Leaf burn after transplant, but only on one side of my plant? Need help diagnosing.

[cheejin]

Hi everyone, this is my first grow and I'm getting little concerned with my post-transplant. I know a bit of tip burn is expected, but one side is starting to get worse and I'm not exactly sure of the cause. If anyone can help my figure this out it would be greatly appreciated.

Because the roots were not very long or strong when I removed the plant from it's red cup, I had to scoop it on one side into my palm like a spoon to transport it into the new pot. Is it possible this damaged the roots on that side? I was very careful when I did it, but most of the weight of the plant was resting on that side for maybe

Details of my grow:
- Strain: White Widow
- Plant age: 23 days (Seed planted on 24 June, 2019)
- Transplanted on day 20
- 5 of these cfl bulbs run on a 1 to 5 bulb splitter
- Light cycle: 12/12
- Water pH: 6.5
- Soil: Promix Premium Potting Soil
- No extra nutrients added. Soil is fresh.
- No mycorrhizae used.

 

[Jimster]

I grow in Promix but I use the BX version. Does the mix you are using have any nutrients in it? Some versions have it included, but I use the kind without.
The yellowing is probably from something a week or so ago as damage can take a while to show up...was it in the sun at all?
It looks pretty good overall, but see if it spreads to new growth. I think things will resolve themselves in a few days after the roots grow in. I have seen issues when transplanting into a soil with a lot of nutrients in it, but it also resolves itself in a few days.

 

[cheejin]

I grow in Promix but I use the BX version. Does the mix you are using have any nutrients in it? Some versions have it included, but I use the kind without.
The yellowing is probably from something a week or so ago as damage can take a while to show up...was it in the sun at all?
It looks pretty good overall, but see if it spreads to new growth. I think things will resolve themselves in a few days after the roots grow in. I have seen issues when transplanting into a soil with a lot of nutrients in it, but it also resolves itself in a few days.

Hi Jimster, thanks for taking the time out to reply. I use https://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/pro-mix-potting-mix/6000190511599 which has a bit of mycorrhizae in it, and is apparently 0.30% N, 0.30% P205 and 0.10% K20.

I noticed only 2 branches (7 leaves) on one side are affected. The older leaves underneath the affected ones seem fine. The soil I planted the seeds in was much older (4 months old) than the transplanting medium, which I bought one day prior (same product). There's a good chance there is a slight difference in the makeup of the soils due to degradation of the materials/chemical changes over time.

Btw, I had no clue that damage takes that long to show up. That's a pretty major thing to be aware of. Thanks.

 

[Jimster]

It depends on the type of damage
Spider mites took a few weeks to show damage, but the damage kept appearing long after the mites had been vanquished. Nitrogen overdoses can appear in hours, though, if severe.
The Promix you bought is the kind with fertilizer added. I swear by Promix, but I prefer to use a mix that better allows me to control the nutes. I don't know how the drainage is with the potting soil compared to the Promix BX, as there are several versions of it as well, formulated for different water handling abilities. I never had much issues with it, but the potting soil is new to me.

 

[MIMedGrower]

Hi Jimster, thanks for taking the time out to reply. I use https://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/pro-mix-potting-mix/6000190511599 which has a bit of mycorrhizae in it, and is apparently 0.30% N, 0.30% P205 and 0.10% K20.

I noticed only 2 branches (7 leaves) on one side are affected. The older leaves underneath the affected ones seem fine. The soil I planted the seeds in was much older (4 months old) than the transplanting medium, which I bought one day prior (same product). There's a good chance there is a slight difference in the makeup of the soils due to degradation of the materials/chemical changes over time.

Btw, I had no clue that damage takes that long to show up. That's a pretty major thing to be aware of. Thanks.

View attachment 881766

Looks like the soil is not drying evenly. Did you fully saturate the pot to runoff at transplant? Dry on the side that is burning?

Just a guess. Sounds like you were pretty careful with the young roots. Its better to grow them in the cup until they have a full root ball to aboid stressful transplant.

 

[cheejin]

It depends on the type of damage
Spider mites took a few weeks to show damage, but the damage kept appearing long after the mites had been vanquished. Nitrogen overdoses can appear in hours, though, if severe.
The Promix you bought is the kind with fertilizer added. I swear by Promix, but I prefer to use a mix that better allows me to control the nutes. I don't know how the drainage is with the potting soil compared to the Promix BX, as there are several versions of it as well, formulated for different water handling abilities. I never had much issues with it, but the potting soil is new to me.

