Led Vs Led Hybrid

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PhatNuggz

PhatNuggz

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IMHO this thread is long overdue. Why?

Most of the CoB lights, be they manufactured or DIY, are strictly single spectrum CoBs; 3500K, 4000K, maybe even some 4500k vs Amare Technologies CoB hybrid which uses Cree CBX 3070 CoBs.

Each Amare CoB is surrounded with a ring of Cree deep blues, deep reds and IRs, said to enhance those specific spectrums during both veg and flower that amp up chlorophyll A & B , sort of like adding a turbo, or super charger to an already high performance motor.

If it matters, by how much?

Looking at the Cree CBX 3070 product page on Amare own website, the extra ring does not seem at all needed. Maybe all that is needed is the IR diodes, So, I do wonder how much MORE will it bring to the harvest to justify its additional complexity and cost. I get why many DIYers call BS. Assuming the new Amare SE 250 arrives in time to use for flowering, we'll get a first hand comparison. I have no axe to grind. Was it Eisenstein who said "Things should be as simple as they need to be, and no simpler'?

My plan is to use the SE 250 without using the extra diodes (the rings total ~ 100w) in one tent and in the SE 220 in another using the CoBs and surrounding diodes, so 220w v 150w. That disparity alone could well make this side-by side moot. I am open to a manufacturer providing their CXB 3070 or Vero CoB only near 250 watts actual

New baby seedlings are vegging under 4 Transcend Lighting LED T5s @ 30w in my DIY bubble Bath, and should be ready to flip in 3-4 weeks.
 
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AvidLerner

AvidLerner

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My DIY's include Royal Blue for Veg and far red for bloom, along with 3500K and 5000k COB's. UV is unnecessary, I believe, as you can stress your plant cheaper ways, like pinching then main stalks. UVB causes suntan/burn, and UVA/C is used to kill bacteria in air. peace
 
PhatNuggz

PhatNuggz

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Thanks for your input. The beauty of DIY is you can do what you want. The SE is off the shelf. I completed a grow under it without burning issues
 
keiksweat

keiksweat

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Cree
IMHO this thread is long overdue. Why?

Most of the CoB lights, be they manufactured or DIY, are strictly single spectrum CoBs; 3500K, 4000K, maybe even some 4500k vs Amare Technologies CoB hybrid which uses Cree CBX 3070 CoBs.

Each Amare CoB is surrounded with a ring of Cree deep blues, deep reds and IRs, said to enhance those specific spectrums during both veg and flower that amp up chlorophyll A & B , sort of like adding a turbo, or super charger to an already high performance motor.

If it matters, by how much?

Looking at the Cree CBX 3070 product page on Amare own website, the extra ring does not seem at all needed. Maybe all that is needed is the IR diodes, So, I do wonder how much MORE will it bring to the harvest to justify its additional complexity and cost. I get why many DIYers call BS. Assuming the new Amare SE 250 arrives in time to use for flowering, we'll get a first hand comparison. I have no axe to grind. Was it Eisenstein who said "Things should be as simple as they need to be, and no simpler'?

My plan is to use the SE 250 without using the extra diodes (the rings total ~ 100w) in one tent and in the SE 220 in another using the CoBs and surrounding diodes, so 220w v 150w. That disparity alone could well make this side-by side moot. I am open to a manufacturer providing their CXB 3070 or Vero CoB only near 250 watts actual

New baby seedlings are vegging under 4 Transcend Lighting LED T5s @ 30w in my DIY bubble Bath, and should be ready to flip in 3-4 weeks.
Cxb,.. . Cbx us a fuckin motor bike dude.
 
