H2O2 & Powdery Mildew

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I have been infected for the first time. Damn! I have decide to try the H2O2 fix first. BEFORE everyone tells me to use Eagle 20; I would like to give this route a try for organic purposes...

I am going to use a 3% solution of H2O2 and mix 1 Cup to 1 Gallon of water. My current PH level is 6.3-6.8%. I lowered my RH level to 4o%. [normally 55-65%]. Since I can't change my heat, I am at the mercy of whatever my lights and CO2 burner can generate. I raised my A/C temperature so my indoor temps should run between 70-82 degrees. [normally shoot for 68-74]. I plan on sraying my mixture.

Could someone please provide some advice to my questions:
1. How oftern can I spray in both bloom and veg rooms?
2. Is my PH level good for this mixture?
 

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
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I'd try to raise the pH on top of that peroxide mixture, get it to 10 and it's a PM treatment by itself. I would spray as often as I'm seeing fruiting bodies.

Consider a horticultural oil that also acts as a physical blocker, such as Storch or, my own preferred, JMS Stylet.
 
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I'd try to raise the pH on top of that peroxide mixture, get it to 10 and it's a PM treatment by itself. I would spray as often as I'm seeing fruiting bodies.

Consider a horticultural oil that also acts as a physical blocker, such as Storch or, my own preferred, JMS Stylet.
Thank you for your help. A ph of 10 seems really quite high...

The horticultural oil is to be used with the H2O2 or seperate as another PM treatment?
 
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A big misconception of PM is that water helps it spread but water actually kills the spores! I've sprayed my plants that had signs of PM caused from a root aphids attack with plain tap water ......it's been working just as good or better than the GreenCure I'd been using!!

Just make sure you do this with the lights on and be mindful that soaking the buds too much may potentially lead to bud mold or some other kind of pathogen(s).
 

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
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That is correct! The fungus you don't want to be using water for is Septoria, aka black spot disease, as it's vectored by splashing water.
Thank you for your help. A ph of 10 seems really quite high...

The horticultural oil is to be used with the H2O2 or seperate as another PM treatment?
Separate, because I don't know how those oils will react, combine or otherwise with the peroxide. Yes, 10 *is* quite high, it's what kills the spores (fruiting bodies). That's why sulfur burning works, it raises the pH on the leaf surfaces, IIRC. I sure hope I'm recollecting correctly!
 
Yup listen to sea, im also in your shoes but thanks to sea maiden ive got it in control with milk washes every two weeks( thasts about as long as it last before it flakes off) and i will be making it to the finish line, thanks sea!
 
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That is correct! The fungus you don't want to be using water for is Septoria, aka black spot disease, as it's vectored by splashing water.

Separate, because I don't know how those oils will react, combine or otherwise with the peroxide. Yes, 10 *is* quite high, it's what kills the spores (fruiting bodies). That's why sulfur burning works, it raises the pH on the leaf surfaces, IIRC. I sure hope I'm recollecting correctly!
I tried your advice of raising the ph to 10 with the 1 cup to 1 gallon mixture. However; my plants appeared to have burned from the application. A lot of the leaves [not all] have a rust color to them. The leaves look like PM may have died, but changed color and shrivled the leaves where the PM may have been.

Maybe I should consider the milk bath instead? Recipe anyone?

I am going to have to finally invest in a sulphur burner. Our extra wet and cold winter caused this mess...Gotta love [and hate] Mother Nature.
 
...yeah man, it's been quite a while since i posted here but i saw your thread and thought i'd stop in and see if i could offer any help.

...anyway, pm spores are everywhere so if you provide the conditions it likes, it will appear so do yourself a favor and do some studying on the life cycle of powdery mildew so you become aware or just exactly what those conditions are.

...that being said here is some information i found back a few years ago when i had my own battle with pm, fortunately the milk worked like a charm, with the caveat that milk won't cure your pm in one spray, you'll need to spray every 3 or 4 days for at least a few weeks before you finally get rid of it. ...you'll also need to figure out what your doing wrong so you can stop doing that so you no longer provide pm friendly conditions.

peace, bozo

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Milk is a useful fungicide in the garden, and is more effective than standard chemical brands.


Researchers believe the potassium phosphate in milk boosts a plant's immune system to fight the fungi.

Where most organic gardeners use a baking soda, soap and oil solution, milk may be substituted to combat the unwanted fungus.

Preparing a Milk Solution and Spraying Schedule

The correct dilution and spraying schedule for garden plants depends on the situation and takes some trial and error.

