Ok, my plants arent yielding anything! Im growing White Widow on an Ebb and Flow table, and im on the start of week 7 and there isnt shit for yield, like it looks like there on week 3. Now The first two weeks I ran really cold temps in there, im talking like high was 65 low was 50 degrees. Really COLD! But i dont know if that was the cause. Im running Cutting Edge Nutes and im using Half strength on everything im running! But the leaves are curling inwards! and on the tips and i mean the very tips on the leaves are burnt, what is going on in my grow room! I will try and post PICS for more help!
 
Take your PPM and Ph meters and check the measurements out of the tap. You must use these numbers as a baseline to determine proper amounts of nutrients. Also, too much salt in your tap water can cause root lock. This usually starts to show up in flower. It's a condition that prevents plants from absorbing nutrients. They starve and produce little. Ur plants will have dried up looking leaves and little yield.
 
Man, think this is the fourth or fifth thread today I have viewed with someone asking for grow help with no pics and/or no pH, nute info, etc.,etc. No one is going to be able to help you without that info guys! If you do take someone's advice based on what they think they know about your grow without the proper info, more than likely you are just going to make things worse. If you want help, get the info together first and present it so you can fix your problem before your plants are wasted.
 
well PH is 5.9 and PPM is 1450. And i Dont know what my content in my water is. Im sure its bad! And yes, on some of the leaves on the lower leaves there are burn marks! Well....im on week 7 so i know for next grow to use reverse osmosis water!
 
Hello dude.

Its the cold I'm 100% sure of that.

50 is way way too low, minimum temp at your roots should be 68F dude.

If they were that cold for the first two weeks then they would have just gone into shock and dormancy and then it would have taken it anywhere between 1 and 2 weeks to recover (once the temps were up) and start the process of flowering again.

Trust me dude, I live in the UK and it gets blisteringly gold over here, if my Temps go below 65F 18C then my plants slow down and they get brown rust spots on the fan leaves too (explained below).
Most of our problems over here are temperature related and what you're saying is 100% cold symptoms. I've never heard of anything else that stops flowering other than the cold to be honest.
There was a guy in the UK this year who had plants growing in his loft for 14 weeks, after 8 weeks trying to flower at 55F he gave up because the plants just didn't flower at all!!! Not one pistil, just the Calyx's on the stem!

Get your temps up and keep them up to 69F minimum at root level (very very important!! ) day and especially at night dude!!

When the roots get cold the plant is also unable to take up some of the nutrients that should otherwise be available to it at the root zone.
This is most often displayed as a nutrient deficiency, as it is usually one or two specific elements that the plant is unable to take up when it is at a specific cold temperature range. Symptoms such as Brown rust spots on the fan leaves are usually the first sign of this.

Bad temps are a sure way to get in trouble growing, its what causes most problems but people go out and buy all sorts of ointments and tonics for their plants when all they have to do is sort out the environment.

Environmental control is the first thing any grower has to get to grips with if he is to grow healthy plants with high yields.

I hope this helps dude,

...BudZ...
 
Are you running Co2? How big are your plants? Are you using CES's supplements?
Are your leaves dieing on the tip and on the edges maybe some spots, curing up and dieing towards the back of the leave about half way, but not the bud? You have P&K deficines! I'm running CES in UC (under current) system and if you push hard (ppm1800-1900) (stain PK)my girls will eat everything in site, I know thats seems nuts but I've gone as high as 2K! So I'm guessing without pics but I would push P&K(Bloom and Uncle John's blend) and see what new growth looks like, the damaged leaves won't change but new growth will look better. Don't forget to added extra cal/mag if running RO water.
Hope this helps!
Good luck
BHW
 
Here's alittle info on K.
Potassium
Type: primary macronutrient
Necessary for formation of sugars, starches, carbohydrates, protein synthesis and cell division in roots and other parts of the plant. It helps to adjust water balance, improves stem rigidity and cold hardiness, enhances flavor and color on fruit and vegetable crops, increases the oil content of fruits and is important for leafy crops. Just as with P, K uptake is highest during the earliest growth stages. K is associated with sturdy stems and resistance to disease in plants.
Deficiency symptoms: Leaf margins turn chlorotic and then necrotic; scattered chlorotic spots often occur on the leaves, and these spots may later turn necrotic. K deficiencies sometimes show on indoor plants even when there is apparently enough supplied for normal growth. Often, potassium-deficient plants are the tallest and appear to be the most vigorous. Starting on the large lower leaves, the tips of the blades brown and die. Necrotic areas or spots form on the blades, particularly along the margins. Sometimes the leaves are spattered with chlorotic tissue before necrosis develops, and the leaves look pale or yellow.
High amounts of K can cause Ca, Mg, and N deficiencies. High sodium can cause K deficiency.
High soil Mg can reduce K uptake, but it seems to occur only when the soil Mg saturation is in the range of 25% to 30%, or higher.
Numerous studies have looked at the possibility of using the K/(Ca + Mg) ratio to explain certain nutrition problems. While this ratio may be useful at some times, often there is no relationship between these cation ratios and crop performance.
High K levels can help against ammonium toxicity.
There is no evidence that K has a direct elemental toxicity. Excess K is more likely to be experienced first as an induced Mg deficiency. Next on the scale of probable high K damage signs might be induced Ca deficiencies
Does this sound anything like what you have going on? If so up your P/K
Good luck
BHW
 
LOL, its the cold dudes, nothing else stops bud growth like that, I'm 100% sure.

