How To Reverse Sex Using Silver Thiosulfate Solution

Texas Kid

Some guy with a light
How To Reverse Sex Using Silver Thiosulfate Solution
The following is a safe, inexpensive, and successful method for reversing the sex of female cannabis plants. Individual plant responses may vary based upon strain, but I can verify that this process is fully effective in stimulating profuse staminate flower production.

This process can be used to:

A: create new feminized seeds from solitary prize mothers that you currently have
B: create interesting feminized-seed hybrids from different prize strains that you currently have
C: create feminized seeds for optimum outdoor use
D: accelerate the "interview" phase of cultivation, in searching for interesting new clone-mothers
E: reduce total plant numbers- great for medical users with severe plant number restrictions
F: increase variety, by helping to create stable feminized seedlines to be used as an alternative to clones

At the bottom of this post are some specific details about the chemicals used, their safety, their cost, and where to get them.

It is important to educate yourself about cannabis breeding theory and technique prior to using a method like this one. Here is a link to Robert Clarke's "Marijuana Botany", which is a very good reference.

"Marijuana Botany" by Robert Connell Clarke
(unfortunately missing the appendices)
Marijuana Botany

It is also important to use basic safety precautions when mixing and handling these chemicals, so read the safety data links provided. The risk is similar to mixing and handling chemical fertilizers, and similar handling procedures are sufficient.

Remember: nothing will ever replace good genetics, and some of your bounty should always go back towards the professional cannabis breeders out there... the ones who have worked for many generations to come up with their true-breeding F1 masterpieces. Support professional breeders by buying their seeds. Also, order from Heaven's Stairway. Not that they need a plug from me, but they are very professional and provide very fast service worldwide.
Preparation of STS:

First, a stock solution is made. It consists of two parts (A and B) that are initially mixed separately, then blended together. Part A is ALWAYS mixed into part B while stirring rapidly. Use distilled water; tap water may cause precipitates to form.

Wear gloves while mixing and using these chemicals, and mix and use in a properly ventilated area. A mask will prevent the breathing of any dust, which is caustic. STS is colorless and odorless, and poses minimal health risks if used as described here. (See material safety data sheet links below). Note that silver nitrate and STS can cause brown stains upon drying, so spray over newspaper and avoid spilling.

Part A: .5 gram silver nitrate stirred into 500ml distilled water
Part B: 2.5 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 500ml distilled water

The silver nitrate dissolves within 15 seconds. The sodium thiosulfate takes 30-45 seconds to dissolve.

The silver nitrate solution (A) is then mixed into the sodium thiosulfate solution (B) while stirring rapidly. The resulting blend is stock silver thiosulfate solution (STS).

This stock solution is then diluted at a ratio of 1:9 to make a working solution. For example, 100ml of stock STS is added to 900ml of distilled water. This is then sprayed on select female plants.

Both the stock STS and the working solution should be refrigerated after use, as well as the powdered chemicals, to avoid activity loss. Excess working solution can be safely poured down the drain after use (with ample running water) with negligible environmental impact. It's pretty cheap.

Each liter of stock STS will make ten 1-liter batches of working solution of STS. With the minimum amount of base chemicals ordered from Photographer's Formulary (see link below), this means that each 1-liter bottle of working solution STS costs less than 9 cents, and can treat 15-20 mid-sized plants. That's 200 1-liter batches of STS for $18. Note that the distilled water costs far more than the chemicals.

The STS working solution is sprayed on select female plants until runoff. Do the spraying over newspaper in a separate area from the flower room. You probably won't smell anything, but ventilate anyway. You now have what I call a "F>M plant"; a female plant that will produce male flowers.

After the F>M plant dries move it into 12/12 immediately. This is usually done three to four weeks prior to the date that the target (to be pollinated) plants will be ready to pollinate. Response times may vary slightly depending upon the strain. More specific times can be determined by trial with your own individual strains. In my trials it took 26 days for the first pollen. 30-35 days seems optimum for planning purposes.

So, assuming that a target plant needs 3-4 weeks to produce fully mature seeds, a strain that takes 8 weeks to mature should be moved into flower at about the same time as the female>male plant. A target plant that finishes flowering in 6 weeks needs to be moved into flower later (10 days or so) so that it doesn't finish before the seeds can fully mature.

