Light burn or deficiency progressing ?

[fuzybuds]

How does one determine if it's to hot of mix or not?

 

[Week4Bytch]

How does one determine if it's to hot of mix or not?

For one, tip burn. your just adding water and getting tip burn.... soil is hot. That easy.

 

[RootsRuler]

How does one determine if it's to hot of mix or not?

It really depends on the cultivar. Some like a lot of nutes. Some not so much.

 

[fuzybuds]

For one, tip burn. your just adding water and getting tip burn.... soil is hot. That easy.

Makes total sense.

 

[Zen_Seeker]

Airpots can 100% become root bound, just because the air kills off a few cm of root tips does not mean the roots cant coil and bind in there.

Okay, thanks.

Also just because plants will shoot large greenish looking roots out at the base does not mean you can bury your stem!!!

Read that transplanting clones deep or almost all the way through the Jiffy puck, and then transplanting from pot to pot putting the stem a bit deeper was okay. More bro science I guess.

Stem rot doesn't smell bad or look like fungi or mold, it is just a squishy spot on the stem starting with mild discoloration yellowing and small squish, and building to brownish and very squishy.

The lettuce got that about a month after transplanting, fixed now, but the cannabis plant is okay still.

It will develop at your ORIGINAL soil line, not at the 3in false soil line, and coincidentally the plants looks pretty damm close to your plant there. They droop and yellow for no reason.....

The 3” of soil was removed less than 12h after I added it. Then I flushed the remaining soil. Don’t think it had time to effect the plant yet?

So dig, sunshine mix with worm has no ammending beyond some gypsum and lime...sunshine is a base mix intended for mixing with amendments and compost.

4-4-4 was also mixed in just as a starter. From there I was hoping to find good, cheaper, nutrient suggestions. But yellow stripes started.

If you not feeding her its not a surprise she's all hungry. By food i mean nutrients, are you feeding liquid, doing scratch ins? this is your first Organic run? You were growing differently before?

Compost was the plan and teas/foliar but as of this morning I added 8L+ water with PH 6+ that had a bit of Pro Cal & Foxfarm Grow Big. I’ll get back to organic next time. I also added 8g+ of Dynomyco mycorrhiza spread in 6 holes about 3”+ deep. Gaia Green Sand was scratched in before the flush.

Og gardening is way different than salt gardens. Different learning curve. And this is where we get to discussing pot size for organics! In whatever mix of soil you prefer when running salts or organic liquid nutrients you can keep a plant looking and doing really happy in a tiny vessle, but the second you take away the bottle everything goes hay wire.

I’m beginning to see this.

When your growing in organics soil base does matter because its the loving(living) soil food web that provides your plant with food not the bottle. The more surface area for your microbes to thrive the more nutrients they can celate making them bio available to your plants.

I know this but have not had experience or education in growing cannabis this way organically. I didn’t even consider needing a larger pot for the same size plant just because we need the additional nutrient space. In my 3x3 I find I can really only manage 4 plants at a time and 25L pots is manageable. This plant was a left over I used for clones and then decided to practice and experiment on.

Next run go to a 30g pot, amend the living balls outta it, cook out your super soil or buy a pre amended mix like what BAS offers and blast them with penny saving organic nutes like fish malted barley sprouted seeds and kelp!!! You will be blown away mate!

I think 25L is about 7G so 30G is like 115L? Pretty sure I don’t have room for that. I have to move 3 clones into here that are already getting big fast. My mistakes are going to have them sitting longer until I fix this plant.

Heres what i would do;
Ditch the cheezy meter, those things suck and are not accurate.

I know, have a better PH meter coming by mid February. Picked up a good LUX meter that helped with locking down distance and intensity.

Water based upon the plant turgor pressure and perk or by the weight of the pot.

Uh what??? I check the weight, use my finger and if dry I see how far down with water meter. Try to check PH of soil when I water as soil needs to be really wet to get a reading.

If the top 3 inches are dry your plant is much too dry, i do second knuckle is emergency watering time it shouldn't get to that point.

