How do I maintain my hydroguard colony?

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Cashmeh

Cashmeh

I run 72 temp, and have some light leaks I cant fix. This causes major root rot growth, and im combating it with hydroguard.

My problem comes after res changes and only after res changes. My roots were in good shape before the res change and two days later they were near black, the darkest ive seen them. I completely forgot to massage them constantly after my res change.

All this brings me to my question.

I want to keep the colony in the res after my res change. Im only adding two ml of hydrogard per gallon after my res change. Being I get massive root rot after res change, and adding this amount of hydroguard, its safe to that my colony grows and 2ml per gallon isnt enough. From my understanding the micros can eat my plants nutrients. This guy gave me something called "fish shit" meant for live systems but im hesitant. I literally hate doing res changes. My last res change lasted 5 weeks. Its stupid, I only changed it out because it had been so long. I never even topped it off lol. I just let it drop down from 20 gallon to 12 gallons haha, then its like instead of topping it off, i just dumped it all, and whipped up a new mix for it. . . I dont understand why 2ml per gallon wont work at the beginning, but after a week of massaging the roots, then everything is fine and I dont have to. It makes me think my hydroguard colony is multiplying over time thus fixing my issue and keeping it in check. Once i drain, i loose all my lil friends who help me, and the new guys just cant stop fucking and breeding or something. . lol idk man, they just aint eating the pythium.

Im wondering if I put a spounge in the res, drill a lil hole in it, and shove some roots down in it. . if it will hold a colony during a res change. Obviously I can just dump a shit ton of hydroguard into it, but thats expensive.

I guess im asking, can i create my own colony so I dont have to buy hydroguard and keep it alive somewhere and just pull out of it?


If you read this, and are like this mother fuckers retarted. . please dont reply lol. .
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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I run 72 temp, and have some light leaks I cant fix. This causes major root rot growth, and im combating it with hydroguard.

My problem comes after res changes and only after res changes. My roots were in good shape before the res change and two days later they were near black, the darkest ive seen them. I completely forgot to massage them constantly after my res change.

All this brings me to my question.

I want to keep the colony in the res after my res change. Im only adding two ml of hydrogard per gallon after my res change. Being I get massive root rot after res change, and adding this amount of hydroguard, its safe to that my colony grows and 2ml per gallon isnt enough. From my understanding the micros can eat my plants nutrients. This guy gave me something called "fish shit" meant for live systems but im hesitant. I literally hate doing res changes. My last res change lasted 5 weeks. Its stupid, I only changed it out because it had been so long. I never even topped it off lol. I just let it drop down from 20 gallon to 12 gallons haha, then its like instead of topping it off, i just dumped it all, and whipped up a new mix for it. . . I dont understand why 2ml per gallon wont work at the beginning, but after a week of massaging the roots, then everything is fine and I dont have to. It makes me think my hydroguard colony is multiplying over time thus fixing my issue and keeping it in check. Once i drain, i loose all my lil friends who help me, and the new guys just cant stop fucking and breeding or something. . lol idk man, they just aint eating the pythium.

Im wondering if I put a spounge in the res, drill a lil hole in it, and shove some roots down in it. . if it will hold a colony during a res change. Obviously I can just dump a shit ton of hydroguard into it, but thats expensive.

I guess im asking, can i create my own colony so I dont have to buy hydroguard and keep it alive somewhere and just pull out of it?


If you read this, and are like this mother fuckers retarted. . please dont reply lol. .
Ok so you can but the issue is no way to verify it...

Once you have root rot you need to eliminate it. If you fail to it going to be a never ending battle. Very key to keep the roots in the hydroton innoculated.

Why cant you fix the light leak?

 
Cashmeh

Cashmeh

Ok so you can but the issue is no way to verify it...

Once you have root rot you need to eliminate it. If you fail to it going to be a never ending battle. Very key to keep the roots in the hydroton innoculated.

Why cant you fix the light leak?

I need to paint everything black and have to tear it all apart to do so. My white pvc lines are about the only thing light can go through. Also, where my res is outside the room, the white pvc needs taken out because it goes through a wall and painted or taped.

With less than a month left till harvest, i was going to just do it then.

As for the hydroton innoculated, does that mean keeping it full of fluid for the time being. Should I submerge the entire netpot?

