HID Cooling MH/HPS ballast glass?

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Cashmeh

Cashmeh

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I have a 4x9 space. Hydro res's will use the middle 1x1, leaving me with 2 separate 4x4's. Each will have a 600watt mh and hps.

My question is in regards to using the glass. It will be so cheap and easy to buy 2 inline tube kits, yet I will have to have the glass in the reflectors. Does that take away a spectrum or is it just intensity? I can vent them with massive suction through something like this
Hid cooling mhhps ballast glass
thus being able to leave the glass out. I imagine a huge fan pulling enough air up will suck the heat from a 600watt mh and hps right? I guess thats my main question here. Is all this work that im contemplating worth doing, when its way easier to just build it with the glass using tubes. I feel this setup would require a really large fan and splitter in the middle of the 1x1 above my hydro res's blowing strait outside. Again, is it needed lol . . If i just use 2 of these
Hid cooling mhhps ballast glass 2
well it seems like one inline fan, sucking though one tent, and blowing out the other tent and then outside. Would be 9 foot of strait 6 inch tubing outside at the top of the tent. So simple right lol? Yet these will have glass. Its a 4x4 with a 600watt mh and hps rotation, will it really matter?

Or do you all have any better suggestions. . im a rookie. I cant afford CMH or Leds for both tents, at not least overkill in regards to lighting.

One 4x4 room will be a 1 plant top feed rdwc system, 2-3 month high stress veg scrog usual bs, just wanna have fun with one ya know. The other 4x4 will be a 4 plant top feed rdwc 40 day veg.

My goal is to have under 500 bucks invested into an 8x8 grow area lol. No tents, I have some plywood for partitions and paint on deck.
 
Cashmeh

Cashmeh

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Honestly for 300 bucks I might just get 2 of these kits lol. https://www.ebay.com/itm/183629526155?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&var=691618141179
1619156283567
1000 watts dimmable, 2 of each bulb. . I can upgrade stupid easy and vent that heat easily I imagine since im pulling air from the house instead of the tent, strait piping it with a 6 inch loud inline fan blowing it directly outside, now bends no nothing. How much heat will this put off? Ive seen people being able to hold the glass lol. . I got the go to order the lights right now. 300 bucks for an 8x8 grow room, able to use those lights on alot more than just that right? I could get the 600 watt but why not just get the 1k and dim them? Id rather have this for later. . Again, im buying a building, and have a 16 plant limit lol. . I use hydro and can make 1 plant into king kong if I want. Ive seen a single hydro fill up a 5x5 tent. . . I cant imagine doing that with 16 of them. . anways. . .thoughts and concerns?
 
Pushrod Monkey

Pushrod Monkey

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Honestly for 300 bucks I might just get 2 of these kits lol. https://www.ebay.com/itm/183629526155?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&var=691618141179 View attachment 11162631000 watts dimmable, 2 of each bulb. . I can upgrade stupid easy and vent that heat easily I imagine since im pulling air from the house instead of the tent, strait piping it with a 6 inch loud inline fan blowing it directly outside, now bends no nothing. How much heat will this put off? Ive seen people being able to hold the glass lol. . I got the go to order the lights right now. 300 bucks for an 8x8 grow room, able to use those lights on alot more than just that right? I could get the 600 watt but why not just get the 1k and dim them? Id rather have this for later. . Again, im buying a building, and have a 16 plant limit lol. . I use hydro and can make 1 plant into king kong if I want. Ive seen a single hydro fill up a 5x5 tent. . . I cant imagine doing that with 16 of them. . anways. . .thoughts and concerns?
There’s not much reflectivity with that cool tube. Glass enclosed double insulated air cooled reflector was one of the best buys I’ve made. Without the glass and a good booster fan pushing air through and out of the tent you’re bound to have heat issues.
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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I would recommend a cloudline T8. The 6 will be to small and better off to much and to run a bit lower.

I'd also go with the glass. You can remove it if your room can handle it
 
Cashmeh

Cashmeh

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So just pull the air up through the grow room? I figured I could buypass the grow room completely. I was going to pull the air in from another room, run it strait through
There’s not much reflectivity with that cool tube. Glass enclosed double insulated air cooled reflector was one of the best buys I’ve made. Without the glass and a good booster fan pushing air through and out of the tent you’re bound to have heat issues.


As for the reflectivity, if I go with 1000watt, it wont matter right? Its a 4x4. Im just suggesting one day ill have an 8x8 that I want to use this same setup for. For now I can just turn it down.