A seeded individual branch can be left to mature on a plant for a bit longer, while harvesting the other seedless buds if they finish first. Just leave enough leaves on for the plant for it to stay healthy.


Within days I noticed a yellowing of the leaves on the F>M plants. This effect persisted for two weeks or so; after this they became green again, except for a few of the larger fans. The plants otherwise seemed healthy. No burning was observed. Growth stopped dead for the first ten days, and then resumed slowly. No stretch was ever seen. After two weeks the F>M plants were obviously forming male flower clusters. Not just a few clusters of balls, but complete male flower tops. One plant still formed some pistillate flowers, but overall it was predominantly male.

It is strange indeed to see an old girlfriend that you know like the back of your hand go through a sex change. I'll admit that things were awkward between us at first.

When the F>M plants look like they may soon open and release pollen, ( 3-1/2 to 4 weeks) move them from the main flower room into another unventilated room or closet with lighting on a 12/12 timer. Don't worry too much about watts per square foot; it will only be temporary.

When the pollen flies, move your target plants into the closet and pollinate.

A more controlled approach is to isolate the F>M plants in a third remote closet (no light is necessary in this one, as they are releasing pollen now and are nearly finished anyway). In this remote other closet the pollen is very carefully collected in a plastic produce bag or newspaper sleeve and then brought back to the lighted closet, where the target plants are now located. If this is done, be careful to not mix pollen types by letting the F>Ms dust each other. Avoid movement, or use yet another closet.

Take special care to not let pollen gather on the outside of this bag- a static charge is sometimes present. Drop small open clusters of blooms inside and then close the bag at the mouth and shake. Important: next, step outside and slowly release the excess air from the bag, collapsing it completely, so that pollen doesn't get released accidently. Point downwind; don't let it get on your hands or clothes.

This collapsed pollinated bag is now very carefully slipped over only one branch and is then tied off tightly at the mouth around the branch stem with a twist tie or tape, sealing the pollen inside. Let the bag inflate slightly with air again before sealing it off, so the branch can breathe. This technique keeps the entire plant from seeding. Agitate the bag a bit after tying it off to distribute the pollen. Don't forget to label the branch so you know which seeds are which. Other branches on this same plant can be hit with different pollen sources.

If no lighted closet is available, the plant can be moved back into the main room, but- be very careful: pollen is sneaky. After 4-5 days, the bag is gently removed and the plant completes it's flowering cycle.

Yet another method has worked well for me. I position the target plants in a non-ventilated lighted closet, and then I collect pollen on a piece of mirror or glass. This is then carefully applied to the pistils of one pre-labeled branch by using a very fine watercolor paintbrush. Care is taken to not agitate the branch or the pollen. No sneezing. The plant needs to be in place first; moving it after pollination can shake pollen free and blow this technique.

Regardless of technique, at completion you will have feminized seeds. Let them dry for 2-4 weeks.
About the chemicals:

Silver nitrate is a white crystalline light-sensitive chemical that is commonly used in photography. It is also used in babies' eyes at birth to prevent blindness. It can cause mild skin irritation, and it stains brown. Avoid breathing. I didn't notice any smell or fumes, but ventilation is recommended. Be sure to wash the spray bottle well before you use it elsewhere; better yet: devote a bottle to STS use. A half gram is a surprisingly small amount; it would fit inside a gel capsule.

Here are links to some safety data. A Google search will bring up more information if needed.

Silver Nitrate info:
ICSC:NENG1116 International Chemical Safety Cards (WHO/IPCS/ILO) | CDC/NIOSH solution.pdf

For a realistic hazard level comparison, here is a link for the safety and handling data for Ammonium Nitrate, or common fertilizer:
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Sodium thiosulfate is also a white crystalline chemical commonly used in photography; it is used in photographic fixers. Same general cautions apply, minus the staining. This formula uses the anhydrous type. Non-hazardous.

Sodium Thiosulfate info:


Where to get the chemicals:

Photographic chemicals, photo chemistry, photo processing equipment, photo chemicals

silver nitrate: 10 grams: $10

sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous): 100 grams: $3.95
hey TK would love to try this out but the links you left do not work, can you check into the link to see what the problem might be....i would rather order it then go into a photo place and ask for chem's you know what i mean..