Looks like the soil is not drying evenly. Did you fully saturate the pot to runoff at transplant? Dry on the side that is burning?

Just a guess. Sounds like you were pretty careful with the young roots. Its better to grow them in the cup until they have a full root ball to aboid stressful transplant.

I think I found out the issue. Since the pot is larger and the plant sits higher in my grow area, it's much closer to the lights. I re-positioned the plant to be directly under the light instead of to the side, and surely enough, slight yellowing of the highest leaf has begun. I've raised the light away from the plants, which will hopefully prevent further burning. The cfls I'm using get hot ass hell, and they are all within an inch distance from each other since they are on the same splitter, amassing a dense heat source. This is a mistake on my end that I should have easily caught.

I'll post here in a few days to confirm whether this was the issue.

 

[xPeacePipex]

Stress can induce such and not reveal damage for a couple weeks, be it over watering or heat stress or just a malnourished plant. When the leaves are effected in the middle of a plant, its generally a magnesium deficiency underway. Secondary and Prime Nutrient deficiencies each have their own development of pattern. Your plants looking pretty hungry in general as well..

 

[Beachwalker]

Hi everyone, this is my first grow and I'm getting little concerned with my post-transplant. I know a bit of tip burn is expected, but one side is starting to get worse and I'm not exactly sure of the cause. If anyone can help my figure this out it would be greatly appreciated.

Because the roots were not very long or strong when I removed the plant from it's red cup, I had to scoop it on one side into my palm like a spoon to transport it into the new pot. Is it possible this damaged the roots on that side? I was very careful when I did it, but most of the weight of the plant was resting on that side for maybe

Details of my grow:
- Strain: White Widow
- Plant age: 23 days (Seed planted on 24 June, 2019)
- Transplanted on day 20
- 5 of these cfl bulbs run on a 1 to 5 bulb splitter
- Light cycle: 12/12
- Water pH: 6.5
- Soil: Promix Premium Potting Soil
- No extra nutrients added. Soil is fresh.
- No mycorrhizae used.


View attachment 881744







View attachment 881745

Why is the light cycle on 12/12?

 

[cheejin]

Why is the light cycle on 12/12?

Because I'm a noob and assumed 12/12 was natural. Going to switch it to 24/0. Thanks for bringing that up.

 

[Dirtbag]

That looks like nutrient deficiency to me, specifically potassium, but it's probably going to start showing other deficiencies soon if you dont feed the poor thing. Considering you're creeping up on a month in straight promix which has very minimal nutes in it,.. I'd put money on it.

Edit, just checked out that promix you used and looked at the numbers you posted, those numbers are high in P and low in K. I've never seen or used that one before, but it looks like its low in K. And Im not sure how it promises to feed for 9 months..

 

[Kushy Tushy]

Because I'm a noob and assumed 12/12 was natural. Going to switch it to 24/0. Thanks for bringing that up.

Or an 18/6 light cycle, which will be easier on your equipment and electric bill. There are threads about 24/0 vs 18/6 that you can read/search on this forum. I have my 6 hours of dark (lights off) during the hottest part of the day/peak electricity rates which helps keep it cooler (the AC and fans still going though) which I think the plants like. Everybody has their own opinion about this, just my two cents I’m a new grower too :D

 

[Beachwalker]

Because I'm a noob and assumed 12/12 was natural. Going to switch it to 24/0. Thanks for bringing that up.

You're welcome, but I'm not sure what's going to happen when you switch a plant that's always been under 12/12 back to a vegetative cycle!?

 

[Edinburgh]

First off your light cycle is not set to veg (grow) your plant, it is set to flower your plant! Change your light cycle to 18 on 6 off, it looks like your feeding? Don't! Much to young, that or your light is to close, keep a fan on yor plants at all times while the lights are on.

 

[cheejin]

That looks like nutrient deficiency to me, specifically potassium, but it's probably going to start showing other deficiencies soon if you dont feed the poor thing. Considering you're creeping up on a month in straight promix which has very minimal nutes in it,.. I'd put money on it.

