Garage Build

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StonedBlue

StonedBlue

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So I was half done building my new room A change of plans means I have no choice but to move to garage. I would welcome any suggestions, I'd like to make a few mistakes as possible. Temps vary from teens to 100 F.
I am planning on 2 8x10 rooms, one flowering and one vegging. The vegging will double as storage area for a few household items.
My plan is to build standard 2x4 studded walls with 1/2 inch mdf on each side. I'd like to find adequate insulation for $20 or so per 4x8 section of wall. Not sure what to use
I need the vegging area to stay around 70 degrees. Eventually I'll put in a mini split but need to use window shaker for now. Plan on cooling the veg and pulling air out of flower area when need to bring temp down.
 
StonedBlue

StonedBlue

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Thanks, nice thread. I think I'm going to need far more insulation tho. What are your outside temps?
 
1diesel1

1diesel1

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Thanks, nice thread. I think I'm going to need far more insulation tho. What are your outside temps?
You definitely will to run year round. I’m in northwest Oregon. I shut down my indoor flower in the summer and jump outside farming. Temp fluctuations are mild. The a/C unit actually causes a negative pressure and sucks the walls in
 
oldskol4evr

oldskol4evr

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So I was half done building my new room A change of plans means I have no choice but to move to garage. I would welcome any suggestions, I'd like to make a few mistakes as possible. Temps vary from teens to 100 F.
I am planning on 2 8x10 rooms, one flowering and one vegging. The vegging will double as storage area for a few household items.
My plan is to build standard 2x4 studded walls with 1/2 inch mdf on each side. I'd like to find adequate insulation for $20 or so per 4x8 section of wall. Not sure what to use
I need the vegging area to stay around 70 degrees. Eventually I'll put in a mini split but need to use window shaker for now. Plan on cooling the veg and pulling air out of flower area when need to bring temp down.
go hard at it,great plan,i was gonna suggest osb walls on 16 inch centers,is the garage big enough to completly close the whole way in?reason i ask because i used a window shaker,there perfect a 10k would suit the area,but keep in mind by doing so,the window unit is a bad light leak,back to question,i would do the 2 rooms as planned but if i had room i would close it all in and have a ac room to the side say 5x5 with vent for intake to the rooms if you dig ,just let that bitch run,my closet was 6x10 and i used a cheap 100 dollar job to cool the 10x10 room it went into,hottest it ever got in triple digit weather was 75 lights on,just a tip for ya,good luck
 
StonedBlue

StonedBlue

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[QUOTE="oldskol4evr, post: 2237689, suggest osb walls on 16 inch centers,
is the garage big enough to completly close the whole way in?[/QUOTE]
What is osb?
3 walls will be new and one is an outside wall so I may need to open it up and insulate it
 
Bubba kush

Bubba kush

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I did mine 8x16 and did not take into account for the insulation and inner wall so the actual usable space is about 7’4” x 15’4” wish I would have gone 1 1/2’- 2’ bigger
 
oldskol4evr

oldskol4evr

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[QUOTE="oldskol4evr, post: 2237689, suggest osb walls on 16 inch centers,
is the garage big enough to completly close the whole way in?
What is osb?
3 walls will be new and one is an outside wall so I may need to open it up and insulate it[/QUOTE]
myself i wouldnt use the mdf,that crap bad for the lungs,what i did at my cabin was this,first i got a 12 x36 loafted cabin special order big mistake,when i got it both loaf were at 8ft,so i dropped one side to 7ft,then i went back in and layed down 13/16 treated plywood over the 7/16 it came with,then i went and put every wall stud in at 16in center,i then opened the whole side and cut out a 4ft section from top to bottom plate,this is the point were all the dimentions of the 2ft centers meet,at that 4ft opening i framed in and placed a header there for later down the road when i expand with another building on it side it will just be a walk threw,right now i have it closed in with a 10k btu wall shaker in it,after all that extra work,i used r13 in every nock and cranny,used osb to cover all the walls,when i add on i will dry wall it for looks mainly,it looks pretty sharp as is,now you can use a primer and then use flat white kiltz to paint it and down,the osb will absorb the paint crazy like,anyway if i were you and dont use the garges for cars and such,close all of it in and run a ac out there,the ac will also keep the humidity levels down
 