A milk fungicide solution can range from 1 part milk to 9 parts water, to a strong, milk-only solution. A 1:1 dilution may work for a week, but a 1:8 solution requires spraying every 3 or 4 days.

Skim milk may work better than whole milk, as the higher fat milk may clog a sprayer; even reconstituted powdered milk works.

Uses for Milk Fungicide

Milk was originally used in the garden to treat powdery mildew on squash plants. It is now also commonly used on flowers such as rudebekia (Black-eyed Susans) and Begonias to cure powdery mildew.

Milk has also been used to cure Botrytis on a Cyclamen houseplant. This was applied full strength every morning (leftover breakfast milk). Rotten leaves were picked away and the plant pulled through with no more Botrytis.

Black spots and rust on roses can be controlled but not cured with milk. Fortunately, milk can prevent the spread of these fungi to other plants and new leaves. This can be very useful when bringing home a plant from the nursery and finding a black spot.


The copyright of the article Milk as a Garden Fungicide for Powdery Mildew, Botrytis, and Black Spots in Organic Gardening is owned by Deborah Turton. Permission to republish Milk as a Garden Fungicide for Powdery Mildew, Botrytis, and Black Spots in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.


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by Arzeena Hamir
Powdery Mildew

Less than 3 years ago, researchers in South America discovered a new alternative to controlling powdery mildew. Wagner Bettiol, a scientist from Brazil, found that weekly sprays of milk controlled powdery mildew in zucchini just as effectively as synthetic fungicides such as fenarimol or benomyl. Not only was milk found to be effective at controlling the disease, it also acted as a foliar fertilizer, boosting the plant's immune system.

Powdery mildew in the cucurbit family is caused by the organism Sphaerotheca Fuliginea. It is a serious disease that occurs worldwide. For decades, organic gardeners had to rely on making a spray from baking soda to control the disease. Now, instead of measuring out the baking soda and combining it with a surfactant (a "sticking" substance) of either oil or soap, gardeners need only head for their refrigerators.

In his experiments with zucchini plants, Bettiol found that a weekly spray of milk at a concentration of at least 10% (1 part milk to 9 parts water) significantly reduced the severity of powdery mildew infection on the plants by 90%. While some gardeners may be tempted to increase the concentration of milk for more control, Bettiol found that once concentrations rose above 30%, an innoccuous fungus began to grow on the plants. How does milk control powdery mildew?

Scientist aren't 100% sure how milk works to control this disease. It seems that milk is a natural germicide. In addition, it contains several naturally occurring salts and amino acids that are taken up by the plant. From previous experiments using sodium bicarbonate, potassium phosphate, and other salts, researchers have found that the disease is sensitive to these salts. It is possible then, that milk boosts the plant's immune system to prevent the disease.

Milk used around the world
The benefits of using milk to control powdery mildew haven't been isolated to Brazil. Melon growers in New Zealand are saving thousands of dollars every year by spraying their crops with milk instead of synthetic fungicides. The melon growers in New Zealand have been so successful that the wine industry is taking notice and beginning experiments using milk to control powdery mildew in grapes.

What kind of milk should be used?
In Bettiol's original experiment, fresh milk was used, straight from the cow. However, this is obviously not feasible to most home gardeners. The research work in New Zealand actually found that using skim milk was just as effective. Not only was it cheaper, but the fact that the milk had no fat content meant that there was less chance of any odours.

Wagner Bettiol's original article was published in the journal Crop Science (Vol. 18, 1999, pp. 489-92).
 
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Thanks to both of you for the advice and help. I figured the leaves turned brown where the PM was originally, but I needed verification from a seasoned veteran.

I like the idea of skim milk too. Easy peasy to administer and inexpensive to boot. Nice articles to back up your claim Mr. Bozo...

Do either one of you know if I will have to clean my rooms anymore than I already do if I purchase a sulphur burner. I heard that after a burn you need to clean your rooms once again. Since I clean my trays, vaccuum my rooms, and mop every single time I harvest or shift my pots to different trays; I figured this would more than compensate of having to do anything if you do a five hour burn once a month.
 
you're welcome man and i'd say a sulphur burner would be way overkill unless you have a fairly sizable op.

if you do your homework and learn about the lifecycle of this and any future pests you encounter you will find ways to mostly prevent outbreaks or infestations and you'll know how to treat them if and when they do arise. ...and like i said, unless you have a pretty big op or you live in an unfriendly climate you shouldn't ever need specialized stuff like sulphur burners.

