Leaf Problem

[Kepp89]

what kind of water are you using? i added calmag early on before too but using tap water (non filtered) it already had enough "calmag" in it.

so i needed to either put tracier trace amounts in the water or i had to stop using it. i just stopped using it.

 

[Funk junky]

Hit with some Calcium, that's what I found cut the leaves in half through the middle, Calcium def.

Actually when I first saw photo calcium came to mind.
I can’t remember but I’m sure there’s something could be iron that can inhibit uptake of calcium. But I would have re research could be wrong as from the top of my head and that’s pretty baked lol

 

[Edinburgh]

Are you growing red dwarf? I am, since they only brought this strain to f2 1 of my plants has multi colored leaves and some other generic deformities , the other is perfect, I can identify both plants as female and these are autos so when I flower I'm going to have to cut my light cycle .

 

[Funk junky]

P.s. I’d never seen a calcium deficiency till I started using led

 

[Funk junky]

Are you growing red dwarf? I am, since they only brought this strain to f2 1 of my plants has multi colored leaves and some other generic deformities , the other is perfect, I can identify both plants as female and these are autos so when I flower I'm going to have to cut my light cycle .

I’m not keen on autos but when I do use them I flower on 20-4 as photoperiod is non applicable

 

[Edinburgh]

My light cycle is 18 on 6 off, if you can identify your autos as female but they will not flower you have to cut the light cycle to 12/12 to try and force them to flower, I have ran into this before, your autos are female but will not auto flower you have no choice to cut the light, sometimes it works other times it does not, we will see.

 

[Edinburgh]

A cal deficiency usually starts low on the plant and starts to go up, your leaves will yellow, I use a table spoon of DE EARTH mix it in water and give the plant, De Earth are fossilized diomites just loaded with cal mag, cheap and organic, it is allso an organic way to kill pests, wait till the top of your soil drys and sprinkle around your plant, leave for 72 hours and give a very light flush, no more pests.

 

[Funk junky]

My light cycle is 18 on 6 off, if you can identify your autos as female but they will not flower you have to cut the light cycle to 12/12 to try and force them to flower, I have ran into this before, your autos are female but will not auto flower you have no choice to cut the light, sometimes it works other times it does not, we will see.

Yes I have heard of autos that are not full auto before.
I rarely use autos. Although they can be useful here outdoor if you time them to finish late July early August as I’m at 52 northern latitude.
As an alternative to darkened greenhouse

 

[Edinburgh]

Yea in my opinion autoflowers are harder to grow than photoperiod plants, but this is my opion, if something goes wrong you have very little time to fix it, the plants are time oriented and have a limited life span, there tricky, the good ones grow at a nice steady pace then go into a growth spurt, after 30 days they slow considerably by day 40 to 50 you can start bloom nutrients strain dependent, you are making a tradeoff, good weed in 70 to 80 days, downside you get no where near the yield you would with a photoperiod, most autos don't smell to bad but there are exeptions, when they run correctly there great, but most of the time you will run into issues, pic cotton candy autoflower.

 

[SinCity]

Are you growing red dwarf? I am, since they only brought this strain to f2 1 of my plants has multi colored leaves and some other generic deformities , the other is perfect, I can identify both plants as female and these are autos so when I flower I'm going to have to cut my light cycle .

@reddwarf, i didn't even know there was a strain with that name! don;t mind the astronomy geek. :)

 

[Funk junky]

Yea in my opinion autoflowers are harder to grow than photoperiod plants, but this is my opion, if something goes wrong you have very little time to fix it, the plants are time oriented and have a limited life span, there tricky, the good ones grow at a nice steady pace then go into a growth spurt, after 30 days they slow considerably by day 40 to 50 you can start bloom nutrients strain dependent, you are making a tradeoff, good weed in 70 to 80 days, downside you get no where near the yield you would with a photoperiod, most autos don't smell to bad but there are exeptions, when they run correctly there great, but most of the time you will run into issues, pic cotton candy autoflower.