What type of enzymes would you reccomend? I dont even know what an enzyme is, just had to google innoculated too btw.
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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I need to paint everything black and have to tear it all apart to do so. My white pvc lines are about the only thing light can go through. Also, where my res is outside the room, the white pvc needs taken out because it goes through a wall and painted or taped.

With less than a month left till harvest, i was going to just do it then.

As for the hydroton innoculated, does that mean keeping it full of fluid for the time being. Should I submerge the entire netpot?

What type of enzymes would you reccomend? I dont even know what an enzyme is, just had to google innoculated too btw.
Just cover it black tape.

Hygrozyme or komplete. Many out there and some even use pondzyme because it cheap although I can't speak to it.

You are going to need to put in a solid 4 days of work to clear it up... no skipping or skimping on steps.

Like I said many times. Temps don't cause root rot but they sure do increase the metabolism of microbes and the plants. You will need to be diligent to beat it. It's no joke.
 
Cashmeh

Cashmeh

Just cover it black tape.

Hygrozyme or komplete. Many out there and some even use pondzyme because it cheap although I can't speak to it.

You are going to need to put in a solid 4 days of work to clear it up... no skipping or skimping on steps.

Like I said many times. Temps don't cause root rot but they sure do increase the metabolism of microbes and the plants. You will need to be diligent to beat it. It's no joke.
Man the dude sold me hygrozyme, ive had it but never used it.

After two massages its no longer black, its still slimy, lights are out in 1 hour :( so I am massaging them lightly every 15 min until then, and will do so in the morning. . they were so slimey, but now they are almost back to their original color. . .once ive found it, ive always been able to cure it. . it just shouldnt get this bad after res changes. . . and then just clear up. . I have a pump filter that catches everything that comes out, I pull it, clean it, literally black gunk. . .now slightly brown gunk lol. . then put it back clean, massage roots until i feel no slime, wait 15 min, unplugg the filter and redo. . .

If i dont do a res change or even just one res change after flipping, I will only have this issue then. Like once I fix this, I wont have to massage them and worry about it. . its wild.

I guess im confident with enough finger fucking and hydroguard i can get rid of it. I guess ill add some of this hygrozyme, it says 8-10ml per gallon, and im sure its gonna throw off my ppm that I have dialed in.

Gonna dive into microbe learning now until I understand it better. Never really needed it, but massaging them sucks because the lids heavy and the buds brush other plants and its just dumb. .

Do you think light proofing those white pvc and 10ml per gal of hygrozymer will fix my res change issues until I understand the microbes a bit better.
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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Man the dude sold me hygrozyme, ive had it but never used it.

After two massages its no longer black, its still slimy, lights are out in 1 hour :( so I am massaging them lightly every 15 min until then, and will do so in the morning. . they were so slimey, but now they are almost back to their original color. . .once ive found it, ive always been able to cure it. . it just shouldnt get this bad after res changes. . . and then just clear up. . I have a pump filter that catches everything that comes out, I pull it, clean it, literally black gunk. . .now slightly brown gunk lol. . then put it back clean, massage roots until i feel no slime, wait 15 min, unplugg the filter and redo. . .

If i dont do a res change or even just one res change after flipping, I will only have this issue then. Like once I fix this, I wont have to massage them and worry about it. . its wild.

I guess im confident with enough finger fucking and hydroguard i can get rid of it. I guess ill add some of this hygrozyme, it says 8-10ml per gallon, and im sure its gonna throw off my ppm that I have dialed in.

Gonna dive into microbe learning now until I understand it better. Never really needed it, but massaging them sucks because the lids heavy and the buds brush other plants and its just dumb. .

Do you think light proofing those white pvc and 10ml per gal of hygrozymer will fix my res change issues until I understand the microbes a bit better.
You want to clean them outside the system So your not just rubbing of the pythium back into the system.

Don't even worry about the ppm it adds.
 
Cashmeh

Cashmeh

You want to clean them outside the system So your not just rubbing of the pythium back into the system.

Don't even worry about the ppm it adds.
I will do that in the AM, little to stoned and not enough time atm. So all that shits still gonna be in my water, and i just did a res change. You suggest I clean them outside the system, then dump the system and start over right, but with hygrozyme? I have used this hygrozyme once on my dwc after this same issue, but it didnt really help near as much as massaging them, and i even submerged them. I basically still had to massage them, but your saying I still had root rot in my system.