I guess my questions are with the open ended reflector instead of strait through tube. I was going to bypass the grow room air with the inline system. Pull air in from another room, inline the 2 lights, and blow it right out side. If I use those open ended reflectors in your link I will now be pulling air up and through the grow room, through the light? I plan on having another inline fan in the center 1x1 area blowing air outside creating a draw up through the plants, with fans. I guess if I use those open end reflectors, i wont need to pull air from another room, and I wont need two, 6 inch fans, just one large one, and a splitter in the middle right? Can I make a T out of those in that link? One fan for both open ended reflectors?


That reflector with glass in it that you linked, its open ended right? So it sucks the air up through the tent, and out of the tent. The fan would be out of the tent blowing out, using that as an inlet right? Wont that work the exact same way as the open ended cool tubes i showed if I do it that same way?

Im assuming the main difference between our links are reflectivity, thus wasting power? Other than extracting the heat from inside the tent, they should work the same right? It seems it might be easier to just do that instead of run 2 lines lol. . one for tent and one for lights, which was what I was planing on doing with these. I still dont think I can beat those kits for 300 bucks. Get me up and going on a 8x8?? Drop another hundo in plastic/rubber shit and boom. . hydro 8x8. . I imagine my yeilds will be stupid compared to my 2x4. 3 plant cheap led shit. Like for a beginner, wont this be overkill for me? Im using a despensary and its 70 quarter. Good shit, but i smoke a shit ton lol. . Im thinking this setup price will be half the price of my led 2x4, and will produce 4x the amount just as well. Sure more over the long run, but once I get full, ill be able to chill out a bit. Right now I realized I need multiple rotations going. . . this seems to be the best way to do that affordably.
 
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Cashmeh

Cashmeh

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After doing more research, i bought one of the 1000w hps and mh cool tube kits. The reflector is shit, but the ballast will handle 1000w, or even 600w, and it comes with both bulbs for 160 bucks. Ill do one set, set it up in a 4x4 on a 4 plant hydro system, see what happens? Whatcha think Aqua? And I dont know how to tag. If this is cheap enough to build this 4x4, ill just get another kit. The only reason why I want to use a 1000w in a 4x4 is due to the size of the building im buying. It has at least 6 8x8 rooms that can be used for 1 plant each hahahah joking. . but you get it, prolly 4 plants fall ponics. I just know For what I want to do I cant ever afford all the best equipment.
 
Pushrod Monkey

Pushrod Monkey

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So just pull the air up through the grow room? I figured I could buypass the grow room completely. I was going to pull the air in from another room, run it strait through



As for the reflectivity, if I go with 1000watt, it wont matter right? Its a 4x4. Im just suggesting one day ill have an 8x8 that I want to use this same setup for. For now I can just turn it down.

I guess my questions are with the open ended reflector instead of strait through tube. I was going to bypass the grow room air with the inline system. Pull air in from another room, inline the 2 lights, and blow it right out side. If I use those open ended reflectors in your link I will now be pulling air up and through the grow room, through the light? I plan on having another inline fan in the center 1x1 area blowing air outside creating a draw up through the plants, with fans. I guess if I use those open end reflectors, i wont need to pull air from another room, and I wont need two, 6 inch fans, just one large one, and a splitter in the middle right? Can I make a T out of those in that link? One fan for both open ended reflectors?


That reflector with glass in it that you linked, its open ended right? So it sucks the air up through the tent, and out of the tent. The fan would be out of the tent blowing out, using that as an inlet right? Wont that work the exact same way as the open ended cool tubes i showed if I do it that same way?

Im assuming the main difference between our links are reflectivity, thus wasting power? Other than extracting the heat from inside the tent, they should work the same right? It seems it might be easier to just do that instead of run 2 lines lol. . one for tent and one for lights, which was what I was planing on doing with these. I still dont think I can beat those kits for 300 bucks. Get me up and going on a 8x8?? Drop another hundo in plastic/rubber shit and boom. . hydro 8x8. . I imagine my yeilds will be stupid compared to my 2x4. 3 plant cheap led shit. Like for a beginner, wont this be overkill for me? Im using a despensary and its 70 quarter. Good shit, but i smoke a shit ton lol. . Im thinking this setup price will be half the price of my led 2x4, and will produce 4x the amount just as well. Sure more over the long run, but once I get full, ill be able to chill out a bit. Right now I realized I need multiple rotations going. . . this seems to be the best way to do that affordably.
You do realize that the open end is generally connected to the proper size ducting. The intake and the exhaust can both be wherever you want them. Check pictures of grow rooms. Note the lack of cool tubes but the presence of air cooled hoods. 1000 watts in a cool tube? Good luck with the heat.
 
Cashmeh

Cashmeh

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You do realize that the open end is generally connected to the proper size ducting. The intake and the exhaust can both be wherever you want them. Check pictures of grow rooms. Note the lack of cool tubes but the presence of air cooled hoods. 1000 watts in a cool tube? Good luck with the heat.

