Leaf tips clawing, yellowing tips and edges

[C.dutchpuxx]

So ive been having this problem with my girls for the past two weeks, one of them has clawing leaf tips, yellowing tips and edges. So I thought at first it was a nitrogen toxicity, even though the leaves arent dark green and ive barely been feeding her. so i flushed her out with clean Phd water at 6.0. Before the flush I checked the soil levels and they were at 7.0, and after the flush they were STILL at 7.0. So my quesion is should i keep flushing until soil levels are at a good level or should i start considering other problems? Because I feel like theres no way its a nitrogen toxicity, ive barely fed her at all and the leaves are not very dark. On the otherhand, my second plant is having some problems but with different symptoms. She has clawing leaf tips and yellowing between leaf veins. Ive also flushed her out with Phd water but the problem doesnt seem to be clearing up, on either plants. So is this really a nitrogen toxicity or is this an issue with Ph or a deficiency? Im growing in organic cocoa coir, 20% perlite, i have them under a 300w led 18” above canopy, grow room is at 70 F and about 30% humidity, was feeding them Ph perfect advanced nutrients, 2.5ml micro, 2.5ml grow, 1ml bloom, 1.5 ml calmag every liter. And i have been watering them with tap water, 550-700ppm and 6.0 ph. If anybody could help me out with this i would greatly appreciate it!

oh and also i transplanted them a few weeks ago, and the cocoa is taking foreverrrrr to dry out, like 4-5 days. And i know im supposed to be watering cocoa every single day, but thats not gonna work if the soil is staying wet for so long, so is there any reason for this or any way to fix this?

 

[C.dutchpuxx]

Btw these are pics of them at night, in the daytime theyre much more perky and not drooping, the only drooping there is in the daytime is the tips or the “clawing”

 

[TerpiestToker420]

Btw these are pics of them at night, in the daytime theyre much more perky and not drooping, the only drooping there is in the daytime is the tips or the “clawing”

Same thing happened to mine adjusted ppm to 1800 like they say cause my plants are two months along in veg and had to use around 55ml per 2.5 gallons which I thought was a little high but thats what it took to get the ppm to 1800 lots of mind bogglenation here and doesnt help im running all different strains

 

[Grownsince95]

Looks like a possible potassium deficiency, could make sense if you have been very light on feed. If its starting low and working up the plant its usually not a toxicity but the plant using reserves from older leaves
After transplant, depending on how much they were disturbed they can drink way less for several days ime.
Also one more thing, excess calcium will block the K so something else to look into...

 

[Grownsince95]

Calmag is an EC hog too. We add it first to our rez but then there's not a lot of EC left for the good stuff lol. I always cut my dose in half a month in and try to keep it as low as I can.

 

[whaleoutput]

I agree it looks like a potassium deficiency starting to show up. I found this really good chart

 

[JWM2]

If the problem starts at the top of the plant it’s an immobile nutrient deficiency. If the problem starts at the bottom it’s a mobile nutrient deficiency. Immobile nutrients are often referred to as micro nutrients and mobile nutrients are sometimes referred to as macro nutrients.

Light and heat over saturation can often be mistaken for deficiencies so be sure to check that off the list before making any drastic changes.

Once you figure out where the issue is coming from you can address it. Many times immobile nutrient deficiency is due to improper VPD and not a lack of nutrient in the growing medium.

Foliar feeding can be a great way of administering micro (immobile nutrients).

Mobile / macro nutrients = Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium (NPK)

Immobile / micro nutrients = Calcium, Magnesium, Iron, Sulphur, Manganese, etc.

 

[C.dutchpuxx]

If the problem starts at the top of the plant it’s an immobile nutrient deficiency. If the problem starts at the bottom it’s a mobile nutrient deficiency. Immobile nutrients are often referred to as micro nutrients and mobile nutrients are sometimes referred to as macro nutrients.

Light and heat over saturation can often be mistaken for deficiencies so be sure to check that off the list before making any drastic changes.

Once you figure out where the issue is coming from you can address it. Many times immobile nutrient deficiency is due to improper VPD and not a lack of nutrient in the growing medium.

Foliar feeding can be a great way of administering micro (immobile nutrients).

Mobile / macro nutrients = Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium (NPK)

Immobile / micro nutrients = Calcium, Magnesium, Iron, Sulphur, Manganese, etc.

Ive already taken light and heat off the tables, my grow room is room temperature and the yellowing is happening in leaves that are almost getting no light, so its def not that

but im starting to think its my Ph down, recently ive been having to use over 100 drops of Gh Ph down just to bring a gallon of my tap water down from 7.6 to 6.0. And my last grow I would NEVER have to use that much, id only have to use 20 drops or so

so like can using a lot of Ph down be toxic to the plants? I just cant see it being a deficiency the leaves have been yellowing and clawing on completely random areas, hasnt been starting from the top, or bottom, its just been happening randomly all over the place.

 

[Grownsince95]

PH down breaks down relatively quickly imo and start to loose its effectiveness, my drain to waste rez will naturally go up over the course of a week from 5.8 to 6.3 ish because my tap water going in is 7 so the water seems to naturally drift back to that over time.
Try cutting your cal mag in half and redo the rez to the same ppm as before the cut, I bet you will make the K more available to the plant. K is not picky about PH really either so keep everything the same except the calmag...just my 2 cents ❤

 

[Grownsince95]

And also can't believe I forgot to ask this but really need to know your runoff EC and EC going in, that usually tells a lot

 

[Beachwalker]

ive been having to use over 100 drops of Gh Ph down just to bring a gallon of my tap water down from 7.6 to 6.0.

so like can using a lot of Ph down be toxic to the plants?