I always water this way. Unless I flush. I read about letting the pot go really dry for 3+ days but I just can’t do it. I worry about over watering, not under. I also try to do it 500ml to 1L at a time. Getting it around where I think the roots are reaching all around the edge of the pot. As it seeps in I go around the sides repeatedly until it looks saturated or I see run off. Not just running out the sides.

You should probably be watering daily small amounts(possibly twice a day) defiantly not every third day with a large amount.

Usually every other day unless I was light last watering or environment changed enough to evaporate more. At this size it’s about 1.5L a day or 3L every other day, IIRC, With feeding every other watering.

Take that stuff off around the stem and keep the original soil line forever. Make a SMALL mound around the stem to keep water off and dish the rest of the pot. When top dressing you scratch in breaking up the top surface of the dirt.

Not sure what you mean by dish? As I noted above the “mound” doesn’t stay. I just make a small one whenever I check or clean the soil. It’s so light it floats and sinks so I level it out. And yes, when adding anything to the top soil I break it up but not to deep. Not to damage roots. I also poke holes with a sharpy if I need to get something down in there like mycorrhiza.

More frequent waterings with less water in each one. and start feeding that baba stat!!!! Like for real every second watering and scratch in every ten days.

We since I’ve failed at organic and already started liquid nutes again I was thinking about “The Recipe” if I can copy it cheaply. Running out of extra cash and this is for personal wellness & health.

after fully understanding this situation heres my read; This plant has become massively root bound, does that mean theres roots growing out of the pot? No this means that there is such a massive amount of roots and such little soil that the dirt is having trouble up-taking the water. When the roots get so massive like that water has issues penetrating and hydrating, then it causes pockets of hydrophobic soils that reject the water even more!! What you get is plants that look like they are pissed and thirsty, but wont take the water!! Then the tendency is to give them more, causing run off and they look like they are over watered because the water is sitting in there not being taken up.

IDK? I never try to water to run off. The pot sits on a surface that will let it drain but that goes on the tent floor. A flood table/tray is another tool for later. I don’t think the roots are that bad but I can’t say for sure. I know the water meter does hit resistance but I take readings from the middle ring between the stem and edges so I expect roots to be thicker here.

At this point, other than the light feeding I did today, what would you suggest or have me check? I don’t have a meter to check ppm.

I gave he a lot of water today so I was going to give a normal feed Sunday. Either 1.5L or 3L depending on how much water she needs.

Let me know if you need any info.

BTW I’m on 6/2 cycle. From seed to veg.

TIA!

 

[Zen_Seeker]

Hahaha... I can’t type fast enough to answer. I’m trying, sorry for the delay.

 

[Zen_Seeker]

are you using organic dry soil amendments/fertilizer?

Sunshine mix #4, 1/3 worm casting, and a bit of Jobes organic 4-4-4.

 

[Zen_Seeker]

You know whats funny is the OP never came back.. LMFAO Zen seeker, did you ever get the pH down to respectful levels? Where you at with the soi

Ya, I highjacked the thread. But I did give him a link to the LED PDF file with the hight info included.

PH was a solid 6.1to 6.3 in can, soil, and run off in tray. (After run off)

If this is all you have, go with the Jobes 4-4-4 (tablespoon per pot) and Worm castings only (cover the pellets with the worm castings), and then water with (1 tablespoon per gallon of water) of epsom salts once a week. Get that waters pH to 6.5-6.8 Good luck man and sorry for taking so long to read that .

No worries! I was the dumb a$$ that needed help. Thanks for the hand!

Unless I need to act now I’ll wait until Sunday watering. I put in about 2/3 of the recommended amount of FF Grow Big & Pro Cal. PH about 6.3 in mix, don’t recall at soil but about the same or I would have changed it.

I don’t order off the net but I have two stores I can get to easy. If I should grab some things that aren’t going to be $100L I can swing it. (Cal Mag $30 or Pro Cal $15. I cheaper out.)

I was looking at “The Recipe” earlier and started looking at maybe going that way with this. But I’m after simple and good for me & the family. So haven’t read enough to see if that’s the way to go.

At least the PH meter is on its way.

