How does one determine if it's to hot of mix or not?
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Okay, thanks.Airpots can 100% become root bound, just because the air kills off a few cm of root tips does not mean the roots cant coil and bind in there.
Read that transplanting clones deep or almost all the way through the Jiffy puck, and then transplanting from pot to pot putting the stem a bit deeper was okay. More bro science I guess.Also just because plants will shoot large greenish looking roots out at the base does not mean you can bury your stem!!!
The lettuce got that about a month after transplanting, fixed now, but the cannabis plant is okay still.Stem rot doesn't smell bad or look like fungi or mold, it is just a squishy spot on the stem starting with mild discoloration yellowing and small squish, and building to brownish and very squishy.
The 3” of soil was removed less than 12h after I added it. Then I flushed the remaining soil. Don’t think it had time to effect the plant yet?It will develop at your ORIGINAL soil line, not at the 3in false soil line, and coincidentally the plants looks pretty damm close to your plant there. They droop and yellow for no reason.....
4-4-4 was also mixed in just as a starter. From there I was hoping to find good, cheaper, nutrient suggestions. But yellow stripes started.So dig, sunshine mix with worm has no ammending beyond some gypsum and lime...sunshine is a base mix intended for mixing with amendments and compost.
Compost was the plan and teas/foliar but as of this morning I added 8L+ water with PH 6+ that had a bit of Pro Cal & Foxfarm Grow Big. I’ll get back to organic next time. I also added 8g+ of Dynomyco mycorrhiza spread in 6 holes about 3”+ deep. Gaia Green Sand was scratched in before the flush.If you not feeding her its not a surprise she's all hungry. By food i mean nutrients, are you feeding liquid, doing scratch ins? this is your first Organic run? You were growing differently before?
I’m beginning to see this.Og gardening is way different than salt gardens. Different learning curve. And this is where we get to discussing pot size for organics! In whatever mix of soil you prefer when running salts or organic liquid nutrients you can keep a plant looking and doing really happy in a tiny vessle, but the second you take away the bottle everything goes hay wire.
I know this but have not had experience or education in growing cannabis this way organically. I didn’t even consider needing a larger pot for the same size plant just because we need the additional nutrient space. In my 3x3 I find I can really only manage 4 plants at a time and 25L pots is manageable. This plant was a left over I used for clones and then decided to practice and experiment on.When your growing in organics soil base does matter because its the loving(living) soil food web that provides your plant with food not the bottle. The more surface area for your microbes to thrive the more nutrients they can celate making them bio available to your plants.
I think 25L is about 7G so 30G is like 115L? Pretty sure I don’t have room for that. I have to move 3 clones into here that are already getting big fast. My mistakes are going to have them sitting longer until I fix this plant.Next run go to a 30g pot, amend the living balls outta it, cook out your super soil or buy a pre amended mix like what BAS offers and blast them with penny saving organic nutes like fish malted barley sprouted seeds and kelp!!! You will be blown away mate!
I know, have a better PH meter coming by mid February. Picked up a good LUX meter that helped with locking down distance and intensity.Heres what i would do;
Ditch the cheezy meter, those things suck and are not accurate.
Uh what??? I check the weight, use my finger and if dry I see how far down with water meter. Try to check PH of soil when I water as soil needs to be really wet to get a reading.Water based upon the plant turgor pressure and perk or by the weight of the pot.
I always water this way. Unless I flush. I read about letting the pot go really dry for 3+ days but I just can’t do it. I worry about over watering, not under. I also try to do it 500ml to 1L at a time. Getting it around where I think the roots are reaching all around the edge of the pot. As it seeps in I go around the sides repeatedly until it looks saturated or I see run off. Not just running out the sides.If the top 3 inches are dry your plant is much too dry, i do second knuckle is emergency watering time it shouldn't get to that point.
Usually every other day unless I was light last watering or environment changed enough to evaporate more. At this size it’s about 1.5L a day or 3L every other day, IIRC, With feeding every other watering.You should probably be watering daily small amounts(possibly twice a day) defiantly not every third day with a large amount.
Not sure what you mean by dish? As I noted above the “mound” doesn’t stay. I just make a small one whenever I check or clean the soil. It’s so light it floats and sinks so I level it out. And yes, when adding anything to the top soil I break it up but not to deep. Not to damage roots. I also poke holes with a sharpy if I need to get something down in there like mycorrhiza.Take that stuff off around the stem and keep the original soil line forever. Make a SMALL mound around the stem to keep water off and dish the rest of the pot. When top dressing you scratch in breaking up the top surface of the dirt.
