Inkbird helps to grow easier!

T

TwistedPistil

15
3
Well hot damn, that's pretty cool stuff. I got a few questions

What is the dead band on these controllers? How many amps can you plug into them? Do the sensors need hoods from lighting? Can they be calibrated?

Super awesome feature on the humidity and temp. Add day night. Change light to green, or just don't put a light on it? Idk why everyone wants lights on all their shit, I don't get it. If you can't tell if it's night or day, you got problems.

What homie said about killing the humidity relay a certain amount of time before lights out would be absolutely awesome. Straight up powdery mildew prevention for hobbyist growers all across the world. I used to start a space heater 5 or 10 minutes before lights out just to prevent the humidity spike. I'd rather 5 minutes of 86 degrees and 65% RH than 10 minutes or so with higher humidity than temperature. This is a giant problem for a lot of new growers even if they buy 600 environment controllers. I certainly made that mistake when I was young. Just checking the minimum maximums and assuming I'm good, but the spike after lights out was killing me, but "on paper" aka the min/max for day/night it looked good. I always tell new growers to be completely OCD about the first half hour or hour of lights out, or however long it takes for their Temps to settle down. Fuck. Make something to help those poor poor humans who are all about to make the same mistake so many of us have already. Lol.

You guys make cool products. Sorry for the rant. I got a bunch of baller controller ideas if you want someone's take from the tent to the greenhouse, just message me. Advertise the cool function of your environment controllers, the dual relays, being able to run cool/heat and Humidifier/dehumidifier on one respective controller. That function, you should be blasting all over as the main selling point. "Yo, dumbass stoner kids. People. Just shut the fuck up and listen already. You can heat and cool with this controller ... you can run a humidifier and dehumidifier with this other controller." People like flashy shit. Tell them it's got a green light and it's over. Kill the game
 

INKBIRD

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Well hot damn, that's pretty cool stuff. I got a few questions

What is the dead band on these controllers? How many amps can you plug into them? Do the sensors need hoods from lighting? Can they be calibrated?

Super awesome feature on the humidity and temp. Add day night. Change light to green, or just don't put a light on it? Idk why everyone wants lights on all their shit, I don't get it. If you can't tell if it's night or day, you got problems.

What homie said about killing the humidity relay a certain amount of time before lights out would be absolutely awesome. Straight up powdery mildew prevention for hobbyist growers all across the world. I used to start a space heater 5 or 10 minutes before lights out just to prevent the humidity spike. I'd rather 5 minutes of 86 degrees and 65% RH than 10 minutes or so with higher humidity than temperature. This is a giant problem for a lot of new growers even if they buy 600 environment controllers. I certainly made that mistake when I was young. Just checking the minimum maximums and assuming I'm good, but the spike after lights out was killing me, but "on paper" aka the min/max for day/night it looked good. I always tell new growers to be completely OCD about the first half hour or hour of lights out, or however long it takes for their Temps to settle down. Fuck. Make something to help those poor poor humans who are all about to make the same mistake so many of us have already. Lol.

You guys make cool products. Sorry for the rant. I got a bunch of baller controller ideas if you want someone's take from the tent to the greenhouse, just message me. Advertise the cool function of your environment controllers, the dual relays, being able to run cool/heat and Humidifier/dehumidifier on one respective controller. That function, you should be blasting all over as the main selling point. "Yo, dumbass stoner kids. People. Just shut the fuck up and listen already. You can heat and cool with this controller ... you can run a humidifier and dehumidifier with this other controller." People like flashy shit. Tell them it's got a green light and it's over. Kill the game
Sorry for the delay.
I just saw this reply.
For the questions,
1. What is the dead band on these controllers?
They are only compatible with the heater/cooler, humidifier/dehumidifier in the range of the controllers.
And they cannot work with devices that have built-in control.
2. How many amps can you plug into them?
For ITC-308, IHC-200, and ITC-306 series, the total power of both outlets cannot exceed 1200W (or 1100W).
For the ITC-608 model, both outlets cannot exceed 1800W.
3. Do the sensors need hoods from lighting?
No.
4. Can they be calibrated?
Yes, you can calibrate it on the controllers.

Thanks for the support and appreciate the ideas, we will try to improve something and make them really awesome!
 