Thanks again

 

[ezenzyme]

SO greensand will do pretty much nothing it need months to release. Fox farms is organic and salt weed can be bomb!! Want no salts? Pretty sure fish is the cheapest N per penny ATM. Thats what i rock, some kelp too.....
I would water more frequently(daily possibly twice daily) and feed every other day adding more weekly provided there is no signs of burn. If your still in veg and can wing it i would totally put her into a 25! Unless they are on RO you do NOT need and additional Ca just Mg(epsom) to facilitate uptake. Also your organic grows do not need any flushing whatsoever

Also theres no reason you cant put a 50 or 60 gal pot in there and have a shared soil base for multiple plants. Theres a few baller threads on here doing that, cloth beds or pots....I think ever the badder than fkkkk deadseamaiden was running no till indoor beds..
So there are plenty of organic foods to choose from, me personally fish kelp for veg, scratch in feather meal kelp neem seed meal and malted barley. Compost teas, and i mean real teas Tim Wilson style, as well as anaerobic fish water with compost and rocks in it; Jadam Microbial solution!!! For Flip i balance my NPK, mixing some sea bird and bat into the high N stuff, start getting in some crab and crustacean meals. Same with foods, organic P and K is harder than N but can be done! Roots and a few other companies have liquid stuff that doesn't have any salts added. Lengbingite is water soluble and is high in K but is totally a salt....Cant seem to find whats really in Jobes, is just says Nitrogen, and Potassium with out listing the actual ingredients, thats why i tend to buy pure amendments like feather or cottonseed meals and commonly these all purpose granular will be time release. Does your bag have actual ingredients on it?
@Shaded_One has a really good and simple write up on using Gia Green's stuff growing organically and i would recommend that! Dont give up on the OG soils!!! Super simple and easy to get your feet wet!
The soil meter is bull man, you need a PH pen and a PPM pen, digital yo! You check the in and the out or slurry to find your soil PH. That thing doesnt tell you anything accurate. Toss it! Learn to read the plant!

Next time round' amend the crap outta your base mix or get something already ready to rip, and once rooted in push them, feed every third watering and scratch in every 7-10days

Turgor pressure in plants plays a key role in processes such as growth, development, mechanical support, signalling, flowering and stress response. Turgor pressure is an ideal means in plant cells through which the energy content of water molecules (water potential) can be adjusted quickly, within seconds............I.e the perk of your plants, the resistance of their leaves...

 

[ezenzyme]

ammending with gia green or mr b'sgreen trees or even Down to earth all purpose will do fine with a base like sunshine

 

[ezenzyme]

Growing with Gaia Green - Shaded's Method

Hello and welcome to my "Growing with Gaia Green" guide! Figured I would just make a post that can be referenced instead of constantly writing this out in DM's or threads. Gaia Green products are 100% organic dry amendments for cannabis use. They are a Canadian based company but they also...

www.thcfarmer.com

read up on here theres TONS of sick OG growers throwing down killer looking micro grows! Youll get much better weed and spend less in the end

 

[Week4Bytch]

IDK? I never try to water to run off.

oh man..if your doing bottled nutes you need run off bro, no ifs ands or buts..you need run off. Good luck with your grow.

 

[Zen_Seeker]

ammending with gia green or mr b'sgreen trees or even Down to earth all purpose will do fine with a base like sunshine

I’ll see what my stores have and go from there. Even if I stick with liquids on this plant I’ll use the soil nutes on the clones.

I added one litre of water with a bit of epsom this morning. Then I mixed 8L, about 2G, of water with 20ml of FF Grow Big & 2 TBSP Epsom salts. Mixed and sitting for tomorrow’s feeding. PH of mix is about 5.9 but I’ll check again before using.

I expect it will need about 2L but I’m worried about over watering.

 

[Zen_Seeker]

oh man..if your doing bottled nutes you need run off bro, no ifs ands or buts..you need run off. Good luck with your grow.

Hmm... not sure if I have anything big enough to use as a tray. My stores don’t have one that fits my tent. 2 in 1 the 3x3 is tight.

Why do I need run off? To get rid of salt or ppm or both?

 

[RootsRuler]

Hmm... not sure if I have anything big enough to use as a tray. My stores don’t have one that fits my tent. 2 in 1 the 3x3 is tight.

