Mag deficiency is plants but i have supplemented with calmag from the start

[cultivator88]

As in the title I have 1 plant that looks like it's got a really bad magnesium deficiency but I have supplemented calmag since the start of the grow and kept the ph at around 6-6.3 the run off also says the same I've re calibrated my ph meter and the ph is the same , it has stunted growth but now it's starting to do the same in my other plants but in the early stages but the growth is ok , the nutrients I've using are GH maxi grow, gt silica and folic and canna calmag I'm in week 4 of grow. The question I have are how did I get a magnesium deficiency when I've supplemented calmag and kept the ph in acceptable levels and should I worry about the others when I'm about to head into flower?

 

[RegularRebel]

What else could be the problem?

 

[Gmix]

Aside from anything else it needs translating before flowering imo it probably needed transplanting last week going by the photos

You’ll want to say if your in coir or soil.

 

[cultivator88]

I'm in coco sorry

 

[Gmix]

Some plants are more hungry than others even if they are the same strain

Coir has no nutritional benefit like soil does

Some folk will soak there coir in cal mg before use

 

[RegularRebel]

I see chlorosis between the veins of the leaves. Is that only happening around the top third of the plant?

 

[cultivator88]

Mostly but there is some on the bottom as well.

 

[RegularRebel]

Start foliar feeding the plant directly. Add 40 mg per liter water aspirin to the foliar feed for 1 treatment, put a teaspoon of mild unscented soap for the foliar spray so it stays longer on the leaf. Misting is better than droplets. Avoid light burn, and spray plants in the morning/lights on where stomata are open....until its nailed down what is the uptake problem, or other problem. Provide all details from the pot upwards that are not yet mentioned. Which bugs are found in the sticky traps? Top down is a big clue, perhaps lock out, one plant just may be more sensitive than the others but they all have the same problem.

 

[Grownsince95]

If you feel this plant is getting much stronger light than the rest that could push the Mg to deficiency. The balance between K/Ca/Mg is very important. Too much of any will block out the others. Excess nitrogen can also block Mg to an extent.

You almost answered your own question by asking how could you have a deficiency if you've been feeding it Mg. The answer is most likely not a deficiency but a blockage/ antagonisms caused by either excessive feed or an imbalance.

What is the ppm of your source water? This is super important when using cal/mag products. You may not have really needed it this whole time. The only time you 100% need it is with RO water. Any tap or well water should be judged on a case by case basis.

Are you measuring runoff? TDS not ph

 

[RegularRebel]

pH testing, is needed just for more detailed knowledge/ assessment. Also something like too high K can cause lockout. Early detected so it's not so bad. pH test kits can also be found at aquarium supply section. Maybe a friend with a fish tank can help you real quick with water test. If it is something overabundant in the growing medium you may need to flush them with water to get the K or other overabundance down somewhat.

 

[Grownsince95]

Your maxi grow already contains 6% calcium. For reference, GH micro has 5% and Canna A has 7%.

When you supplement you can actually double the amount of Ca.

GH calimagic adds another 5%
Botanicare adds 3.5%

This is why the source water is so important.

Also I noticed you mentioned the runoff pH was the same. When the plants are eating properly the pH should be going up slightly. Most important right now is the ppm/EC of the runoff though. You want to make sure you don't have a salt buildup in the root zone.

 

[RegularRebel]

You can stop buying calmag. If you actually need it, make it for a few pennies. https://www.thcfarmer.com/threads/diy-calcium-magnesium-save-money.167646/

 

[cultivator88]

Ok cool , I mainly measure with ec. which my nutrients tank is 2.2 ec atm in ppm 500 it's 1100 , ppm 700 it's 1540 , I haven't tested the ppm/ec in my RO yet as it doesn't have any as I'm worried that overwatering could have been contributing to a lock out. Feeding twice a day 12hrs in between feeds. 1min each feed , my current ph for nutrient tank is 6.5 as well not sure of current RO ph as theres none, temps range from 28-32c as well it's hard to justify leaving a aircon as the electricity where I'm from is really expensive.

 

[cultivator88]

Fungus gnats are what the sticky traps are f

Start foliar feeding the plant directly. Add 40 mg per liter water aspirin to the foliar feed for 1 treatment, put a teaspoon of mild unscented soap for the foliar spray so it stays longer on the leaf. Misting is better than droplets. Avoid light burn, and spray plants in the morning/lights on where stomata are open....until its nailed down what is the uptake problem, or other problem. Provide all details from the pot upwards that are not yet mentioned. Which bugs are found in the sticky traps? Top down is a big clue, perhaps lock out, one plant just may be more sensitive than the others but they all have the same problem.

They are for fungus gnats , bastards are hard to get rid of.

