Is she going to die?

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iGemini365

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Yes it’s just pulling cool air from the vent port on the bottom of the tent from the lung room. Okay I’ll set it a few degrees higher. I’m gonna take a picture of the tips of the leaves for your opinion. They’re starting to get a tan/yellow color on the very end of the tip
 
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RootsRuler

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I have a 3x3x5 tent with an ac infinity cloudline t4. I currently have it set on ON for 2 mins and OFF for 4 mins. I just changed it to OFF for 3.
Awesome! The fan size is properly suited to your tent.

I have a 5 x 5 with an ACI T6 w Controller 67. I set my min/max range on both temp and humidity and set the min/max on the fan at 2 min/10 max. I set it to auto and it keeps the environment inside the tent within those parameters. I like keeping a minimum of air moving through the tent so 2 is where I want it to be at its lowest setting. Like a perpetual soft breeze! 😛

YCsW8zM
 
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iGemini365

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Nice! I had it setup that way at first but I noticed the temps and all of the other averages weren’t as stable. I might have to go with a similar setup like yours and just mess with it until I can find the optimal settings haha. I read up that air needed to be exchanged pretty frequently to prevent mold etc and also figured having it set to constantly run on/off would promote more airflow as well. First grow so just trying to figure things out as I go! Did you see the pics I posted above of the tips?
 
RootsRuler

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Basic things to master are proper watering techniques and proper nutrient application. Your pictures look like you have that under control. What soil and nutrient are you giving your plant? What are you PHing your solution to if you are giving it liquid nutrients?

I wouldn't be too concerned about your plant yet. It may have stressed slightly but it looks like it's recovering quickly. My guess is a day and it'll be well on it's way. Watch for how fast the soil dries. It'll tell you how robust the plant is feeding. Just keep an eye on it but nothing to worry about. The plant looks healthy.

Like PHing solution, don't chase a particular number so much as a range that you want your plants to be in at that particular stage of their growth. Just like in nature, temperature and humidity fluctuate throughout the day so it's ok if it wavers back and forth as long as they're comfortable in that sweet spot range. That's what your automated fan/controller setup is doing for you. If you're 2/4 fan time setup is working then, by all means, use it. I just do it that way and it works for me.

Try and keep your temperature day/night swing no more than 10*. 10% - 15% swing in humidity.

The chart I posted previous is a good guide to keep your plants in the optimal zone where they can maximize photosythesis. I guess the easiest way to think of it is your optimizing two different environments for your plant. Environmental which is the chart I posted and your root zone where pH, temperature, humidity, nutrition, etc. are the other factors that you want to optimize to give the genetics your plant has to thrive in.

Light exposure is the last part of your environmental to get right. Do you have a means to measure the light energy your plant is receiving?
 
RootsRuler

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The squiggly lines are when I opened the tent. I try not to open the tent other than to feed or inspect but I inspect when I feed.

U4bJNPy


Going into week 2 of flower

03282023
 
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iGemini365

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Basic things to master are proper watering techniques and proper nutrient application. Your pictures look like you have that under control. What soil and nutrient are you giving your plant? What are you PHing your solution to if you are giving it liquid nutrients?

I wouldn't be too concerned about your plant yet. It may have stressed slightly but it looks like it's recovering quickly. My guess is a day and it'll be well on it's way. Watch for how fast the soil dries. It'll tell you how robust the plant is feeding. Just keep an eye on it but nothing to worry about. The plant looks healthy.

Like PHing solution, don't chase a particular number so much as a range that you want your plants to be in at that particular stage of their growth. Just like in nature, temperature and humidity fluctuate throughout the day so it's ok if it wavers back and forth as long as they're comfortable in that sweet spot range. That's what your automated fan/controller setup is doing for you. If you're 2/4 fan time setup is working then, by all means, use it. I just do it that way and it works for me.

Try and keep your temperature day/night swing no more than 10*. 10% - 15% swing in humidity.