I would advise people to avoid STS, it's nasty and dangerous. Colloidal Silver works just as well and is harmless. All you need to make CS is a glass jar, some distilled water, a couple of pieces of silver wire and a power supply, leabe it running overnight and in the morning you have a jar full of CS.

you can order silver nitrate online from very careful because its highly toxic...i would go with BH's method....but i dont dabble in feminised lines.....all these hippies contradicitng themselves.....


Nice thread TEX...I also use CS with decent results...Tried to order the STS stuff from that link you provided a while ago and they asked me to fill out a DEA report...FUck that...I passed..Was this written by KATSU??? he recommended the same place for the STS stuff???~ogr

Texas Kid

Some guy with a light
This is just another bit I snagged over the years, I am sure the links aren't active from the post or it would suprise me if they where anyways, I always keep stuff like this for historiacal reference and I don't like to leave out the credit lines or bibliography cuz sometimes there is good stuff there as well but you gotta go on the hunt..

Anyways, sorry the links don't work

yup raskal thats EXACTLY why i dont want to go into a photo shop and ask for shit i know nothing about, a simple Question from the person in the shop could in my search but quick...

i have what i need to do the CS but from what ive read the STS is much better, ahh but then again ive never tried either....

how long do the silver sticks/rods need to be??...the ones i have are only about an inch long at best, but they were given to me so i cant complain..
I would advise people to avoid STS, it's nasty and dangerous. Colloidal Silver works just as well and is harmless. All you need to make CS is a glass jar, some distilled water, a couple of pieces of silver wire and a power supply, leabe it running overnight and in the morning you have a jar full of CS.
Thanks BH I was going to suggest the same.

STS is FAR MORE effective that colloidal silver--the Na-thio facilitates transport of the silver ions into the plant.

If you want to do one better, check out a product called Stamen~It.... it acts via multiple hormone pathways, not just the ethylene pathway, to produce the most pollen I've seen of any reversal spray.

I spoke with the owner of the company last week, and they've had some problems with their web designer and are hoping to have their new web site and retail info out very soon.

Hope that helps,


I'm not a fan of feminised seed personally, I think it is better to cross an elite cut to a recessive male and do the hard work of backcrossing and linebreeding rather than just making S1s. My interest in sex reversal of females is purely as a breeding tool to analyse the genetics of a female you are planning to work with - growing out a batch of S1s can give you a lot of insight into the genes of the original female imho.
Just made my first batch usin a 9v 800ma ac to dc adapter alligator clipped to some pure silver coins dangled in water for a day. started spraying and was finna throw the males into flower in a week.
Depends on what the use is. Not sure on plant reversal but if you brewing it for consumption they recommend you use a ppm meter to make sure its not to strong. If using it just for plant reversal I would venture a guess that higher ppm would be more effective/less needed. I have brewed quite a bit but am no expert what so ever.


Premium Member
Im glad i stocked up on a lifetime supply of the STS chemicals before they started making you fill out the DEA forms....I gave tons away and still have too much:)...



I'm not a fan of feminised seed personally, I think it is better to cross an elite cut to a recessive male and do the hard work of backcrossing and linebreeding rather than just making S1s. My interest in sex reversal of females is purely as a breeding tool to analyse the genetics of a female you are planning to work with - growing out a batch of S1s can give you a lot of insight into the genes of the original female imho.
I had an good chat with Aaron of DNA at spannabis, he said there were some interesting plants coming out of their S1 experimentations.

On a slight tangent, what about F1 crosses ? If say, you have a prize Deep Chunk lady that you want to pollinate with Cheese, would you not be best to reverse the Cheese cut and have a feminised F1 cross or are there reasons this is not a good idea ?
My last batch of colloidal silver was at 20ppm after using distilled 0ppm water as a start.
It worked great and huge clusters of male flowers formed. On a side note....I ordered sodium thiosulphate and silver nitrate recently. I ordered from 2 suppliers. I component from each as luck would have it. The gal at the one place said afterward that if I had ordered both ingredients from their shop, that they would have had to have all my info for the government...but as I only ordered one part from them, that they would not need any info at all!!!