Drbloomslab
- 25
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More new growth emerging. Will give updates as plants mature. Just glad to see no more burned leaves 
Heat Stress or Over Feeding on these Jungle boys?
Mazeblue1
- 294
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Heat index down here has been 110-115 also so I brought my girls in, repotted in fresh ffof and will finish in tent.. wanted to put in ground for first time but figured this might happen…
GNick55
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careful not to bring in pest and mold, might want to use something preventative..
Mazeblue1
- 294
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Careful as possible they are about 4 weeks into flower and am seriously thinking about re-vegging.
I was just kind of messing around with these this summer, they flowered on their own in 1 gallon plastic pots now I put them in 5 gallon fabric pots which I’ve never tried..
GNick55
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flowering, you could spray a mix of water/hydrogen peroxide around 5-8% strength to kill what you can..
id spray with no fans on and leave for 15-20 mins or the length of smoking a fat joint than crank on the fans and repeat the next day..
everything in the tent within reason gets sprayed..
good luck!
Mazeblue1
- 294
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I can definitely do that thanks!
GNick55
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cover your medium!
what you growing in? soil? etc
Mazeblue1
- 294
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Fox farm ocean forest and added great white micorrhize as I transplanted.. I know the soil has it but a little more can’t hurt.
GNick55
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you don’t want water/h2o2 getting into your soil!!
GNick55
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have to treat that a different way..
Drbloomslab
- 25
- 3
Beautiful purple striations starting in the stems, I’m guessing this one may show more signs leaning towards Sundae Driver. The strain is Jungle Driver (Sundae Driver #19 x Jungle Cake)
Drbloomslab
- 25
- 3
Update
Drbloomslab
- 25
- 3
Showing signs of yellowing on the bottom leaves starting from the tips and working their way inward
GNick55
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your drowning them.. get them out of the water on the ground
Drbloomslab
- 25
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Thanks, I took this photo right after a feeding
Backyard_Boogie
- 1,162
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OK I am jumping in on this thread delayed so apologies for being late to the party LOL. There are two separate issues going on here. In the beginning when you first posted the pics of the damaged leaves I am almost 100% certain. Basically like 99% certain that was sun scorch. It's a classic leaf sunburn. I know you are probably thinking... wtf? how can a plant get burned by the sun. It is true it happens. This occurred because you took your plants directly from the inside grow tent and jumped them in the direct high UV sun without first hardening them off. This is very very important. I am constantly moving plants from indoor to outdoor and i have seen this issue more times than I can count. What happens is the leaves have not been built up to handle that much sun. It's like a weightlifter trying to jump the bench press from 200lbs straight to 300lbs. Its too much for the leaves to handle and the initial shock from going from indoor artificial light to very intense REAL outdoor sun shocked the plant. the leaves get a classic faded almost whiteish hazy look to them. Followed by drying up browning and shriveling. Classic sun burn. You know it is sun scorch because the initial problem will happen immediately as soon as you put it outside. Then as the plant eventually catches up and adapts to the regular sun it will start to recover and new growth will be healthy. To prevent this shock from happening in the future you need to follow a hardening off regiment. It's a pain in the ass but you gotta do it bro. at this point your plants are past this stage but for future reference or anyone else reading this that wants to know this is how to do it...
I have found 3 favored techniques for this that I prefer to use.
Method #1)
The first method is the one you will see most on the internet. We can call it the gradual approach its probably most labor intensive but it does work. What you do is gradually introduce the plant into the sun in gradual steps. So for instance when you are ready to move it outside you only put in in the direct sun for 1 hour on day one then put it in a shady spot or better yet a partially shaded spot like under a tree with little little light gaps coming through. the next day you move your plant into direct sun for 2 hours then back under the shady tree. Next day move it for 3 hours. And so forth until you get to about day 5 to 7. At that point you have slowly adapted the plant to the sun which allowed the leaves to bulk up and prepare for the onslaught of the sun.
Method #2)
The row cover method. This method is especially good if you are trying to move an indoor plant outside but plant it straight into the ground. This one can be a little bit easier because you don't actually have to move the plant to do it. Go online and but a very small section of a product called row cover. It will be found at any garden center and amazon and ebay definitely have it. I have included a picture of the product below. A row cover is a thin cloth like material that you can buy by the sheet. It is very similar in feel and texture to the static dryer sheets that you put in with your clothes to make them smell fresh. It is white in color and lets only a percentage of UV light pass through. its basically like a plant sun shade canopy. You get 3 or 4 little bamboo sticks and you put them in your pot in either a triangle or square pattern. You take scissors and you cut the row cover to a manageable size thats just big enough to fully cover your plant. You then take a few clips or safety pins and you clip the row cover onto the sticks. Essentially you are making a little cabana. A shade tent that hovers over the top of your plant. This one doesn't work as well if you are in a really windy place but average breeze is fine. You cover the plant and put it in direct sun but with the shade on top. Day one you go outside and unclip the cover for 1 hour. Put it back on for rest of the day. Day two you uncover the plant for 2 hours. Day three for 3 hours.And so on until you reach around day 5 to 7 where you can fully remove the shade cover. These row cover are also a great way to cover your plants at night to keep moths off them. If your plants are large enough and branches robust enough you actually don't even need to use the sticks you can lay the cover right on the plant like in the picture below. For smaller more delicate cannabis plants I recommend the cabana tent method it is easier on new delicate shoots.