The chart I posted previous is a good guide to keep your plants in the optimal zone where they can maximize photosythesis. I guess the easiest way to think of it is your optimizing two different environments for your plant. Environmental which is the chart I posted and your root zone where pH, temperature, humidity, nutrition, etc. are the other factors that you want to optimize to give the genetics your plant has to thrive in.

Light exposure is the last part of your environmental to get right. Do you have a means to measure the light energy your plant is receiving?
Thank you so much for all of your advice!! It’s much appreciated. I’m using ffof and ph of water is between 5.8-6.5. No nutrients yet as I’ve been told to hold off until cotyledons turn yellow. Which they haven’t yet. I definitely try to keep temp lower during lights off. For the most part it averages at about 65-68 degrees Fahrenheit! The vpd I did worry about a lot initially but I decided to master the basics first and then try to dial in vpd later. Although i will say vpd always ranges between 0.8-1.06! Unfortunately I don’t have a light meter yet. I need to get one. I also don’t have a ppm meter either to measure run off. Which I also need to get! I will say since I transplanted the plant has straightened up exponentially and isn’t leaning like it was previously. I know that’s got to be a good sign! Checked the soil this morning and there was barely anything on my finger when I pulled it out but my finger was kind of moist(I know i don’t need the soil bone dry). Probably going to water today after lights off cycle ends later on! We will see though!
 
RootsRuler

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Thank you so much for all of your advice!! It’s much appreciated. I’m using ffof and ph of water is between 5.8-6.5. No nutrients yet as I’ve been told to hold off until cotyledons turn yellow. Which they haven’t yet. I definitely try to keep temp lower during lights off. For the most part it averages at about 65-68 degrees Fahrenheit! The vpd I did worry about a lot initially but I decided to master the basics first and then try to dial in vpd later. Although i will say vpd always ranges between 0.8-1.06! Unfortunately I don’t have a light meter yet. I need to get one. I also don’t have a ppm meter either to measure run off. Which I also need to get! I will say since I transplanted the plant has straightened up exponentially and isn’t leaning like it was previously. I know that’s got to be a good sign! Checked the soil this morning and there was barely anything on my finger when I pulled it out but my finger was kind of moist(I know i don’t need the soil bone dry). Probably going to water today after lights off cycle ends later on! We will see though!
Not yet. Let her dry back an extra day. If you're using your finger as a monitor it should feel slightly damp and your finger should come out clean. If this is the case then go ahead and water. These plants don't like the soil very wet as constantly wet soil tends to drown the roots or promote root rot. Dry back periods also promote root development as the drier soil pushes the plant to look for new water sources to draw from. I guess the best way to describe it is to measure the dampness and when you think it's dry enough wait an extra day or wait for the leaves to start wilting. I don't like to wait that long as I feel wilting leaves stresses the plant and stunts growth but that's just personal preference rather than scientific fact.

The fact that the plant has straightened up tells me it's already recovered and is now transitioning from stressed to normal feeding routine. Keep an eye on how fast it takes for the soil to dry back after your next feeding and the speed in which it dries should tell you what stage your plant is in.

For light meter you can download tent buddy. The app will measure your LUX and convert it to PPFD so that you can get an approximate reading on how much light is hitting the canopy. You can adjust your lighting intensity accordingly. The app also has a VPD and DLI conversion so that you can measure the daily light integral your plants are receiving along with VPD readings to make sure your environment is where you want it for that stage of growth.

From the last picture I saw, your plant is well beyond the cotyledon stage. It's root structure looks firmly on track and is taking up the naturally occurring nutrient ions that are currently in the soil. FFOF is usually good for around 4 -6 weeks of water only nutrition then you're going to start running into deficiency issues due to low ion count in the soil. Do you have a preferred nutrient regime you want to follow? Liquid salt based? Powdered? I prefer liquid because I can steer the plant easier and resolve nutrient issues faster but many like the convenience of not having to mix up a solution for every feed and only have to clean water the plants. @Shaded_One and @CannaGranny consistently grow beautiful plants using this method. Check out what they've done and decide the feed method you want to employ.

