Aqua Man
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BugbeeBIGbee or BUGbee? LOL!
I'll look him up on YT! Thanks for the info!
BugbeeBIGbee or BUGbee? LOL!
I'll look him up on YT! Thanks for the info!
This one is very good: Cannabis Grow Lighting Myths and FAQs with Dr. Bruce BugbeeDoes Dr. Bigbee have empirical evidence that this in fact happens? How would you be able to monitor when a plant goes into its darkness routine and set up a baseline to determine what is "awake" and what is "asleep"? Would it be determined by the amount of metabolic function? Chemical processes going on in that time period that are measurable?
If you have any vids you can link that talk about this I would love to watch them.....
I completely agree with everything you just said so saying I don't like to push my plants very far as topping and defolation goes plus I'm only a beginner so I only top once! I just ordered a seed that is very forgiveness to all training so I'm gonna try to learn a little if your will to help me with some of that I would love that! I want to learn everything I can so I'm all ears!In essense the calvin cycle is always happening to an extent but the production of various metabolites and other compounds changes as does transport in the absence of light. This the shift in processes.
High photosynthetic rates can lead to higher photorespiration rates and thus less efficient photosynthesis as you get closer to photosaturation.
So when pushing plants hard with photosynthesis the dark period is a huge benefit for the plant to catchup sort a speak. Speeding up the change in processes could lead to a lower period of dark needed to catch up. This could lead to taking advantage of a different light cycle such as 6/1 and in turn greatly increase the over all photosynthesis efficiency per day.
Photosynthesis is at its highest rates in the first few hrs… as photorespiration increases as you get closer to photosaturation throughout the day photosynthetic rates decline.
There is still alot to learn on this but evidence is getting there to show this increase efficiency of changing processes is beneficial.
Now this greatly depends on your base to start and how hard your pushing you plant’s as to when you may see a benefit if at all for your specific grow. But all thing ideal then there is a benefit to be seen.
Quantifying that to yourself is no easy feat and thus its gard to say whether anyone will or will not benefit even if the benefits exist
You bet… and lots of great ppl here with tons of knowledge to draw on too. You are active and engaged with the community and if you keep that up the info just keeps flowing between the community. Call it learning through osmosis but before you know it you have learned a ton without even realizing it.I completely agree with everything you just said so saying I don't like to push my plants very far as topping and defolation goes plus I'm only a beginner so I only top once! I just ordered a seed that is very forgiveness to all training so I'm gonna try to learn a little if your will to help me with some of that I would love that! I want to learn everything I can so I'm all ears!
I've done the 11 on 13 off and I ended up with smaller lighter buds than on 12/12 I'm staying 12/12 if it aint broke don't fix it.Photoperiod cannabis plants start flowering once they recieve 12hours of darkness. I've pretty much settled on 11/13 (on/off).
I usually go with 16/8 for veg. Ive tried other veg cycles 24/0, 18/6, 6/2...
6/6 is good if you want to slow down veg growth or keep plants small...
12 hours darkness is the signal for the plants to be flowering, so I personally use 13 (or at least 12.5) so that they definitely get the message, lol.
Research has shown that far red, 730nm, “puts the plants to sleep” much faster. Some studies show as fast as 15-20 mins as opposed to 90-120…..therefore at 12 hours of darkness the plants get 10 hours of “sleep” ….going to a 14/10 while giving them about 30 mins of 730nm red at the end of the light period would give them the same amount of “sleep” as the 12/12 but give you two more hours of light energy for larger yields in the same flowering period….Actually Bruce Bugbee says that sunrise/sunset features in a grow light doesn't do much for the grow. He's stated that there is no evidence suggesting that the instant flash of light when the lights come on stresses the plants. I toyed around with the idea of purchasing a master light controller to do this until I watched his podcast. @Anthem told me it was a must-see before purchasing an item that I don't really need.
@Aqua Man stated there's benefit to using red/far red at dawn and dusk. I've got 8 grow daddy lights and several smart outlet timers. I think I'll be setting up my growdaddy lights on a different timer or different outlet and having them come on 10 minutes before and stay on 10 minutes after my grow light turns on/off during my fall indoor run. Lets see if it makes any recognizable changes in flowering patterns and yield.
Can you link the research that says this? I'd love to read the white paper on this and see if there are any other nuggets that I may find useful for my knowledge base.Research has shown that far red, 730nm, “puts the plants to sleep” much faster. Some studies show as fast as 15-20 mins as opposed to 90-120…..therefore at 12 hours of darkness the plants get 10 hours of “sleep” ….going to a 14/10 while giving them about 30 mins of 730nm red at the end of the light period would give them the same amount of “sleep” as the 12/12 but give you two more hours of light energy for larger yields in the same flowering period….
