Hydro masters please help me !

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Wanwan

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I'm not an expert on hydro, just learning myself, but if you think it's showing deficiencies, have you considered something as simple as raising your ppm's?

Are you running different strains here? If so, they often have different needs nutritionally.

Let's see if @Moe.Red has time to chime in and help. There is a lot more information that you could give that would be helpful, nutrient type, live vs. sterile, water temps etc.....give as much information as you can even if you think it's not important. They definitely do not look good for 5 weeks in flower and I think your nutrients have a lot to do with that from what I can tell.
Yes, lots more info needed

Really not a hydro guy - light is another possibility? What do you consider a correct ph ? Not familiar with any of those nutes sorry

I have a diary on another site. I leave the link if you want to have a look. sorry forgot to send the message.

Link: https://growdiaries.com/diaries/159663-grow-journal-by-lancelot420
 
Cashmeh

Cashmeh

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Your issue is lockout. Your ppms are raising instead of dropping, meaning your plant is drinking more water than it is eat nutrients, and its leave excess nutrients behind, aka lockout, aka nutrient burn. In hydro, our ppms slowly fall and our ph slowly rises. You have stated over and over your ppms are rising, well thtat is the issue. You are running way to much of something, and not near enough of something else prolly.
So we need exact numbers also, lots. ..like the consensus is lockout. Are you using RO water to start? What is your RH, and exact ph, and what pen do you use to test ph and ppm with.
Make sure to use 1/2 the suppliers recommended dosage, unless your AN. What is your water temp, your lux, every bottle you use and how often you add what. . . per gallon.
 
Cashmeh

Cashmeh

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I see your ratios, and I use the same. During flower you dont need to use the green bottle. I would do a 50/50 ratio of bloom and micro. Yet, you will need to add calmag every other time you add micro. Idk if your doing top offs, or full res changes but yea let us know some more info. What are you using for ph up also? Im assuming most of your nutrients are Calcium and Potassium. The plants love micro ok, but not so much of the calmag and the grow. I use athena balance instead of ph up and instead of the grow bottle. It has K in it, and silica for alkalinity and stability. I dont do res changes, at the end of the grow I waste around 5 gallons per plant, thats it. Its very easy to understand whats going on in your pot. Any aquarium strip with Nitrate levels and hardness levels are a requirement for stability. I run 15 gallon per plant. I add Equal ratios of pretty much everything at the start, balance, micro, and bloom. Then 3 days later I add water, then Micro. 6 days later ill add Calmag, a little micro, and some balance. 9 days later ill add some micro and some bloom, 12 days later ill add some calmag and some bloom and a splash of balance.
 
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Wanwan

12
3
I see your ratios, and I use the same. During flower you dont need to use the green bottle. I would do a 50/50 ratio of bloom and micro. Yet, you will need to add calmag every other time you add micro. Idk if your doing top offs, or full res changes but yea let us know some more info. What are you using for ph up also? Im assuming most of your nutrients are Calcium and Potassium. The plants love micro ok, but not so much of the calmag and the grow. I use athena balance instead of ph up and instead of the grow bottle. It has K in it, and silica for alkalinity and stability. I dont do res changes, at the end of the grow I waste around 5 gallons per plant, thats it. Its very easy to understand whats going on in your pot. Any aquarium strip with Nitrate levels and hardness levels are a requirement for stability. I run 15 gallon per plant. I add Equal ratios of pretty much everything at the start, balance, micro, and bloom. Then 3 days later I add water, then Micro. 6 days later ill add Calmag, a little micro, and some balance. 9 days later ill add some micro and some bloom, 12 days later ill add some calmag and some bloom and a splash of balance.
I see your ratios, and I use the same. During flower you dont need to use the green bottle. I would do a 50/50 ratio of bloom and micro. Yet, you will need to add calmag every other time you add micro. Idk if your doing top offs, or full res changes but yea let us know some more info. What are you using for ph up also? Im assuming most of your nutrients are Calcium and Potassium. The plants love micro ok, but not so much of the calmag and the grow. I use athena balance instead of ph up and instead of the grow bottle. It has K in it, and silica for alkalinity and stability. I dont do res changes, at the end of the grow I waste around 5 gallons per plant, thats it. Its very easy to understand whats going on in your pot. Any aquarium strip with Nitrate levels and hardness levels are a requirement for stability. I run 15 gallon per plant. I add Equal ratios of pretty much everything at the start, balance, micro, and bloom. Then 3 days later I add water, then Micro. 6 days later ill add Calmag, a little micro, and some balance. 9 days later ill add some micro and some bloom, 12 days later ill add some calmag and some bloom and a splash of balance.
Thank you my friend for your explanatory comment. I'm doing almost everything right, but I noticed something yesterday and I'm pretty sure it's the cause of the problem. I ordered (micro) it from growshop for soft water use, but when I looked yesterday, I realized that the product is for hard water. I didn't look at it because I thought they sent it right, now I replaced it with 1/2 ratio fertilizer mains water (I ventilated with an air pump for 12 hours). It looks like the problem will probably be fixed.
 
