galvanized ducting, worth it?

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mastacheeser

mastacheeser

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I have a few questions about galvanized ducting, as I have never used it before

Will it increase cfm?
Is it loud?
Will it effect temps vs insulated?

Hydrofarm doesn't carry the stuff so it got me worried theirs a downside I'm not thinking of
 
blazer

blazer

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I have a few questions about galvanized ducting, as I have never used it before

Will it increase cfm?
Is it loud?
Will it effect temps vs insulated?

Hydrofarm doesn't carry the stuff so it got me worried theirs a downside I'm not thinking of
Do you mean hard galvanized ducting compared to flex duct that insulated if so you will get better airflow than flex,flex can be restrictive if long runs or alot of bends,you will probably hear the air more in the galvanized the flex slows down the air so it dampens sound some,if you are pulling outside air that is cold you will get condensation on duct that not insulated just a heads up hope that helps some
 
blazer

blazer

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Flex not usually an issue if runs kept short very versatile in application but hard pipe will give you better airflow has less restriction,def would insulate if pulling cold outside air ive been saying that myself for a couple years and havent done it and have drippy sweatty ducts
 
mastacheeser

mastacheeser

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I'm going to have 6 raptors packed in together on a 25 ft run(18ft of raptors)

The lights will be pulling air from the room through a carbon filter. Will the condensation still be a issue?
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

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I'm going to have 6 raptors packed in together on a 25 ft run(18ft of raptors)

The lights will be pulling air from the room through a carbon filter. Will the condensation still be a issue?

If those hoods are pulling enough air from the room to keep them cool, your problems will be those of trying to maintain environmental control. Pull from outside the room and seal as best you can, that's how you'll get the best benefit.
 
mastacheeser

mastacheeser

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If those hoods are pulling enough air from the room to keep them cool, your problems will be those of trying to maintain environmental control. Pull from outside the room and seal as best you can, that's how you'll get the best benefit.
Thats what I've always done but really wanna get a crazy air exchange going to take advantage of these winter temps
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

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Thats what I've always done but really wanna get a crazy air exchange going to take advantage of these winter temps

Then use a lot of galvanized ducting, and blow air across them with fans inside the room. You'll still get the benefits of a sealed room- and you'll see better temperature control and more manageable conditions.
 
blazer

blazer

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if you pull from the same room you will have to bring in what you exhaust out and then you usually have to then condition that air ie either heat or cool it,if all rapters will be in series the condensation should only be to first light(heat source) the condensation will only happen if your pulling air that is cooler than the dew point in your room,if able to insulate shouldnt have to worry about condensation but it can bulky when you insulate also
 
A

AlterEgo860

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the only problem im having with bringing in cold winter Air directly to the grow.. is condensation.. and let me tell u . I wouldn't feel safe hooking it up to my lights unless it went threw something first that could catch all the condensation because I feel like it will cause an issue at somepoint.. but who knows.
 
pussOGbrah

pussOGbrah

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no stick with flex..

if your worried about drag from the flex just get a bigger fan..

working with non flex would suck on so many levels for a home grow. maybe not so bad in a warehouse situation
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

6,892
313
the only problem im having with bringing in cold winter Air directly to the grow.. is condensation.. and let me tell u . I wouldn't feel safe hooking it up to my lights unless it went threw something first that could catch all the condensation because I feel like it will cause an issue at somepoint.. but who knows.

The condensation forms on the OUTSIDE of the ducting, where all your humid growroom air is, duh! It's not wet inside the ducting. Blowing plenty of air across galvanized steel ductwork is a great way to take advantage of free Colorado Cooling, and helps prewarm the air so it doesn't cold shock the first bulb in the run, that is, keep it from running at its intended temperature range.
 
We Solidarity

We Solidarity

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Flex is what you want - no need to insulate if you're pulling from inside the room. If you're worried about efficiency of the air exchange use two fans/carbon filters and two seperate runs of ducting. The non-flex is almost too efficient and it is such a headache to install. I personally don't like to do runs of more than 5 lights on one fan, you'll either start seeing inconsist temps from one light to the next or you'll pull too much air over the bulbs making them too cool to operate at peak efficiency.

Exhausting your room air through your hoods is the only way I would run sealed hoods, but you need to make sure your hoods are SEALED if efficiency and/or smell are an issue. don't trust the cheap rubber/foam grommet thing in the hood, seal them with foil tape and seal your ducting with foil tape too otherwise negative pressure from the fan will be sucking unfiltered air through cracks in the hoods (it's a great way to waste C02 too).
 
pussOGbrah

pussOGbrah

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I personally don't like to do runs of more than 5 lights on one fan, you'll either start seeing inconsist temps from one light to the next or you'll pull too much air over the bulbs making them too cool to operate at peak efficiency.
.

Dude droppin game! does this really happen? makes sense honestly...Never heard anyone mention this before tho props bro:cool: i swear we never stop learning in this hobby/profession, its so awesome..keeps things interesting and always evolving...
 
B

Bangarang

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Can someone please tell me how to calculate when condensation will develop on rigid duct? If room is 76 and outside is 49 = condensation.
 

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