Trust me, its -3 here at the moment. All our troubles and worries are all cold related over here, if we don't sort that out no one is getting bud!

I grow at 2000ppm 6.2 PH in Hempy's. The plants are on full strength nutes (Lucas Formula 0/8/16) from week 2 to Harvest.

If you grow in a Hempy under HID lighting you must use full strength nutes 0/8/16 or the plant will show N def.

0/5/10 is for Fluro's/leds/enviro's (all low level lighting) only.

Just keep the temps up at pot/root level and add 3 weeks to your prescribed flowering time as the plants still need to be actually flowering for 8-10 weeks (whatever is prescribed) to become mature.

...BudZ...

...BudZ...
 
Budillza
I thought he fixed his temp problem, but if it's -3 there and no heat that's his problem for sure! Root temps still in the 50's forget it, your lucky there still alive! Turn on some more lights heat mats, insulation on your res something anything. You have to get those temps up.
BHW
 
yeah mate, he said he sorted it after 2 weeks of cold.

He also said at week 7 they looked like they were at week 3.

2 weeks they would have done nothing at all in that cold and then they would have taken up to another 2 weeks to recover and start making bud = 4 weeks of no or extremely slow growth.
That's why they look like they're at 3 week's, because they are, they are at the 3rd week of development regardless of actual growing time, remember they went dormant for quite a while.
He's actually quite lucky they started flowering at all, I've seen them never flower before because of the cold, it just ruins them mate!!

He has to consider that he is actually at week 3 now not week 7 so if his plants are an 8 week flowering strain, he has still got 5 weeks left to reach full maturity.
If he crops earlier the whole grow will be a waste of time.
He has to just take 4 weeks more on the chin.

Do you get me mate?

Doesn't sound good does it, having to flower for longer, but that is the case in this situation I'm afraid. You'll still get a good crop Rory dude, just not so efficient on lighting and time. Stick it out though and get some nice swollen buds, all the weight packs on in the last 2 weeks so you don't want to miss that.

Seen this so many times on UK420, its like every other sick plant is cold related. I've had it happen to me last October too, there is no other reasonable explanation.
It is actually very uncommon to get any of the diseases apart from LSF

...BudZ...

p.s. Rory dude, whatever you do don't go upping the nutes because you think it looks like its got a deficiency. This is probably just due to the cold causing nute lock-out, I bet your temps have been dropping below 20C every now and then since you say you sorted the temps.
If you add more nute for that supposed ''nute lock out'' then when the plant recovers it will have a nutrient toxicity issue caused by the extra quantities of that specific element that you have added to the root zone. Don't do it I urge you.
No amount of nute will combat the supposed ''nute lock out''. You need to keep your eye on the temps and make sure they never drop below 20C or 68F, if it drops below 65F even momentarily you will have this problem

Have you got a maximum and minimum reading taken on your Hygrometer?? Not what you saw or noted down from looking at the temp gage, but the saved minimum and maximum 'spike' on your hygrometer over say 24 hours??
 
well PH is 5.9 and PPM is 1450. And i Dont know what my content in my water is. Im sure its bad! And yes, on some of the leaves on the lower leaves there are burn marks! Well....im on week 7 so i know for next grow to use reverse osmosis water!

That's fine mate. 5.9 and ppm of under 2000 is never a problem as far as I've seen.:)

I run at PH6.2 and PPM of 2000 from sprouting to Harvest in my Hempy Buckets - Plants absolutely love it, never change the nute mix or PH Its called the Lucas Formula', you must use that over this way.

Watch the COLD!! everything you have is cold related I promise, I don't even have to see a picture. Heard it 1 million times before.

Have I made myself clear yet?? lol:)

Good luck with the rest of the grow dude, I hope you don't get ''scissor happy'' at the end!!

...BudZ...
 
Here is a tip!

I like to use this new stuff called Coco Tech Mat there are tons of diff. coco mediums but this is the only one i will use because all the others could introduce nats and other bugs to ur plants. It comes bout and inch thick but u can rip it in half and make it 1/2 inch thick.
Coco tech mat in action!

The roots shoot down towards the bottom of the mat for the water.
The coco tech mat helps with root rot!!

The roots of my Super Skunk took right to the Coco Tech Mat like velcro.

How high my water levels r in my ebb and flow
 
Hi greenthumb,

nice suggestion mate.

I got a good one for you. Google Fytocell, go the Aqua Resin Technology dot com and look at the Fytoslab's. I reckon they'd be right up your street with your set up bud! I use the Fytoflake for passive hydro in buckets and they absolutely love it, impossible to water log, guaranteed to contain 37% air at all times and up to 60% water when available.
It sucks water up like you would not believe. never any rot, completely inert and pathogen free.

Have a look, all of you. You will be glad you did. It is the future I'm sure!!

...BudZ...
 
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