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INKBIRD

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Mr.GreenthumbOG

Mr.GreenthumbOG

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Set up the IPT-2CH today, first day of spring, and started up my veggies for the season. Device was easy to setup, and Connect to the app. Thanks for another great product @inkbird
 
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INKBIRD

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Set up the IPT-2CH today, first day of spring, and started up my veggies for the season. Device was easy to setup, and Connect to the app. Thanks for another great product @inkbird
Thank you, no happier than seeing the sharing here. ๐Ÿ‘Š
 

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I

IamN2pot

353
93
Currently use a 308 wifi unit and it keeps track in decimal degrees but can only be set with whole numbers.
Would be nice to set in decimals also.
I have the InkBird ITC-308 and I do NOT use it because the setting in F* can only be set in whole numbers. So, Ms. Sally, PLEASE listen, and just by listening you will be ahead of your competitor that I am forced to use now. Why? Because I CAN set the target temperature, SV in .1* Fahrenheit increments. But they have no interest in what their users suggest for improvements. The .1* F increments come into play with "dead bands", also mentioned in an earlier post. I will explain the importance of this later.
By being on this board, you are showing your interest in your customers, the customers that in my opinion and correct me if I'm wrong, are the largest share of InkBird's business. I know, there are reptile breeders that use your controllers and others use in home beer brewing, but I'm guessing the largest part of your business comes from gardeners, marijuana farmers like us, at least in the USA. Why does that even matter? As was pointed out in one of the first post in this thread, the RED indicator lights and LED panels. How many controllers, sold as equipment for indoor pot gardens like us, currently have green lights? You may be the first. CONGRADULATIONS!!! and THANK YOU!!!

OK, my ideal solution for an Uber Indoor (tent) Temperature Controller Base Unit (UITC-BU): It needs to have a 'negative' dead band. In other words, there needs to ALWAYS be an input to the controller working. In winter with a 0 dead band and without a .1*F setting on the ITC-308, during the night cycle of my tent I wind up with ONLY the heater cycling on and off and the exhaust fan will not cycle on all night. The air inside the tent will be at the set temperature, but will be stagnate, CO2 depleted and at or near 100% humidity. Completely unacceptable conditions created in a grow tent by the temperature controller. So how to correct that? I stumbled upon by accident,.........

EXAMPLE: in my current setup with the competitor's temperature controller, I set the SV to 73.1*F. There is no equal temperature to 73.1*F in the Celsius scale (or 1/2 of the other .1* in F), so the temperature controller will toggle from the heat outlet on at 73.0* and heat up to 73.2*F. That switches the controller to the cooling/exhaust fan outlet and cools the tent back down to 73.0* and on it goes.... It works perfectly for holding a constant temp of 73*F while also exhausting the amount of air needed to keep the plants happy. But a problem that another member mentioned in this thread comes into play, being able to adjust the SV setting of the controller for separate day AND night settings. I have searched the internet, but can't find a temperature controller with a timer added to allow a daytime setting, like 73.1* and a nighttime setting like 65.1* and the 'timer' could be as simple as a photocell switch to toggle between day and night settings. This would be an InkBird UITC Base Unit controller.
OK, now the heat and cooling/exhaust is going fine with day and night setting with a negative dead band. To a base UITC unit, one could add a Humidity Controller., or run it as a stand-alone? Some of us will need dehumidifiers and others humidifiers, depending on our local weather conditions. Most will need a controller to add humidity during the day cycle and dehumidify during the night cycle. And again, day/night can be controlled by a simple photocell switch in the controller.
OK, now you have temperature, cooling/exhaust, raising and lowering humidity, all with DAY and NIGHT settings.
Can you add a Watering Controller, for hydro growers?
And for those most avid and hard-core maximum growers, design a CO2 Controller to add onto the base UITC-BU? (get advice from a hydro/CO2 grower for hydro and CO2 specifics, as I have little or no experience with those)

Thanks for your time and taking the time to get feedback from, well, we feel like our "hobby" make us your #1 customers!

(if all that was about as clear as muddy water, please PM me with questions)

Can't wait to try out the new UITC-BU .......when you make one. โ˜ฎ๏ธ ๐Ÿ‘ ๐Ÿ’ก ๐Ÿ™ƒ ...and please hurry, it's nearing winter again here in the USA. ๐Ÿ˜‰
 
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