How do you know the pH of the water if you don't have a meter to measure it? I've used cheap Ebay and Amazon meters with ok results but they usually don't stay accurate for very long. I like to use a brand called Blue Lab for meters. I have a pH and EC/PPM meter. They're not cheap but they are very accurate and very reliable as long as you maintain them properly. If you decide to go this route I would go with the Growers Toolbox. It has pretty much everything you'll need to keep your meters in good shape. There are other good meters out there also, I just prefer Blue Lab since I've used them throughout much of my time working in the cannabis industry.

I would try and keep my pH a little higher than the usual 6.0 pH. 5.8 - 6.2 is usually reserved for hydroponic grows in synthetic media. Soil tends to like pH around 6.5 - 6.8. The beauty of soil is that even if the pH is a bit off it will compensate as much as the soil allows it to.

More charts to confuse you even further...... 😄

Cob lux distance watttage
DLI
Nutrient needs in stage
Cannabis leaf deficiencies3
 
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I

iGemini365

100
43
Not yet. Let her dry back an extra day. If you're using your finger as a monitor it should feel slightly damp and your finger should come out clean. If this is the case then go ahead and water. These plants don't like the soil very wet as constantly wet soil tends to drown the roots or promote root rot. Dry back periods also promote root development as the drier soil pushes the plant to look for new water sources to draw from. I guess the best way to describe it is to measure the dampness and when you think it's dry enough wait an extra day or wait for the leaves to start wilting. I don't like to wait that long as I feel wilting leaves stresses the plant and stunts growth but that's just personal preference rather than scientific fact.

The fact that the plant has straightened up tells me it's already recovered and is now transitioning from stressed to normal feeding routine. Keep an eye on how fast it takes for the soil to dry back after your next feeding and the speed in which it dries should tell you what stage your plant is in.

For light meter you can download tent buddy. The app will measure your LUX and convert it to PPFD so that you can get an approximate reading on how much light is hitting the canopy. You can adjust your lighting intensity accordingly. The app also has a VPD and DLI conversion so that you can measure the daily light integral your plants are receiving along with VPD readings to make sure your environment is where you want it for that stage of growth.

From the last picture I saw, your plant is well beyond the cotyledon stage. It's root structure looks firmly on track and is taking up the naturally occurring nutrient ions that are currently in the soil. FFOF is usually good for around 4 -6 weeks of water only nutrition then you're going to start running into deficiency issues due to low ion count in the soil. Do you have a preferred nutrient regime you want to follow? Liquid salt based? Powdered? I prefer liquid because I can steer the plant easier and resolve nutrient issues faster but many like the convenience of not having to mix up a solution for every feed and only have to clean water the plants. @Shaded_One and @CannaGranny consistently grow beautiful plants using this method. Check out what they've done and decide the feed method you want to employ.

How do you know the pH of the water if you don't have a meter to measure it? I've used cheap Ebay and Amazon meters with ok results but they usually don't stay accurate for very long. I like to use a brand called Blue Lab for meters. I have a pH and EC/PPM meter. They're not cheap but they are very accurate and very reliable as long as you maintain them properly. If you decide to go this route I would go with the Growers Toolbox. It has pretty much everything you'll need to keep your meters in good shape. There are other good meters out there also, I just prefer Blue Lab since I've used them throughout much of my time working in the cannabis industry.

I would try and keep my pH a little higher than the usual 6.0 pH. 5.8 - 6.2 is usually reserved for hydroponic grows in synthetic media. Soil tends to like pH around 6.5 - 6.8. The beauty of soil is that even if the pH is a bit off it will compensate as much as the soil allows it to.