Dr. Bruce Bugbee has some Youtube vids on it. I think a search there would find what you are looking for but in a video not paper.Can you link the research that says this? I'd love to read the white paper on this and see if there are any other nuggets that I may find useful for my knowledge base.
If I hung a 730nm specific light, aside from the main light I have, how much PPFD would it need to be putting out for it to be effective? Would it be advisable to set it up on a separate timer to go on a few minutes before main light goes off to transition the girls into "get ready for bed" mode and once the main lights shut off and the 730nm is left on for 30 minutes they'll continue into sleep mode(Nyctinasty)?
Cool! Will be reviewing Dr. Bugbee's content.Dr. Bruce Bugbee has some Youtube vids on it. I think a search there would find what you are looking for but in a video not paper.
I added some cheap 4ft red led strip lights into my veg tent along side of my Blue & full spectrumT5' tubes and it definitely stretches out the stems. I noticed after about 2 weeks with them in my veg closet the difference in growth and they do get longer and thinner stalks & branches. I recently finished a GG#4 without support and she looked like an umbrella at the end with everything hanging upside down.Cool! Will be reviewing Dr. Bugbee's content.
Something interesting that pertains to the pheno I'm growing contained in the article link I posted.
1. Shadow avoidance
One of the most important impacts of 730nm far red light on plants is shade avoidance. If a plant is exposed to the only 660nm of super red light, it will feel as if it is under sunlight and will grow normally. If the plant is mainly illuminated by the far red light of 730nm, the plant will feel as if it is blocked by another higher plant to accept lighting from sunlight. so the plant will work harder to break through the blocking, which is to help the plant grow taller, but does not necessarily mean that there will be more biomass .
If the plants you grow get stretched singularly ,meanwhile long and lanky , too much far-red light may be the culprit.plant like this is too weak to hold up the healthy flowers you’re hoping to cultivate. Far-red light can promote stem elongation, but the ratio of far-red light should be based on reasonable science. and scientifically verified.
GG4 stretches like crazy if you let it. I wonder if reducing 730nm during seed and veg would help in keeping these phenotypes from stretching as much as they do then, once flower pistils are set, increase 730nm to activate the growth spurt it provides but in the flowering stage.
I've noticed the difference in growth between 6500k "cold white" light and 3000k warm white light. There's a world of difference.Cool! Will be reviewing Dr. Bugbee's content.
Something interesting that pertains to the pheno I'm growing contained in the article link I posted.
1. Shadow avoidance
One of the most important impacts of 730nm far red light on plants is shade avoidance. If a plant is exposed to the only 660nm of super red light, it will feel as if it is under sunlight and will grow normally. If the plant is mainly illuminated by the far red light of 730nm, the plant will feel as if it is blocked by another higher plant to accept lighting from sunlight. so the plant will work harder to break through the blocking, which is to help the plant grow taller, but does not necessarily mean that there will be more biomass .
If the plants you grow get stretched singularly ,meanwhile long and lanky , too much far-red light may be the culprit.plant like this is too weak to hold up the healthy flowers you’re hoping to cultivate. Far-red light can promote stem elongation, but the ratio of far-red light should be based on reasonable science. and scientifically verified.
GG4 stretches like crazy if you let it. I wonder if reducing 730nm during seed and veg would help in keeping these phenotypes from stretching as much as they do then, once flower pistils are set, increase 730nm to activate the growth spurt it provides but in the flowering stage.
Wow nice and beautiful!I added some cheap 4ft red led strip lights into my veg tent along side of my Blue & full spectrumT5' tubes and it definitely stretches out the stems. I noticed after about 2 weeks with them in my veg closet the difference in growth and they do get longer and thinner stalks & branches. I recently finished a GG#4 without support and she looked like an umbrella at the end with everything hanging upside down.
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It's all in the genetics and following the GH feed schedule + Kool Bloom & I started using Floralicious Plus regularly with feeds about 6 months ago and I 'm hooked. I seem to have healthier plants through out the grow.Wow nice and beautiful!
What's floralicious plus is it a nutrient or fertilizer?It's all in the genetics and following the GH feed schedule + Kool Bloom & I started using Floralicious Plus regularly with feeds about 6 months ago and I 'm hooked. I seem to have healthier plants through out the grow.
IME it will make more, but it also extends the finish time.Hey everyone I was wondering if anyone has ever flowered at 13/11 and were the results good or not worth it let me know I'm thinking about it
Its label says from General HydroponicsWhat's floralicious plus is it a nutrient or fertilizer?
Its base ingredients are vegetable protein hydrolysate, potassium sulfate, 2% humic acid derived from micronized leonardite and 20% sea kelp derived from ascophyllum nodosum.What's floralicious plus is it a nutrient or fertilizer?