oldskol4evr

oldskol4evr

12,306
438
What is osb?
3 walls will be new and one is an outside wall so I may need to open it up and insulate it
myself i wouldnt use the mdf,that crap bad for the lungs,what i did at my cabin was this,first i got a 12 x36 loafted cabin special order big mistake,when i got it both loaf were at 8ft,so i dropped one side to 7ft,then i went back in and layed down 13/16 treated plywood over the 7/16 it came with,then i went and put every wall stud in at 16in center,i then opened the whole side and cut out a 4ft section from top to bottom plate,this is the point were all the dimentions of the 2ft centers meet,at that 4ft opening i framed in and placed a header there for later down the road when i expand with another building on it side it will just be a walk threw,right now i have it closed in with a 10k btu wall shaker in it,after all that extra work,i used r13 in every nock and cranny,used osb to cover all the walls,when i add on i will dry wall it for looks mainly,it looks pretty sharp as is,now you can use a primer and then use flat white kiltz to paint it and down,the osb will absorb the paint crazy like,anyway if i were you and dont use the garges for cars and such,close all of it in and run a ac out there,the ac will also keep the humidity levels down[/QUOTE]
forgot to answer you,osb is decking board,wood chips glued together,one side has a coat for protection from elements,stuff is mainly use for decking on the roof and then tar paper and shingles are put on,tough stuff until it gets wet,then it just falls apart,if you paint it or seal with something it wont get wet,the shit is stronger than plywood and cheaper
 
oldskol4evr

oldskol4evr

12,306
438
myself i wouldnt use the mdf,that crap bad for the lungs,what i did at my cabin was this,first i got a 12 x36 loafted cabin special order big mistake,when i got it both loaf were at 8ft,so i dropped one side to 7ft,then i went back in and layed down 13/16 treated plywood over the 7/16 it came with,then i went and put every wall stud in at 16in center,i then opened the whole side and cut out a 4ft section from top to bottom plate,this is the point were all the dimentions of the 2ft centers meet,at that 4ft opening i framed in and placed a header there for later down the road when i expand with another building on it side it will just be a walk threw,right now i have it closed in with a 10k btu wall shaker in it,after all that extra work,i used r13 in every nock and cranny,used osb to cover all the walls,when i add on i will dry wall it for looks mainly,it looks pretty sharp as is,now you can use a primer and then use flat white kiltz to paint it and down,the osb will absorb the paint crazy like,anyway if i were you and dont use the garges for cars and such,close all of it in and run a ac out there,the ac will also keep the humidity levels down
forgot to answer you,osb is decking board,wood chips glued together,one side has a coat for protection from elements,stuff is mainly use for decking on the roof and then tar paper and shingles are put on,tough stuff until it gets wet,then it just falls apart,if you paint it or seal with something it wont get wet,the shit is stronger than plywood and cheaper[/QUOTE]
i took this building and put it on top of 6x6x24 ft long beams,i drilled pier holes and layed them down and had building put on top,got under it and insulated it,put house wrap across bottom then chicken wire,10 yrs later ive never had not one critter get in,had a tornado hit the place about 9 yr ago,lost all my outside buildings to include about 30 grand in tools,the cabin slid almost off the the beams,so went and rented a rail yard jack and after 3 days of a work out ,i dont pay gyms hahahah,got that bitch back on the beams and went and bought a whole case of hurrican straps and went to town,next twister will have to take cabin beams and all,if it does i hope it also pulls those concrete pier plugs out with it,then i just sell the place,lmao
 
StonedBlue

StonedBlue

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My house has tornado straps Never heard of them until I bought this house
 
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