AvidLerner

AvidLerner

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The light is working fine. I am uysing my veg light right now, with 12 Toyal Blue Led diodes and they stay on 24/7 while the cxa's go off after 16 hours. Royal Blue seems to put more sugar in the leaves and help nurture vegetative growth. My newest light fixture is a passive mixed 3500k/5000k kelvin fixture at 200w with a HLG-185H-C700a driving two 77v cxa3590, 3500k, BB bin, cri 90 and two 36v cxb3590, 36v, 5000k, BB bin, cri 90 quite nice. I also have 8 Far Red led diodes on that fixture. My active cooling 200w fixture is so quiet I cannot hear it. My passive fixture is even better and can do both veg and bloom with the mixed kelvin frequencies. I am going to do a Royal Blue Led Diode bar using 1"x1" x 1/4" th by 24" aluminum for veg activities. peace
 
keiksweat

keiksweat

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The light is working fine. I am uysing my veg light right now, with 12 Toyal Blue Led diodes and they stay on 24/7 while the cxa's go off after 16 hours. Royal Blue seems to put more sugar in the leaves and help nurture vegetative growth. My newest light fixture is a passive mixed 3500k/5000k kelvin fixture at 200w with a HLG-185H-C700a driving two 77v cxa3590, 3500k, BB bin, cri 90 and two 36v cxb3590, 36v, 5000k, BB bin, cri 90 quite nice. I also have 8 Far Red led diodes on that fixture. My active cooling 200w fixture is so quiet I cannot hear it. My passive fixture is even better and can do both veg and bloom with the mixed kelvin frequencies. I am going to do a Royal Blue Led Diode bar using 1"x1" x 1/4" th by 24" aluminum for veg activities. peace
man,you must have spent some wonga on all that bro.gonna have some serious grow op...cool stuff.love all the LES,tech.im still chucking out dank with me wank mars reflector 144s and a uvb reptile tube.cant wait to get my shit together n build some quality shit like you,RS,sea,and all the other diy doers'.
 
AvidLerner

AvidLerner

296
63
haha. mostly spare parts. I bought the COB's some months ago, and have some drivers from meanwell, as well as some imported ones inexpensive laying around. I found the passive heat sinks for under $10/ea with shipping cdiweb. The passive light was mostly cheap. The led diodes cost $3/each, ouch. The royal blue can be driven anywhere from 1000mA to 1400 mA meaning you can use a meawwell C1050A/B or C1400A/B to drive the royal blue diodes. The far red's use 700 mA and you can use a meanwell C700 to drive these in numbers, at around 3.4 Vf forward volts per diode. So you can add the far red diodes to yout string in series until you get to about 85% capacity for volts, example a C700 goes to 286v. if you are using 36v cob's you can add to the string with a single driver.

I built the third light to have a backup. always prepared. peace
 
keiksweat

keiksweat

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Cool lad,when ya gonna show us them in action.dying to see the grow now..
WP 20160411 20 50 24 Pro
WP 20160411 20 49 28 Pro
WP 20160411 20 02 49 Pro
 
keiksweat

keiksweat

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I know how to spell cob,and I know all about cob,les,technology.I said its cxb3590,not cbx....im joking about a cbx motor bike is all.
 
keiksweat

keiksweat

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That went straight over my head. We call them motorcycles
I checked out that amare site.they look quite cool.bit pricey though.im really liking those tasty led cxb panels.those timberline cobs look ok
 
PhatNuggz

PhatNuggz

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No cuts, seedlings

The lone plant is jumping out of its bucket. The babies were doing quite well until late yesterday, when I noticed the leafs were droopy. Could be one of two things

1. Nutes- changed that out this morning
2. Humidifier- I stopped using it 2 days ago- filled it up and started it 10 minutes ago.

I took before pics and hopefully will have reinvigorated ones soon


And lastly, I still haven't received the new Amare SE 250 to begin the CoB v CoB Hybrid comparison
 
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PhatNuggz

PhatNuggz

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Here are pics of both the plants that will go under the 2 Amares and the lone plant under the SE 220. I will move that one under the hot5 led and have 2 plants under each light fed by my Mini Me F & D

The babies have perked up quite a bit since this morning
 
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PhatNuggz

PhatNuggz

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Heard from Amare. He was in a motorcycle accident, crushed a couple molars, which means he hit the ground hard. That might add to the delay, but the primary reasons are; the company making the chassis missed their ship date, AND, an opening order for EU Distributor

That being the case, I am moving forward. I will move the plant under the SE 220 to the hot5 light and take the best 2 plants and use my dual Mini-Me F & D as pictured above under the SE 220 for now.
 
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