Hydroponics- Getting Around High H20 Temps

[Trudope]

Hi All,

I'm looking to do another hydrogrow as my previous grow was a success. However, it's summer time now and I'm unable to control my H20 temps-- purchasing a water chiller is not an option at this point. So I was wondering if this strategy would work:

1) It is recommended that H20 temps stay below 70F because higher temps reduce the amount of dissolve O2 in the solution.

2) Root rot is a common problem when H20 temps are high. My understanding is that root rot is caused by low amounts of dissolved O2 in the water. (This hypothesis needs to be supported before the following are true).

3) If the above is true, I can run a hydroponic system with perhaps, 1/2 - 1/4 of the root system in the water. That way, the roots can breath O2 from air instead of water. If root rot is solely caused by lower amounts of O2, then I might be able to grow using this strategy?

Can anyone weigh in here? Am I wrong to supposed that root rot = low amounts of dissolved O2?

Thanks farmers!

 

[PhatNuggz]

In one tent I modified an Igloo Cooler, the other rez is a wrapped large kitty litter pail. I rotate large blue ice paks 3xs a day. Lots of tips in my thread

 

[Pitbull2way]

Room temp is how I keep my water at 70-74. No problem even before I started using defguard.

 

[Deadstill]

Hi All,

I'm looking to do another hydrogrow as my previous grow was a success. However, it's summer time now and I'm unable to control my H20 temps-- purchasing a water chiller is not an option at this point. So I was wondering if this strategy would work:

1) It is recommended that H20 temps stay below 70F because higher temps reduce the amount of dissolve O2 in the solution.

2) Root rot is a common problem when H20 temps are high. My understanding is that root rot is caused by low amounts of dissolved O2 in the water. (This hypothesis needs to be supported before the following are true).

3) If the above is true, I can run a hydroponic system with perhaps, 1/2 - 1/4 of the root system in the water. That way, the roots can breath O2 from air instead of water. If root rot is solely caused by lower amounts of O2, then I might be able to grow using this strategy?

Can anyone weigh in here? Am I wrong to supposed that root rot = low amounts of dissolved O2?

Thanks farmers!

Howdy, and welcome to the farm!

First, root rot is a symptom, or condition, that may be caused by different things. O2 deprivation in higher temps does cause decay, but so can pathogens. Spores can be airborne or transmitted through insects such as fungus gnats. Just a fun piece of information there. Either way, water temps in hydroponics can directly or indirectly cause this symptom.

Second, here's a handy guide to keep your reservoir cool.

Personally, as a former mechanic, I devised a cooling system for my NFT out of an old car radiator and electric fan. So there are many options available to you with a little ingenuity. I remember when I had no life and never left my grow room, I used to keep 20 frozen water bottles on hand at all times and check my res temps every hour.

Hope this helps!

Edit to add:

To answer your question, no, I do not think that technique will work. While the roots above water will be fine, the tips in the water may still develop root rot.

 

[Burned Haze]

Insulate (more the Marier) main supply/supply Rez and have it outside the growroom if you can and the temperature should be much easier /functional battle towards temperature ( even with or without water chiller)



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If your not h2o2 look into root shield wp /plus as anther defense as well, 10 week defense and great preventive plan. Remember once your infected or get a lot of these pest or funguses .... your fucked
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Healthy Roots = Healthy Plants

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• Grows on roots, "shielding" them against root-damaging fungi
• Controls up to 12 weeks
• Two active ingredients (Trichoderma harzianum strain T-22, and Trichoderma virens strain G-41)
• Preventative control of major root diseases including soilborne Phytophthora
• Also controls diseases caused by Rhizoctonia, Pythium, Fusarium, Thielaviopsis, and Cylindrocladium Improved suppression of the aggressive hot-season Pythium

“



My 2cents on that