We since I’ve failed at organic and already started liquid nutes again I was thinking about “The Recipe” if I can copy it cheaply. Running out of extra cash and this is for personal wellness & health.More frequent waterings with less water in each one. and start feeding that baba stat!!!! Like for real every second watering and scratch in every ten days.
IDK? I never try to water to run off. The pot sits on a surface that will let it drain but that goes on the tent floor. A flood table/tray is another tool for later. I don’t think the roots are that bad but I can’t say for sure. I know the water meter does hit resistance but I take readings from the middle ring between the stem and edges so I expect roots to be thicker here.after fully understanding this situation heres my read; This plant has become massively root bound, does that mean theres roots growing out of the pot? No this means that there is such a massive amount of roots and such little soil that the dirt is having trouble up-taking the water. When the roots get so massive like that water has issues penetrating and hydrating, then it causes pockets of hydrophobic soils that reject the water even more!! What you get is plants that look like they are pissed and thirsty, but wont take the water!! Then the tendency is to give them more, causing run off and they look like they are over watered because the water is sitting in there not being taken up.
Ya, I highjacked the thread. But I did give him a link to the LED PDF file with the hight info included.You know whats funny is the OP never came back.. LMFAO Zen seeker, did you ever get the pH down to respectful levels? Where you at with the soi
No worries! I was the dumb a$$ that needed help. Thanks for the hand!If this is all you have, go with the Jobes 4-4-4 (tablespoon per pot) and Worm castings only (cover the pellets with the worm castings), and then water with (1 tablespoon per gallon of water) of epsom salts once a week. Get that waters pH to 6.5-6.8 Good luck man and sorry for taking so long to read that .
I’ll see what my stores have and go from there. Even if I stick with liquids on this plant I’ll use the soil nutes on the clones.ammending with gia green or mr b'sgreen trees or even Down to earth all purpose will do fine with a base like sunshine
Hmm... not sure if I have anything big enough to use as a tray. My stores don’t have one that fits my tent. 2 in 1 the 3x3 is tight.oh man..if your doing bottled nutes you need run off bro, no ifs ands or buts..you need run off. Good luck with your grow.
Dollar store plastic tubs.Hmm... not sure if I have anything big enough to use as a tray. My stores don’t have one that fits my tent. 2 in 1 the 3x3 is tight.
Why do I need run off? To get rid of salt or ppm or both?
wow, there is a lot to be learned here. Your clearly going through a lock out, bottled nutes are salt based fertilizer. That salt builds up in the soil. When the salt builds up in the soil it causes the water to not want to go up into the plant. Wherever the salt is the most is where the water will gravitate too. Why is that important? The water is what carries the nutrients. No run off equals a major salt mineral imbalance between the soil and the plant. You want your pots above the collection plate/saucer so that the water can drip away from the pot. Your local hydra store should something for you. Run off is very important when growing with bottled nutes. You want at least a 20-30% runoff when watering. and as your media dries..the salt stays.. building up as the water evaporates, so it's building up 24/7 even when your not watering.. you need runoff.Hmm... not sure if I have anything big enough to use as a tray. My stores don’t have one that fits my tent. 2 in 1 the 3x3 is tight.
Why do I need run off? To get rid of salt or ppm or both?
There's some confusion here. There's no such thing as organic salt growers, organic amendments have very very little salts in their mix compared to salt based bottled nutrition. I seriously doubt a salt build up in a true organic grow. This guy is not growing organically. Just because you buy organic nutrients doesn't mean your an organic grower. Growing organically is having some form of knowledge in soil growing and how to keep it healthy. Your not gonna get that mixing it up with salt based bottled nutes. If he hasn't used bottled nutes up to this point, which I doubt, then you are correct with the lockout possibly not an issue, but... his pH range was way off, so he did have a lockout. And the pH tool he's using is very unreliable, he needs a decent pH pen and/or a soil pH pen too. This is the problem with growing plants with bottled nutes and saying your growing organically. Two totally different approaches to growing. Don't try both, just do one. Much easier to do.Lemme point out that He hasn't used any bottled nutrients up until this point so its pretty doubtful that he is locked because of salt use. I understand that you do drain to waste with coco, and organic salt growers flush at the end but never heard of anyone running organic soils and running a drain to waste system with 20-30% run off with every watering.....His mix doesn't even have coco in it
Its not a salt..sorryMagnesium sulfate(epsom)