I’m used to yellowing, but this pattern is weird. Opinions?

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thcoso

thcoso

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I’m growing 8 plants, 6 strains. I flew to Jamaica and got 3 new strains. One of them, Strawberry, has started showing weird yellowing pattern. If only 1 plant, I’d pass it off as nothing, but since 2 plants of the same strain are affected, I thought I’d let other eyes take a look. These girls are over 4 weeks old and were started in solo cups with happy frog for about a week under a T5, then transplanted into 1 gal of 3/4 happy frog and 1/4 ocean Forrest for about 14 days of 24:0 light SP150, then transplanted to 3 gal of 1/2 HF and 1/2 ocean Forrest with a splash of Blood meal, worm castings and kelp meal where they have been under a TS-3000 at 55% power on a 20:4 light schedule ever since. The other 5 strains show no stress.
 
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thcoso

thcoso

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No, I don’t. My watering habits are proper. Last watering was Sunday morning, and it was a deep watering with full tray run-off. I did my 1st grow in 97, so I’m not new at this. I’ve seen spotting like this before but always a one-off that didn’t affect other plants and didn’t require any corrections. Sometimes leaves just don’t develop well. I don’t think it’s light burn, but if it is, I need to work it out. I have 12 more of this strain in another tent doing a SOG grow. If this is gonna be a strain specific yellowing, I need to work it out on these 2 so I don’t have 12 stressed all at once. Im leaning towards it being a coincidence, but with a 12 other plants on the line, I’m being cautious.
 
thcoso

thcoso

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Your other option is Potassium, but I've never seen it quite like this.
Liquify a banana peel with a gallon of water and feed it.
I have organics, but the soil is hot. They were just transplanted into ocean Forrest with some organics I added. If anything, the soil is hot. But, noe of the other 6 ladies under this light are all perfect. So, I have 20 plants in process, 14 of them are this Jamaican strawberry.
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ComfortablyNumb

ComfortablyNumb

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FFOF... Ok. Any amendments?
With FF soils you need this: www.realgrowers.com
Add the recharge. It will free up the nutes in the soil and that will go away.
We had the same thing but it was one tiny spot. As soon as the MBE's caught up, it was no more. Get rid of the affected leaves.
FF soils are not hot (excessive nutes). The formulas have changed. You need to supplement them with MBE's (Microbes, Bacteria, Enzymes) or your plants will eventually run out of food and starve.
 
thcoso

thcoso

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I do like your banana peel idea. That is a trick not yet used by me, but I have a 5 lb bag of potash that should cover that w/o the smell of rotting peels. I work hard to have and maintain 0 bugs in any of the tents. It looked like bleach splashed on a piece of green cloth. Strange pattern. Outside of the tents I have a couple dozen broccoli, basil and rosemary plants in the basement that I will definitely use the banana peels. If they grow fruit flies there, I’m good with that.
 
ComfortablyNumb

ComfortablyNumb

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I do like your banana peel idea. That is a trick not yet used by me, but I have a 5 lb bag of potash that should cover that w/o the smell of rotting peels. I work hard to have and maintain 0 bugs in any of the tents. It looked like bleach splashed on a piece of green cloth. Strange pattern. Outside of the tents I have a couple dozen broccoli, basil and rosemary plants in the basement that I will definitely use the banana peels. If they grow fruit flies there, I’m good with that.
Free food for your venus fly traps.
 
thcoso

thcoso

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Only amended with some blood meal, worm castings, kelp meal and maybe a tablespoon of roots organic uprising grow, but I think I didn’t add it to a few of the transplants. I transplanted 19 of the 20 ladies over a 7 day period and I lost track of which received the roots organic and which didn’t. I’m very confident this is a weird Coincidence that just happened to affect 2 plants in the same strain because I have 14 plants from this strain growing at once. The K thing you mentioned I’m gonna research; because, I’m that type of board nerd. I was leaning toward a pH issue. At this time, I realized one of my pH meters was reading high. I think I may have prepped 5 maybe 10 gallons of water that was close to 4.0 pH. My wife just happened to use her pH meter before she used some on her sunflowers. She grows black sunflowers-they are weird. But her meter was showing 4.2 pH. Either way, if the problem grows worse and I really have to focus and work it out-and I will work it out. I haven’t lost a plant due to nutrition or light issues in too many years to remember. I loose girls due to dumb luck, technology failures and stupid mistakes like not setting a watering timer correctly or going to Jamaica for a week and not securing the timer well so it falls out if he strip plunging the grow into 7 days of nonstop darkness. Yea, that happened. But nutrients are easy, predictable and well cataloged online. Since I can’t find any specific cause that matches. Y conditions, I’m still leaning towards coincidence.
 
ComfortablyNumb

ComfortablyNumb

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Nah, I don't see a co-ink-a-dink here.
I think the 2 you missed the amendments on are the ones that have issues. (Only 1 so far)
FF needs the MBE's now or you get issues. We used to use FFOF, but we had to switch. Roots Organic Lush all the way now.
Adding the recharge will add in the MBE's you are missing and kill the issue before it spreads.
 
dbrzz

dbrzz

157
43
FFOF... Ok. Any amendments?
With FF soils you need this: www.realgrowers.com
Add the recharge. It will free up the nutes in the soil and that will go away.
We had the same thing but it was one tiny spot. As soon as the MBE's caught up, it was no more. Get rid of the affected leaves.
FF soils are not hot (excessive nutes). The formulas have changed. You need to supplement them with MBE's (Microbes, Bacteria, Enzymes) or your plants will eventually run out of food and starve.
Try Dynomyco, cannabis specific inoculant for your grow medium.
 