I agree that’s one of the reasons I plant in final pots although if I go again might start in rhizopots and then up without transplants?
Yeah definitely trade off I think in quality.
But I have grown a super auto but never got to pull it due pirates. But thing smelt awesome mangoes and tropical fruit grew to 8-9 feet. I used a peat pellet then transplanted into 50 litre pot and made a closche from a big milk bottle.
120 days think from seed I think I timed it for early August not sure long time ago could have been flower. Either way I adjusted and it was ready when I was aiming for. Bet them boys had good smoke that year. When I noticed been compromised I tried moving it but hard in 50 litres pot. Especially as had about five Frisian dew scattered in different places with only so many hours of light left after work.
It was tokers as they harvested the buds never mind I was getting cheeky that year to check I wasn’t making too much work for myself by being over cautious.
I’d grow these again it was from flash seeds he does what he calls super autos.
This plant took about 4 months and smelled gorgeous, with the long flowering times and sativa dominant plants maybe the trade off won’t be as bad.
But these are definitely an alternative to darkened greenhouses in my damp climate.
I would put regular autos in my garden outside, but doubt I would gorilla grow here again as they stay too close to the ground and attract botryotis. Would have to have spot where I could clear away the other foliage or at least get them a few foot off the ground. But they are another trick and other another angle and this in itself gives people an opportunity to grow if they other options are limited.
Still toying with idea of sticking a couple outside in garden but won’t be the supers as I have missed that window of opportunity. Got my eyes on the love potion auto he has or there is a haze.
This is where they can be of use with tropical sativas giving a different option from crossing indica.
Although probably less desirable as inert doner, but indica genes can only bring flowering time down so much.
I grew outdoor for almost ten years in southern England.
You suffer with quality and taste later in year.
Have heard debates about this subject the consensus the seems to be the cold. Anyway you can get gear that is more like indoor if you darkened light cycles to harvest in height of summer. Greenhouse is good as long as they are ready late September early October.
And out in the woods I find trouble when I get to it’s second week of October or later.
Depending where my spots where (you would have to choose sometimes over how much moisture and how much light).
Now I always try to finish the plant when I was in marshy land I let them go as far as could to the point where I would get to a cut of point of 50% botryatis cause with the strains I had to use it was not worth bringing home twice as much unfinished product.
This particular spot had full sunshine all day and my trade off here was almost as much bud as in my more secluded spots after chopping away any mush. Trick is you have to chop away enough good bud to avoid cantamination, like when you love steak but can’t stand the fat, and cut off good steak to avoid fat.
Botryatis outdoor is not as bad as if indoor.
Then if I was inclined to sell which didn’t happen a lot this would be classed by average joe to lower quality to indoor, cure it for two months and it improves dramatically taste will improve. But not to joes pleasing, but the high is more complex and balanced joe don’t see this it’s still a bit harsh.
Outdoor is superior and greenhouses will give you protection from the elements.
But still joe fucking thinks it’s to leafy no bag appeal.
My thoughts are fuck you joe you would make good worm food.
Only joking we deal with cards we are dealt and people that don’t grow don’t realise the plant ain’t your bitch, your it’s bitch and will dance to its merry tune.
Don’t as what your plant can do for you but what you can do for your plant! Lol

 

[OldManRiver]

@Funk junky try actinovate for your mold problems.

 

[Funk junky]

Haven’t grown outdoor for quite a few years now but started using bud rot stop it was a new product back then. It has bacillus in it which stops botryatis in its tracks, this is also in a product I use indoor with other beneficial bacteria. Thanks for tip think rot stop is discontinued. But same company has another product with bacillus in think I have some in nute cupboard somewhere

 

[Edinburgh]

Autoflowers should allways be put in the pot you intend to grow in, transplantation is a no no, I have grown so called super autoflowers, they take longer to finish but are generally bigger with a better yield, I luv sweet seeds they don't usually don't give to much trouble, right now I'm germanateing big devel xxl, and in 2 weeks I'll do dark devel as I got my replacement seeds, or jack47, have not decided yet, out of 5 plants 1 have only 1 gc plant left 30 days old no flower, my red dwarf was only brought to f2, 1 has genetic deformities and multi colored leaves an unstable auto, the other one is bigger in perfect health but at day 30 no flower, both red dwarfs I can identify both as female so if I cut my light cycle to 12/12 they should flower, from now on I'm not testing other people's seeds but only my seeds witch I know are good.

 

[Funk junky]

Autoflowers should allways be put in the pot you intend to grow in, transplantation is a no no, I have grown so called super autoflowers, they take longer to finish but are generally bigger with a better yield, I luv sweet seeds they don't usually don't give to much trouble, right now I'm germanateing big devel xxl, and in 2 weeks I'll do dark devel as I got my replacement seeds, or jack47, have not decided yet, out of 5 plants 1 have only 1 gc plant left 30 days old no flower, my red dwarf was only brought to f2, 1 has genetic deformities and multi colored leaves an unstable auto, the other one is bigger in perfect health but at day 30 no flower, both red dwarfs I can identify both as female so if I cut my light cycle to 12/12 they should flower, from now on I'm not testing other people's seeds but only my seeds witch I know are good.

Yes I normally always pot into final pots with autos, but think you might be able to with some care use rhizopots potting into bigger rhizopots to avoid transplant shock?
I agree with using your own auto seeds it occurred to me years ago that f2ing regs autos is so much more more cost effective than using auto fems.
Don’t think it’s on my agenda at the moment though and if I do any autos this year it will be a couple of auto fems in backyard to catch summer harvest see how I feel?
What puts me off is if Leo where to somehow get wind of them, they would probably give me warning, but only access to my yard is through my house.
And Law here is they are like vampires don’t let them inside. Once inside they don’t need a warrant to look about they can’t rifle through drawers but can look about. My tents are still set up although only my seedling tent is in use at moment so I feel maybe too much risk we will see

 

[Edinburgh]

The seeds are certainly cheaper but if you grow f2 plants you usually end up with problems, 1 plant is great the other not to well, genetic deformities, multi colored leaves ect, but who cares it's a girl I make her flower if forced to do so.