant has nutrients in it, and the ph of your plant begins in the root zone. If your goal is to remove all nutrients remaining in the media AND the plant then you need the plant to be operating at full efficiency to process what is remaining in the plant itself- not throwing a klink in the run by changing your ph at the end and possibly causing lockout (which some consider fade). Luckily for most farmers these days, there are plenty of ph buffers built into additives so its less apparent. if you are on your humic/fulvic game, the range of ph uptake is greatly opened period.

At this point I know how much of certain nutrients with low ppm to add to my RO to NOT need any ph up/down. this prevents any chemicals in my adjustment period. Its also been found by some prominent farmers that its better to maintain some ppm during "flush" as opposed to straight water to get a better tasting end product and better "flush". I would assume maintaining some ppm would require ph'ing as well. Theres a difference in shock/lockout and flushing imo.

And Sea- i still think growing is as much a science as an art ;)

the problem i have come across when ph'ing 0 ppm water (i like to flush with cleanest water possible) is that when when i add a small amount of down, to even a large amount of water, the ph of the water is super unstable and doesn't seem to keep a stable ph...what i feel does this is that there is nothing in the water for the acid to bind to to change that acidity of the water. i feel like 0 ppm water is so easily manipulated by what gets put in (because the water is so clean) that when you flush with 0 ppm water it doesnt really push the ph around that directly, but if you were watering with a nute regimen ph'd to 7 thats a different story. growing is much of a science that i love :)

 

[DixinCider]

Lol @ Seamaiden. Oh ya I remember.

And where I still stand on the question- Yes I ph from beginning to end. You don't just "wash" away extra nutrients in the plant by putting straight water in the rhizosphere/root zone. Your entire plant has nutrients in it, and the ph of your plant begins in the root zone. If your goal is to remove all nutrients remaining in the media AND the plant then you need the plant to be operating at full efficiency to process what is remaining in the plant itself- not throwing a klink in the run by changing your ph at the end and possibly causing lockout (which some consider fade). Luckily for most farmers these days, there are plenty of ph buffers built into additives so its less apparent. if you are on your humic/fulvic game, the range of ph uptake is greatly opened period.

At this point I know how much of certain nutrients with low ppm to add to my RO to NOT need any ph up/down. this prevents any chemicals in my adjustment period. Its also been found by some prominent farmers that its better to maintain some ppm during "flush" as opposed to straight water to get a better tasting end product and better "flush". I would assume maintaining some ppm would require ph'ing as well. Theres a difference in shock/lockout and flushing imo.

And Sea- i still think growing is as much a science as an art ;)

are you saying you flush with humic and fulvic? maybe thats what gets the ph to be stable. if i could get the ph to be stable it makes sense, but in 0ppm water i can never get it to stabilize.

 

[Seamaiden]

You won't, it has no alkalinity.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alkalinity