I guess i just dont like dumping my nutrient mix, and given every time I do, i get this issue lol. Normally how I would fix it is to just do as I listed above but now the pots are heavy and the buds are snagging other buds, and actually falling over now, i think one broke or something, it just gave way and has no more strenght, wish I would have used my scrog nett. . . buds are getting massive, well compared to what im use to that is, they are nothing compared to what ive seen on here. I imagine if I harvest now, it will be dog shit that I wont want :( The DWC system btw between them is perfect after res changes, but its way more light proof, not even perfect though.

Does a live system need pythium? Do I need hydroguard if im steril? If I light proof the container, and have no pythium, then i dont need hydroguard correct and am actually running a sterile system? Are there other types of live systems that do not use hydroguard and pythium lol. . im thinking im only live because i suck at hydro, and if I say i run a live system, its because im a bad grower. So if I want to be a good grower, and run a live system, what would I do from here? Do I need pythium or should I say create small light leaks that way the hydroguard is needed?

Im thinking without taking a biology refresher and then microbiology I shouldnt be attempting a live system, and im really not doing a live system like say you would lol. . .

While I got you, can I ask you why you chose drip/runoff method? I understand your reasoning behind lighting but not this just yet. How come you dont do Aero? I enjoy the balancing effort vs yeild, but am wondering if you would reccomend me ditching all of this and just doing a drip method, for my next grow. Honestly its the last thing I want to learn, if ever, due to the runoff. . .
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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I will do that in the AM, little to stoned and not enough time atm. So all that shits still gonna be in my water, and i just did a res change. You suggest I clean them outside the system, then dump the system and start over right, but with hygrozyme? I have used this hygrozyme once on my dwc after this same issue, but it didnt really help near as much as massaging them, and i even submerged them. I basically still had to massage them, but your saying I still had root rot in my system.

I guess i just dont like dumping my nutrient mix, and given every time I do, i get this issue lol. Normally how I would fix it is to just do as I listed above but now the pots are heavy and the buds are snagging other buds, and actually falling over now, i think one broke or something, it just gave way and has no more strenght, wish I would have used my scrog nett. . . buds are getting massive, well compared to what im use to that is, they are nothing compared to what ive seen on here. I imagine if I harvest now, it will be dog shit that I wont want :( The DWC system btw between them is perfect after res changes, but its way more light proof, not even perfect though.

Does a live system need pythium? Do I need hydroguard if im steril? If I light proof the container, and have no pythium, then i dont need hydroguard correct and am actually running a sterile system? Are there other types of live systems that do not use hydroguard and pythium lol. . im thinking im only live because i suck at hydro, and if I say i run a live system, its because im a bad grower. So if I want to be a good grower, and run a live system, what would I do from here? Do I need pythium or should I say create small light leaks that way the hydroguard is needed?

Im thinking without taking a biology refresher and then microbiology I shouldnt be attempting a live system, and im really not doing a live system like say you would lol. . .

While I got you, can I ask you why you chose drip/runoff method? I understand your reasoning behind lighting but not this just yet. How come you dont do Aero? I enjoy the balancing effort vs yeild, but am wondering if you would reccomend me ditching all of this and just doing a drip method, for my next grow. Honestly its the last thing I want to learn, if ever, due to the runoff. . .
Because pure hydro I'm limited to the sited I build. If running photos and I have 4 sites and end up with 3 males I'm hooped. With a drain to waste I can start as many plants as I want and chuck as many as I need at any time.

It's just more versatile is all. But definitely my hydro was way more of a beast in terms of growth rates.

Tldr: personal preference for my needs.

Sterile needs h202 every 2-3 days and imo if you get rot you can control it but not cure it.

Roots and plants get infections when things aren't healthy or stressed. Maybe you have to much movement for air or water and it's damaging the roots? Hard to say the cause but usually a healthy plant in a live system is really resistant to root rot.
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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Do a res change next time and follow the post I made to a tee... there are no guarantees but it's a very successful method.
 
Dr.Green55

Dr.Green55

Look into Bio clean as well, its cheap and has more strains of bacteria/enzymes in it. I had very good results using it . its all I use now
 
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