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Treesomewanted77

7
3
Thank you my friend for your explanatory comment. I'm doing almost everything right, but I noticed something yesterday and I'm pretty sure it's the cause of the problem. I ordered (micro) it from growshop for soft water use, but when I looked yesterday, I realized that the product is for hard water. I didn't look at it because I thought they sent it right, now I replaced it with 1/2 ratio fertilizer mains water (I ventilated with an air pump for 12 hours). It looks like the problem will probably be fixed.
You are seeing what looks like a deficiency but it’s lockout from over feeding. Also don’t use voodoo juice in hydro I believe it’s organic and you don’t want anything organic in hydro. Also all you need is a good balanced base nutrient to get great results all that other stuff is pretty much just snake oils.
Do a water change and cut your ppm in half until you see the ppm slowly falling. The only difference between soft water nutrients and hard water nutrients is they remove some of the calcium on the hard water stuff.

If you can back off the light intensity on that plant as sick plants don’t like a lot of light until they recover.
 
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Wanwan

12
3
my dear friend. now i am facing a different problem, the ppm is decreasing slowly but after 2 hours of changing the water there was a slight clouding. and my ph pen is broken. I ordered a new nutrient solution and ph pen, I can receive my orders in 2-3 days. I wonder if anything bad will happen to the plants until my orders arrive.
@Moshmen @smokedareefer @SweetLeafGrow @NorthernOrganics @Cashmeh thanks 🙏
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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Keep veg ratio until after week 3.

Definitely was a light issue 80,000 is to kuch without co2 and your leaf temps (not air temps) will skyrocket. Typically your leaf temps under will be 1-2f cooler than air temos so so not go over 80f and make sure you have good air flow.

what the temp and humidity?

how much of what exactly are you adding?

PH is extremely important to monitor in hydro.
 
Cashmeh

Cashmeh

2,007
263
my dear friend. now i am facing a different problem, the ppm is decreasing slowly but after 2 hours of changing the water there was a slight clouding. and my ph pen is broken. I ordered a new nutrient solution and ph pen, I can receive my orders in 2-3 days. I wonder if anything bad will happen to the plants until my orders arrive.
@Moshmen @smokedareefer @SweetLeafGrow @NorthernOrganics @Cashmeh thanks 🙏
Turn your light way down, at its lowest setting. Download the lux meter off google play, LUX is the app name. Give your plant minimum light since there are root issues. The more light, the more the roots will be pulling up that bad.
So to troubleshoot the roots you would have to pick a method for sterilization. All methods require high aeration of the water, and stable res temps. In live we cannot add tap water to our system. We must let it sit out and allow the corrosives to evaporate. Now, there are ways to make your tap water work, but you would need to get some H202 or a specific peroxide, im sure someone will chime in soon.
I mean a reveg or start from scratch is always an option. I wont smoke weed where the leafs got all crispy, makes it taste horrible. If it were me, from my experience, start again and count it as a learning experience. Know when to quit. . I mean you can fix it, lower the canopy by hacking all that off, but your still going to have some massive roots. Ive found that hacking it down during flowering stunts bud growth, unless you reveg it. This is why I say start over, because when your doing it right, you will be flipping to flower 2 or 3 weeks from seed. Where your at requires another month or 2, and its prolly gonna be a rough road due to learning curve. If you start over, adjust. . breathe and recoop. . your fine. If your at a must for a fast fix, you will need to lower light intensity until all problems are addressed. Shut the big one off and throw in a smaller one on a 12/12, but the clock is ticking, most likely this will cause lots of foxtailing, meaning very stemmy weed, not really them packed buds. .You have options, just not the knowledge or supplies yet. If your money situation is the reason, and u need something from this, you will have to turn the light down until we fix you, but your end result wont be nothing compared to as if you started from scratch right now.
Im sure we could have quite the fun discussion on your grow room and hydro system. Like id say ditch the humidifier for sure, if anything get a dehumidifier. The lower the RH the more demand from the soil there is, and in hydro, we got what she needs unlike soil. . .we dont wait on microbes to fix nitrogen, its there. . .anywho. . you think on it now
You can drive to any aquarium store for ph test kits, all kinds at all places, if its easy
 
SweetLeafGrow

SweetLeafGrow

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I ordered (micro) it from growshop for soft water use, but when I looked yesterday, I realized that the product is for hard water.
Are you hooked up to a water softener for your water source? Sorry if I missed something about your water source.

I wonder if anything bad will happen to the plants until my orders arrive.
I would hate it if my ph meter went south on me, I depend on it everyday to make sure my ph is where it needs to be. You may have problems from this, just depends on how long it takes to get your new meter.
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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Are you hooked up to a water softener for your water source? Sorry if I missed something about your water source.


I would hate it if my ph meter went south on me, I depend on it everyday to make sure my ph is where it needs to be. You may have problems from this, just depends on how long it takes to get your new meter.
Extremely important question here… you cannot use softened water for hydro
 
RootsRuler

RootsRuler

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I don't think there is a pH fluctuation. He always looks stable. I kept it in pH adjusted water for 24 hours the previous week because I thought it was nutrient locking, but the ppm continued to rise. I use the Terraaquatica tripat range. For the first two weeks of growth and flowering, I additionally used AN voodoo juice. Should I use h2o2 to increase nutrients intake?
If PPM is rising that means that your plants are not uptaking ions. Is reservoir level decreasing at a normal rate or is it static? Something is stressing it out. Some have pointed at your lights being to close. I'd start there.
 

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