...as far as keeping your op clean i'd say that's an individual thing and while i'd never promote slovenlyness in your habits, i'm a lazy phuck by nature so i'm pretty relaxed when it comes right down to it, i figure ganja evolved to grow in dirt so as long as my dirt isn't full of pathogens and pests i should be ok, lol. ...my goal is 'not sloppy', that's as far as i'm willing to go.

i've been at this hobby for almost 8 years now and i've only ever had pm once and that was early in my second year and it came to me on a gifted clone, ...be careful with gifts bearing gifts, lol.

not that i regret the gift either because i learned how to deal with pm AND i acquired one of the ChemD cuts, or not who knows with gifts, lol, the fact remains she was and still is a keeper for real and is still a major part of my collection, in fact i just flipped 6 just a couple of days ago, one a re-veg going in for her second harvest and five first timers.

anyway, i believe knowledge will be your best weapon against this pm infection and any future problems that you will indeed run into, ...believe me, if you do the research you will find better ways than technology and chemistry to solve these common problems.

peace, bozo
 
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Another thought...What about using Horsetail Tea as a foliar spray for preventive maintanence? I like skim milk, but figure it would be sticky all over my rooms if I used it once every 3-4 days. If anyone thinks this is a good idea, do they have a mix ratio, ph level, and an application schedule that would not burn my plants?
 
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you're welcome man and i'd say a sulphur burner would be way overkill unless you have a fairly sizable op.

if you do your homework and learn about the lifecycle of this and any future pests you encounter you will find ways to mostly prevent outbreaks or infestations and you'll know how to treat them if and when they do arise. ...and like i said, unless you have a pretty big op or you live in an unfriendly climate you shouldn't ever need specialized stuff like sulphur burners.

...as far as keeping your op clean i'd say that's an individual thing and while i'd never promote slovenlyness in your habits, i'm a lazy phuck by nature so i'm pretty relaxed when it comes right down to it, i figure ganja evolved to grow in dirt so as long as my dirt isn't full of pathogens and pests i should be ok, lol. ...my goal is 'not sloppy', that's as far as i'm willing to go.

i've been at this hobby for almost 8 years now and i've only ever had pm once and that was early in my second year and it came to me on a gifted clone, ...be careful with gifts bearing gifts, lol.

not that i regret the gift either because i learned how to deal with pm AND i acquired one of the ChemD cuts, or not who knows with gifts, lol, the fact remains she was and still is a keeper for real and is still a major part of my collection, in fact i just flipped 6 just a couple of days ago, one a re-veg going in for her second harvest and five first timers.

anyway, i believe knowledge will be your best weapon against this pm infection and any future problems that you will indeed run into, ...believe me, if you do the research you will find better ways than technology and chemistry to solve these common problems.

peace, bozo
I am trying to clarify sizing with you when it comes to usuing a sulphur burner. When you mention 'sizable grow operation' are you referring to warehouse size? I realize many on the forum are tent growers and others have larger grow rooms. In my case I have a bloom room with four 4'x8' trays in perpetual grow with seperate veg and dry rooms. While I am not a 'warehouse' opertion, I believe I am larger than some posters this site.
 
I am trying to clarify sizing with you when it comes to usuing a sulphur burner. When you mention 'sizable grow operation' are you referring to warehouse size? I realize many on the forum are tent growers and others have larger grow rooms. In my case I have a bloom room with four 4'x8' trays in perpetual grow with seperate veg and dry rooms. While I am not a 'warehouse' opertion, I believe I am larger than some posters this site.
...well, that is indeed big enough for me to consider it 'sizable', i'm still a hobbyist at heart, but i think still small enough that you should be able to prevent pm with environmental controls like adding a couple more circulation fans and maybe doing some defoliation, ...and a dehuey, pm likes the air warm, still and moist so that would help take away another environmental element favorable to pm.

...like i said, my own op is small enough so once i became aware of pm and what conditions promote it i've never had it since, ...i could be wrong but i think your op is not so big that you couldn't learn to do the same.

oh yeah, it's been quite a while since i attempted anything organic but i do know that a compost tea spray will help, molasses too but if you're gonna spray anyway why not add milk to the mix, it does no harm and actually does much good, like boosting the plants immune system for example.

peace, bozo
 
...i think maybe setting up something to run the intake air across some kind of uv set up would be helpful, that way you'd be scrubbing the intake air, as it were.

anyway, don't mind me, i'm just digging on some Rory, 'Etched in Blue' to be precise and this track as i type.


rock on, bozo
 
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pm is airborne, so you also need a uvc scrubber. it is interesting. friend bought the set up, I'm merely a curious bystander, watching the process go down. I'd like to know more about immunox I read here somewhere...peace...
 

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