mmmdankbuds420
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When flushing is there still a need to pH the water? Thanks.
Helps a lot. Thanks! :) that was something I was wondering, if my pH down could affect taste.I don't like to pH for the last 2 weeks during my flush. I just give plain out-gassed tap water. The chemicals of the pH adjusters "CAN" affect the taste, and in any event is just more chemicals I don't want. I've never seen a problem from doing this. Your plants will be harvested before any pH issues could really appear anyway. Hope this helps! Best, -Max :wacky:
Where do you stand on the subject maiden? :)This subject, at one time, caused a huge debate. :)
LMAO!!! I don't pH, but then I also don't flush anymore. :p @true grit Remember that thread? This joint's for you! ~~===Where do you stand on the subject maiden? :)
Well said! :)LMAO!!! I don't pH, but then I also don't flush anymore. :p @true grit Remember that thread? This joint's for you! ~~===
More specific to the question; I didn't pH for a couple of reasons, one being that it seemed redundant, especially if the goal was to remove excess nutrients from the media. The other was that, again, if the goal was to pull excess nutrients out of the media, it seemed to me that the goal behind doing that was to remove them from the plant (causing a fade), so again, pHing, which makes nutrients better available, just seemed counterintuitive to me. Finally, when I did try pHing I didn't notice a huge difference other than remaining green longer.
In the end, I find that growing is an art, not a science, and that there are so many variables that I think everyone should try using both methods and figuring out what works best for you.
Lol @ Seamaiden. Oh ya I remember.
And where I still stand on the question- Yes I ph from beginning to end. You don't just "wash" away extra nutrients in the plant by putting straight water in the rhizosphere/root zone. Your entire plant has nutrients in it, and the ph of your plant begins in the root zone. If your goal is to remove all nutrients remaining in the media AND the plant then you need the plant to be operating at full efficiency to process what is remaining in the plant itself- not throwing a klink in the run by changing your ph at the end and possibly causing lockout (which some consider fade). Luckily for most farmers these days, there are plenty of ph buffers built into additives so its less apparent. if you are on your humic/fulvic game, the range of ph uptake is greatly opened period.
At this point I know how much of certain nutrients with low ppm to add to my RO to NOT need any ph up/down. this prevents any chemicals in my adjustment period. Its also been found by some prominent farmers that its better to maintain some ppm during "flush" as opposed to straight water to get a better tasting end product and better "flush". I would assume maintaining some ppm would require ph'ing as well. Theres a difference in shock/lockout and flushing imo.
And Sea- i still think growing is as much a science as an art ;)
are you saying you flush with humic and fulvic? maybe thats what gets the ph to be stable. if i could get the ph to be stable it makes sense, but in 0ppm water i can never get it to stabilize.Lol @ Seamaiden. Oh ya I remember.
And where I still stand on the question- Yes I ph from beginning to end. You don't just "wash" away extra nutrients in the plant by putting straight water in the rhizosphere/root zone. Your entire plant has nutrients in it, and the ph of your plant begins in the root zone. If your goal is to remove all nutrients remaining in the media AND the plant then you need the plant to be operating at full efficiency to process what is remaining in the plant itself- not throwing a klink in the run by changing your ph at the end and possibly causing lockout (which some consider fade). Luckily for most farmers these days, there are plenty of ph buffers built into additives so its less apparent. if you are on your humic/fulvic game, the range of ph uptake is greatly opened period.
At this point I know how much of certain nutrients with low ppm to add to my RO to NOT need any ph up/down. this prevents any chemicals in my adjustment period. Its also been found by some prominent farmers that its better to maintain some ppm during "flush" as opposed to straight water to get a better tasting end product and better "flush". I would assume maintaining some ppm would require ph'ing as well. Theres a difference in shock/lockout and flushing imo.
And Sea- i still think growing is as much a science as an art ;)