More charts to confuse you even further...... 😄

View attachment 1345352View attachment 1345353View attachment 1345354View attachment 1345351
Alright I will! I downloaded photone app as tent buddy didn’t populate when I searched it in the App Store. Yeah she seemed to have bounced back pretty fast! Which makes me feel a lot better haha! I’ll be using ff grow, bloom, grow big and ca-mag liquid nutes! Thank you for all of the charts! I’ll definitely put them to good use! Felt the soil today and soil is a little moist still. I’m going to wait a day as you recommended!
 
RootsRuler

RootsRuler

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Just remember that issues take a second to correct so patience is key. Not helicoptering over your grow will help greatly.

Water 2 hours after lights on.
 
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iGemini365

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Just remember that issues take a second to correct so patience is key. Not helicoptering over your grow will help greatly.

Water 2 hours after lights on.
Will do! Yeah I have been helicoptering for sure hahaha. Oh and to answer your question about ph and how I get the reading. I have a cheap Amazon probe that I bought. I couldn’t get it to read a steady #, so then I reverted back to the trusty ole test strips 🤣 those have been more consistent than the $8 probe I bought off of Amazon. I’ll be saving up to get a blue lab pen or even an Apera. I’ve heard those are pretty good quality as well? I should be able to tell the gender of the plant by now right? As long as I have a jewelers loop or magnifying glass to look at the calyx right?
 
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iGemini365

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Ive
Will do! Yeah I have been helicoptering for sure hahaha. Oh and to answer your question about ph and how I get the reading. I have a cheap Amazon probe that I bought. I couldn’t get it to read a steady #, so then I reverted back to the trusty ole test strips 🤣 those have been more consistent than the $8 probe I bought off of Amazon. I’ll be saving up to get a blue lab pen or even an Apera. I’ve heard those are pretty good quality as well? I should be able to tell the gender of the plant by now right? As long as I have a jewelers loop or magnifying glass to look at the calyx right?
I’ve also been referring to the plant as “she” in hopes of speaking its gender into existence hahaha. Even if it is a male though, I’m going to continue with the entire run to use as a trial run since it’s my first one. I’ve feel like some “experience” is better than none. Ya know?
 
RootsRuler

RootsRuler

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Will do! Yeah I have been helicoptering for sure hahaha. Oh and to answer your question about ph and how I get the reading. I have a cheap Amazon probe that I bought. I couldn’t get it to read a steady #, so then I reverted back to the trusty ole test strips 🤣 those have been more consistent than the $8 probe I bought off of Amazon. I’ll be saving up to get a blue lab pen or even an Apera. I’ve heard those are pretty good quality as well? I should be able to tell the gender of the plant by now right? As long as I have a jewelers loop or magnifying glass to look at the calyx right?
LOL! I understand your excitement but it's going to be a while before you find out. Sex doesn't usually appear until the 4th to 6th week of veg.

Yes. Apera makes a nice meter too. This is the kit I was talking about:


Ah! OK. Strips work for now but, yes, a pen would be better. Are you getting an EC/PPM pen also? I think it would be best to have both.

Your jewelers loop is to check on the trichome development to determine when to harvest.

Actually, what you can do is, if it's a male, you can grow him to full maturation and collect the pollen. When you have a female you can cross the genetics by brushing the flowers with the pollen you collected and make a different strain from the seeds that you'll get from pollinating the flowers.
 
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iGemini365

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LOL! I understand your excitement but it's going to be a while before you find out. Sex doesn't usually appear until the 4th to 6th week of veg.

Yes. Apera makes a nice meter too. This is the kit I was talking about:


Ah! OK. Strips work for now but, yes, a pen would be better. Are you getting an EC/PPM pen also? I think it would be best to have both.

Your jewelers loop is to check on the trichome development to determine when to harvest.