WHAT???

Well there's your problem right there! Guarantee you that's got something to do with why you're showing a potassium lockout; you need to either recalibrate your meter or figure out why that's happening because that's not right

 

[Grownsince95]

Ive already taken light and heat off the tables, my grow room is room temperature and the yellowing is happening in leaves that are almost getting no light, so its def not that

but im starting to think its my Ph down, recently ive been having to use over 100 drops of Gh Ph down just to bring a gallon of my tap water down from 7.6 to 6.0. And my last grow I would NEVER have to use that much, id only have to use 20 drops or so

so like can using a lot of Ph down be toxic to the plants? I just cant see it being a deficiency the leaves have been yellowing and clawing on completely random areas, hasnt been starting from the top, or bottom, its just been happening randomly all over the place.

When you said it's the leaves with "no light" ie: the bottom of the plant = mobile issue. The plant is taking from where it needs it the least. Reduce or eliminate the calmag and redo the rez and give a week, those leaves will not come back but you should stop seeing new yellowing. But seriously you need to find out the runoff EC too

 

[C.dutchpuxx]

When you said it's the leaves with "no light" ie: the bottom of the plant = mobile issue. The plant is taking from where it needs it the least. Reduce or eliminate the calmag and redo the rez and give a week, those leaves will not come back but you should stop seeing new yellowing. But seriously you need to find out the runoff EC too

Ill look into the runoff EC the next time i give them a watering, I never was aware i had to keep track of that i thought it was just about Ph and ppm

 

[C.dutchpuxx]

WHAT???

Well there's your problem right there! Guarantee you that's got something to do with why you're showing a potassium lockout; you need to either recalibrate your meter or figure out why that's happening because that's not right

its definitely not my meter, ive been calibrating it daily ever sense this has been happening, and whenever i use Ph down in my nutrient solution i only have to use like 10 drops to bring a gallon of nut solution down from 6.3 ish to 5.5. But then with my plain tap water i have to use a ton of ph down just to bring it down by one point. So is there any way like my tap water could be reacting with my Ph down or something? Because this is only happening with my tap water, not my nutrient solution or anything else

 

[Beachwalker]

its definitely not my meter, ive been calibrating it daily ever sense this has been happening, and whenever i use Ph down in my nutrient solution i only have to use like 10 drops to bring a gallon of nut solution down from 6.3 ish to 5.5. But then with my plain tap water i have to use a ton of ph down just to bring it down by one point. So is there any way like my tap water could be reacting with my Ph down or something? Because this is only happening with my tap water, not my nutrient solution or anything else

I have gh up and down out there although I don't use it anymore, but to bring 1 gallon of my 8.9 tap water down to 6.5, don't recall exactly but it was somewhere around 10 drops maybe less..

so if you're using over a hundred drops to adjust just one gallon you've got something very wrong my friend ??

Edit: I use citric acid and I bring my 8.9 down to 6.4 with just 5 drops per gallon, so I believe that's what's causing the potassium locked-out!

Let's see if we can get you to talk to @Aqua Man he's the one to talk to about all things aqua, and I think he'd be interested to see this one because I've never heard of anything like this not even close

 

[Grownsince95]

Definitely read this and everything it links to.

How to Manage Run-off EC - Coco For Cannabis

Learn how to manage Elelctrical Conductivity (EC) in your coco grow. Simple instructions how to control EC to maximize growth & keep plants happy & healthy!

www.cocoforcannabis.com

 

[Grownsince95]

Maybe start here...

Understanding Osmosis and EC - Coco For Cannabis - Science

Learn how EC, PPM & TDS affect plants. Understand osmosis (how the plant absorbs water) and why it is critical to measure EC/PPM when you fertigate.

www.cocoforcannabis.com

 

[growsince79]

Looks like a possible potassium deficiency, could make sense if you have been very light on feed. If its starting low and working up the plant its usually not a toxicity but the plant using reserves from older leaves
After transplant, depending on how much they were disturbed they can drink way less for several days ime.
Also one more thing, excess calcium will block the K so something else to look into...

*1

 

[DreamwalkerJ]

If you need to use that much pH down, i would getting a new pH meter. It looks like a straiggt magnesium deficiency but since Mg isnt really absorbed if the pH is below 6, adding a shit ton of pH down because you have a broken meter will lockout magnesium. Potassium deficiency has a little more orange color to it at first but it actually looks burnt. The neon yellow starting at the tip and moving back along the outer edge of the leaf is a Mg deficiency thing. Now, whether you need to give it more or you need a new/calibrated pH meter is the question.

 

[DreamwalkerJ]

I have gh up and down out there although I don't use it anymore, but to bring 1 gallon of my 8.9 tap water down to 6.5, don't recall exactly but it was somewhere around 10 drops maybe less..

so if you're using over a hundred drops to adjust just one gallon you've got something very wrong my friend ??

Edit: I use citric acid and I bring my 8.9 down to 6.4 with just 5 drops per gallon, so I believe that's what's causing the potassium locked-out!

Let's see if we can get you to talk to @Aqua Man he's the one to talk to about all things aqua, and I think he'd be interested to see this one because I've never heard of anything like this not even close

I just helped someone else through this exact thing and the pH meter was the problem. As soon as he got a new pH meter he tested the stuff he mixed and the pH was down to 4.1 but the old pH meter was still saying 6.89. Stick with bluelab. Buy it once or buy it twice.