Edit, just checked out that promix you used and looked at the numbers you posted, those numbers are high in P and low in K. I've never seen or used that one before, but it looks like its low in K. And Im not sure how it promises to feed for 9 months..

I did a small feed at 2 weeks of Miricale Grow 24-8-16 but that's it. I'll start feeding more now since the plant has grown. I didn't plan on never feeding it lol.

Or an 18/6 light cycle, which will be easier on your equipment and electric bill. There are threads about 24/0 vs 18/6 that you can read/search on this forum. I have my 6 hours of dark (lights off) during the hottest part of the day/peak electricity rates which helps keep it cooler (the AC and fans still going though) which I think the plants like. Everybody has their own opinion about this, just my two cents I’m a new grower too :D

Cool, I'll probably stick to something like 20/4.

I would like to see a 1 to 5 bulb splitter . Can you show your set up? Couple of days you can trim off those burnt leaves and it will bush out.

This is just a temporary setup for my young plants. I'm planning to get a larger grow tent for when they grow up. The splitter goes for about $15 on Amazon. I have had the 1 to 3 splitter for about 2 years with no issues. Hoping the 1 to 5 holds up.

You're welcome, but I'm not sure what's going to happen when you switch a plant that's always been under 12/12 back to a vegetative cycle!?

Planning to wean it on, maybe an increase of an hour a day.

 

[cheejin]

I grow in Promix but I use the BX version. Does the mix you are using have any nutrients in it? Some versions have it included, but I use the kind without.
The yellowing is probably from something a week or so ago as damage can take a while to show up...was it in the sun at all?
It looks pretty good overall, but see if it spreads to new growth. I think things will resolve themselves in a few days after the roots grow in. I have seen issues when transplanting into a soil with a lot of nutrients in it, but it also resolves itself in a few days.

Looks like the soil is not drying evenly. Did you fully saturate the pot to runoff at transplant? Dry on the side that is burning?

Just a guess. Sounds like you were pretty careful with the young roots. Its better to grow them in the cup until they have a full root ball to aboid stressful transplant.

All right, so I'm fairly certain the issue was the light heat. Because of the setup, one side of the plant was closer to the lights than the other, which would explain just the top corner of one side getting damaged. There's no new affected leaves and the new growth seems to be doing well. There might also be an underlying deficiency which is expected because I haven't been feeding as much as I should.

 

[zigzagtop]

Hi everyone, this is my first grow and I'm getting little concerned with my post-transplant. I know a bit of tip burn is expected, but one side is starting to get worse and I'm not exactly sure of the cause. If anyone can help my figure this out it would be greatly appreciated.

Because the roots were not very long or strong when I removed the plant from it's red cup, I had to scoop it on one side into my palm like a spoon to transport it into the new pot. Is it possible this damaged the roots on that side? I was very careful when I did it, but most of the weight of the plant was resting on that side for maybe

Details of my grow:
- Strain: White Widow
- Plant age: 23 days (Seed planted on 24 June, 2019)
- Transplanted on day 20
- 5 of these cfl bulbs run on a 1 to 5 bulb splitter
- Light cycle: 12/12
- Water pH: 6.5
- Soil: Promix Premium Potting Soil
- No extra nutrients added. Soil is fresh.
- No mycorrhizae used.


View attachment 881744
Why are you only giving it 12 hours of light? You're not tricking it into bud yet are you? If I were you, I'd give it 18 hours of light...or bring it outside it's summer time, let it veg for awhile, get some more colas going on. It looks good though...and the burned leaf edges on only one side is the same issue I'm going through...I wouldn't worry about it too much though...give her a good pure water flush...even use a Final Flush solution...after flushing, start the feeding schedule at half strength, then back to normal. It looks a little small to flower in my opinion...12 hours of light per day will force it into flowering, using up all the nutes in the leaves...maybe that's your issue? Up the light 6 hours a day for awhile.

 

[zigzagtop]

You're welcome, but I'm not sure what's going to happen when you switch a plant that's always been under 12/12 back to a vegetative cycle!?

I wouldn't use a 24 hour light schedule ever. Why? Well, especially with touchy clones, they'll become light sensitive...it needs darkness too eh. 18 light & 6 dark is my suggestion...I've had clones flower themselves, then grow a set of balls the freaks, all because of too much light. Clones suck compared to seeded plants anyway. My opinion.