Actually, what you can do is, if it's a male, you can grow him to full maturation and collect the pollen. When you have a female you can cross the genetics by brushing the flowers with the pollen you collected and make a different strain from the seeds that you'll get from pollinating the flowers.
Yes I saw that on Amazon! Definitely going to have to look into it for sure. I will get whatever I need to so I’ll add that to the list haha. Ahhhhh I see! I’ll eventually get a jewelers loop if it’s a female! I did notice the leaves curling up on the edges a little bit though. I know it can be due to light stress, heat stress, under watering, pests, wind burn etc. I pointed my fan towards the wall. I raised my lights a few days ago because I started noticing the leaves curling up and then they went back down after a few days and now they’re back up again. I think I’m going to have to raise my lights again. Which idk how it would be the light though? Because I have a groplanner 150w led Wi-Fi light. I was reading up that i need a light that puts out at least 450w but then I’ve also read reviews that the light I have is actually pretty decent for a 3x3ft coverage area even at 150w. So I’m not sure tbh. I’ll spray some neem because I did see a little fungus gnat on top of the soil earlier as well, raise the light, and water tomorrow and see if that fixes the issue. I forgot to mention that earlier too. Sorry haha!
 
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RootsRuler

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You want to shoot for around 30 watts per sq/ft of grow space.

For a 3 x 3, 270 watts would be perfect. 3 x 3 = 9 sq/ft. 9 x 30 = 270.

Another one of the lights you have or a light like one of the quantum boards I have would be perfect. I have 2 in the 5 x 5 and each is 275 watts.

In my case, if I want to hit 30 watt per sq/ft I need a light that puts out 750 watts.

Try not to use any pesticides for now. Buy some yellow sticky traps and put them near the soil and hanging in the tent. That should keep the gnats in check. If it doesn't do the job then I would do a soil drench with the neem to kill off eggs in the soil.
 
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iGemini365

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You want to shoot for around 30 watts per sq/ft of grow space.

For a 3 x 3, 270 watts would be perfect. 3 x 3 = 9 sq/ft. 9 x 30 = 270.

Another one of the lights you have or a light like one of the quantum boards I have would be perfect. I have 2 in the 5 x 5 and each is 275 watts.

In my case, if I want to hit 30 watt per sq/ft I need a light that puts out 750 watts.

Try not to use any pesticides for now. Buy some yellow sticky traps and put them near the soil and hanging in the tent. That should keep the gnats in check. If it doesn't do the job then I would do a soil drench with the neem to kill off eggs in the soil.
Alright yeah I’ll have to get another one of the same lights! I have a yellow sticky trap in the soil and checked it earlier this morning and there was one fungus gnat on it. I’ll check it again after it’s dark cycle. Felt the soil this morning and I’ll definitely need to water today after it’s dark cycle as well! Finger came out pretty much clean. I’ll post some pics of the plant later on today. So so you can see what it looks like! Having a second set of eyes is always a good thing imo!
 
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iGemini365

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I also have my humidifier set to 80 which is the highest it will go unless it’s ran continuously and my avg rh is only at 66.7.. This is with the temp increased to 77-78 degrees Fahrenheit. I turned my clip on fan down to low as well to see if that would help and nothing. So I’m a little lost on what else can be done. I know when temps increase, humidity decreases. However I feel like the rh should be closer to 80%. Would you agree?
 
RootsRuler

RootsRuler

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I also have my humidifier set to 80 which is the highest it will go unless it’s ran continuously and my avg rh is only at 66.7.. This is with the temp increased to 77-78 degrees Fahrenheit. I turned my clip on fan down to low as well to see if that would help and nothing. So I’m a little lost on what else can be done. I know when temps increase, humidity decreases. However I feel like the rh should be closer to 80%. Would you agree?
Yes. If you can't get the humidity up then run it as is. Those are the best conditions you can provide with what you have.
 
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iGemini365

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Yes. If you can't get the humidity up then run it as is. Those are the best conditions you can provide with what you have.
Thank you! I really appreciate all of your info/advice and guidance on everything. I’d have been lost without it! You definitely know your stuff.
 

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