Magnetic Ballasts - Maintenance (capacitors/igniters)

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ShorelineTex

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I posted this question on a different thread yesterday, but never got a response. I'm sure there's probably a similar thread out there somewhere, but I couldn't find one that wasn't closed.

Should capacitors (and igniters, I guess) be replaced every so often as a part of some kind of routine maintenance on magnetic ballasts? If so, how often? Are there other things that one should do on a regular basis to extend the life and improve the efficiency on these things?

I know digitals really can't be fixed unless you're an electrical engineer or something, but it seems like igniters and capacitors get replaced in ballasts pretty often.

A ballast of any kind is a pretty big investment, and I think it would be useful like to know what needs to be done to maintain these things so they keep working as good as possible for as long as possible.
 
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ShorelineTex

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Ok...did a little research on this on my own, and here are several links worth looking at:

Apparently, above all else, you should keep your ballast cool:



Good tips on ballast cleaning (apparently a leading cause of lamp flickering):
http://www.ehow.com/how_5463802_clean-ballast.html

HID section is like halfway down the page on the next link, but it has EXCELLENT info on bulb end-of-life indications and explains each of the individual components of regular magnetic ballasts in good detail...GREAT RESOURCE:
http://ecmweb.com/mag/electric_art_troubleshooting_arc/

Good info on how to check the actual lamp socket area for things that could lead to problems (see "Heat and Bulbs" section), and how to tell if your ballast is bad, instead of just some other ancillary component (see "The Ballast" section):
http://www.ehow.com/way_5571131_hps-ballast-troubleshooting.html
 
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ShorelineTex

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Damn...reading a bit more through one of the articles. Maybe it's just safer to buy a new one. Could someone post a pictorial howto on how to safely deenergize a ballast fixture, and how to properly connect an HLR fuse holder & fuse? lol :sick0010:


The excerpt that concerns me:

"Make sure you take specific safety precautions when working on an HPS ballast or some MH units, since they use a high-voltage starting circuit (the ignitor) to initiate arc conduction. Disconnect this starter circuit, since its high-voltage starting pulse can damage a multimeter. The voltage on 50W through 400W lamps is at least 2500V, and for the 1000W lamps at least 3000V. Therefore, determine if an ignitor is part of the circuit, and disconnect it before taking an OCV reading. A short-circuit current measurement gives you the highest current the lamp could see. It can also indicate if the ballast/capacitor combination is correct (or if the ballast/capacitor is defective).

To do the SCCM test, deenergize the fixture. Then, use a jumper lead with alligator clips at each end to create a dead short on the secondary side of the ballast; directly at the socket (the ballast acts as a choke and limits the current). One end of the of the jumper clips to the center contact; the other end clips to the screw shell. For maximum safety, use an HLR fuse holder with a 10A GLR fuse in the test wire, because the ballast could have an internal short. Although the fuse could blow, it usually doesn't. But for the few times it might, this precaution could save you from serious injury. While making sure your ammeter is not close to the ballast's magnetic field, since it could distort readings, clip the ammeter around the jumper wire. Next, energize the circuit, and take the reading. If the reading doesn't fall within the specified range, check the ballast input voltage and ballast wiring. If both are correct, the problem is probably a defective/marginal ballast or capacitor or the incorrect ballast/lamp combination."
 
THELORAX802

THELORAX802

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my mag ballast capacitor ran with the previous owner for two damn years...I gotta get it switched out. I took the too off the ballast and the capacitor too was rusted....that cannot be good
 
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