Dirtbag

Dirtbag

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Those spots are very localized and the tissue around them appears to be normal and healthy. Nutrient issues will not present like that, and it doesn't really look like a blight or yellow leaf spot, doesn't really look like insect damage although I would still check to rule that out.. to me it looks like something, water or nutrient solution spilled on the leaves and then the droplets magnified the light enough to cause burns.

Has anything otherwise besides the strain changed in your grow room recently?
 
thcoso

thcoso

236
43
Those spots are very localized and the tissue around them appears to be normal and healthy. Nutrient issues will not present like that, and it doesn't really look like a blight or yellow leaf spot, doesn't really look like insect damage although I would still check to rule that out.. to me it looks like something, water or nutrient solution spilled on the leaves and then the droplets magnified the light enough to cause burns.

Has anything otherwise besides the strain changed in your grow room recently?
You lay out a good case. You have the best argument thus far. No, my 2 main tents are both well maintained. I have almost total control of my RH and temp and my tents are 100% free of pests insects. I've learned the hard way with bugs to the point I had to dissemble, clean and / or replace the soil in flowering plants which, as you can imagine, was a nightmare and a huge stress on the ladies affected at the time. My water habits are the proper habits one acquires after many years of slowly learning that it's good to wait till the soil is dry--even if the plants wilts a little, that's ok and the lady will be better off in the end. I generally water 2 times every 7-8 days during veg and as often as each plant needs while in flower for my personal, top shelf strains. I have 12 of these Jamaican strawberry ladies 2-3 weeks behind the 2 in this post in a SOG grow that I'm hoping to avoid this yellowing issue; because, those ladies are being fast tracked to stone--no time to correct issues with only 4-6 weeks of seedling/veg time before flipping. These 2 in this post are pare of a long-grow. Seeds dropped 6/19 and will be flipping on 10/8. If not, those ladies wont fill the 5x5x7 they are in.

And you are correct, the yellowing is very localized and very bright--too bright. I'd not think twice about it if it affected 2 different strains or if it only affected 1 plant, but since it's the same strain, and by chance the strain I chose for a 12 girl SOG, I'm open and ready to consider all opinions. Thank You
 
thcoso

thcoso

236
43
FF soils are not 'Living' anymore.
You got that right, especially with Ocean Forrest, but when you have a bag of HF, OF, CocoLoco and Strawberry Fields along with a decent collection of organics that provide NPK separately: blood meal or liquid fish (N) Seabird Shit (P) and Potash (K) along with some epsom salt, Ca 9% additive, Roots organic Uprising Grow and Bloom and Grandma's Molasses, it's easy to bring the soil to life. I try to prep my soil 10-14 days in advance, but I had 19 transplants to perform, I didnt prep enough soil and had to transplant into soil I was making a couple gallons at a time. The HF to OF to organics ratio varied over the 19 transplants.
 
thcoso

thcoso

236
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Try Dynomyco, cannabis specific inoculant for your grow medium.

It's about 1/2 HF 1/2 OF with a splash of Strawberry Fields (maybe 2 tablespoons per gallon of medium).
Per 5 galloons of soil I add: 2-4 tablespoons of blood meal 14-0-0
2-4 cups of worm castings .52 .1 .05
1-2 tablespoons of Roots Organic Grow 6-4-1
1-2 tablespoons of Epsom Salt
1 teaspoon of Seabird Shit 0-11-0 (I think, I'm doing this from memory)
1/2-1 cup of Kelp Meal 4-2-0.5
1/2-1 cup of peat moss
1-2 cups perlite
Sometimes I may add washed coco from older grows for extra volume,
Add pH 5.8 water with 2 tablespoons of Molasses per gallon of Cl free water ppm between 32-38.

When I transplant for flower, I use a 2/3 Strawberry Fields, 1/3 CocoLoco with a heavy application of Roots Organic Uprising Bloom 4-6 tablespoons per gallon of soil. Then I try to not add anything but Mg and Ca as organics. If needed, I will use liquid fertilizers for small corrections up do days 36-42 of flower. Then, it's "flush" time. Which means, RO water at 6.2 ph till harvest. If I have to do a heavy flush, I will, but usually not needed.

I never run autoflowers. I'm a control freak.
 
thcoso

thcoso

236
43
Nah, I don't see a co-ink-a-dink here.
I think the 2 you missed the amendments on are the ones that have issues. (Only 1 so far)
FF needs the MBE's now or you get issues. We used to use FFOF, but we had to switch. Roots Organic Lush all the way now.
Adding the recharge will add in the MBE's you are missing and kill the issue before it spreads.
You make a strong case. The only problem is, I've never seen such a weird pattern in combination with such a bright color of yellow happen to two plants at the same time, much less the same strain. I have 12 more of this strain 2-3 weeks behind in a SOG grow with only a 4-6 week 24 seedling/veg cycle receiving 24 hours of light before flipping to flower. Not a lot of time to correct any issues cause those 12 ladies are not in a temp/RH controlled environment. I got to totally harvest all 12 before mid November--temps become too cold for that space.
 
ComfortablyNumb

ComfortablyNumb

5,770
313
You make a strong case. The only problem is, I've never seen such a weird pattern in combination with such a bright color of yellow happen to two plants at the same time, much less the same strain. I have 12 more of this strain 2-3 weeks behind in a SOG grow with only a 4-6 week 24 seedling/veg cycle receiving 24 hours of light before flipping to flower. Not a lot of time to correct any issues cause those 12 ladies are not in a temp/RH controlled environment. I got to totally harvest all 12 before mid November--temps become too cold for that space.
Like I said, we had a couple of spots just like that in our grow and we know they were not sprayed with anything. Because of the hard edges, I think it's external to the plant as anything taken up at the roots should present along the capillary lines, and this doesn't.
 

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