 

[Grownsince95]

Ok cool , I mainly measure with ec. which my nutrients tank is 2.2 ec atm in ppm 500 it's 1100 , ppm 700 it's 1540 , I haven't tested the ppm/ec in my RO yet as it doesn't have any as I'm worried that overwatering could have been contributing to a lock out. Feeding twice a day 12hrs in between feeds. 1min each feed

What's your source water, tap or well? You have to have run off with coco. Especially with hydro halo rings and drain to waste. There is no such thing as overwatering with coco/perlite. You simply must do at least 10% runoff a day non negotiable.

 

[Grownsince95]

Check your runoff ppm. I have a sneaky suspicion it's off the charts. Run it until it comes out what you put in. I know it's a pain in the ass and potentially messy depending on where your drain is but your lockout problem will be solved.

I switched to hydro rings and coco about 5 years ago and I love it but I also learned the hard way! Good luck and keep us posted!

 

[RegularRebel]

Fungus gnats are what the sticky traps are f

They are for fungus gnats , bastards are hard to get rid of.

The larvae from the fungus gnats are eating the soft roots, adding to an uptake problem. If you have a potato, slice some wedges and stick them down in the growing medium into the soil half inch or so. After 24 hours take the potato wedge out. The larvae will be be sticking inside it eating the potato. Good way to pull some of them out of the soil. Foliar feeding will help bypass the roots to deliver some nutrients to the plant. Can also water pots heavily with 5:1 h202 and water solution. Will disinfect the soil, kill the fungus gnat larvae, but also all beneficial bacteria and stuff in the soil. They lay eggs and the larvae are in the top layer of soil. Let that dry out whenever possible. Bottom watering will also be helpful. Mix the soil around on top quarter to half inch so its loose and dries out faster. Fans blowing downward on soil. If you have DE, it works when its dry. Sprinkle some over the top of the soil.

 

[Grownsince95]

The larvae from the fungus gnats are eating the soft roots, adding to an uptake problem. If you have a potato, slice some wedges and stick them down in the growing medium into the soil half inch or so. After 24 hours take the potato wedge out. The larvae will be be sticking inside it eating the potato. Good way to pull some of them out of the soil. Foliar feeding will help bypass the roots to deliver some nutrients to the plant. Can also water pots heavily with 5:1 h202 and water solution. Will disinfect the soil, kill the fungus gnat larvae, but also all beneficial bacteria and stuff in the soil. They lay eggs and the larvae are in the top layer of soil. Let that dry out whenever possible. Bottom watering will also be helpful. Mix the soil around on top quarter to half inch so its loose and dries out faster. Fans blowing downward on soil. If you have DE, it works when its dry. Sprinkle some over the top of the soil.

That's all really good advice for a soil grower. I never heard of the potato trick but that's cool! The op is using hydro rings in a top fed drain to waste coco coir mix. Sticky traps are probably the best option at this point or they would have to change their entire grow.

I found adding a silica supplement really helped my hydro grows to be more pest resistant overall.

 

[RegularRebel]

That's all really good advice for a soil grower. I never heard of the potato trick but that's cool! The op is using hydro rings in a top fed drain to waste coco coir mix. Sticky traps are probably the best option at this point or they would have to change their entire grow.

I found adding a silica supplement really helped my hydro grows to be more pest resistant overall.

I write in a general way for people reading, even people reading this with a similar problem 2 years from now. I dont have eperience with hydrorings but it may be the case there the larvae are from top to bottom wherever moisture creates their sweet area. lot of that can be applied to their situation to help.

Aspirin definitely, foliar feeding definitely, potato chunks will still attract them for manual removal even if it's just set on the top and sides wherever it can make contact with growing medium, but less effective than when buried slightly in soil. H202 solution flush will kill larvae but eggs can potentially survive that so follow up applications will be needed for future generations. Yeah, sticky yellow traps will catch some adults, the ones attracted to color. To trap the others attracted by smell: apple cider vinegar in a glass with a squirt or half tsp of dish soap to break surface tension stirred in. Cover with cling wrap, plastic and poke several holes in it. They are attracted to the vinegar, crawl in the holes, have a hard time getting out, get weak fall into the vinegar and drown. The adults will cause damage to leaves, yellowing and necrosis. Making a nutrient diagnosis more difficult. Lavae eating the soft tips of roots also complicate nutrient diagnosis because it causes general nutrient uptake symptoms making it look like several deficiencies. With hydrorings the pest problem could be much worse, not just at the top of soil, but all through a more airy coco mixture where moisture remains and never dries out to kill them. I have no experience with hydrorings, but fungus gnat larvae could potentially be everywhere in it unlike in soil where they are only found in the top inch or so. I bet a slice of potato would be crawling with them. The root area needs a dry period to start reducing their numbers. While roots arent doing their job, foliar feeding is needed. Aspirin will allow the plant to mount a defense quickly, instead of weeks from now.

 

[RGWD0202]

With the interveinal chlorosis in the newer growth rather than the older growth could be a sulfur deficiency. Do you use any products that contain sulfur?