Method #3)
By far the easiest method and the one I almost exclusively use when I can. The cloudy days method. Super simple. You go online around the time you are ready to move your plant. Look at the 10 day wether forecast and try to find at least 3 consecutive days where the weather calls for cloudy skies. The more gray the better but you DON'T want it to actually be raining. If you can catch a 3 day overcast window it is a piece of cake. You just move them outside and leave them be. The sun scorch will not happen with cloud cover but there is enough UV coming through the cloud cover that the clouds themselve act as the row cover. Usually after around 3 days of cloudy weather once the sun finally comes they will be ready for it.
OK so now that this is out of the way moving on to the second issue I see. Gnick55 is correct those pots are very wet. I know you just fed and watered them before you took the pic but I can tell by the coloring of the leaves and the way they look that your plant is starting to experience oxygen issues due to the soil being too wet. I would stop watering them for at least 3 days depending on your sun exposure. Let the pots completely dry out. I mean all the way to the very edge of your plants starting to droop a little. You want those girls to get real real thirsty this will let the stagnate water dry out and will allow the air pockets in your soil to refill with oxygen. Your plant is drowning due to lack of oxygen. Once you push her to the point of just starting to droop then easer back into the watering regiment again but do it literally half of what you were doing before. Hope this helps you and other who may find this info useful. Good luck man!
I have found 3 favored techniques for this that I prefer to use.
Method #1)
The first method is the one you will see most on the internet. We can call it the gradual approach its probably most labor intensive but it does work. What you do is gradually introduce the plant into the sun in gradual steps. So for instance when you are ready to move it outside you only put in in the direct sun for 1 hour on day one then put it in a shady spot or better yet a partially shaded spot like under a tree with little little light gaps coming through. the next day you move your plant into direct sun for 2 hours then back under the shady tree. Next day move it for 3 hours. And so forth until you get to about day 5 to 7. At that point you have slowly adapted the plant to the sun which allowed the leaves to bulk up and prepare for the onslaught of the sun.
Method #2)
The row cover method. This method is especially good if you are trying to move an indoor plant outside but plant it straight into the ground. This one can be a little bit easier because you don't actually have to move the plant to do it. Go online and but a very small section of a product called row cover. It will be found at any garden center and amazon and ebay definitely have it. I have included a picture of the product below. A row cover is a thin cloth like material that you can buy by the sheet. It is very similar in feel and texture to the static dryer sheets that you put in with your clothes to make them smell fresh. It is white in color and lets only a percentage of UV light pass through. its basically like a plant sun shade canopy. You get 3 or 4 little bamboo sticks and you put them in your pot in either a triangle or square pattern. You take scissors and you cut the row cover to a manageable size thats just big enough to fully cover your plant. You then take a few clips or safety pins and you clip the row cover onto the sticks. Essentially you are making a little cabana. A shade tent that hovers over the top of your plant. This one doesn't work as well if you are in a really windy place but average breeze is fine. You cover the plant and put it in direct sun but with the shade on top. Day one you go outside and unclip the cover for 1 hour. Put it back on for rest of the day. Day two you uncover the plant for 2 hours. Day three for 3 hours.And so on until you reach around day 5 to 7 where you can fully remove the shade cover. These row cover are also a great way to cover your plants at night to keep moths off them. If your plants are large enough and branches robust enough you actually don't even need to use the sticks you can lay the cover right on the plant like in the picture below. For smaller more delicate cannabis plants I recommend the cabana tent method it is easier on new delicate shoots.
Method #3)
By far the easiest method and the one I almost exclusively use when I can. The cloudy days method. Super simple. You go online around the time you are ready to move your plant. Look at the 10 day wether forecast and try to find at least 3 consecutive days where the weather calls for cloudy skies. The more gray the better but you DON'T want it to actually be raining. If you can catch a 3 day overcast window it is a piece of cake. You just move them outside and leave them be. The sun scorch will not happen with cloud cover but there is enough UV coming through the cloud cover that the clouds themselve act as the row cover. Usually after around 3 days of cloudy weather once the sun finally comes they will be ready for it.
OK so now that this is out of the way moving on to the second issue I see. Gnick55 is correct those pots are very wet. I know you just fed and watered them before you took the pic but I can tell by the coloring of the leaves and the way they look that your plant is starting to experience oxygen issues due to the soil being too wet. I would stop watering them for at least 3 days depending on your sun exposure. Let the pots completely dry out. I mean all the way to the very edge of your plants starting to droop a little. You want those girls to get real real thirsty this will let the stagnate water dry out and will allow the air pockets in your soil to refill with oxygen. Your plant is drowning due to lack of oxygen. Once you push her to the point of just starting to droop then easer back into the watering regiment again but do it literally half of what you were doing before. Hope this helps you and other who may find this info useful. Good luck man!
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