Why do I need run off? To get rid of salt or ppm or both?

Dollar store plastic tubs.

Yes. Run off removes any nutrient salt build up that may occur. 20% of volume is recommended but you can pretty much eyeball it.

 

[Week4Bytch]

Hmm... not sure if I have anything big enough to use as a tray. My stores don’t have one that fits my tent. 2 in 1 the 3x3 is tight.

Why do I need run off? To get rid of salt or ppm or both?

wow, there is a lot to be learned here. Your clearly going through a lock out, bottled nutes are salt based fertilizer. That salt builds up in the soil. When the salt builds up in the soil it causes the water to not want to go up into the plant. Wherever the salt is the most is where the water will gravitate too. Why is that important? The water is what carries the nutrients. No run off equals a major salt mineral imbalance between the soil and the plant. You want your pots above the collection plate/saucer so that the water can drip away from the pot. Your local hydra store should something for you. Run off is very important when growing with bottled nutes. You want at least a 20-30% runoff when watering. and as your media dries..the salt stays.. building up as the water evaporates, so it's building up 24/7 even when your not watering.. you need runoff.

 

[ezenzyme]

Lemme point out that He hasn't used any bottled nutrients up until this point so its pretty doubtful that he is locked because of salt use. I understand that you do drain to waste with coco, and organic salt growers flush at the end but never heard of anyone running organic soils and running a drain to waste system with 20-30% run off with every watering.....His mix doesn't even have coco in it

 

[Week4Bytch]

Lemme point out that He hasn't used any bottled nutrients up until this point so its pretty doubtful that he is locked because of salt use. I understand that you do drain to waste with coco, and organic salt growers flush at the end but never heard of anyone running organic soils and running a drain to waste system with 20-30% run off with every watering.....His mix doesn't even have coco in it

There's some confusion here. There's no such thing as organic salt growers, organic amendments have very very little salts in their mix compared to salt based bottled nutrition. I seriously doubt a salt build up in a true organic grow. This guy is not growing organically. Just because you buy organic nutrients doesn't mean your an organic grower. Growing organically is having some form of knowledge in soil growing and how to keep it healthy. Your not gonna get that mixing it up with salt based bottled nutes. If he hasn't used bottled nutes up to this point, which I doubt, then you are correct with the lockout possibly not an issue, but... his pH range was way off, so he did have a lockout. And the pH tool he's using is very unreliable, he needs a decent pH pen and/or a soil pH pen too. This is the problem with growing plants with bottled nutes and saying your growing organically. Two totally different approaches to growing. Don't try both, just do one. Much easier to do.

 

[ezenzyme]

Did you even read the thread before commenting? No salts, sunshine mix 4 plus jobes and worm, in less than a 5 gal pot for over a month getting tiny amounts of jobes 444 and a lil cal mag, watered every third day. Those are the parameters.
Yeah i mean theres a balance, but i will say that Fox Farms and many other salt based nutes are OMRI certified making them organic in the eyes of the good ol gov. Magnesium sulfate(epsom)and lengbenite are totally salts and used by even the most organic growers. I guess its a matter of what organic means to you....You can pretty easily use both of them, to me its like fish or ammonium nitrate, same same its all the same particle of N that will ultimately be up-taken. Fish is cheaper n per penny tho!!!
Have you seen his meter? I think that all the reads are totally inaccurate, those soil meters are a total joke. Making our assumption of PH imbalance totally inaccurate.

 

[Week4Bytch]

Magnesium sulfate(epsom)

Its not a salt..sorry

Despite its name, Epsom salt is a completely different compound than table salt. It was most likely termed “salt” because of its chemical structure.

Because Epsom “salt” isn’t salt at all; it’s actually magnesium sulphate! If that sounds familiar, it’s because that compound consists of magnesium and sulphur, two essential macronutrients that plants, including cannabis, thrive on.

How Can Epsom Salt Benefit Your Cannabis Plants?

Click here to find out how you can use Epsom salts to benefit your cannabis plants, improve their yields, and help them thrive in soil and hydroponic setups.

www.zamnesia.com