I get that, but if its not lol, wont it work just like the other larger ones? I dont understand how its different I guess. I watched a few videos on people running them and they held the glass. He vented strait though though as you said. Again, I will have that option, but im going to try turning it down for now and just leaving it open ended. Is it a fire hazard or something? The only real thing I notice is the reflector is shit, which I can easy create one.

1619167017849


This is what I am thinking except I dont know why it would matter which side the fan was on, and where the inlet was.

Again, these things dont seem to have heating issues as to they work identical to an air cooled hood right? What am I missing, I dont wanna just be repetative ya know.


Like this video below the guy holds his 600w in hand, they seem amazing to be honest. Im reffering to cheap upfront costs, and large output. My goal is to buy one more kit too lol, have 2 of these going one day. . idk it just seems so easy
 
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Cashmeh

Cashmeh

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Ended up doing a 4x8 with one tube ballast. The hydro pots will be connected with rubber adapters allowing me to stretch them out.

I am going to clean up, finish the mylar, then build my bucket system.

Starting 6 pots in a 4x4 for veg. Will extend pots at flower for an 8x8. I will also install another tube kit giving me 2 - 1000w for a 4x8.. 6 plant system.

Light is hanging 2 feet above the Guage and was on for a good hour. Setting on ballast was at 600w.
 
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MedicalHydroponics

MedicalHydroponics

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There is a FREE PAR Meter app in PPFD for your "smart phone". It's called Photone, Use that instead. Great tool so plants don't burn (Many have lights way too close). I'm sticking with HPS/MH as well, air cooled, sealed room, Co2 is a must. If you can get 1.2lbs-2+lbs per light, I don't see the need for Led's. Read up on "DLI" and change to a 17/7 Veg, 11/13 Flower with that savings on E-bill, And a good harvest of Grade A cannabis. Going to need a lazor temp gun Lowes/homedepot you can read leaf temps and hood temps + room temps (Any temps ) AIR FLOW/Temps/Humidity....
very important don't want bud rot/mold.

Even the pros have this problem. Seed/Clone/Veg/Flower/Dry/Cure.... Huge Steps that can't have errors.
#1 Canopy needs to be 4ft x 4ft (600w) or 5ft x 5ft (1000w) 2ft DEEP both. In a 4'x8' canopy needs to be 5ft x 10Ft x 2ft D. that's how you get the big yeilds with HPS/MH.
Mh for Veg gives you tight nodes, HPS for flower big buds without PGR.

Anyway that's just my take. And I'm only talking about single ended not the "DE" which need 10ft-12ft ceilings.
 
Cashmeh

Cashmeh

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Here's my current setup, I'm not sealed though so I can't run co2 yet. I suck air through my ballasts to cool my room. I plan on converting it.. I should now.. But I just don't have the time for anything I want to do lol.. Just doing what will work for now.
 
MedicalHydroponics

MedicalHydroponics

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In sealed or not sealed room, ballasts should be outside grow area it's a must. They put out major heat, Res should be outside as well.
Efficient is the goal without overpaying... Under 83 degrees F leaf temps, water temp under 74 degrees F. In a unsealed room air coming in needs to be hepa filtered
or you will get mold spores/bugs. Air exchange intake/exhaust should be on a timer waste of $ to run non stop. plus you don't need that
much air going in or out. Plants only need the Co2 not oxygen.
Night time temps are what make your day temps, No more than a 10 degree F swing, same goes for Humidity 10 % swing.

Btw Roots look good ready for transplant in new home.
 
Cashmeh

Cashmeh

2,007
263
In sealed or not sealed room, ballasts should be outside grow area it's a must. They put out major heat, Res should be outside as well.
Efficient is the goal without overpaying... Under 83 degrees F leaf temps, water temp under 74 degrees F. In a unsealed room air coming in needs to be hepa filtered
or you will get mold spores/bugs. Air exchange intake/exhaust should be on a timer waste of $ to run non stop. plus you don't need that
much air going in or out. Plants only need the Co2 not oxygen.
Night time temps are what make your day temps, No more than a 10 degree F swing, same goes for Humidity 10 % swing.

Btw Roots look good ready for transplant in new home.
Yea ballasts are outside room same with res.

Yea the roots look good now but I have to cut the hell out of them before transplant.
 
MedicalHydroponics

MedicalHydroponics

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Yea ballasts are outside room same with res.

Yea the roots look good now but I have to cut the hell out of them before transplant.
Timing is everything, I'd also get a Laser Temperature Gun, I went to Lowes and got a "General IRT217" does C/F. You can fix hot spots in a room quick, add a fan here and there, or A/C.
 
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